Personal Style questions

Posted September 6, 2009 by sewingplums
Categories: personal style

The words used to describe personal styles change over the years (classic, romantic, casual, dramatic, vintage. . . cool, boho, cottage core, urban, normcore, edgy, retro, hip-hop . . . ) but some basic aspects of personal style stay constant.
It’s good to have a couple of key words for a style, as an easy way to keep it in mind.
But actually personal styles can vary in a huge number of details.

There are 2 main approaches to making style decisions :
Follow what makes you feel and look good : “Do you prefer wearing skirts or pants ?”
Follow an expert : “You’re a Natural so you prefer wearing pants”.

Following an expert can be very helpful when you start being interested personal style and don’t know what the options are.
Ultimately it’s more important to follow your own feelings and needs.

After much reading about wardrobe planning, I have a list of style questions I find helpful.

Answer these questions with what you would like to wear in an ideal world – don’t pick what is fashionable, or what you have to wear for your work, climate, budget. . .
I’ve given lists of items to choose between, but they don’t cover all the possibilities – feel free to add your own likes. And ignore questions about elements you have no strong feelings/ opinions about.

If you’re new to personal style issues, you may find this long list rather overwhelming ! If so, just consider one or a small group of questions at a time.

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Which types of garment do you prefer wearing ?
– are you a pants or a skirt person ?
– if you prefer skirts, are you a dresses or a separates person ? slim or swirling ?
– if it’s pants – do you prefer jeans, skinnies, leggings, chinos, pants/trousers. . . ?
– – tight or baggy crotch ?
– which types of top do you like most ? shirts, blouses, tees, tunics ?
– which types of layering top do you most like to wear ? blazer, ‘kimono’, sweater, cardigan, tunic, vest, shawl, big shirt, sleeveless jumper-style dress?

There are many pinterest boards here showing different styles of dresses, jackets, skirts, pants, collars, pockets, etc. for you to choose your favourites from.

– do you prefer more professional looking, or more dirt tolerant, clothes ?
– do you like to go to ’dressy/ formal’ occasions ?
– do you like to show skin or cleavage, or are you naturally a ‘modest’ dresser ?
– does the climate/ environment/ culture you live in, or the hobbies you enjoy, affect whether you need warm or protective layers ? longer or shorter pants, skirts or sleeves ? special accessories ?

– what is your basic body silhouette ? rectangle, round, triangle, inverted triangle, hourglass, a combination ?
– if you’re bigger above the waist, have you got wide or large shoulders, or a generous cup size, or both ?
– do you prefer to wear clothes that are skin tight (negative ease – your clothes have to stretch for you to get into them)/ close fitting/ average fitting (about 2-4″/5-10cm. ease)/ loose fitting/ very loose fitting (over 10″/25cm. ease) ? (Ease is the difference between body measurements and garment measurements.)

– what shapes and lengths of tops, tunics, jackets, skirts, pants, are most flattering for you ? (essential to check the view from the back too ! and just get a general idea – the best lengths in detail often depend on particular shapes and combinations of garments and shoes.)
– what shapes and lengths do you feel most comfortable in, or feel most like yourself when you wear them ?
– do you like to wear a collar or raised neckline, or do you avoid them ?
– which armhole shape do you prefer – fitted, dropped shoulder, cut-on ?
– do you prefer simple sleeves, or ones that get attention ?
– do you look good wearing a belt ? at waist level ? at high hip level ?
– do you look best with tops tucked in or out ?

– what is your face shape ? what is the most flattering hair style for you ? what hairstyle makes you feel most true to yourself ?
which hair styles need the level of care you are happy with ? which do you feel comfortable wearing ?
– what is the most flattering shape and depth of neckline for you ? also the best collars ? (Cut out shapes in kitchen towel paper and try them on – that’s good to use as it sticks to most clothes.)
– what are your best features, that you want your clothes and accessories to draw attention to ? face, legs, waist, shoulders, bosom, butt, hands, eyes, skin, feet, hair. . .?

– are you happier in knits or in woven fabrics ?
– do you like plain fabrics, or hand dyeds, prints, plaids, stripes, textures or patterned weaves, velvet or corduroy, shiny, embellished ?
– stiffer materials like leather or denim, or softer more drapey ones?
– if you like prints, are they floral, geometric, animal, hard edged, fuzzy. . .
– lots of big contrasts, or only subtle differences ?
– do you like added beads, or braids, piping, cord, studs and eyelets, ornamental zips, fringe, tassels, lace, embroidery, topstitching, fabric textures such as tucks, gathers, flounces, smocking, 3-D flowers, applique, patchwork, quilting. . .

– what are the darker and lighter neutral colours that are most flattering for you ? (that make you look good even without make up or hair colouring ?)
– what is your favourite and most flattering ‘accent’ colour ?
– do you look best in light or dark colours ? clear or muted-greyed shades ? colours with a yellowish (warm) or with a blueish (cool) underlying tinge ? high contrast or minimal contrast ?
– do you look your best when wearing white ? in black ? in denim blue ? in none of these ?

– are you happiest in fitted or loose clothes ? structured/tailored, or floaty ? simple or detailed ?
– is the weight of clothes important for you ? do you feel more comfortable in light weight clothes ? in heavy weight clothes ?
– what about the weight of accessories ? the weight of bags? shoes? necklaces?
– do you like or dislike wearing high heels? flats? low necklines? high necklines? ankle length skirts? thigh length skirts?

– what is your favourite accessory ? bags, backpacks, belts, necklaces, brooches/ pins, bracelets, earrings, rings, scarves, hats, gloves, shoes, boots, sunglasses ? none ?
– what are your favourite styles for jewellery and accessories : quiet or bling ? large or small ? best materials ? simple or detailed ? modern or antique ? angular or curved ? a mixture ?
– what is your favourite style of bag ?
– what is your favourite size of bag (purse) ?
– what are your favourite materials for your bag ? fabric, leather, straw ?
– what heel height is most flattering to your legs when wearing a skirt ?
– what is your favourite style of shoes ?

– what is the clothing style that you feel most yourself in ? quiet or striking ? casual or tailored ? pretty or hard-edged ? dry-clean or mini-care ? crafter or modernist ? minimalist or bling ? modest or exposed ? classic, quirky, romantic, high fashion, sporty, artistic, elegant, cool, edgy, urban, vintage, boho, sexy, something else, a combination ?
– have you got a ‘signature’ ? is there a colour, or a type of print or fabric, or a type or shape of garment, or a type of accessory or trim, a style element, or something else, that you alway wear or would like to wear ?

– and apply (most of !) these questions to undies and nightwear too.
– what bra and panties styles and sizes can you wear without getting underwear lines ?

– remember a time when you felt at your happiest and best. Would the clothes you are thinking of making or buying help you to feel like this ?

– do you need to adapt your clothes a little away from your personal preferences, to suit the climate or lifestyle where you live or work ? if so, what is the most important feature for you to maintain, so you feel you keep your own style ? (Our local smartly uniformed junior supermarket manager goes home in black leather and chains. He gets to keep his beard and pony tail during the day.)

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Obviously ‘personal style’ cannot be summarised in one word !

Your personal style may well be different from mine, so notice especially when you disagree with these questions, or think there is something important left out !

These sorts of questions don’t point to specific best designs, but for me they do greatly cut down on the mass of alternatives.

Once you start thinking in this way, you may find many other style specifics are important to you.

P.S. I copied this list and changed ‘my’ choices to bold format, so I can just quickly read through the bold words to get a written overview of my style.

P.S.S. Looking at this 3 years later – I’ve realised the clothes patterns I choose have most interest and variety around the neck area, with very little variation in sleeves. So I would add some questions here about which style elements you like to vary. See my post on Where do you like your outfit variety ?

P.S.S.S. 2021. April Grow’s Perfectly Put Together course (not free) goes through many of these options with detailed examples. She has an ‘edgy classic’ style in Winter colours, so the specific examples won’t work well for many people. But as an illustration of general principles about where you prefer to be among the huge variety of style options, and that your preferences may depend on details, this is good.

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First published September 2009

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“The Lucky shopping manual” – advice for the pear shaped

Posted August 27, 2009 by sewingplums
Categories: body shape

An attractive and interesting book, but sadly the advice about what’s best for the pear shaped or small busted is the opposite of what works for me.

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Note : Butterick-McCall’s-Vogue has changed their websites. My BMV links now only get you to a page where you can search for a pattern number.
I apologise that I haven’t changed to the new individual URLs, but it would be a lot of work.

– – –

In the section on Jackets , they suggest a classic blazer for the pear shaped. Oh dear. Have they never noticed how ridiculous someone looks when the top of their jacket is too large and floppy with nothing inside to fill it, while the hip area is bursting and straining at the buttons. Not an attractive look.

ReadyToWear jackets are not made with enough fabric in the seam allowances at the hip level. So it isn’t possible to let them out to increase the hip area by 2 or 3 sizes.

Here’s where we sewers who can make our own clothes have such strengths and advantages. Though a fitted lined jacket is definitely not a beginners’ project. It’s wondrous the way a well fitted garment makes someone look as if they have no figure flaws.

Here are some of the alternatives to blazers that I like :

Fitted above the waist and fuller below the waist, such as McCalls 5594, McCalls 5766, or McCalls 5936 :

”peplum”

or simply released pleats without a waist seam, such as Butterick 5393, or Vogue 8600 :

”releasedpleat”

or a flared or tucked style that doesn’t fit to the waist, such as McCalls 5638, or McCalls 5762 :

”nowaist”

(The smock-like version would need to be longer and without the strong horizontal trim line to look good on me.)

Notice most of these examples have large collars – a good way of drawing attention up to the face, and giving more visual ‘weight’ to the upper body.

And for Tops to enhance a small bust, the Lucky book suggests a stretchy top with gathering at the bust. Well, what could emphasise the smallness of my bust more than wearing a stretched fabric, making it obvious there isn’t anything there to stretch it. Definitely best not.

In her Spring/ Summer Newsletter 2009, Pati Palmer talks about ‘essence of waistline’. My personal preference for disguising my small bust is to use woven fabrics for tops, with darts to give ‘essence of bosom’.

Jeans and pants : To minimise your butt, this book suggests large centred pockets on jeans. Goodness, perhaps people with large butts emblazoned with large centred pockets never appear in New York City, or these authors might change their minds.

The best advice I’ve seen on back pockets for large backs was, I think, in Burda WOF magazine. Oddly enough, it suggested what the Lucky manual says for pants : use high welt pockets just under the yoke. (Sorry I can’t find the drawing.). Not classic jeans style, but at least it doesn’t put a large square on a large round, and so draw attention to a large blodge. Well, a large square is better than a small one 😀

For front pockets, they suggest curved pockets for pear shapes. Perhaps these work well for people with a silhouette which tapers out gradually from waist to widest part. But below my indented waist and high hips, this sort of curved pocket just points outwards, saying ‘look here’. I prefer slanted pockets.

Here are the alternatives, McCalls 5394, and McCalls 5239 :

”pocketslucky”

Sorry these images aren’t perfectly size matched. But I think they show how you can use curved horizontal pockets if you want more curves, and straight slanted pockets if you want less 😀

I do agree that in-side-seam pockets are not good in a fitted garment over curvy hips. Particularly with my high hips, it’s almost impossible to make them lie flat without gaping. Sad, as this is the easiest type of pocket to make.

Dresses : There I was, thinking how lucky I was to be a teenager in the 50s (though only because of this feature of the clothes), when the dresses had tiny tops which emphasised my neatness above the waist, and voluminous skirts which disguised where my hips were. But these Lucky editors strongly tell everyone not to wear them. Perhaps that’s true if you’re a size 0 rectangle shape. But I think 50s style dresses are a good idea if you’re a 14 on top and 18 below (sewing pattern sizes) and want to look size 14 overall. Though I admit you do look better with a trim waist (achieved by most people in the 50s by wearing the obligatory corset).

Here are a couple of examples, Butterick 5350, and Butterick 5320 :

”luckydress”

I’m sure I have a lot more to learn about the best styling for my shape, but these are what I’ve found flattering so far from personal experience.

This Lucky book includes much that is useful and food for thought. It gives good advice on looking trendy and stylish. There are some things that work immediately for me, plus inspiration for a lot of thought about how to take the essence of their styling suggestions and adapt them from ‘wouldn’t be seen dead in’ to ‘looking good’. But I don’t think the authors have ever actually looked at someone pear-shaped.

Patterns available August 09.

The Dreaded Black Blazer

Posted August 12, 2009 by sewingplums
Categories: my choices, wardrobe planning

This wardrobe plan scores the highest number of suggested things I would never wear. Fascinating. I first read this plan a year ago and it’s still seared into my memory.

The plan is on the Wardrobe Oxygen site

1. black tailored pant suit in seasonless fabric
2. black seasonless trousers

If anyone tells me to wear black or a tailored blazer, I run screaming to the hills. I look very ill and really ugly in black, did even when young. When I was a very successful professional I didn’t wear tailored or structured clothes or a notched lapel jacket. I don’t feel comfortable or myself when I put them on.

3. jeans
4. dressy jeans

Well, I love practical denim and try to find it in other colours, but indigo blue is not flattering on me.

5. black heeled boots
6. black leather pumps

High heels – thank goodness we don’t have to wear them anymore (though I’ve got a fabulous pair of navy boots I’ve never been able to part with). Pumps I do wear on formal occasions. But black ones would be very unflattering to my leg skin tone.

7. not so little black dress
I’ve never owned anything at all like a ‘little black dress’ – wow, how have I managed to get through life without going to a cocktail party. Let’s see, I look terrible in black, sheath dresses are unflattering on me and a hassle to fit, strappy dresses slide straight off my sloping shoulders. . .

8. silver hoop earrings
My skin has yellow tones so silver is not good on me. I’ve got a long neck so could wear long earrings, but I’m old enough now for my crepey neck to be a feature it’s best not to draw attention to.

9. black or grey merino V-neck sweater
12. slim v-neck sweater in signature colour

V-necks – ah well, I have a long neck and long head, so if I wear a v-neck I look like a giraffe. That is also true of a jewel neckline. Wider slightly curved necks are good on me. V-necks can look discordant on people with rounded or square jawlines.
I actually have got some non-V-neck merino sweaters in my signature colour.

10. trendy skirt
11. trendy jacket/ blazer

I do like ‘trendy jackets’ – something a bit unusual as I don’t feel or look good in the classic shapes, but no sort of jacket fits well into my current lifestyle.
And a trendy skirt ? well my knees have always been ugly (family heirloom) and my ankles now aren’t much better, so short skirts have never been good on me.

13. signature accessory
Hurrah – I’m a handbag freak. Beware having a closet full of them 😀

14. sparkly evening shell or top
Ah well, I’m not really a shiny sparkly sequin sort of person. Lace and embroidery are my favourite embellishments.

15. the perfect tee – or two
Oh dear, tees. I have a small bust cup, and it’s best not to wear anything tight. I prefer to keep that fact about myself a bit disguised !

16. well fitting winter wool coat
Again, classic tailored shapes are not good on me. I have some cosy stylish padded jackets.

17. great fitting bras
Yes indeed – several thousand percent of agreement with this, even though I’ve got too small a bust to wear a bra often myself.

18. panty line free underwear
Absolutely, there should be a law about this, and about bra lines too.

19. a pashmina or wrap
I used to have fun wearing a poncho, but generally find the shape of a shawl is inconvenient and uncomfortable.

20. clutch purse
Very fashionable at the moment, but what a hassle to have to remember all the time to keep hold of it.

21. daily purse
Of course, except mine is a basket and I don’t think that is what she has in mind !

22. sexy shoes that can be worn for at least five hours
See heels above. I’ve never owned a ‘sexy’ pair of shoes, not my style. But yes, every pair of shoes I own must get through a day of being walked in without harming my feet in any way.

23. sunglasses
Yes indeed, but do take great care in choosing them. Never buy without a mirror to see yourself. A pair that complements your face shape is much more important than fashion. I have a large head and look silly in the currently fashionable small lenses.

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Of course there are many people who will love this list, find it very helpful, and want everything on it. But it doesn’t match everyone’s best colours, body shape, lifestyle, or personal style. Me, I just get to wear undies with my sunglasses and purse 😀

My own wardrobe staple is a white shirt. I’ve got embarrassing numbers of them. But they get no mention on this list. I know there are people who look as bad in white as I do in black, and people who are unhappy in a shirt. How dull life would be if everyone wore a white shirt and a black suit 😀

Personal Croquis

Posted August 6, 2009 by sewingplums
Categories: body shape, fit of clothes

To make good pattern choices, it’s useful to have a drawing of our own body shape.

Fashion designers often sketch their styles over a drawing of the human body which is called a croquis. You can even get pre-printed pads of them – though those are for ideal model bodies. (‘Croquis’ is a french word pronounced ‘crow-kee’.)

As Imogen Lamport points out in her Body Shape Bible, there are 3 important aspects of your body shape :
– your silhouette from the front (me – I have an indented waist, and larger hips under prominent high hips),
– your length proportions (me – I’m very short waisted, so most style advice for people with a small waist makes me look all hip),
– your special features (me – small bust, flat rear, protruding tummy).

Here’s my body image for wearing a fitted top and belt.
”hobbit”
No insult intended to hobbits, but I don’t think this is an ideal look for a human. It is the sort of thing you may be able to check for by using a croquis.

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Making your personal croquis

Here are 4 possible approaches.

One
In the recommended method for making a personal croquis, you are supposed to :
– take a photo of yourself in your undies
– trace round the outline of your photo so you have a drawing of your body silhouette.
– sketch the proposed garment over this body shape diagram, to see if it suits.

There are very detailed instructions on making a croquis from photos in Gale Grigg Hazen’s book ‘Fantastic fit for every body’ (best selection of copies from AbeBooks).

Two
Drawing neatly around the edge of a silhouette is not something I have the skills to do (I have shaky hands).
What I did was print the photo out on card. Cut out around the photo, and turn it over so I’m not distracted by the details of the photo.

Three
Get someone else to do the drawing for you, though you still have to take the photos. Here’s a service from Najah Carroll.

Four
No photos needed. Use a drawing which has been computer-generated from some basic body measurements : My Body Model.
The shape they draw doesn’t work for everyone. They don’t include the special features of my body (such as sloping shoulders and high hip bones) which are the reason why I need help with knowing what shapes look good on me.

– – –

Using a personal croquis

When you use one of these aids for getting a picture of your own shape, you still have to do your own sketching of possible styles. My Body Model have a beginners’ video on that.

I’m not much good at that, so I often simply compare my shape by eye with a line diagram of a pattern I’m interested in. Less accurate, but gives a starter idea.

Here for example is me, compared with Sewing Workshop’s Deja Vu pattern. Oh dear, obviously not. Though I love the style it’s not for me.

crdejavu1

Sadly, it would make me look like a balloon ! I may make it even so. The construction looks intriguing, and it would be a cosy cuddle-up for winter. But I won’t expect it to be flattering 😀

(This version of my body shape is the diagram for a short-waisted pear from the former Littlewood’s site information about Trinny and Susannah. Sadly the diagrams are not in their body shape book.
The big differences from my actual shape are that I’m unusually short from armhole to waist, and as I have a long head+neck my length proportions are unusual.)

And how about this Issey Miyake Vogue 1114 design, which Vogue Patterns recommend for the triangular of shape. Maybe it would look good on some of us, but I don’t think it’s worth trying for me.

”crmiyake”

While this Vogue 8509 dress pattern, with it’s vertical bodice pleats, could be something I would wear, if these days I ever did have reason to wear a dress.

”crdress”

Making this comparison has been a real ‘eye opener’. I thought I was allowing for my ‘bottom heavy’ shape in making pattern choices, but I’ve completely changed the patterns I go for since I started using this tool.

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Originally written August 09, updated May 2020, patterns not now available.

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