Sewingplums

UK In Style magazine made their usual seasonal suggestions about the classics to wear for work this summer, a couple of months ago. But I got so tired of blazers it’s taken me rather a long time to get down to writing about it 😀

Even though what I wrote last winter about UK In Style’s choices for workwear have been some of my most popular posts.

Most of these key workwear pieces for spring/ summer 2011 are easy to achieve.

– – –

Classic shirt

This season it’s just a straight shirt, not one with added bow.

Although it isn’t clear from these photos, they both have band collar.

Many patterns for a classic shirt. These are some with fitting help. My favourite new one is Vogue 8689 Custom Fit with 4 cup sizes. More waist shape than the In Style ones.

For some help with other fit issues there’s Palmer Pletsch McCall’s 5433.

Sorry to those of you who aren’t happy wearing shirts. In Style says “If you can buy one thing make it this”.

But they do include a photo of a collarless blouse. A softer style with some quiet pretty trim at centre front.

Perhaps McCall’s 5138 made without collar.

So go that way if you prefer softer blouses with more shaping !
(There’s another collarless blouse that I’ve put with the jackets for style reasons.)

– – –

Belted shirt dress

A classic shape, perhaps double breasted, or in safari style.

The centre one is double breasted and collarless.
The others have band collars, big pockets, epaulettes.
All are belted (self fabric sash or slim dark leather). And look as if they have no waist shaping, which gives a bloused effect.

I had difficulty finding a shirt dress pattern with band collar. This Burda 7827 is the best. Omit the trench overlay and epaulettes if you want to.

Here’s a pattern to mimic the centre ‘collarless trench’ style, by leaving off the collar : Suzy Chin Butterick 5598.

A band collar looks best on me. I like the extra dimension it gives when worn open. There are many shirt patterns with a band collar. So if you like this collar it may be easy to lengthen a shirt pattern to make a dress.

Most of the shirt dress patterns I’ve found have a flat collar.
Many people with a larger front prefer this flat style as they don’t want to add more dimension to their upper body !

flat collar . . . . . . . band collar (wear open)
McCall’s 5847. . . . McCall’s 5433

This Palmer-Pletsch shirt dress McCall’s 5847 has flat collar and princess seams. 4 sleeves and 3 lengths.
Shaped waist, so no bloused effect, which is better if you need a slimmer look.

It must be said, this season’s dress may look classic, but the In Style shirt-dresses do have a bit of street/ edge. ‘Boyfriend’ style – looks like a large men’s shirt. Loose shape, and style details like a belt, floppy pockets, epaulettes. The belt is for what Pati Palmer calls ‘essence of waistline’, not a fitted waist to show off hourglass curves.

Which collar, ease level, and waist style are most flattering for you ?

– – –

Skirts

In Style don’t mention skirts, but You Look Fab says sunray pleats are the trend for work this season.

YouLookFab

Oh dear, I confess that isn’t a skirt style I can be enthusiastic about. I had a grey polyester one which I wore every day for 3 years in my penniless student days in the late 50s. Along with my father’s old shirts and a nylon yarn twinset I’d knitted myself. Lower calf length, worn with stockings as pantyhose hadn’t yet been invented. Everything indestructible. Nearly bomb proof stockings – can’t remember what the texture was called that made holes rather than ladders. Even they couldn’t always survive chemistry lab. . . (In case you’re wondering – in those days it would have been unthinkable to turn up to class in pants.) Not a wardrobe experience I want to repeat.

YLF’s short flippy skirts with many narrow pleats do look rather more fun 😀

True sun-ray style is not for DIY with those permanent pleats. Leave it to a machine specially devised to press them firmly in place all in one go. An alternative is a short skirt with many unpressed pleats.

– – –

Wide leg pants

The winter trendy pants were peg-top, wide hips tapering to the ankle.
This season it’s wide legs all the way down.
With the top of the waistband at waist level, or no waistband.
What In Style call ‘Annie Hall chic’.

See Claire Shaeffer’s elegant couture Vogue 8498.

– – –

This got rather long, so I’ve put the In Style workwear jackets and accessories in a separate post.

Here are links to last season’s posts on the classic jacket and coat, and blouses, skirts, pants, dresses for winter workwear.

Easy for you this season if you like looking effective with a very classic style 😀

– – –

Most photos from UK In Style magazine.

Patterns and links available June 2011

All the talk of blazers got me a bit out of touch with my own style. So now for something I might wear myself.

Artisan – Carpenter – Utility – Safari – Hunter – Lumberjack – Backwoods – Fatigues – Railway
All words for similar styles, shirt-jackets or jackets with :
– tough fabrics,
– many big pockets,
– perhaps shoulder yokes, or topstitching,
– often very loose boxy shape.

Safari style is slightly different, typically sand, tan, khaki, or olive colour, perhaps with epaulettes, usually a slimmer style in lighter fabrics for warm weather.

The conspicuous pockets are the key feature.
Often pleated or bellows/ poacher’s pockets with flaps.

These styles are usually loose, practical and robust. But they can also be elegant, see Chado Ralph Rucci Vogue 1144.

and the new Claire Shaeffer Vogue 8732 with couture details.

There are many big shirt patterns with 2 upper chest pockets.
Also many with 2 lower pockets. These are some in-style versions :
Dana Marie Sahara.
Green Pepper 537 Frenchglen barn jacket.
MacPhee Workshop 220 Western Plains jacket.

But there are surprisingly few patterns with 4 pockets.

There’s Kwik Sew 3534

And the new Connie Crawford wardrobe Butterick 5618.

For a coat length version, see Burda 7786.

– – –

Pocket inspiration

So start with a favourite big shirt, shirt-jacket or loose jacket pattern and add pockets.

Where can you get inspiration ? I must be a fan of a plethora of pockets, as I have several patterns which are discontinued but still findable with a search.

Here’s Jalie vest 957

How’s that for a challenge to anyone who wants to get over pocket phobia ! There’s no double welt pocket, but I think if I worked through all the others, making one of those would no longer worry me 😀 Put one in the lining, there’s only a simple zippered pocket there. My father’s jackets had a double welt pocket in the lining, with button or button tab for added security.

Or for a prettier style with much easier pockets, there’s Indygo Junction Sewer’s Smock.

What would you like to carry with you when crafting ? Adapt the pockets for your own use.

Park Bench patterns River Walk skirt suit has been discontinued too.

An entertaining yet simple way of making pockets decorative, and easy to copy.

There are several hunting and fishing vest patterns in print, such as Kwik Sew 2198.

Also
Green Pepper 501 Oakridge Hunter’s vest, and 502 Rogue River Fishing vest.
MacPhee Workshop 100 Cargo vest.

– – –

On-line goodies

Wild Ginger Wild Things is free software for hats and bags that generates pocket patterns in several styles and sizes.

Here’s a free pdf from Colette patterns about pockets to add to their men’s shirt pattern.

And a photo tutorial from Burda on making pleated pockets.

There are many on-line pocket making tutorials, but they’re mainly about patch and welt pockets.

P.S. 2016 Burda Style now has a group of download patterns in safari / utility style.

– – –

Carpenter shorts and pants

Pants with as many pockets as can be fitted on around your hips.

Add pockets to a favourite casual pant shape.
Here’s some inspiration from builder’s aprons.

These are some patterns you could use as a starting point.

McCall’s 5633 has side front and thigh pockets.

New Look 6876 has pockets in 3 places.

Double up the side and back pockets for this style.

– – –

I would wear any of the jackets, but perhaps these pants covered in pockets are only for someone with slim hips 😀 Many men round here wear knee length shorts with multiple pockets, but not many women !
Most ‘inverted triangle’ shape people, larger above the waist, need to be careful with jacket pocket placement.

This is generally such a casual style, it’s more ‘street’ than ‘runway’. In tough fabrics and usually looks a bit battered. But there are designer quality versions, as I showed earlier.

Actually the queen of patterns with pockets is Saf-T Pockets. But the principle there is rather different, as the whole point of those pockets is that they’re secret 😀

Fashion parkas are a related style – loose and with big pockets, but also hood and waist casing. Here’s a post on parka patterns.

P.S. 2017 : This is a continuing interest. I now have a pinterest board for over-sized jacket patterns. Though they’re not in ‘utility’ style – which typically has funnel collar, waist casing, large pockets.
This year I’ve only found these ‘utility style’ patterns :
Allie Olsen Lonetree jacket
Waffle patterns Tosti jacket

– – –

Patterns and links available May 2011

Here’s some May Day fun. Will this idea last ?
Feast your eyes on the fascinating cut of these voluminous dresses.

Issey Miyake Vogue 1238

Sandra Betzina Vogue 1234

McCall’s 6347

or McCall’s 6350 for something more restrained.

For a balloon style, there’s the Sewing Workshop Tosca dress.

or Donna Karan Vogue 1175.

And what about these pants :

Vogue Woman Vogue 8588

or for stretch knits there’s Vogue 8738.

And a skirt by AKO, Vogue 1248

– – –

I love that it’s possible to wear longer dresses this season. People here are coming out in them as soon as the sun shines. And I love swishing skirts. These look as if they would be marvellous to swirl around in. Though I’m not sure what happens when you sit down.

And I do think this is one instance where shape shouldn’t echo shape. I may have a triangle shape body, but I don’t think I would look good in these triangle shape clothes ! More like a mountain with foot hills. . .

I’m intrigued with how these are made, though I wouldn’t be happy wearing them myself.

But great fun for those with the panache to carry it off 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available May 2011