My choices for a/w 2012 : new BMV patterns

Posted September 15, 2012 by sewingplums
Categories: current fashion, my choices

This season I’ve just picked for myself, not patterns of general interest.
There are some marvellous new Vogue designer patterns for people who want to look both stunning and professional. But I’m past that stage of my life.

I keep saying this, but I wear big shirts and vests – a look that does appear on the runway and in many stores – though the fashion journalists rarely mention it and the wardrobe planners never do. Happily the pattern companies cater well for my tastes, even if the fashion writers don’t !

Here’s some of the new possibilities.

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Big shirts

I love a yoked shirt – works well for my personal style and my body shape.
The yoke gives a bit of definition to my skimpy shoulders.
And the gathers below allow a trim slim look over the shoulders combined with extra fabric to cover my hips.

I also prefer a style that closes up to the neck, rather then a V-neck. I feel the cold, it suits my face shape better, and it gives a bit of dimension to the front of a garment – needed as I have a small bust.

Here’s a couple of very different styles.

A big loose shirt with choice of 3 necklines, 2 sleeves and 2 hems (similar big yoke at back), McCall’s 6605.

”m6605”

Best to wear leggings or slim pants with such a big top, if you don’t want to look like a balloon !

By contrast, here’s a neat slim fit, Butterick 5826.

”b5826”

Possible to wear a much wider range of pant leg widths with a closer fitting style like this.

I also like an inset yoke and a smock style, but patterns for those are mainly from Simplicity/ New Look.

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Big tops

For wovens – the front of this drape style (left) is cut on the bias, McCall’s 6604.

”m6604”

Butterick 5816 has multiple options.

”b5816”

If you like the comfort of big loose tops, here are wide poncho-like styles for indoor wear, 3 necklines including a hoodie, 4 sleeves, 2 hems, McCall’s 6603.

”m6603”

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Vests and sleeveless tops

An easy-wear extra layer of warmth without encumbering the arms.

Here’s a fairly conventional vest pattern – ah, no, it has actually got both bust and back neck darts ! Looks spectacular made in fur (and fur gilets are high fashion). Large enough to layer over a fitted jacket, Vogue 8838.

”v8838-1”

(Safari and trench styled vests are also current. And closely fitted tailored versions.)

Or a deep cowl sleeveless layering knit tunic with 3 hems by Nancy Zieman, McCall’s 6607.

”m6607”

Leave off the cowl, add a scarf instead, change neckline/ add collar if you’re adventurous – many easy style changes.

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Piecing and Jackets

Many crafters like the challenge of pieced jackets. Modern ones are made with areas of different tones of similar solid fabrics, rather than myriad small pieces of patterned patchwork fabrics.

(P.S. though see the Givenchy Resort 2013 collection for some fantastic piecing and fabric combining.)

There’s a multi-fabric option for the jacket with the fur vest, Vogue 8838. The skill involved in making that back will only be appreciated by other sewers !

”v8838-2”

There’s also a new jacket from Marcy Tilton, Vogue 8839. For knits including fleece. It has a short cascade collar, more flattering for my small busted top. And interesting options for combining fabrics. A bit straight up and down for my shape, I might add some flare.

”v8839”

Somewhat similar – the new style multi-fabric shirt has each pattern piece in a different solid fabric (collar, placket, yoke, etc.). Not the main pattern sections (front, back, sleeves) pieced from multiple fabrics. (Or use large rather than small areas of fabric for your ‘piecing’.)

Use your favourite classic shirt pattern, or there’s a new version of the Palmer-Pletsch unisex shirt, McCall’s 6613.

”modcloths”
(These examples aren’t the Palmer-Pletsch pattern, they’re from Modcloth.)

And there are multi-fabric options for the Butterick 5816 top.

Not pieced (though it could be) : a new pattern for my usual shape of jacket – Connie Crawford Butterick 5828.

”b5828”

Or exaggerate the size – Style.com says oversized coats are a big fashion idea for this a/w.

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Bag

I’m a fan of Marcy Tilton bags, this one is Vogue 8843. But what’s with the big green leaf ? I confess I didn’t notice the bag at first, and thought the pattern was for a leaf shaped bag. Not something to take on the bus in the rush hour !

”v8843”

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Finally a skirt

There are many attractive new pants patterns this season, from very slim to wide. But I only wear one style of pants, simple classics – slightly tapered or slightly more tapered. I haven’t got the right shape legs for leggings, but I do need to look for a slim pair of pants, to have the current proportions with those big tops. Hmmm. . . Palmer-Pletsch McCall’s 6440 is not new but recent.

There is a pattern which might entice me back to skirt wearing – a long skirt with matching jacket, Vogue 8841. I could wear this round here without looking odd. Slightly shorter jacket is like the proportions of skirts and jackets in the early 20th century, my favourite historic period for style.

”v8841”

Aren’t we lucky to be free to choose from such a wide range of styles these days 😀

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Patterns and links available September 2012

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Comments: 6 Comments

Greetings after a hospital stay – and what the doctors wear

Posted September 8, 2012 by sewingplums
Categories: sundry messages

Sorry about the lapse in posting, but completely unexpectedly I went into hospital at the beginning of July.

Early in my stay there was a group of young doctors all dressed in ‘Vivienne Files’ style. And very smart and professional they looked too. (Obviously a small part of my fashion brain was still working, even if most of the rest of me wasn’t !)

It took about 6 weeks to get me sorted out and send me home, and I still have very little spare energy. I’m not expecting to go back to posting weekly – priorities have changed. I think I was getting a bit repetitive, and it’s amazing how much energy all those links and images take ! But I have a few finished but unpublished posts still in store, and no doubt will feel strongly about topics in future. . .

For example – I thought a jumper dress looked much more professional than a sheath dress on most body types. Well, a sheath dress that is anything but just right does not look professional at all ! It could be fun to look out modern jumper dress patterns. If you adapt another pattern, remember you need at least 1-2 inches/ 2.5-5 cm extra ease to layer over a top. And the armhole needs to be big enough not to crush the sleeve underneath. A close fitting sleeve looks slim, but a shirt sleeve is also current. In fact there’s a new Fashion Star shirt dress pattern, McCall’s 6600, if you want to look efficient and professional without a close fit.

And there are all the other new BMV patterns to comment on. . .

I’m delighted to see that the number of visitors to my blog hasn’t dropped dramatically despite the lack of new posts, so it looks as if you find the material helpful for reference. Which I’m very pleased about. Will have to get round to devising a better index. . .
Best Wishes and thanks to you all for your interest.

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Comments: 24 Comments

Colours, prints, fabrications – s/s 2012

Posted June 30, 2012 by sewingplums
Categories: current fashion

Apart from the peplum, there wasn’t a new major obvious shape influence on the catwalks for this spring/ summer season.

There are shift dresses – good to see them back as they’re such useful shape for the half of the population who are rectangle shape. But several collections have over-large shift dresses which make even the models look fat.

And there was a suggestion of wearing men’s striped flannel pyjamas as part of the ‘boyfriend’ look, but happily that didn’t last long. With versions in satin for party wear.

The main repeating ‘stories’ that appeared from several designers are about colour, print, fabric. Choose which you will, as they suit different personal styles.

The ones here are mainly from the UK Vogue February 2012 booklet on The Collections.

Sorry this is so late. Although summer officially started only a few days ago, McCalls have already published their first autumn patterns ! These summer ideas haven’t had much impact on me so far. They may head-line in Vogue, but haven’t yet percolated down to this little bit of multi-ethnic suburban middle England – not that we’ve had much opportunity to wear summer clothes yet anyway 😀

– – –

COLOURS

Black, cream and gold
(Many designers show almost entirely black collections, but that’s not newsworthy.)

”gucci-balenciaga”
Gucci . . . . . . . . . . . Balenciaga

White

”louis-vuitton”
Louis Vuitton

Muted pastels and sorbets

”tommy-hilfiger”
Tommy Hilfiger

(Cream or pale green if you have warm-yellow based skin tone.)

Except for black with cream contrasts, most of the colours this season are light, and many outfits have an overall similar value of colour scheme. Not many big contrasts of light/ dark or neutral/ accent.

Well, as an alternative to low contrast there is still colour blocking, some of it as strong as ever, though now some gentler.

”colour-block”
Ports 1961 . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 Phillip Lim

Or of course you could follow Pantone’s seasonal colour report and make a whole outfit in this season’s orange. . .

Or high street fashion – pants in any bright colour, if you like strong colour but not orange.

Or – it’s another season with lots of denim blue.

”marc-jacobs”
Marc by Marc Jacobs

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PRINTS

Underwater soft aquas and watery prints

”underwater”
Versace . . . . . . . . . . . Chanel

Pretty allover florals

”erdem3”
Erdem

Paisley and arabesque, either prints or cut-outs

”valentino”
Valentino

African – the fabric styles, as well as leopard and zebra animal prints.

”donna-karan-afro”
Donna Karan

Techno print – the sort of patterns you can only make on a computer.

”preen”
Preen

Print jackets and pants are also high style this season.

Here in the UK we’re supposed to wear athletic singlets and fabrics covered in Union Jacks, patriotic for the Jubilee and Olympics.

–

FABRICATIONS

Shimmering metallics, sheers, satins, grey and silver

”chanel-the-row”
Chanel . . . . . . . . . . . . The Row

For everyday not just special occasions.
Usually with simple shapes, minimalist rather than bling, possibly a sci-fi look.

Cut-outs and tape laces
several examples already.

– – –

There are of course clothes with all sorts of interesting style elements and added embellishment – I’ve chosen examples which show the fabrics clearly.

Look at the trends for yourself :
Style.com – US Vogue
UK Elle
UK In Style (scroll down for spring/ summer)

Pick which you like if you find them attractive. Otherwise take it all as entertainment and don’t worry about it 😀

– – –

Photos from Style.com
Links available June 2012

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Comments: 6 Comments

Variations of the relaxed wardrobe

Posted June 23, 2012 by sewingplums
Categories: personal style, specific capsules

Following on from the 12 clothes Janice of The Vivienne Files suggested as a relaxed starter wardrobe, she added a group of 4 accessories. And I need to add some layers as I don’t live in a hot summer climate.

So here are additions to my pattern suggestions in my previous post on this.

Here’s Janice’s starter group of four, as a reminder of the style. (clothes from L.L.Bean)

”vcore4”
image from The Vivienne Files with permission

She has posted another version of these casuals, for the whole summer, here and here.

– – –

Accessories

”vintegrate4”
image from The Vivienne Files with permission

Janice is always good on suggesting accessories. Here she completes the casual red group by adding hat, scarf, and choice of tennis shoes or flip-flops.

Changing the scarf and shoes is an easy way of completely changing the look of an outfit of simple basics.

I usually carry a straw basket, and they would work well with this group. Or a fabric tote/ messenger bag/ backpack. Make them with your scraps 😀

How about new McCall’s 6577 for both hat and tote.

”m6577”

UK Elle July 2012 issue has a big fabric hat in pink and white stripes 😀

– – –

Add a layer – many options

This capsule is very oriented to summer wearing when you only need only one layer, with occasional use of a knit cardigan or shirt-jacket for cool evenings. See my previous post for pattern suggestions.

I don’t live in a hot climate, and need a layer. When you have a layering piece to work with as part of your outfit, I think the layer you choose can make a big difference to the overall style.

Continuing with Cutting Line patterns, for a layering jacket that closes fully there’s Pure and Simple.

”clpuresimple”

If you’d like your capsule to have ‘sports luxe’ style use a hoodie – see my sports luxe post for patterns. Or a stylish new pullover hoodie for wovens, Butterick 5791

”b5791”

For a softer style I might choose a cascade/ drape cardigan. Definitely not a fitted blazer with this wardrobe – these clothes are too relaxed 😀 If you like the notched collar effect, choose an oversized boxy jacket to go over loose fitting tops. So many BMV patterns have appeared since I last wrote on big jackets, I’m planning a separate post on cascade and boxy styles !

For a more unusual look, Eileen Fisher this season frequently uses a poncho as her covering layer, in a gauze, mesh, or a very light knit. Cropped to elbow and waist length.

For a pattern, cut your own rectangle by direct marking on the fabric. Or possibilities in new Butterick 5790.

”b5790”

Or what Eileen Fisher calls a ‘box top’, basically a poncho with side seams. Simply sew up the side edge part way.

”efboxtop”
Eileen Fisher March 2012

Or try Elizabeth Gillett’s ‘jacket’ version, new Vogue 8820 View C.

”v88202”

For outerwear I would of course choose a parka. See my post on parka patterns. Or Sewaholic Patterns’ new Minoru jacket is popular.

”sewaholic-minoru2”

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A vacation/ holiday group

This red relaxed group could make a good holiday-vacation travel wardrobe.

Add an outerwear jacket to carry on the journey, swim suit and pareo, some camisoles or shells (one in a dressy fabric) – none take much packing space.

Plus another layer in flat-packing style which could double as a robe. Such as a kimono (see my post) or caftan. Or another style made from rectangles.

– – –

Widening the style reference for your summer wardrobe

Janice of The Vivienne Files followed her post on building a wardrobe of red relaxed clothes with a related group in black and grey. Those are closely fitted styles, including a blazer, slim pants, leggings, and short tight skirts. More trendy-edgy than many of her recent selections, she calls them ‘less conservative’.

Perhaps she and I use the word ‘conservative’ with different meanings – for me it is a rather negative word ! I don’t think the clothes in the red-based group are ‘conservative’ in the sense of old-fashioned and fuddy-duddy. I think of them as the simplest of relaxed basics.

In fact June 2012 UK Elle has a lead article on ‘sports luxe’ – now called ‘haute casual’ to make it look new – so perhaps we wearers of these relaxed shapes are ahead of the game 😀

Think of the black and red groups as week/ weekend, city/ suburb, or town/ country selections.

Janice has several more posts illustrating her theme of building a wardrobe in groups of 4 :
camel and grey
teal and navy
These are also more trendy and stylish.
The ‘red’ group I’ve focussed on is best for relaxed wear.

These wardrobes all have the same basic ‘Four by Four’ plan : one group of 2 tops 2 bottoms in one main colour, another group of 4 in the second main colour, a third group of 4 tops in mixed colours with added accents, plus 4 accessories.

This is a very simple wardrobe building scheme. My final posts inspired by this wardrobe from The Vivienne Files are planned to be about simple personal wardrobe building.

– – –

Many more variations possible by changing the colours, fabrics, prints, jacket and accessories – for different looks from the same group of simple shapes. (I’m planning a post on this season’s colours, prints, fabrications.)

Which would be your favourite style choices for colours, fabrics, layer and accessories, for adding your personal touch to these casual basics 😀

– – –

Links and patterns available June 2012

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Comments: 7 Comments

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