The glam-posh fashion Parka
UK Elle magazine August Runway Edit and Style.com/ US Vogue both pick out the parka as a key item for the winter 2011 season. A good example of ‘street’ influencing ‘runway’ style.
The iconic parka is from Altuzarra.
If that’s a bit much for you, there are many high hip and hip length casual jackets with big fur collars. This one also from Altuzarra.
Last year I had difficulty finding a parka pattern, but there are a whole lot tucked away in corners of the pattern world.
For the most basic style, the pattern is quite simple :
Basic block : the casual-dartless block (see previous post). Enlarge to outerwear size. Thigh length.
Added style elements : front zip or buttons/snaps; hood or deep collar; big patch pockets; casings at waist, hem, wrist, collar/hood.
As usual it’s surprising how many different versions designers can come up with. By varying the style elements and adding seam detail or gathered sections.
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Paper patterns in English
The closest to style is Hot Patterns 1030 Weekender Shine-On-You-Crazy Parka.
Add square cargo/ poachers pockets if you prefer.
Or for a less gathered version with detachable hood : styleARC’s Safari Jane jacket.
(Shams has a blog entry on making this jacket in beautiful fabrics :D)
If you like raglan sleeves, there’s Vogue 1097 by Sandra Betzina.
If you prefer : Make thigh length. Omit in-seam pockets and add patch pockets. Add waist/ hem/ cuff casings.
You may like to add a hood to Simplicity 2153, and lengthen to thigh or knee level.
Or if you prefer something a little different, there’s Marcy Tilton’s new pattern, Vogue 8752.
MacPhee Workshop has several parka patterns. The pictures are too tiny to be worth reproducing, try styles 289 and 450.
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Paper patterns in other languages
Au Bonheur des Petites Mains Imperméable long (French) (P.S. this company is now closed.)
Stof & Stil 24006 (Danish, ship only to Scandinavia and Germany).
Burda are marvellous for parkas, many in their pattern magazine. But for some reason none in their main paper pattern line. Here are a couple from their Fashion Line.
Burda 501D (left), in German, or in French.
Burda 506E (right) in German, or in French.
You can also download patterns for these in German direct from BurdaStyle.de : Burda 501D, or Burda 506E.
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Download patterns in English
The rest of the parka patterns I’m mentioning are all downloads from Burda.
US BurdaStyle has Style 101, with hood and back waist casing.
Another two available through SewingPatterns.com
Go to Downloads > Burda downloads > Coats
for Burda 7711 (left) and . . . . . . . . . . Burda 7750 (right)
Beware that Click2Sew patterns aren’t pdfs. The software is for Windows.
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Wear your parka with a dress to be high style (see the first photo). If you prefer, wear easy fit or skinny pants, and comfortable brogues or loafers. Flat shoes are fashionable, hurrah !
And a felt hat – fedora or trilby.
Sadly, I don’t look good in a felt hat 😀
Which one do you like best ? What do you look at first ? Does the styling draw the eye up to your face ? With many of them, my eyes go straight to the hips – oh dear 😀 Now imagine them without the pockets. . . On the runway styles, it’s the big hood/ collar with fur trim that draws attention away from the pockets. Could you add a fake fur collar, hood strip, or hood lining ?
Obviously a parka fits in easily with a casual personal style. But if you look, some of them are crisper and some softer. If you’re a pure Classic, think of this as a classic casual style. Avoid any sewn gathers, and wear it with tailored trousers and a crisp shirt.
And how about flattering your body shape ? Much though I love big pockets, I know they aren’t good emblazoned on my big hips. But several of the pattern shapes are larger below waist than above, so wouldn’t look strained on me. Which would work for you ?
Look forward to being relaxed and practical and high fashion in the coming winter 😀
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Patterns and links available July 2011
Photos from Style.com
July 30, 2011 at 10:42 am
I grew up when parka meant orange, shiny, shapeless so I immediately sighed over this trend, but you have turned me! Burda 506E is really looking feminine and shaped. These are all so stylish-This term no longer means industrial and unlovable to me. Thanks for all the great suggestions!
July 30, 2011 at 1:30 pm
As you noted, I have made the Style Arc Safari Jane and the Au Bonheurs (http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2010/01/au-bonheur-des-petites-mains-raincoat.html), but I don’t feel done yet. I also like Burda 506E. I also have an old Burda magazine that has one that I like. So we’ll see. 😀
July 31, 2011 at 9:07 am
Marvellous review of the Au Bonheur pattern Shams. Thanks !
July 31, 2011 at 9:02 am
Yes, Burda 506E is the one I have my eye on too 😀
August 4, 2011 at 6:17 pm
I love it – this look is how I spent the early 90’s!
August 6, 2011 at 2:59 pm
Yes, I have some more posts planned for those of us who love looser shapes 😀 Hopefully in September when I get fully back in action. Meanwhile take a look at the new Vogue jacket patterns.
February 13, 2012 at 2:37 am
Just found your blog-love the idea of putting up only line diagrams-and getting rid of any fabric/ styling bias.
BTW Any idea where the petite mains patterns guys are? I liked the examples you’d posted and tried searching for them but couldn’t come up with a direct website. The links on various forums seem to be dead. Have they closed shop or are they expected back at some point?
February 13, 2012 at 8:42 am
Thanks for your comment. Sad to say, as far as I know the Au Bonheur people have gone out of business, as their patterns were very interesting. (one of the reasons why I always put dates on my posts !).