Sewingplums

What would be my ideal wardrobe plan, based on the Vogue October 09 pattern issues ? Some of these patterns are beyond my sewing skills, so I also dream a gifted dressmaker is excited to satisfy my every whim 😀

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Note : Butterick-McCall’s-Vogue has changed their websites. My BMV links now only get you to a page where you can search for a pattern number.
I apologise that I haven’t changed to the new individual URLs, but it would be a lot of work.

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I live in a moderate climate but feel the cold. I need lots of layers. And it’s my lower back and upper chest which feel cold, so I need to be well wrapped up !

I’m a sort of smart casual/ relaxed chic with a touch of embellishment person. I’m retired so don’t need to look professional. And I’m trying a vow never to buy or make straight-up-and-down clothes. Flared or waisted shapes are so much more flattering for my waisted pear shape.

So start with the shape of the Koos Vogue 1146 coat, made jacket length :

I love this type of smock style. Both yoke and cut in shoulders are good on me. Lots of potential for variety here, such as making a smaller size as a shirt-jacket. Related to my love of quilts, I’m fascinated by multi-fabric garments. So I’m often attracted to Koos’ designs. But I don’t always share his ideas on embellishment and would choose my own, if any.

Add the Mizono Vogue 1145 jacket and pants :

For a close fitting jacket to show my waist under all that cosy wrap up snuggle or swagger : the jacket from Divine Details Vogue 8614. With my longish neck, I do look better with a raised neckline when there isn’t a collar.

An easier alternative would be the custom fit Very Easy Vogue 8626 coat made as a jacket.

I would check the pattern measurements, as changing successfully from coat to jacket may mean going down a size. According to the Ease table in the Vogue paper catalogue, the bust level ease allowed for fitted garments is :
jackets : about 4 inches
coats : about 6-1/4 inches.
So going down the 2 inches of a size change might work well.

Vogue claim this pattern is custom fit for different cup sizes, but even a simple multi-seam style needs a lot of work on fitting a test garment. Vogue Very Easy patterns do tend to be at an intermediate level of difficulty compared to everyone else’s standards !

I didn’t choose these styles because “Every woman should own a tailored jacket”, but because I’m looking for a way to both define my waist and be warm. Anything structured or tailored is not right for me.

Usually I wear layers of tunics (and sweater knits), but there aren’t any tunics that catch my eye in this batch of Vogue patterns. The patterns do include some jackets which I love, so that’s the basis of the layering in this ‘dream’ plan.

If I had to pick just one starting point for tunics (and my pear shape) it would be McCall’s 5664, as this has potential for many different versions – changes in necklines and front openings.

This is not designed to be a layering top, so I would probably make it a size or two larger if using it as a top over several warm layers.

Plus I need fur vests, as I love them and they’re fashionable. But there are none in this Vogue pattern batch. I like McCall’s 5983 (left) and oop McCall’s 5187 (centre and right).

For the inmost layer, there’s Marcy Tilton’s Vogue 8618 knit tops, one of the new patterns.

Though for an inner layer I would probably wear one of the many white shirts I already have.

If I was going to add to my long row of shirts, my favourite shirt pattern is oop Alice + Olivoa Vogue 2972. I would add flare to suit my hips.

I wear ‘bottoms’ as neutral background, so use simple styles. I’m currently seeking slim legged pants, slim as I can wear with my not slim hips. The pants in the Mizono 1145 pattern might be a good starting point. (The slim pants with the Alice + Olivia shirt pattern aren’t right for me, as a low-waisted wide yoked style is not good on my curvy high hips.) Considering the Mizono pants – I also don’t look good in an elastic waist, and would need to move on to something more fitted at waist level.

A ‘proper’ wardrobe plan is supposed to be pinned down to specific numbers, so how about :
bottoms : 3 pairs pants
first layer tops : 2 shirts, 1 knit top
second layer tops : 2 tunics, 2 vests, 1 fitted jacket – vests can be worn over tunics.
third layer tops : 2 very loose fitting jackets.

That makes 13 garments in all. So long as they’re made in compatible colours and textures of fabric, there are many possible combinations.

This isn’t a wardrobe plan that would be right for people who prefer more classic, prettier, or trendier looks than I do. My pattern choices wouldn’t enrich the lives of people who like to look sexy, dramatic, sporty, creative, glamorous. . . Nor do they suit people who like knits or dresses, or have a different body shape or lifestyle. But it fits well with my current understanding of what works for me.

Every new set of patterns inspires me to make a new wardrobe plan. Dreaming up a plan is a fun thing to do 😀

Patterns available October 09.