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Variations of the relaxed wardrobe

June 23, 2012

Following on from the 12 clothes Janice of The Vivienne Files suggested as a relaxed starter wardrobe, she added a group of 4 accessories. And I need to add some layers as I don’t live in a hot summer climate.

So here are additions to my pattern suggestions in my previous post on this.

Here’s Janice’s starter group of four, as a reminder of the style. (clothes from L.L.Bean)

”vcore4”
image from The Vivienne Files with permission

She has posted another version of these casuals, for the whole summer, here and here.

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Accessories

”vintegrate4”
image from The Vivienne Files with permission

Janice is always good on suggesting accessories. Here she completes the casual red group by adding hat, scarf, and choice of tennis shoes or flip-flops.

Changing the scarf and shoes is an easy way of completely changing the look of an outfit of simple basics.

I usually carry a straw basket, and they would work well with this group. Or a fabric tote/ messenger bag/ backpack. Make them with your scraps 😀

How about new McCall’s 6577 for both hat and tote.

”m6577”

UK Elle July 2012 issue has a big fabric hat in pink and white stripes 😀

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Add a layer – many options

This capsule is very oriented to summer wearing when you only need only one layer, with occasional use of a knit cardigan or shirt-jacket for cool evenings. See my previous post for pattern suggestions.

I don’t live in a hot climate, and need a layer. When you have a layering piece to work with as part of your outfit, I think the layer you choose can make a big difference to the overall style.

Continuing with Cutting Line patterns, for a layering jacket that closes fully there’s Pure and Simple.

”clpuresimple”

If you’d like your capsule to have ‘sports luxe’ style use a hoodie – see my sports luxe post for patterns. Or a stylish new pullover hoodie for wovens, Butterick 5791

”b5791”

For a softer style I might choose a cascade/ drape cardigan. Definitely not a fitted blazer with this wardrobe – these clothes are too relaxed 😀 If you like the notched collar effect, choose an oversized boxy jacket to go over loose fitting tops. So many BMV patterns have appeared since I last wrote on big jackets, I’m planning a separate post on cascade and boxy styles !

For a more unusual look, Eileen Fisher this season frequently uses a poncho as her covering layer, in a gauze, mesh, or a very light knit. Cropped to elbow and waist length.

For a pattern, cut your own rectangle by direct marking on the fabric. Or possibilities in new Butterick 5790.

”b5790”

Or what Eileen Fisher calls a ‘box top’, basically a poncho with side seams. Simply sew up the side edge part way.

”efboxtop”
Eileen Fisher March 2012

Or try Elizabeth Gillett’s ‘jacket’ version, new Vogue 8820 View C.

”v88202”

For outerwear I would of course choose a parka. See my post on parka patterns. Or Sewaholic Patterns’ new Minoru jacket is popular.

”sewaholic-minoru2”

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A vacation/ holiday group

This red relaxed group could make a good holiday-vacation travel wardrobe.

Add an outerwear jacket to carry on the journey, swim suit and pareo, some camisoles or shells (one in a dressy fabric) – none take much packing space.

Plus another layer in flat-packing style which could double as a robe. Such as a kimono (see my post) or caftan. Or another style made from rectangles.

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Widening the style reference for your summer wardrobe

Janice of The Vivienne Files followed her post on building a wardrobe of red relaxed clothes with a related group in black and grey. Those are closely fitted styles, including a blazer, slim pants, leggings, and short tight skirts. More trendy-edgy than many of her recent selections, she calls them ‘less conservative’.

Perhaps she and I use the word ‘conservative’ with different meanings – for me it is a rather negative word ! I don’t think the clothes in the red-based group are ‘conservative’ in the sense of old-fashioned and fuddy-duddy. I think of them as the simplest of relaxed basics.

In fact June 2012 UK Elle has a lead article on ‘sports luxe’ – now called ‘haute casual’ to make it look new – so perhaps we wearers of these relaxed shapes are ahead of the game 😀

Think of the black and red groups as week/ weekend, city/ suburb, or town/ country selections.

Janice has several more posts illustrating her theme of building a wardrobe in groups of 4 :
camel and grey
teal and navy
These are also more trendy and stylish.
The ‘red’ group I’ve focussed on is best for relaxed wear.

These wardrobes all have the same basic ‘Four by Four’ plan : one group of 2 tops 2 bottoms in one main colour, another group of 4 in the second main colour, a third group of 4 tops in mixed colours with added accents, plus 4 accessories.

This is a very simple wardrobe building scheme. My final posts inspired by this wardrobe from The Vivienne Files are planned to be about simple personal wardrobe building.

– – –

Many more variations possible by changing the colours, fabrics, prints, jacket and accessories – for different looks from the same group of simple shapes. (I’m planning a post on this season’s colours, prints, fabrications.)

Which would be your favourite style choices for colours, fabrics, layer and accessories, for adding your personal touch to these casual basics 😀

– – –

Links and patterns available June 2012

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Categories: personal style, specific capsules

Comments: 7 Comments

Variations on a summer capsule

June 9, 2012

I wrote a previous post on patterns for the summer capsule suggested by image consultant Judith Rasband in an e-mail dated 30 April 2012.

”rasbandcapsule”

Wonder of wonders, with a change of jacket and colours this is a capsule I could wear myself. So here are some comments on alternatives :
– A simple variation with a different jacket.
– For a different style, base your 6 item capsule on a wardrobe pattern with added items.
– Different colours.

– – –

Change the style of the capsule by changing the jacket

With a softened jacket this capsule could work well for me. I might choose a cascade or funnel collar in a more drapey fabric. Especially as I’d rarely be wearing a jacket over only one light layer.

It’s surprising how big a difference changing the jacket and accessories can make to the general spirit of the group.

”capsule-w-cascade-3”

Drape cardigan from Jigsaw (sources of other items in previous post).

Without accessories and another strong colour this group could look rather dull and unbalanced. But that’s easily changed, and the whole capsule does look much softer. A scarf would be a quick option for brightening it up.

Though of course you haven’t got to dress bright if that’s not your style ! I’m not comfortable in strong contrasts or accent colours, but I do like the character given by interesting style elements, textures and trims.

Many jacket patterns in cascade or drape style. McCall’s 6444 (left) and McCall’s 6084 (right) are possibilities.

”m6444m6084”

So make 2 jackets and 2 groups of accessories and get an even wider range of style options 😀

For related style inspiration, look at this season’s style summary pdf from Eileen Fisher.

As with Judith Rasband’s capsule, you probably won’t get 100% successful layering combinations. But still a good range of choices. In winter I would want to wear all these layers at the same time. In summer you get 3-4 different 1-layer looks from Rasband’s group (with each bottom), plus options from layering the blazer or big shirt over the other tops.

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A different starting point for 6 items

If you’d prefer a bigger style change : add a big shirt or a cascade/drape jacket to a wardrobe pattern with 5 items. These are what Nancy Nix-Rice suggests when adding “extras” to her core wardrobe of classics.

Here’s a post from The Vivienne Files about using a shirt to make many different outfits.

In another message (10 May 2012), Judith Rasband suggests a 2-piece dress which looks like a shirt-dress. Make your favourite shirt pattern, and a simple gathered or pleated skirt – easy to move in. Both in the same fabric. Add a belt to disguise the waistband.

Or choose your own group of 6 items, perhaps with guidance from ejvc’s ‘free choice’ summer 6PAC at Stitchers Guild.

– – –

Your own colours

Rasband chose classic colours for these enduring styles.

These colours are not best for me. So generalise :
light neutral : top (white)
dark neutral : top, pants, skirt, accessories (navy, navy-white stripe)
accent colour : jacket, accessories (rust)
bright accent colour : top (yellow)

Or use the colour allocations suggested by ejvc for her summer 6PAC at Stitchers Guild. Make slimming columns of colours at the same level of intensity.

Or perhaps you like to start the other way round : make the basics in accent colour and add a few neutrals, as suggested in this post by The Vivienne Files.

Or of course if you love colour you can make everything different and use no neutrals at all, as in many current outfits 😀

At first I added a section here on this season’s colours, prints, fabrications, but that’s really a separate topic, so is another post.

Which are your most flattering neutrals and favourite accents ?

– – –

Add a scarf

It’s easiest to test if colour options work for you by trying a scarf.

Long thin scarves which can be wound around loosely in many different ways are not too warming for a mild season. An accessory not a necessity, and very current.
Wearable with most tops and layers. People round here use them to add accents and individuality to all their neutrals.

Make it yourself – though at 2 to 2-1/2 yards/ metres long they’re fabric extravagant. Cut a 15-18 inch/ 40-45 cm strip for the scarf. Or the right width to crush down to 3-4 inches/ 10 cm of effect if it’s a springy fabric. Practice your rolled hemming, and use the rest of the fabric for a top !

– – –

So many possibilities. And why be limited to just one of each item 😀

Most capsules are easy to extend by adding camisoles, tees, jeans. A classic knit twin set. A long ‘boyfriend’ knit cardigan. A short skirt and tights/ leggings. A sheath dress. . . Wear only these and you’ll look ‘modern classic’. Pick one or two and they’ll fit in with many styles.

On the other hand, those are all popular choices because they have few style elements so are easy to co-ordinate. If you like the clothes in Rasband’s group because they have more interesting style elements, perhaps it’s easer to organise your no-need-to-think wardrobe in terms of outfits. Instead of trying to pick a small group of items which all work as no-fail co-ordinates. Some wardrobe advisers suggest you take photos of your outfit combinations, so you don’t have to remember what works with what. Or make a written list – personally I find pictures easier.

Which are your favourite choices for summer 😀

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Links and patterns available June 2012

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Categories: specific capsules

Comments: Be the first to comment

Wardrobe of relaxed basics

June 2, 2012

It’s the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee long holiday weekend.

I haven’t got an ideal post for celebrating it – I don’t really write about copying the Queen’s style 😀 Not many patterns for a sheath dress with matching coat. (Saturday she wore her usual coat with pleated ruffle round neck and front edge, attractive and current.) This can be a more interesting look than a suit, especially for a petite. So perhaps start from New Look 6163. Leave off the band collar for a more classic effect.

”nl6163”

And she always shines in her ‘Spring’ Colours. Good Luck to her anyway.

I could just go on as usual, and post more comments on Judith Rasband’s summer capsule. Or write about my current obsession – getting basic blocks to fit – which I plan to spend the weekend doing. I’ve chosen instead to post the first of some pieces on relaxed clothes – suitable for a switch-off and laze weekend.

– – –

This post is inspired by The Vivienne Files. Usually I enjoy looking at the ideas there but would never copy them for myself. All those close fitting tees, leggings, short skirts and sheath dresses – not my style at all.

But she (Janice) recently suggested a some loose casuals which I could happily wear. All clothes from L. L. Bean.

In fact I got so inspired by this it has turned into 4 pieces – this on patterns for her basic wardrobe, another on accessories and layers, yet more on big jackets for wearing over loose casual tops, and some comments on simple wardrobe plans.

– – –

Janice talks about building a wardrobe in groups of 4 items, and starts with 2 tops, 2 bottoms. Sleeveless and sleeved tops, gathered waist skirt and capris.

”vcore4”
image from The Vivienne Files with permission

Everything in the same accent colour. An interesting idea if you like strong colour in summer. But not essential! Don’t let the colour put you off considering this approach to wardrobe building 😀 Personally I prefer variants around a colour rather than everything exactly the same, and I rarely wear accents.

A bit like Kate Mathews’ ideas for a 6-yard wardrobe, in her oop book ‘Sewing a Travel Wardrobe‘. She uses a jacket, dress, skirt and pants all made in the same fabric, as the core of a travel wardrobe.

Or follow the trendy colour blocking idea, and make each garment in a different strong colour – red, green, aqua, blue, orange, yellow, chartreuse, purple.

True basics, with minimum style elements – co-ordinate easily with almost any other relaxed loose fit styles. Easy to reproduce using Cutting Line Designs.

Cutting Line shell – Pure & Simple

”lcpuresimpleshell”

Cutting Line sleeved top – 2 x 4

”lc2x4”

Looking closely at the photo in the red group, this might be a boat neck raglan top, like a classic sweat shirt. See my post on patterns for sweatshirts and relaxed tees.

Cutting Line skirt – In the Trenches

”lctrenchesskt”

Cutting Line pants – One Seam – at cropped length

”lc-one-seam-pants”

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Janice then adds 4 to the initial group, 2 more tops, 2 more bottoms. Tee, knit cardigan for layering, shorts and pants.

For colour this time she uses a simple medium-light or medium neutral.

”vexpand4”
image from The Vivienne Files with permission

For the top, use your favourite tee pattern.

If you’re looking for a starter tee pattern, find one with the right level of ease for you. Do you prefer loose fitting knits ? knits which are the same size as your body ? knits with negative ease, that stretch over and emphasise your shape ? Skin fit knits are ‘modern classic’ but may not be your style. Carefully check illustrations of the effect. Best to measure a knit pattern before cutting out, so you don’t get too-big/ too-small surprises.

I’m learning the importance of this from a tee pattern I’m currently trying. This pattern has negative ease over the hips (oh dear, not an area I need fabric stretched over), sleeves so tight I couldn’t bend my average size arms, and a neckline too small for my large head to get through. (Sewing Workshop Trio Tee – use very stretchy fabric.) As always, a huge pay-off for me from making a muslin. (And a huge pay-off from all my previous fitting struggles – I’m merrily slashing around and altering my muslin without concern 😀 )

Plus Janice’s second group includes a classic button up cardigan in a textured knit, perhaps chosen from Butterick 5760.

”b5760-2”

Pants with waistband, fly, slant pockets – shorts and full length.
Palmer-Pletsch have a pattern for chinos, McCall’s 6361.

”m6361”

– – –

Finally Janice adds 4 more tops – a variety of ‘casual classics’.

Using fabrics which bring together the colours. Here she adds white (use your lightest neutral).
And added interest with multicolour weaves :
– accent-light neutral stripes
– accent-medium neutral-light neutral plaid.

”vmileage4”
image from The Vivienne Files with permission

Make a big change to the style of the wardrobe by using prints instead of straight line weaves.
This season’s print possibilities : underwater aquas, paisley, Afro, pretty florals, or techno prints that could only come from a computer.
Or introduce a current fabrication : sheer, satin, metallic.
Prints for jackets and pants as well as tops this season.

For garment patterns, repeat your favourite shell and tee.

‘Polo’ shirt with set-in placket in a knit. A couple of patterns :
Jalie 2562

”jalie2562polo”

Silhouette Patterns 225 Sarah’s Top has B, C, D cup sizes.

”sil-22-sarahs-top”

Well, only if you like polo tops of course. For some reason I feel ‘no never’ about them – too many associations with high-school sports perhaps 😀 Though I do like a lowest layer with a collar. So I would replace the ‘polo’ top with a collared blouse in a woven.

Big shirt which can be worn alone or layered – many possible patterns, even a men’s shirt.
There’s the shirt in Butterick 5760 mentioned before. Or a new big shirt from them, Butterick 5773.

Or, staying with Cutting Line patterns, use The Blouse Perfected.

”lc-blouse-perfected”

Louise Cutting also has a ‘big shirt’ pattern coming out this summer.

I like the big shirts from Rag Merchant, which have softer corners and some added ‘crafter’ design interest. Here’s their Back Country Shirt.

”back-country-shirt”

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Use quality fabrics : linen, sheers, satin, light textured knits or stretch lace, pretty or striking prints. Fabrics for work, relaxation, special occasions. Add your favourite embellishments. Wear these relaxed shapes without looking like you’re on a camping trip 😀

Janice is always good on accessories. But this post has got very long, so I’m putting them in a later post.

And relate your choices to your own tastes and needs. Even in summer here I usually need an added layer. It’s the ‘essential fifth’ for me – the initial core 4 plus layer. So I’ll suggest a range of jackets for a different look to these relaxed basics.

Or perhaps you only wear dresses and can ignore all this. (Here’s the start of a series from The Vivienne Files on how to accessorise a basic dress.)

Or perhaps like the Queen you prefer tweeds and a Barbour when not on show.

Are these clothes in your style – a quick make for an easy-wear collection ? or too casual and shapeless for you to be happy in 😀

– – –

Links and patterns available June 2012

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Categories: specific capsules, wardrobe planning

Comments: 13 Comments

April issue Vogue patterns – separates

May 26, 2012

Here’s the second part of my comments on the new April pattern issues from Vogue. Separates and bags – now some of these are styles I might wear myself 😀

The first of these posts on the April patterns was on dresses.

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Flounces and drapes

Vogue 8816 has many drape neck empire waist options.

”v8816”

A flouncy jumpsuit from DKNY – Vogue 1308, an option for conversion to a top ?

”v1308”

Flounces or peplum knits, take your choice, from Rebecca Taylor – Vogue 1306.

”v1306”

– – –

More tops with extra room below the waist

Vogue 8817 – seaming and embellishing interest on a knit top from Katherine Tilton.

”v8817”

Vogue 8815 – a peplum top, how useful.

”v8815”

Vogue 8821 – straight front and swirling back, a rare pattern that can be seen better in a photo than a diagram.

”v8821”

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Some interesting layers

Vogue 8804. A new ‘Chanel’ style jacket pattern with couture instructions from Claire Shaeffer is sure to generate interest.

”v8804”

Very Easy Vogue 8819 – an interesting cut, effective in stripes. Looks like a shape that may be good on larger hips. Make it in a stable knit, to support those bias cut sections.

”v8819”

Vogue 8820 – light summer/ evening shrugs from Elizabeth Gillett.
Have you got a standard Little Black Dress that you wish was more interesting ? One of these cover-ups could be just the thing.

”v8820”