Sewingplums

Have a woven tee pattern and want to make a blouse ?
Have a pullover layering pattern and want to make a jacket ?
Have a sweatshirt pattern and want to make a zippered hoodie ?
Have a personal bodice block and looking for easy open-front options to make with it ?

As often with my posts, my post on closed-to-open-front pattern changes kept expanding. Which is why I said years ago I was going to write one and never got down to it. . . I’ve been thinking about it ever since I wrote a post on converting open-front-to-closed !

This is the first in a group of 4 posts about pattern making for front openings :
1. zip, button band (this post)
1b. adding extras to a front band
2. combined facing to front edge and neckline
2b. adding to a front-neckline facing

There are many little design decisions to make. If you’re not sure what to do – have a look at RTW – snoop shop and clothes you own – and see how they deal with it. They can be a marvellous resource for making, as well as something to wear 😀 Best to snoop shop at high end. Cheap clothing lines use least materials and quickest sewing, and home sewists usually haven’t got to do that.

Pattern skills :
– draw the fold lines, stitch lines, cut lines on pattern paper or fabric at specific spacings,
– understand different types and widths of bands.

Starter pattern :
Front pattern piece with centre front line CF marked from neck to waist/hip.

No need to draw or even have your own block.
Pattern making courses and text books tell you how to draw your own starter pattern, called a ‘block’. Then how to alter it to make other styles.
But the two stages are separate. You can start your pattern alterations from any pattern piece. Best to use ones with few style elements, or something in common with the style you want to make.

Other tools :
– fabric marker.
– a quilter’s 6×24 ruler makes it easy to mark lines at measured distances apart.

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Edge-to-edge opening

Basically : cut down CF and finish the edges with plain bands, binding, double fold hem, or ribbon.
To add a facing instead, see post on combined facing to front edge and neckline.

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Exposed open ended / separating zip

McCall’s 7026

Fabric marking

Instead of placing pattern centre front on a fabric fold – add seam allowances to centre front.
Seam allowance width = width of (zip tape + teeth).

half size practice pattern from Czachor & Cole

No need to make a special pattern piece.
Place the front pattern away from the edge of the fabric, and use a marking tool and ruler to draw the cutting line onto the fabric. At the seam allowance width from the CF line.

Sewing

video tutorial from Professor Pincushion

For a quality inside finish, cover the edge of seam allowance and zip tape with bias binding.

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Button bands

Two main methods of adding a cut-on button band, with a single fold or a double fold to the inside.
If your fabric is the same both sides, you can double fold to the outside.
Or add a separate band, perhaps in contrast fabric.

Choose your buttons first, as the pattern making usually depends on what size they are.

Buttons are usually placed on the Centre Front line. There’s usually an extension beyond that to support buttons and buttonholes. The extension is usually 1 button width.
That means the two fronts overlap by 2x button width.

You can of course use any size button with any width extension, but some combinations look odd. If you use different sizes – best to check the result is what you want before making the final garment.

There are surprisingly many features of an opening which relate to the button size used, so with commercial patterns it’s best to use the button size in the instructions.

Buttonhole angle is also a design decision. Blouses/ shirts/ dresses often have vertical buttonholes, with a horizontal buttonhole at the neckline. While jackets/ coats usually have all horizontal buttonholes.
Best to use horizontal buttonholes in positions which take extra strain, or where the garment may be buttoned/ unbuttoned frequently.

If you’d like detailed photo instructions on sewing these, try this post from SewAndrew.

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Button band with single fold – like a cut-on facing

Vogue 9258

Fabric marking

Beyond the CF line on the pattern :
– measure width of front extension beyond CF – this is a design choice but is usually the width of button used.
– mark fold line.
– measure width for fold back, usually 2x button width.
– measure added amount for inner edge finish, usually up to seam allowance width.
– mark cutting line.

Sewing

Add interfacing onto the fold line and fold back section, to support the fold and the buttons and buttonholes.
Finish the cut edge.
The ‘facing’ is held in place by the buttons and buttonholes.

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Button band with double fold – like a hem

Fabric marking

Beyond the pattern CF :
– measure extension beyond CF – width of button.
– mark fold line.
– measure width of first fold back – 2x width of button.
– mark fold line.
– measure width of fold inside band – 2 options :
. . . . . seam allowance or less.
. . . . . 2x width of button again – so there’s a 3rd layer of fashion fabric giving extra support to buttons, instead of interfacing.
– mark cutting line.

Sewing

It’s easy to sew a lovely straight line using an edge stitch foot on your machine, I think that’s my favourite extra foot !
Several ways of sewing this band.

One line of stitching

Here are 2 photo tutorials on this :
100 Acts of Sewing uses edge fold 1/4″ wide, main fold 1″ wide.

Lauren Guthrie has both folds full width.
She describes a back opening, but use the same method for a centre front opening.

Top-stitch along both folds

Seen more on shirts. This one has the band folded to the outside.


from Kwik Sew 4075

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Separate band

Butterick 6465 by Connie Crawford

Pattern for band may be wider to make the added strip a special feature.

Typical pattern strip width :
s/a, 2-3 x button width, 2-3 x button width, s/a

Same length as front edge.

Front edge of main pattern piece
You’ve added to the front width by adding on the band,
so need to reduce the width at CF by half the finished width of the band.

You could draw folding, stitching, cutting lines direct on the fabric.
But you may feel more confident if you try them out on paper first.
Fold up the band pattern and hold it up on you – does the width look right ?

Sewing

video from Professor Pincushion

She finishes the band by hand, using ladder stitch.
Alternative : fold the band so the edge is a smidge past the attachment seam, and machine stitch in the ditch from the right side.

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Button placement

Put one button at bust point level, and spread the others out from there.
Easiest to space them evenly.

Have the garment made up enough for you to try it on.
Look in a mirror and place pins in the band where you want the buttons.
Top button – at the neck, or placed for the effect you want.
Lowest button – best to place this above your ‘hip break’ line or your top-of-sitting-thigh level, so it isn’t strained when you sit down.
(I would put the bottom of a zip here too.)

Button numbers and spacing are design decisions, for example you can put them in groups of 2 or 3, or at random spacing.
Or how about every button different ! Then the extension width to use is a judgement call, perhaps the average size.

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All week I’ve been adding little comments about how to finish the neckline of a front band top. And extras you can add to your button band top.
This post got much too long, so I’ve separated off those comments.
Here’s the supplement post.

Start with the simplest, if like me you get overwhelmed by too many options.
Enjoy the process and celebrate what you make 😀

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Originally written December 2018, links checked February 2021

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Do-It-Yourself ‘pattern hacks’.
Last year I wrote a post describing the easiest types of pattern changes which are :

Beginner (no need to re-draw pattern pieces) :
– change length of hems and sleeves,
– omit patch / inseam / welt pockets, collar piece of 2-piece collar,
– use a larger size for a layering garment (not the best technique for making a pattern for a layer, but it is easy).
Advanced Beginner :
– change edge shape of collars, patch pockets,
– add seamlines, e.g. for yoke, colour blocking,
– change shape of neckline, cuff, hem edge (also change facing if used),
– omit collar, cuffs, sleeves – may need to make facing patterns,
– omit slant pockets – need to combine pattern pieces.
Intermediate :
– open or close the front of a pattern,
– make a skirt from a pant pattern.

There are of course many other possible pattern alterations, those are just some easy ones.

That post was based on one specific pattern, but it had a final section on other patterns and sources of advice you might use. That section has kept spreading, so I’ve made it this separate post.

This is a developing area of sewing support, so this is just a selection of the possibilities.

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Written instruction

Pattern pieces provided for all the variations

Of course many people don’t want to do their own pattern making. Would much rather just find a pattern they like where someone else has dealt with the variations. We all have different skills we enjoy using when we’re making clothes.

Lotta Jansdotter’s wardrobe pattern book Everyday Style just uses fabric or length changes to make her style variations. Traceable paper patterns. BurdaStyle-like brief instructions (what to do, not how to do it), not for beginner sewers.
Sew Serendipity by Kay Whitt is a wardrobe pattern book which includes the pattern pieces needed for the style variations. Tissue patterns.
The Magic Patterns Book by Amy Barickman also has pattern pieces for all the variations. Pdf patterns.
Sonya Philip’s video classes at Creative Bug include pdf patterns and video instruction on how to make several variants of each.
BurdaStyle patterns magazine often has the same block as the base of several different garments.

If you are interested in learning about pattern making, you can learn much by looking at how these pattern variations are achieved (it’s often very simple).

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Pattern pieces provided for components, and you choose your combination

Fit For Art patterns provide a half-way house. There are basic tissue patterns for knit top, pants, and jacket. Then many further patterns with the pattern pieces for other styles.

There are also several books which provide you with patterns for components. These are a couple of them :
Pattern making templates for skirts and dresses by Alice Prier
Sew many dresses by Tanya Whelan
I don’t sew dresses myself, so can’t comment if these do the job well.

Given how interesting tunics can be these days, The Tunic Bible is remarkably dull, just one basic style.

The basis of doing this is to use patterns which match at the seams, so you can change the shape of the pattern each side of the seam, such as pattern pieces with the :
– same length of neckline seam : use different collars,
– same length of princess seam : change neckline or draping in centre panel, without having to re-draft anything else,
– same length of armhole seam : combine different bodies and sleeves,
– same length of waist seam : combine different tops and bottoms for dresses, jumpsuits, peplum tops, jackets, coats. . .
If you want to combine pattern elements which haven’t got the same length seams, it’s often simple to trace the matching pattern edge from the other pattern.

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Do your own simple pattern altering

Easy re-drawing of pattern pieces.
There’s no need to be daunted by the huge pattern making college texts. There are many simple introductions.
See my post linked above, on easy pattern changes.

Many ideas for what to do with the shirt, pants and a-line skirt patterns provided in Wendy Mullin’s pattern book, Sew U.
The styling booklets and leaflets from Sure Fit Designs have clear instructions for many options, and can be used with most basic pattern blocks, not just hers.
The FitNice System has 2 very simple base paper patterns and many pdfs about style changes. The basics are knit tee, elastic-waist pants – the free pdfs show what the blocks are like. Again the base blocks don’t work well for me, but you can use the pattern altering instructions on any personal block.
Cal Patch’s book DIY Clothes has you start with simple basic block drafting, then there are instructions for patterns for many current styles. Sadly the book doesn’t work well for me as there are few diagrams. Minimal sewing instructions. She now also has video classes at Creative Bug.

Several of the independent pattern companies have a blog with easy ‘pattern hacks’. I’m not going to try to list those, as any list of independent pattern companies changes daily !

Combine simple pattern changes with good sewing instruction ?
The oop book Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way has many easy variants from tee and shirt-blouse patterns.
Alison Smith’s book Dressmaking step by step (12 patterns, 19 variations) is a selection from her big Dressmaking book (the same 12 patterns, 31 variations) (these Sewingplums pdfs show the patterns included : US letter, A4).

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Video instruction

These all show how to draw your own changed patterns.

Many of Peggy Sager’s webcasts are about simple but effective pattern variations. She talks about Silhouette patterns, but most of the ideas apply to many similar patterns.

Angela Wolf has 2 Threads magazine DVDs/downloads on alterations to specific patterns :
1. wardrobe pattern with dress, skirt, pants, jacket
2. classic sheath dress and jacket pattern

Here’s an on-line course from Cashmerette on changing a sleeveless top pattern to make multiple styles. Emphasis on pattern changes. A curvy pattern, but the same ideas apply for all shapes and sizes !

There are Craftsy classes on varying the style details of shirts and pants.

If you want to learn ‘professional’ detail about pattern making, Suzy Furrer has Craftsy classes with some suggestions for designing tops and pants.
She also has specific classes on patterns for : darts and seam lines, necklines, collars and closures, and sleeves.

Those are all about making the patterns for specific styles.
Peggy Sagers of Silhouette patterns has 2 useful more general DVDs :
– her basic pattern making DVDs are very clear, tho expensive.
– she also has a DVD on combining details from different patterns.

I find that, while I love videos for sewing technique, when I’m learning about pattern making I prefer written instructions with lots of diagrams to ponder at my own pace.

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Some places to visit which have no pattern altering instructions, but many ideas about what to do

This pinterest board shows some patterns that are particularly easy to make changes to.

Not sure what you want ? This post links to pinterest boards with many style elements for different types of garments.

A few years ago I wrote a post on some patterns which show a range of other options for simple pattern and style altering. And it’s partner post on more casual styles.
Those posts are not solely about pattern changes, but there are several good examples of small changes which can make a big difference.

There are also of course many ways you can alter a garment without doing any pattern work.
This post has many starting points for combining fabrics or adding sewn embellishments.
This pinterest board has many inspiring examples of fabric combining.
Diane Ericson has published a new version of her ‘Just Pockets’ pattern, with 60 pocket ideas !

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What a wealth of possibilities. It can be bit overwhelming. Definitely a good incentive to get clear about your personal style.

It used to look so easy just to leaf through a print pattern catalogue and spot patterns you liked ! But I usually didn’t see anything that was ‘quite right’. Now I’m happier taking elements from different patterns and knowing how to combine them.

Can you see why commercial companies of cheaper clothes make one basic block, and then make many small changes to give different looks ?
It’s developing the basic block which needs the main work. Then the potential for tweaking it to make different styles is almost endless.

For us home sewers with far from average shapes – get the basic pattern blocks to fit, and that’s most of our fitting challenges sorted.

Then, if that’s what we enjoy, we can have fun with playing the changes 😀

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Patterns and links available July 2017

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