Sewingplums

UK Vogue catwalk edit for Winter 2013 says skirts will be a focus this season. Especially 3 styles – pencil, pleats, full and flouncy.

Nearly all worn below knee length. At lower knee cap or lower calf for most people. Mid-calf if you have thin legs.

– – –

Pencil

McCall’s 3830 classic pattern.

At calf length, you need a hem vent for ease of walking. In the early 20c, they weren’t allowed to show their legs, so made slim skirts without vents – rightly called ‘hobble’ skirts !

Written sewalong from Tuppence Ha’penny (for pencil skirts in general, not this specific pattern).

Lots of video sewalongs listed in my post on Skirts – video sewalongs.

Pencil skirts are styled by UK Vogue this season especially with sweater knit tops and flat shoes.
Here’s a post from YouLookFab about styling a longer skirt , though on a tall person with good shoulders.
And here she is on tops to wear untucked with pencil skirts.

– – –

Pleats

All around pleats such as Butterick 5756

supplement to instructions, from Fashion Sewing Blog

Or similar McCall’s 6706 if you’d like a shorter style.

If you have difficulty getting your head round how pleating works, here’s a YouTube on pleats.

These pleated skirts can be worn short and flirty, or long. With a long top, or waist definition.

– – –

Full and flouncy

Long again, worn with a fitted top and waist definition. Most of these are fitted at the waist and flare out. Not many with gathered fullness.

Mad Men style – I was a teenager in the 50s and I can tell you it wasn’t a glamorous time. But the skirts are lovely !

Here’s a basic pattern, Vogue 8749.

Though a true New Look skirt is much fuller than this. One point of Dior’s design was to celebrate the end of wartime shortages. So look for a skirt pattern that uses 5 or 6 yards of fabric !

Or test your creativity by making McCall’s 6712 a bit longer.

– – –

For these flared skirts, add sewing a curved hem to your skills.

Very narrow hem – tutorial from Allison.

Narrow hem – many web tutorials, I like the clear photos in this one from Victory patterns.

Yes, 3 lines of stitching – trying to get away with only 2 doesn’t work well !

Wide hem – actually a bit more difficult.
Use similar technique to the narrow double fold in the tutorial from Victory.
Only sew the first row of stitching, as a first turning in/ gathering line.
Fold up hem without guide sewing line,
and press the hem into place, pressing out the fullness.
Best if hand sewn.
Lots of hem tips in general, including on wider hems, from SewMamaSew.

(P.S. Vildy suggests using a hem facing if you want a wide curved hem.)

– – –

Lantern skirt

And – though this isn’t recommended by UK Vogue !
How about a ‘lantern’ skirt for those of us with wide hips and trim ankles.

Wall London

Make as a ‘balloon’ skirt (see my post) using the underskirt method, but low calf length.

Check if you need to add a hem slit so you can walk.
A slit at CB is probably best for most people. Make an open slit if you like to show your legs, an overlapping vent if you want it to be unnoticed when you’re standing still. Trace the vent from another skirt pattern, if you’re not comfortable with just adding to the seam allowances.

– – –

Might this season convert you to skirt wearing !

Long skirts are best for my leg shape, and I love swirling, so I’m tempted 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available August 2013

= = =

Another outfit from UK In Style magazine’s suggestions for summer weddings.
With emphasis on combining very different contrasts in one outfit.

Very different from the softly styled muted colouring kimono in my previous post.

A straight thigh length jacket with seam interest.
Made in a solid fabric (white for this summer’s theme), perhaps with a shiny texture or leather.


UK In Style July 2013

For the jacket pattern, try Kwik Sew 3732.

Not clear from either image, but both jacket and pattern have large hip patch pockets.

The outfit jacket also has matching seam interest across the sleeves, easy to add.
And 3/4 sleeves – add to taste.

–

Outfit styling

All this season’s textures and patterns in one outfit !
brilliant styling !

big contrasts in :
surface – leather or lace
print – soft or hard edged

Textures :
lace shirt
smooth leather or shine jacket
metallic and suede shoes
snake skin bag
floaty scarf.

Patterns :
hard edged simple pattern scarf
floral pants
snake skin bag
the lace shirt adds another subtle curved pattern

Combinations of solid flat, segmented mosaic (the snake skin), background-foreground (lace and scarf), or detailed painterly shapes.

All integrated through the use of colour. Mainly white and warm, with a touch of complementary cool blue.

This outfit is styled in clear colours.
If your colouring is more muted, choose a print with muted pastel background for the pants, and repeat the background colour for the jacket and shirt.

– – –

Whew, this sort of integration of opposites in styling takes talent or a lot of experimenting.

I can’t do this or wear this level of variety myself, but I’m fascinated by outfits like this.
Would you like to try it ?

(And P.S. – if you prefer to wear a dress to a wedding, here are many suggestions on what to wear to a wedding from Imogen Lamport at Inside-Out Style.)

– – –

Pattern available July 2013

= = =