Fast Jackets

Posted January 8, 2011 by sewingplums
Categories: speedy sewing

Has the Stitchers’ Guild jackets sew along made it onto your list of Resolutions ?

Most people who hear the word ‘jacket’ immediately assume lengthy hours of advanced sewing skills are essential. Well, there are sewers who can make a tailored/ structured jacket in a month. And good for them.

But many jacket patterns don’t involve tailoring. They’re ‘dressmaker’ styles with no lining which need little more skill than making a top – often much less skill than making a shirt with band collar and proper sleeve placket. As my fabric stash consists mainly of miles of quilting cottons, I need to make casual jackets and shirt-jackets to use some of it up !

So, what about making some jackets really quickly ?
How about a jacket a day 😀

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There are some jacket patterns which can be made in a few hours. Just the thing if you get to the end of a month and find you haven’t made anything at all 😀

I’ve already listed the Big 4 speedy jacket patterns which claim to take only a couple of hours sewing time. Three patterns for knits. For wovens, there are jackets all the way from casual cascade to formal notched collar. Even two quick outerwear jackets.

Since that post, McCall’s have added another 1-hour knit jackets pattern – McCall’s 6208.

”m6208”

There are also a few jackets among the speedy wardrobe patterns..

Make all those, to get you well on the way to a dozen jackets.

What about patterns from independent designers ? They rarely claim how long their patterns take to sew, but there are a few.

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Textile Studio often do give sewing times for their simple stylish patterns. There are a couple of jackets (originally designed by Loes Hinse).

Capri jacket : 2-1/2 hours sewing time.

”tscapri”

Shawl Collar jacket – also 2-1/2 hours.

I have the Florence jacket, said to take 2 hours to sew. Discontinued but still available from The Sewing Place.

”tsflorence”

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CNT patterns also have a couple of timed jacket patterns.

One, no. 2401, is even called ‘Start after breakfast finish before lunch’ (though personally if I was matching stripes at the raglan seams I think I would take a bit longer than that. . .)

”cntbreakfast”

And they say their ‘A Little Somethin’ jacket’ no. 2501 is a 3-hour project. Slightly dropped shoulders, shawl collar.

”cntlittlesomething”

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Silhouette patterns don’t give specific sewing times on their site, but the instructions often suggest how many sessions you need. I have one quick one – no. 85 Sweater Wrap says it can be made in one session.

”silhsweaterwrap”

It isn’t obvious from the photo or line diagram, but this is a fun circular shape with added sleeves. Could be made without the sleeves, as a wrap vest. (Styling assumes it’s made with a serger, the seams show so need a good finish.)

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Yvonne Porcella’s Cardigan Jacket from Project Sewing Workshop. Claims to be the ‘easiest jacket ever made’. Not so much so I suspect if you’re tempted to embellish 😀

”porcella”

(P.S. I now have this pattern. Yes, very easy if you know what you’re doing. But it would be polite to say the instructions are confused. No line diagrams to clarify the style options, nor suggested fabric layouts etc. Definitely not for beginners or for people who like clear instructions. If you only have 3 hours for a project, you’ll use them all on trying to understand this pattern.)

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There are some minimal DIY patterns available online. I’ve decided in general not to review online patterns. But I can’t resist mentioning this one.

Watch Shirley Adams show how to make a jacket without using a pattern at all, and only 2 seams – in her Bog coat video. Make a fleece jacket in 10 minutes.

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MacPhee Workshop patterns don’t give specific sewing times, but her patterns focus on quick techniques.

In particular, there are several jackets in the ‘It’s Magic’ section which have only one pattern piece. Her ‘Magic Coat’ no. 150 is a tidied-up version of the bog-coat. As is no. 154, ‘Night and Day’.

There’s also the ‘World’s Easiest Parka’ with 2 pattern pieces, in the Coats and Jackets section.

I would refer to these patterns more often, but the diagrams are so tiny they aren’t worth reproducing.

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There are other Big 4 patterns which aren’t quite so quick, but don’t require complex skills. Though beware that most Very Easy Vogue patterns would be ranked Intermediate in difficulty by other people !

Look at the Butterick jackets section. There are about a dozen jackets labelled ‘Fast & Easy’

Or the Vogue jackets section. There are more than a dozen labelled ‘Very Easy Vogue’.

And there are about a dozen more jackets in the Very Easy Vogue Separates section.

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What about going the other way and advancing your skills, but still on relatively quick projects. Perhaps working toward ultimate jacket making skills by doing some tailoring.

For quick tailoring, there’s the McCall’s 6172 Palmer-Pletsch blazer pattern, supported by the Palmer-Alto book ‘Jackets for Real People’. (P.S. There’s now also a DVD, Jackets for Real People.) This jacket is interfaced with fusibles. They claim it takes 8 hours sewing time (after practice !). Three lengths so you can get it right for your own proportions.

”m6172”

Tailored styles are not right for me. I’d be more likely to advance my skills by making a trench coat. Such as Silhouette patterns no. 1925 Barbara’s Trench. The instructions say that can be made in 3 sessions. Hah ! For me that would be more like 3 months 😀

”silhbarbaratrench”

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These are just a few examples of what you could do if you want to go a more complex, though still quite quick, jacket making route. But there are so many quick and easy patterns, there’s no need to despair that you need to improve your sewing skills and take lots of time if you want to make several jackets in one year. And you have only got to make one jacket in the year to join the sew-along !

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Patterns and links available January 2011

Do you find it helpful to make detailed plans ?

Posted December 31, 2010 by sewingplums
Categories: personal style

What sewing are you doing over the holidays ? Following holiday freedoms, I ‘went as the spirit moved’ and surprised myself by trying free motion sewing for the first time. Not what I was expecting to do. So that opens up all sorts of possibilities. . .

Meanwhile. . . back to thinking about New Year’s Resolutions.

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Resolutions about what to make

Plans have the opposite effect on me than what life coaches insist they will. I make plans for fun, it’s something I’m good at. Making them does clarify my ideas and what’s important to me. But if I try actually to follow detailed plans they usually bring me to a halt instead of motivating me.

I’m best working in a general direction rather than with a specific plan.

Even so, I keep changing my general resolutions for the year.
Learn to sew knits – oh that’s so last week.
Join in the jackets sew along. Hmm, what about all that fitting.
Do some Sewing With A Plan. Wardrobe planning is an excellent idea, but I am not at my best under time pressure. And I am better when following a general inspiration (colours, fabrics, learning ever more about what suits my shape and style), rather than setting a specific number of garments before ever starting anything.

Though I am very happy that other people do make storyboards and follow detailed SWAP plans. And take the time and trouble to tell us what they’re doing. It’s fascinating and inspiring and thought provoking, and gives a great deal of pleasure.

At the moment I think it’s best for me to sew individual items. Just check they will make at least one whole outfit with clothes I already have.

After a couple of years of reading and thinking about discussions at Stitchers Guild, I think I’ve got a sufficiently good idea of what are the right colours, fabrics, shapes and styles for me, not to go too wildly astray.

Well, perhaps I need to allow for two clothes personalities ! One day I’m going for the minimalism of Loes Hinse Textile Studio, the next I’m loving the cheery wild patchwork of Pavelka. . . At least it’s only two – er, I think. . . If you really do like wearing a different style every day, then you might enjoy the book ‘I love your style’ by Amanda Brooks.

So one of my resolutions for this year is just to put the pedal to the metal at least once a day. Or find a notion. One little sewing thing. Nothing more specific. I’ll probably follow a general idea of what to do next, but that Big Plan sometimes changes several times a day. . . (Hmm – this morning Nancy Erickson’s sweater set pattern arrived, with her booklet on knits – make one of everything in the booklet. And the latest issue of La Mia Boutique pattern magazine – a padded vest, a drapey vest, a bolero vest. . . So that’s at least two more Grand Plans for today 😀 Perhaps I need to cut down on my sources of inspiration.)

It definitely wouldn’t be a good idea for me to make a resolution which says I’ll stick to one plan of what I’m going to make 😀

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Resolutions about tools and techniques

If you’re inspired by other people’s Resolutions, there’s a good discussion thread at Stitchers Guild. Including resolutions not to do something !

Some people resolve to make certain sorts of clothes, perhaps following a wardrobe plan or SWAP or sew along. Or some home dec.

As I’ve said, that’s not right for me at the moment.

Some people resolve to sew from what they’ve already got, fabric stash or pattern stash.

I do try to do that anyway, but don’t limit myself, as fabrics that are ‘right’ for me don’t come up all that often. And I’m a pattern geek. Collecting them is one of my treats. And it isn’t at the level of a dangerous or harmful addiction 😀

Some people resolve about techniques or tools, such as learning to use a serger or embroidery machine, or make welt pockets.

The main resolution I’m going for is one of these. I’ve realised a mighty thing that stops me sewing is I have to make so many fit adjustments to a commercial pattern. And that’s something I don’t enjoy doing at all. For some reason it’s taken on the overwhelming character of something impossible to deal with.

I’m currently aiming to make a sleeveless knit shell. And I’ve listed half a dozen changes that need to be made to any commercial pattern (forward neck, sloping narrow shoulders, deep armhole, wide back, small bust, short waist, high hip). Why on earth, you might say, is anyone taking that much trouble over a sleeveless knit shell. . . Well, if I don’t, I may as well go on ‘making do’ with all the peculiar strains and sags of RTW.

So I resolve to put more effort into getting Bernina My Label to fit. If that does work then, even if it doesn’t give perfect results, it should be easier to get a usable starting point.

Hey, wait a minute. I’m assessing all these patterns and software outputs by comparing them with a reasonably good personal sloper. One thing that can be said about trying to use pattern making software – I’m learning a lot about the special features of my own body. In fact, I don’t know why I’m hung up on thinking I ‘ought’ to use someone else’s pattern. So I’ll also work more on my personal slopers, which I seem to able to adjust more easily than I can get software to fit me ! If BML doesn’t work out, then I’d be better off learning more about pattern making and adapting my own sloper, rather than changing commercial patterns.

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Sticking to your plans

And, once you’ve decided what to make or do, what is your own preferred way of keeping going and finishing a project ? In SWAP, many people greatly value the companionship and encouragement of belonging to a discussion thread. But there are also excellent sewers who appear at the end of SWAP with a beautiful wardrobe, after saying and showing very little.

Goodness, I hadn’t realised how much there is of ‘know yourself’ in all this ! To get the best out of our sewing we don’t only need to know what to make, what colours, shapes and styles are best for ourselves and our lifestyle. There’s also how we do it :
– what tools and techniques, fabrics and embellishments we enjoy using.
– whether we like to try new techniques or relax in the familiar.
– what gets us started : whether we like a clear prior plan, a defined end point we’re aiming for, or to have a general guide but nothing specific, or to wander where we will, to follow the spirit of the moment.
– whether we like to finish one project before starting the next, or have several in progress at the same time.
– how we keep ourselves motivated, what helps us to finish our projects.

Or perhaps you get the biggest fun out of starting up. Does it matter if you don’t finish ? If you could get rid of any guilt, would you happily just make UFOs ? Call them your samples 😀 How much are you willing to pay per hour of fun time – does that cover the cost of half used fabric and notions ? What might help you to throw unfinished things away with glee ? Each one may have started as a dream and ended as a learning experience. Perhaps do the same as embroiderers and art quilters. They don’t expect everything they try to work out well. Store a piece of as far as you got, with notes, in a swatch book for reference. How about a resolution not to finish anything you start 😀 (I tend to be a bit contrary, perhaps that would get me to finish things. . .)

Remember the best way of training is not to chivvy trainees about mistakes, but to reward them when they do something right. Do you need a reward system for finishing projects. Or a reward for learning from what you didn’t finish, for getting something positive out of not finishing. What would be a reward for you ? Perhaps you would like a resolution about rewards 😀

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Sewing is a hobby – what makes it the best stress-free pleasure time for you 😀

Do you actually enjoy the sewing, or do you really prefer reading and thinking and stroking fabrics 😀

I hope you all have a Happy New Year and an enjoyable 2011, whatever it is that keeps you doing whatever you like best !

Holiday Greetings and Gifts

Posted December 24, 2010 by sewingplums
Categories: sundry messages

In this season of gift giving, a holiday question :
If you received an unlimited dream wardrobe of any clothes of your choice – bought, made for you, made by yourself – what would you choose ?

what styles ? crisp or soft ? fitted or swirling ? which designers if any ?
what textures ? gabardine, crepe, knit, tweed, leather, lace, silk denim, charmeuse. . . ?
what would be really important for you ?

For me – how about an infinite supply of alpaca fleece made to my own colour palette 😀

And a set of perfectly fitting slopers, made for me without any effort on my part by some magical genius. . .

And easy real reality access to a quality fabric shop with the same taste as me. . . (I’m allowed an infinite budget don’t forget, perhaps I’d better have a larger house too 😀 )

Sometimes I have so many ideas that I would like someone to make clothes for me. Though I really wouldn’t want to give up that surge of grinning glee when I get to the ‘Hey I made this’ stage of a project 😀

– – –

”wintergate”

Best Wishes for your Holiday, and for all your sewing plans for 2011.

And thanks for all your interest, which makes this rewarding to do.
Your gift to me : on Wednesday my blog received its 50,000 th visitor since it started – wow !! 😀

Peek at a Preview

Posted December 18, 2010 by sewingplums
Categories: current fashion

The UK Elle January issue has arrived – preview of the preview for next season. . .

Colours – head to toe white or very light colours.
Or colour blocking of bright colours. (They’ve been telling us to do colour blocking for several seasons now, but I haven’t yet seen anyone dressed this way.)

Shapes – trouser suits (jacket and pants in the same fabric).
UK Elle are going for high waisted wide legged pants (definitely not flattering for me).
Cuffed short shorts worn with a tailored jacket.
Low calf or longer skirts. (People round here do wear these, but it’s a university area so they wear them whether it’s fashionable or not 😀 ).
Transparent fabric up to the neck over a very un-sexy looking all-covered-up bra.

Not much different from the Style.com preview I posted earlier.
(Baby prams/ strollers are competitive fashion items round here – I have seen a chartreuse one 😀 )

Meanwhile, more urgent than fashion – Happy Holiday preparations to all.