Sewingplums

Changing from an open fronted design to a closed one looks as if it would be easy – just remove the button band.
But there are some important things to check !
– can you get your head through the neck opening ? – see below.
– can you get into the garment ? (links to advice below)

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Removing the overlap

Removing an opening is fairly easy :

Assuming a front opening :
(If you’re starting from a pattern with a separate front band you’ll have to join the pattern pieces – overlap the seam allowances.)

Mark the centre front line (not the edge fold line) on the pattern (it should be printed on).

(I haven’t yet conquered high image quality, but hope the photos make the point.)

Trace the pattern to this line.
or
Fold the pattern on the line.

Add a note on the pattern, to remind you to place this edge on the fold of fabric.

Hey presto !

Though actually it’s essential to check the neck opening and underarm ease before cutting out.

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Size of neckline opening :

Can you get your head through the resulting neckline neck opening ?

Measure your head. This is not your hat size, but your head measured loosely over hair, ears and nose. This is the size your neck opening needs to be for you to get it over your head. If you want to protect your hair-do or make-up, add an inch or two more.

On the front and back pattern pieces, draw in the neckline and shoulder seam stitching lines. This is easy to do with a French Curve which has 5/8″ (1.5 cm) marked along the curved edge.

Measure the stitching line on the front and back patterns. Use the edge of a tape measure. Remember not to measure across seam allowances.

Then
(back neck stitching line length + front neck stitching line length) times two
is the length of the neckline opening.

Compare this with your head size.

For example, on my fitting sloper, the back neck stitching line measures :
3-1/8″
The front neck stitching line measures :
4-5/8″
So half of neckline is :
3-1/8 + 4-5/8 = 7-3/4″
And the complete neckline stitching line length is :
7-3/4 x 2 = 15-1/2″

My head measures 25″ (long hair up back of big head). So, if I want to use my fitting sloper as the basis for a pullover pattern, I need to make the neck opening much larger !

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Changing the neckline

If the pattern neckline is not big enough for you, there are many things you can do.

To keep the same shape of neckline, lower the stitching line an 1/8″ (3 mm) at a time, until the opening is big enough.

Or redraw the front neckline to a V or scoop neck, or widen the neckline at the shoulders to a boat neck.
It’s easiest to change neckline shape if you retain the shoulder point (where neck line and shoulder seam stitching lines cross). Then you can alter the front without having to alter the back to match.

Or add a neckline slit, front or back. Or a half-length closable opening, such as an exposed zip or henley/polo button placket.
Or transfer the neckline from another pattern.

I’ve taken several classes with Shannon Gifford at Pattern Review. So I’ve learned to trace my patterns. If you’re doing that anyway, making small pattern changes takes little extra effort.

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Edge finish

Whatever neckline finishing treatment you use, make sure to lengthen it to match the new neckline.

Making a facing pattern

It’s easy to make your own facing patterns. Draw a line 2-3″ (5-7.5 cm) from the stitching line. That is the outer edge cutting line of your facing pattern.

If narrow facings flip out for you, use the 3″ / 7.5 cm width. For me, this happens with wider necklines.

Lengthening a collar

If the pattern has a collar, you’ll have to alter that to match the new neckline.

On the body pattern pieces, measure the neck stitching line from Centre Back to collar attachment point on the front.
On the (half) collar pattern, measure the neckline stitching line.
Calculate the difference between the two.
This is the amount you need to change your collar (you measured half the body pattern, so it’s the amount to change half the collar pattern).

On a straight collar, alter at centre back.

These collar templates have a choice of lengths marked at centre back.

With a curved collar, mark the position of the shoulder seam. Then slash and spread, or slide, by the amount needed. You probably need to spread more at the outer edge of a curved collar, so it will lie in the same way as the original.

If you want to test your new collar pattern before cutting fabric, cut it out in kitchen roll paper. This has much the same firmness as interfaced fabric, and sticks to clothing without needing to pin it in place.

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There are some more important questions about turning a pattern with a full-length opening into a pullover top :
– can you get it on over your shoulders/bust ? I’ve got so much to say on that, I made it a separate post.
– is there enough ease at bust or hip level to be comfortable ? That’s also covered in that post.
And here’s a post on ease in general.

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Links available November 2009

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If you had to pick only one top pattern, to make everything except skirts and pants, what would it be ?

This question is inspired by Rusty Bensussen’s book “Making a Complete Wardrobe from 4 Basic Patterns” published in 1987. It’s not a book I would recommend whole heartedly. There are some odd ideas – for example using the same top pattern without any size changes for a shirt, a jacket, and a coat – just by changing the fabric and length. I wonder if any inexperienced sewer has tried that, and found themselves with too much interfering bulk at the underarm when they tried to wear even two of the garments together, let alone shirt + jacket + coat. Well, Bensussen’s top pattern is very oversized. So perhaps that is less problem than it would be with a fitted armhole.

The same top pattern used without size changes for both an evening dress and a coat. . . aargh. This clearly illustrates the great difference of opinion about what clothes should be like, between now and when this book was written.

There are some blind spots in Bensussen’s technique descriptions (both pattern making and sewing), which could confuse a beginner. But on the positive side, this book introduces simple changes which give a different garment from the same starting point. And that is something I would like to explore.

Following the book, from one top pattern I need to make patterns for : pullover top, open-front shirt, untailored unlined jacket, untailored unlined coat, vest, dress, evening dress.

Permitted changes are necklines and sleeve cuffs, front openings, and length. And I’m going to remove one limit. I am going to use different sizes for different purposes.

It would be possible to choose a similar pattern with modern proportions and follow Bensussen’s styles quite closely. But here I’m going to show how easily it can be done from other patterns. As my starting point I choose McCall’s 5664 (discontinued).

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Here are the options.

Pullover Top
closed front, collarless
Here is a post on converting from open to closed front.

Open-front Shirt
open all way down front

2018 : I now have a group of 4 posts about pattern making for front openings :
1. zip, button band
1b. adding extras to a front band
2. combined facing to front edge and neckline
2b. adding to a front-neckline facing.
These methods could also be used for changing from one type of placket to another, such as changing from a button placket to a zip, or changing between an integral button band, a separate button band, and a facing.

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Vest
sleeveless, collarless, open-front, add facings or full lining.

The starting point pattern isn’t a layering top. So a vest might need to be one size larger to add ease for comfort.

This drapey style wouldn’t be a good pattern to use for a fur / quilted / upholstery fabric vest. I think it would be best in a less stiff fabrication. For a rich fabric, velour might be okay.

Untailored Jacket
open front, collarless, no cuffs, add facings

As this pattern has a modern fitted armhole, I would need to make some changes so the jacket would fit comfortably over the shirt. Going up one size would be a simple answer. That isn’t an ideal solution, there are some things that need to be checked. And if you’ve altered your starting pattern for a good fit, you won’t be able just to trace off a larger size.

It would be a good idea to make this jacket collarless and cuffless, to remove the problems of wearing shirt, jacket and coat together and all with the same collar and cuff style.

I think I would also break the rules a bit here, and remove the fullness at the sleeve head, so the jacket could be worn easily under a coat.

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Untailored Coat
at least two sizes larger, knee length, full length sleeves, no cuffs

I might widen the collar by 1/2 to 1 inch, to give it more emphasis on a larger garment.

Dress
sashed, short sleeved, knee length

Evening Dress
sashed, scoop neck, floor length

This could be sleeveless. I would probably make it with long sleeves, as the places round here where formal events are held have minimal heating.

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Much to my surprise, it is actually possible to do this quite easily. What an interesting exercise.

Bensussen focusses on making many different types of garment from one pattern. Burda WOF magazine takes a different approach. They don’t change the general category of garment but change its style. There’s a good example in the October 09 issue. They make 4 very different jackets from one simple straight pattern, using changes in trim and pockets.

Chanel style jacket : patch pockets, braid trim.
Party coat : bow belt, inseam pockets, trumpet sleeves.
Safari style jacket : collar and cuffs, epaulets, bellows pockets.
Sporty blouson jacket : hidden placket closure, welt pockets, knit bands.
(Another sporty option would be a hoodie with exposed zip at centre front and kangaroo pockets.)

For more pocket variations there’s Diane Ericson’s pattern for 60 pockets. That could take a while to work through 😀

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This restyling game can be played from many other starting points. Your best choice depends on your body shape and personal style.
People with square shoulders might prefer raglan or drop shoulders.
People who aren’t pear shaped could use a straight sided basic style, such as a classic shirt.
Those who look better with some garment shaping might start from a classic darted blouse, or a basic shoulder princess style.
More suggestions for starter patterns in this post.

Do you prefer a softer or a crisper effect ?
Does the thought of thinking up ways of making the garments all look different fill you with glee ?
Or does the prospect of having so many similar clothes make you shudder with horror 😀

But hey, once you get the hang of how to do the simplest of pattern alterations, one basic pattern can give you an amazing range of possibilities.

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Post originally written and pattern available October 2009

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