Sewingplums

Apart from the peplum, there wasn’t a new major obvious shape influence on the catwalks for this spring/ summer season.

There are shift dresses – good to see them back as they’re such useful shape for the half of the population who are rectangle shape. But several collections have over-large shift dresses which make even the models look fat.

And there was a suggestion of wearing men’s striped flannel pyjamas as part of the ‘boyfriend’ look, but happily that didn’t last long. With versions in satin for party wear.

The main repeating ‘stories’ that appeared from several designers are about colour, print, fabric. Choose which you will, as they suit different personal styles.

The ones here are mainly from the UK Vogue February 2012 booklet on The Collections.

Sorry this is so late. Although summer officially started only a few days ago, McCalls have already published their first autumn patterns ! These summer ideas haven’t had much impact on me so far. They may head-line in Vogue, but haven’t yet percolated down to this little bit of multi-ethnic suburban middle England – not that we’ve had much opportunity to wear summer clothes yet anyway 😀

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COLOURS

Black, cream and gold
(Many designers show almost entirely black collections, but that’s not newsworthy.)


Gucci . . . . . . . . . . . Balenciaga

White


Louis Vuitton

Muted pastels and sorbets

Tommy Hilfiger

(Cream or pale green if you have warm-yellow based skin tone.)

Except for black with cream contrasts, most of the colours this season are light, and many outfits have an overall similar value of colour scheme. Not many big contrasts of light/ dark or neutral/ accent.

Well, as an alternative to low contrast there is still colour blocking, some of it as strong as ever, though now some gentler.

Ports 1961 . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 Phillip Lim

Or of course you could follow Pantone’s seasonal colour report and make a whole outfit in this season’s orange. . .

Or high street fashion – pants in any bright colour, if you like strong colour but not orange.

Or – it’s another season with lots of denim blue.


Marc by Marc Jacobs

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PRINTS

Underwater soft aquas and watery prints


Versace . . . . . . . . . . . Chanel

Pretty allover florals


Erdem

Paisley and arabesque, either prints or cut-outs

Valentino

African – the fabric styles, as well as leopard and zebra animal prints.


Donna Karan

Techno print – the sort of patterns you can only make on a computer.

Preen

Print jackets and pants are also high style this season.

Here in the UK we’re supposed to wear athletic singlets and fabrics covered in Union Jacks, patriotic for the Jubilee and Olympics.

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FABRICATIONS

Shimmering metallics, sheers, satins, grey and silver


Chanel . . . . . . . . . . . . The Row

For everyday not just special occasions.
Usually with simple shapes, minimalist rather than bling, possibly a sci-fi look.

Cut-outs and tape laces
several examples already.

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There are of course clothes with all sorts of interesting style elements and added embellishment – I’ve chosen examples which show the fabrics clearly.

Look at the trends for yourself :
Style.com – US Vogue
UK Elle
UK In Style (scroll down for spring/ summer)

Pick which you like if you find them attractive. Otherwise take it all as entertainment and don’t worry about it 😀

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Photos from Style.com
Links available June 2012

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The main new shape for the coming season is the peplum, as picked out by UK Vogue. “It’s spring’s big silhouette story” – literally.

Not a jacket with any old waist seam, but a shape with emphasis below the waist.

UK Vogue February 2012 : designers Yves Saint-Laurent, Jason Wu, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

For more photos, see the ‘Cristobal Method’ section of the Style.com/ US Vogue Spring Trends.

Most patterns with a waist seam are flat and fitted below the waist, but these have a bigger shape.
Which (if any !) do you think would be more flattering on your body ?

Only a couple of pattern shapes with a peplum as a big style element : flared or with an emphasised hip curve. And with less emphasis than the stiffened designer extreme on the right, which most people would only wear for special occasions.

Gathers and up-down pleats are other possibilities for a bigger peplum, but I didn’t find them in current patterns. If you know a little about pattern making, it’s easy enough to make your own versions.
Use the above-waist part of a jacket pattern with waist seam, and combine with :
Gathers : a hip+ length of fabric.
Pleats : the top of a pleated skirt pattern with released pleats. Or play around with making your own pleats in a length of fabric.

Here are some emphasised versions which are wearable for everyday.

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Slight flare

Burda 7292 (with skirt and vest)

Burda 7401

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Full short flare

Burda 7495 (with dress)

Vogue 8739 (with dress, skirt, pants)

And a lovely one with raised waist from Chado Ralph Rucci, Vogue 1269 (with dress). Good if you do want the emphasised styling.

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Full long flare

McCall’s 6442

Vogue 8465 (choice of fitted or flared below waist, hip emphasis can be balanced with big collar)

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Strong hip curve

Vogue 1136 is a vintage pattern with interesting horizontal tucks (with dress)

Vogue 8601

Vogue 8627

I saw an attractive padded parka with this waist-to-hip shape the other day.

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Style.com/ US Vogue picks out a bare midriff as another type of waist emphasis in the coming season.
See the ‘Ab Fab’ section of their Spring Trend Reports.

designer No.21

Basically a matching bra and skirt, or sometimes pants. Waistline at natural waist, rarely lower. A style that would only be important for somewhere with a warmer climate than we have in the UK !

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Have not managed to come to clear conclusions about which body shapes an emphasised peplum would look good on.

Though I do know the flouncy ones are not for me. I’m different sizes above and below the waist and have a noticeable waist, so I like a waist seam as an easy route to good fit. But I prefer a style that’s sleek over the hips – that’s not a body area I need to emphasise. Several patterns for flatter styles. Vogue is good place to look.

I suspect the emphasised shapes are best for people who are looking for ‘essence of waistline’.
People who like girly styles will love the flounces.
And a few of these patterns are definitely challenges for dressmaking skills !

I enjoy a peplum as a style element.
Does this sort of feature fit in with your personal style ?
Would a flat peplum or flare below your waist be best for your body shape ?

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Patterns and links available February 2012

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