Sewingplums

This season I’ve just picked for myself, not patterns of general interest.
There are some marvellous new Vogue designer patterns for people who want to look both stunning and professional. But I’m past that stage of my life.

I keep saying this, but I wear big shirts and vests – a look that does appear on the runway and in many stores – though the fashion journalists rarely mention it and the wardrobe planners never do. Happily the pattern companies cater well for my tastes, even if the fashion writers don’t !

Here’s some of the new possibilities.

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Big shirts

I love a yoked shirt – works well for my personal style and my body shape.
The yoke gives a bit of definition to my skimpy shoulders.
And the gathers below allow a trim slim look over the shoulders combined with extra fabric to cover my hips.

I also prefer a style that closes up to the neck, rather then a V-neck. I feel the cold, it suits my face shape better, and it gives a bit of dimension to the front of a garment – needed as I have a small bust.

Here’s a couple of very different styles.

A big loose shirt with choice of 3 necklines, 2 sleeves and 2 hems (similar big yoke at back), McCall’s 6605.

Best to wear leggings or slim pants with such a big top, if you don’t want to look like a balloon !

By contrast, here’s a neat slim fit, Butterick 5826.

Possible to wear a much wider range of pant leg widths with a closer fitting style like this.

I also like an inset yoke and a smock style, but patterns for those are mainly from Simplicity/ New Look.

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Big tops

For wovens – the front of this drape style (left) is cut on the bias, McCall’s 6604.

Butterick 5816 has multiple options.

If you like the comfort of big loose tops, here are wide poncho-like styles for indoor wear, 3 necklines including a hoodie, 4 sleeves, 2 hems, McCall’s 6603.

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Vests and sleeveless tops

An easy-wear extra layer of warmth without encumbering the arms.

Here’s a fairly conventional vest pattern – ah, no, it has actually got both bust and back neck darts ! Looks spectacular made in fur (and fur gilets are high fashion). Large enough to layer over a fitted jacket, Vogue 8838.

(Safari and trench styled vests are also current. And closely fitted tailored versions.)

Or a deep cowl sleeveless layering knit tunic with 3 hems by Nancy Zieman, McCall’s 6607.

Leave off the cowl, add a scarf instead, change neckline/ add collar if you’re adventurous – many easy style changes.

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Piecing and Jackets

Many crafters like the challenge of pieced jackets. Modern ones are made with areas of different tones of similar solid fabrics, rather than myriad small pieces of patterned patchwork fabrics.

(P.S. though see the Givenchy Resort 2013 collection for some fantastic piecing and fabric combining.)

There’s a multi-fabric option for the jacket with the fur vest, Vogue 8838. The skill involved in making that back will only be appreciated by other sewers !

There’s also a new jacket from Marcy Tilton, Vogue 8839. For knits including fleece. It has a short cascade collar, more flattering for my small busted top. And interesting options for combining fabrics. A bit straight up and down for my shape, I might add some flare.

Somewhat similar – the new style multi-fabric shirt has each pattern piece in a different solid fabric (collar, placket, yoke, etc.). Not the main pattern sections (front, back, sleeves) pieced from multiple fabrics. (Or use large rather than small areas of fabric for your ‘piecing’.)

Use your favourite classic shirt pattern, or there’s a new version of the Palmer-Pletsch unisex shirt, McCall’s 6613.

(These examples aren’t the Palmer-Pletsch pattern, they’re from Modcloth.)

And there are multi-fabric options for the Butterick 5816 top.

Not pieced (though it could be) : a new pattern for my usual shape of jacket – Connie Crawford Butterick 5828.

Or exaggerate the size – Style.com says oversized coats are a big fashion idea for this a/w.

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Bag

I’m a fan of Marcy Tilton bags, this one is Vogue 8843. But what’s with the big green leaf ? I confess I didn’t notice the bag at first, and thought the pattern was for a leaf shaped bag. Not something to take on the bus in the rush hour !

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Finally a skirt

There are many attractive new pants patterns this season, from very slim to wide. But I only wear one style of pants, simple classics – slightly tapered or slightly more tapered. I haven’t got the right shape legs for leggings, but I do need to look for a slim pair of pants, to have the current proportions with those big tops. Hmmm. . . Palmer-Pletsch McCall’s 6440 is not new but recent.

There is a pattern which might entice me back to skirt wearing – a long skirt with matching jacket, Vogue 8841. I could wear this round here without looking odd. Slightly shorter jacket is like the proportions of skirts and jackets in the early 20th century, my favourite historic period for style.

Aren’t we lucky to be free to choose from such a wide range of styles these days 😀

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Patterns and links available September 2012

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Here’s the second part of my comments on the new April pattern issues from Vogue. Separates and bags – now some of these are styles I might wear myself 😀

The first of these posts on the April patterns was on dresses.

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Flounces and drapes

Vogue 8816 has many drape neck empire waist options.

A flouncy jumpsuit from DKNY – Vogue 1308, an option for conversion to a top ?

Flounces or peplum knits, take your choice, from Rebecca Taylor – Vogue 1306.

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More tops with extra room below the waist

Vogue 8817 – seaming and embellishing interest on a knit top from Katherine Tilton.

Vogue 8815 – a peplum top, how useful.

Vogue 8821 – straight front and swirling back, a rare pattern that can be seen better in a photo than a diagram.

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Some interesting layers

Vogue 8804. A new ‘Chanel’ style jacket pattern with couture instructions from Claire Shaeffer is sure to generate interest.

Very Easy Vogue 8819 – an interesting cut, effective in stripes. Looks like a shape that may be good on larger hips. Make it in a stable knit, to support those bias cut sections.

Vogue 8820 – light summer/ evening shrugs from Elizabeth Gillett.
Have you got a standard Little Black Dress that you wish was more interesting ? One of these cover-ups could be just the thing.

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Big Designer Bags – round or flat ?

Vogue 1311 – from Koos – photo shows that what’s made as a cylinder shape falls into a ‘sphere’ in use.

Vogue 8823 – many variants on flat bag shapes, from Marcy Tilton.

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Now which will I be picking out for my delight this summer. . . 😀

Pity it’s difficult to wear a jacket over flounces, and I really don’t feel warm enough in our UK ‘summer’ to manage without a jacket very often.

So perhaps I need to look for a jacket with flounces. . .

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Patterns available May 2012

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Some of the new season Vogues are a joy for people who’re fascinated by how patterns work.

The last few pattern issues have been mainly sheath and vintage dresses. I know those shapes are current but I don’t wear them myself and have difficulty working up any interest. Don’t see many people round here wearing them either, even though this is a young university suburb. Many short skirts, leggings and sweaters, but not dresses. Perhaps it’s different at corporate offices or parties in a big city.

I’m also becoming interested in flounces – though only in moderation.

Anyway, this set of Vogues has so much I want to mention this post got very long. So I’ve made 2 sections, this one on dresses, and another on separates, jackets and bags.

Yes these are dresses, but ‘interesting’ ones, not just sheaths (which are a very Classic style 😀 )

The most common current dress shapes are :
– close fitted sheath,
– vintage 50s – fitted bodice and big skirt,
– classic shirt-waist.

These patterns add :
– shift,
– tent-triangle,
– drapes, swathes, flounces.

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Shift dresses, some with colour blocking

Very Easy Vogue 8805

Very Easy Vogue 8806 – similar but with set in sleeves, different yoke placement, and a hood. I can see myself in this as a top or tunic.

Vogue 1300 – a simple elegant flounced shift from DKNY, another possibility for a top. And another I might wear myself.

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Tent shape

Now this is more for me 😀

Vogue 1301 – fascinating options from Koos. Could be a thigh length tunic.

Very Easy Vogue 8807 – a simpler version swirling from a yoke. Another I think could make a good top or tunic.

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Drapes and flounces from designers

Vogue 1304 – lots of shaping interest from Lialia. If you’ve got the right body to go inside it 😀

Vogue 1302 – close swathes from Kay Unger. Again lovely if you’ve got the shape for it, but not something I could wear myself.


Vogue 1305 – oh joy, something really interesting from Lialia. Not for me to wear, but understanding how it works as a pattern gives me great pleasure. Are the two versions actually the same dress with 2 different neck openings ?


Wow, a pattern that actually looks better on a body than in a line diagram.
But another style that leaves nowhere for a less than perfect shape to hide.

Vogue 8813 – drapes from Marcy Tilton.


Well, hiding bodies maybe, but Vogue recommends this for the pear shaped. Hmm, thanks but no thanks. I like crafters’ smocks, but wouldn’t feel flattered in this – though I can imagine people I know who have a different body shape and would love this.

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Are these separates or a colour blocked dress ?

Vogue 1310 – more elegance, in bias lines from Chado Ralph Rucci.

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Not much I would wear myself, but great pattern interest and pleasure.

My second post, about new patterns for separates, has styles I’ll be more likely to wear.

Which do you enjoy ?

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Patterns available May 2012

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