3. Pattern making

Some of my most popular posts are on pattern making.

This topic covers two very different groups of activities.
– getting personal well fitting basic pattern blocks.
– altering basic pattern blocks to make new styles.

Click on these links to get to posts on 3 main topics :
Independent pattern sources

Personal basic pattern blocks

Altering patterns
Wardrobe pattern books, many of which include simple pattern altering instructions.

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(2023) Links in this section are now mostly out-of-date and incomplete.

Links to
Sewing pattern lines for men’s clothes

These are links to posts on mainly North American INDEPENDENT PATTERN designers
2022 – There are now hundreds of US independent pattern designers, so I’ve given up trying to keep track. None of my lists are now anywhere near up-to-date.
There’s a list of European and Australian designers in the right menu.

US indie patterns from UK suppliers
North American independents – update 2011
Independent pattern resources – includes European suppliers of North American patterns.
Independent patterns : new generation

For European and Australia/ New Zealand/ Japan pattern companies, see blog right hand menu, ‘Pattern Links’ section.

These are links to posts on PERSONAL BASIC PATTERN BLOCKS

Pattern making – the formal route
Easier fitting shells
Aids to well fitting blocks

Those 3 posts are combined and revised in my free
e-Book on Personal basic pattern making blocks.pdf (2022 – now rather out-of-date).

Draping
Pattern making software

Favourite books – pattern drafting

Casual/ dartless block
Fitting my own casual block
Fitting my own raglan tee
Balloon skirt

Multi-block patterns

(Index page 2 lists more posts about fit.)

These are links to posts on ALTERING PATTERNS

Possible style elements

Clothing designs and patterns are made from style elements. Here’s a general post on them :
Style elements.
I now have some pinterest boards for style elements :
Jackets / coats
Cardigans
Blouses / shirts
Yokes / smocks
Pants / trousers
Skirts / dresses
Jumpsuits
Those show clearly different styles.

How to change patterns

It’s often quite easy to change one style element for another, such as changing the type of collar or the shape of sleeve, while leaving the rest of a pattern unchanged. So this is a way of making a different style with least effort.
Quite small changes in the proportions of silhouette and added elements can also make a big difference to the look of the final result.

2022 : I have a pair of posts bringing together my past posts on these topics:
Simple hacking instructions.
Small groups of patterns you might use as your starting point in hacking.

Before those, this was my most recent post on this topic, with links to many of these posts :
One pattern many looks.

Favourite books – pattern altering

Simple pattern alterations :
Changing a pattern neckline
From shirt to pullover – close front opening, check neckline
6-gore princess seam skirt

This is the group of 4 posts about pattern making for front openings :
1. zip, button band
1b. adding extras to a front band
2. combined facing to front edge and neckline
2b. adding to a front-neckline facing

There are brief notes on combining style elements from different patterns in my post on copying a
Trendy autumn capsule.

General :
Getting the ease level right

What can you make from one pattern (2009).
Make everything from one pattern (2016), includes notes on changing style by using only part of the pattern, changing lengths, and small changes with big effects.

This expansion of that idea lists patterns, books and classes which help with Simple pattern alterations .

These posts include many examples of design changes :
Casuals
Workwear

These are links to posts on WARDROBE PATTERN BOOKS – which include pattern altering instructions (many more wardrobe pattern books have appeared since these posts were written).

Wardrobe pattern books : casuals
Wardrobe pattern books : dresses
Wardrobe pattern books : other possibilities
‘Dressmaking’ book – classic styles

2017 group on patterns for wardrobes :
Patterns for wardrobe building
Wardrobe patterns
Pattern books for wardrobes

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Links to other pages of the index are at the top of the right hand menu.

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Have you any comments or suggestions ?