Archive for the ‘current fashion’ category

April issue Vogue patterns – separates

May 26, 2012

Here’s the second part of my comments on the new April pattern issues from Vogue. Separates and bags – now some of these are styles I might wear myself 😀

The first of these posts on the April patterns was on dresses.

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Flounces and drapes

Vogue 8816 has many drape neck empire waist options.

”v8816”

A flouncy jumpsuit from DKNY – Vogue 1308, an option for conversion to a top ?

”v1308”

Flounces or peplum knits, take your choice, from Rebecca Taylor – Vogue 1306.

”v1306”

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More tops with extra room below the waist

Vogue 8817 – seaming and embellishing interest on a knit top from Katherine Tilton.

”v8817”

Vogue 8815 – a peplum top, how useful.

”v8815”

Vogue 8821 – straight front and swirling back, a rare pattern that can be seen better in a photo than a diagram.

”v8821”

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Some interesting layers

Vogue 8804. A new ‘Chanel’ style jacket pattern with couture instructions from Claire Shaeffer is sure to generate interest.

”v8804”

Very Easy Vogue 8819 – an interesting cut, effective in stripes. Looks like a shape that may be good on larger hips. Make it in a stable knit, to support those bias cut sections.

”v8819”

Vogue 8820 – light summer/ evening shrugs from Elizabeth Gillett.
Have you got a standard Little Black Dress that you wish was more interesting ? One of these cover-ups could be just the thing.

”v8820”

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Big Designer Bags – round or flat ?

Vogue 1311 – from Koos – photo shows that what’s made as a cylinder shape falls into a ‘sphere’ in use.

”v1311”

Vogue 8823 – many variants on flat bag shapes, from Marcy Tilton.

”v8823”

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Now which will I be picking out for my delight this summer. . . 😀

Pity it’s difficult to wear a jacket over flounces, and I really don’t feel warm enough in our UK ‘summer’ to manage without a jacket very often.

So perhaps I need to look for a jacket with flounces. . .

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Patterns available May 2012

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April issue Vogue patterns – dresses

May 12, 2012

Some of the new season Vogues are a joy for people who’re fascinated by how patterns work.

The last few pattern issues have been mainly sheath and vintage dresses. I know those shapes are current but I don’t wear them myself and have difficulty working up any interest. Don’t see many people round here wearing them either, even though this is a young university suburb. Many short skirts, leggings and sweaters, but not dresses. Perhaps it’s different at corporate offices or parties in a big city.

I’m also becoming interested in flounces – though only in moderation.

Anyway, this set of Vogues has so much I want to mention this post got very long. So I’ve made 2 sections, this one on dresses, and another on separates, jackets and bags.

Yes these are dresses, but ‘interesting’ ones, not just sheaths (which are a very Classic style 😀 )

The most common current dress shapes are :
– close fitted sheath,
– vintage 50s – fitted bodice and big skirt,
– classic shirt-waist.

These patterns add :
– shift,
– tent-triangle,
– drapes, swathes, flounces.

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Shift dresses, some with colour blocking

Very Easy Vogue 8805

”v8805”

Very Easy Vogue 8806 – similar but with set in sleeves, different yoke placement, and a hood. I can see myself in this as a top or tunic.

”8806”

Vogue 1300 – a simple elegant flounced shift from DKNY, another possibility for a top. And another I might wear myself.

”v1300”

Tent shape

Now this is more for me 😀

Vogue 1301 – fascinating options from Koos. Could be a thigh length tunic.

”v1301”

Very Easy Vogue 8807 – a simpler version swirling from a yoke. Another I think could make a good top or tunic.

”v8807”

Drapes and flounces from designers

Vogue 1304 – lots of shaping interest from Lialia. If you’ve got the right body to go inside it 😀

”v1304”

Vogue 1302 – close swathes from Kay Unger. Again lovely if you’ve got the shape for it, but not something I could wear myself.

”v1302”

Vogue 1305 – oh joy, something really interesting from Lialia. Not for me to wear, but understanding how it works as a pattern gives me great pleasure. Are the two versions actually the same dress with 2 different neck openings ?

”v1305”

Wow, a pattern that actually looks better on a body than in a line diagram.
But another style that leaves nowhere for a less than perfect shape to hide.

Vogue 8813 – drapes from Marcy Tilton.

”v8813”

Well, hiding bodies maybe, but Vogue recommends this for the pear shaped. Hmm, thanks but no thanks. I like crafters’ smocks, but wouldn’t feel flattered in this – though I can imagine people I know who have a different body shape and would love this.

Are these separates or a colour blocked dress ?

Vogue 1310 – more elegance, in bias lines from Chado Ralph Rucci.

”v1310”

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Not much I would wear myself, but great pattern interest and pleasure.

My second post, about new patterns for separates, has styles I’ll be more likely to wear.

Which do you enjoy ?

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Patterns available May 2012

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Peplum jacket

February 11, 2012

The main new shape for the coming season is the peplum, as picked out by UK Vogue. “It’s spring’s big silhouette story” – literally.

Not a jacket with any old waist seam, but a shape with emphasis below the waist.

”vogue-peplun”
UK Vogue February 2012 : designers Yves Saint-Laurent, Jason Wu, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

For more photos, see the ‘Cristobal Method’ section of the Style.com/ US Vogue Spring Trends.

Most patterns with a waist seam are flat and fitted below the waist, but these have a bigger shape.
Which (if any !) do you think would be more flattering on your body ?

Only a couple of pattern shapes with a peplum as a big style element : flared or with an emphasised hip curve. And with less emphasis than the stiffened designer extreme on the right, which most people would only wear for special occasions.

Gathers and up-down pleats are other possibilities for a bigger peplum, but I didn’t find them in current patterns. If you know a little about pattern making, it’s easy enough to make your own versions.
Use the above-waist part of a jacket pattern with waist seam, and combine with :
Gathers : a hip+ length of fabric.
Pleats : the top of a pleated skirt pattern with released pleats. Or play around with making your own pleats in a length of fabric.

Here are some emphasised versions which are wearable for everyday.

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Slight flare

Burda 7292 (with skirt and vest)

”burda-7292”

Burda 7401

”burda-7401”

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Full short flare

Burda 7495 (with dress)

”burda-7495”

Vogue 8739 (with dress, skirt, pants)

”v8739”

And a lovely one with raised waist from Chado Ralph Rucci, Vogue 1269 (with dress). Good if you do want the emphasised styling.

”v1269”

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Full long flare

McCall’s 6442

”m6442”

Vogue 8465 (choice of fitted or flared below waist, hip emphasis can be balanced with big collar)

”v8465”

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Strong hip curve

Vogue 1136 is a vintage pattern with interesting horizontal tucks (with dress)

”v1136”

Vogue 8601

”v8601”

Vogue 8627

”v8627”

I saw an attractive padded parka with this waist-to-hip shape the other day.

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Style.com/ US Vogue picks out a bare midriff as another type of waist emphasis in the coming season.
See the ‘Ab Fab’ section of their Spring Trend Reports.

”midriff” designer No.21

Basically a matching bra and skirt, or sometimes pants. Waistline at natural waist, rarely lower. A style that would only be important for somewhere with a warmer climate than we have in the UK !

– —

Have not managed to come to clear conclusions about which body shapes an emphasised peplum would look good on.

Though I do know the flouncy ones are not for me. I’m different sizes above and below the waist and have a noticeable waist, so I like a waist seam as an easy route to good fit. But I prefer a style that’s sleek over the hips – that’s not a body area I need to emphasise. Several patterns for flatter styles. Vogue is good place to look.

I suspect the emphasised shapes are best for people who are looking for ‘essence of waistline’.
People who like girly styles will love the flounces.
And a few of these patterns are definitely challenges for dressmaking skills !

I enjoy a peplum as a style element.
Does this sort of feature fit in with your personal style ?
Would a flat peplum or flare below your waist be best for your body shape ?

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Patterns and links available February 2012

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To get to main blog – click on red header.

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Sports Luxe fleeces and hoodies

December 17, 2011

I wrote a previous post about the current Sports Luxe style, with some patterns for ‘designer’ sweatshirts.
How about some designer style for your fleeces and hoodies 😀

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Pullover Tops

Cutting Line 2 x 4.

”cuttingline2x4”

Great Copy Yukon Pullover

”great-copy-yukon”

Great Copy Cascade Mountain pullover

”great-copy-cascade-mountain”

Jalie 2212 half-zip fleece pullover

”jalie2212fleece”

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Jackets

Christine Johnson Travel Trio Two jacket.

”cj-travel-trio-2-hoodie”

Hot Patterns Classix Nouveau Sportive Skirt Suit.

”hp-sportive”

StyleARC Maggie jacket

”stylearc-maggie”

Jalie 2795 zip-front hoodie

”jalie2795hoodie”

From the Big4 there’s new Butterick 5698.

”b5698”

McCall’s 5538 and McCall’s 5252 are both yoked styles for pullovers and jackets with hoodie options. And McCall’s 4261 is for a classic gym/ sports wardrobe.

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Something a little more unusual

Shapes Four Good Measure top
(One pattern piece, with one shoulder seam and one side seam.)

”shapes-4-good-measure”

Shapes Nine Lives vest

”shapes-9-lives”

– – –

Interesting. I often don’t pick patterns for raglan styles as I don’t wear them myself. This time I wasn’t deliberately avoiding them, as I think of them as classic for the sports style. But I haven’t found many.

If you’re still dubious about this style : YouLookFab has a new post about ‘loungewear‘ including sweat pants and hoodies.

Use high quality fabrics and trims for a casual Sports Luxe look. Or a modern shine/ sheer/ sequin fabric for a party version of the style. What is your favourite way of feeling and looking relaxed 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available December 2011

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