Sewingplums

Want to make it easier to co-ordinate your clothes ? You might start from a wardrobe pattern.
The matching up of silhouettes, proportions, necklines, and armholes so you can wear the items together has been done for you. You only need to think about fabric : the colours, prints, and textures which are best for you.

Even in 2024 there are many wardrobe patterns available from the ‘Big 4’ pattern sources, though fewer than there used to be.

Indie pattern designers tend not to offer them. I used to enjoy the Central Park pattern from the long discontinued Park Bench company.

Easy to copy – see these posts on learning to sew while making a starter wardrobe :
skirt and pants can be made by complete beginners,
tops, vests, jacket can be made by advancing beginners.

The wardrobe patterns below are just a selection from what is available.
I have aimed for ‘Core 4’ patterns that include a jacket, top, skirt and pants.
You would be able to combine the 4 items into 6 different outfits. The 4 two-item ones in this diagram, plus two 3-item outfits made by adding the jacket to the two on the right :

(example pattern oop)

Every added item increases the number of possible outfits. See the final section below, on making more than one of each item in your wardrobe pattern.

I have not listed wardrobe patterns which only include sleeveless tops because:
– I am dubious those jackets would be comfortable over sleeved tops, the armholes and sleeves may be too tight. Which means they are not good in a small capsule, as you can’t include tops which do have sleeves into your grouping.
– I think tops with sleeves offer more outfit options for more lifestyle situations (and it’s often easy to make short sleeved or sleeveless versions of sleeved top patterns).
– I don’t wear sleeveless tops myself (I don’t live in a hot climate !).

Basic adaptations

– You will need to add a simple skirt to some of these patterns.
Use an elastic-waist skirt made from rectangles (if you need a pattern see Cris Wood Sews One Hour skirt and choose your own length).
Or, if you’re willing to do some pattern work, see this post for how to make a skirt pattern from a pants pattern.

– Perhaps divide a garment pattern with a waist seam into a separate bodice which can be lengthened into a top, and a skirt or pants.

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The patterns

I did think of sorting these patterns into groups with the same difficulty rating.
But I find the difficulty ratings rather odd.
I think the Butterick and Vogue items labelled ‘Easy’ are actually intermediate, while the New Look and Simplicity items labelled ‘Average’ look easier than the Butterick and Vogue items labeled ‘Easy’ – ah well.
The same company now owns all these pattern lines. The pattern size numbers have long been the same for all these pattern sources, but the sewing difficulty ratings have not been standardised. (It would cause major disruption as the existing ratings are printed on all envelopes as well as on the website.)
Make your own judgement about whether you can sew the style elements included 😀

Patterns for Misses sizes

Butterick 6258

Butterick 6294

Butterick 6389, length options provided for you.

Butterick 6495

Butterick 6599, colour blocking possibilities, not a skirt but 2 lengths of pants. There are many options for adding closures to an edge-to-edge jacket, such as button loops, clasps, frogs.

McCall’s 7331 by Nancy Zieman

McCall’s 7635 by Khalia Ali

McCall’s 8163 by Nancy Zieman

New Look 6217

New Look 6351

New Look 6735

Simplicity 8177 by Mimi G

Simplicity 8924

Vogue 1959 by Marcy Tilton, rated ‘Advanced’

Vogue 9191
The layers are ponchos which you could wear anything under – though beware the poncho with wrist cuffs, perhaps omit them. So I have included this pattern even though the top is sleeveless.

Vogue 9286
The jacket and tunic use many of the same pattern pieces, so one can’t be worn over the other. But they are over-sized, so you might make the tunic a size smaller – and perhaps taper the sleeves.

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Patterns for Women’s sizes

There are few wardrobe patterns for larger sizes, though in this more realistic world there are marvellous one- and two-item patterns in the Know Me range. But the presentation there is very repetitive, there aren’t as many different patterns as it looks.

Butterick 3039, various length options

McCall’s 7635 by Khalia Ali

McCall’s 8163 by Nancy Zieman

Simplicity 8177 by Mimi G

Simplicity 9269, a 3-item outfit

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Building up to a capsule

Do any of these patterns appeal as the starting point of a capsule for you ?

You will need more than one of each item in your pattern to make a capsule.
Many wardrobe planners suggest a 12-item capsule of 3 jackets, 3 tops, 3 skirts, 3 pants. Make one of the 3 in your best dark neutral, one in your best medium neutral, and one in your best light.
But such a group of items may not suit your style. Here is a pdf on personalised wardrobe planning.

Do you want to make several versions of each item in your wardrobe pattern without doing any pattern changing ? Here is a post with suggestions for making repetitions more interesting – from about 1/3 of the way through.

Or are you happy to do a little easy pattern work to make the items more different ?
Many simple adaptations are possible, such as described in the post on Louise Cutting’s Anything But Ordinary capsule.
Or see the post on Make everything from one pattern – which in that case meant a pattern for a single garment, not a wardrobe pattern ! You don’t need to start from a jumpsuit pattern to make easy changes to top and pants patterns.

Of course you can simply try out your wardrobe pattern items with other garments you already have in your closet, until you find enough to make a more varied capsule 😀

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Enjoy your dreaming, planning, making, and wearing
♥️ 👍 ♥️ ♥️ 👍 ♥️ ♥️ 👍 ♥️

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Few indie pattern designers offer patterns which make a complete outfit, let alone a wardrobe.
What some of them do is produce a book with several patterns. Many of these books are not oriented to wardrobe building – individual patterns which aren’t specifically designed to co-ordinate, or no jacket included. For example the marvellous Japanese pattern books, some of them now in English. But there are some pattern books which do include at least a ‘Core 4’ of jacket, top, skirt, pants.

I’ve written about pattern books before. Here are some of the posts :
Wardrobe pattern books : casuals
Wardrobe pattern books : dresses
Wardrobe pattern books : other possibilities

Publishers are usually unhelpful about these books. In most cases the information about what is included has been collated by other people after the book was published, it isn’t in the book publicity. So before the book was published there was no way of knowing what’s in it. There are so many pattern books now, I want to know more than the designer’s name and enthusiastic reviews of the photos, before I decide to buy.

Here are some of the ‘Core 4’ books which have appeared since my earlier posts. Print books unless mentioned. No ‘instant use’ patterns. Some have traceable pattern sheets, some have download pdf patterns. These books don’t focus on wardrobe building, but do provide the patterns for it.

The first books in this list have good sewing instructions intended to teach, but none of these books are for early beginners without help.

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Sew Over It pattern’s City Break capsule has 5 download patterns in an e-book with good photo instructions, sized for bust 33″-45″.
Jacket, 2 tops/ dresses, skirt, pants. Make all the variations and you would be well supplied with clothes for a weekend away.
Line drawings in this post, which has suggestions for extending these patterns to a wardrobe, and adding more jackets.
(2018) SOI now has a second wardrobe e-book, link in that post.

Workbook from Merchant & Mills patterns has patterns for jacket, 3 tops/dresses, skirt, pants.
Photos on this pinterest page (except shawl which is in the Sewing Book).
Patterns don’t overlap on paper pattern sheets, but are printed on both sides so you do have to trace them, sized for bust 32” – 42”.
Line diagram instructions, intended to teach sewing skills beyond the ones in their Sewing Book.

I’ve already written a post on Alison Smith’s big Dressmaking book.
That post shows line diagrams of the 12 base patterns for jackets, tops, dresses, skirts, pants. There are 32 variations (clear instructions for pattern altering). Re-scale or individual download patterns, sized for bust 32” – 46”.
Patterns are fitted classics which look very drab in the fabrics chosen, but the photo instructions are excellent if you can get past that and use your favourite fabrics. If you made them all I think you would have good intermediate level sewing skills. You would also learn some simple pattern altering by making the variations. And this is the only one of these books which has a section on fit.

There is now a shorter version, Dressmaking step by step – the same 12 patterns and 19 of the variations, suitable for advanced beginners.
The focus of these books is on good sewing skills and simple pattern alterations.

2018 – Named Clothing patterns now have a wardrobe pattern book, Breaking the Pattern, which also claims to teach sewing. Gets good reviews, if you wear their chic modern minimalism. This page shows all the styles included.

Magic Pattern Book by Amy Barickman of Indygo Junction patterns.
Print and Kindle. 6 base patterns, line diagrams on front cover of book : 2 jacket/coats, 2 tops/dresses, skirt, accessories. 6 variations of each. Finished garment measures given, which vary with garment.
Add RTW jeans and leggings, there’s no pattern for pants – none by Indygo Junction either.
Patterns on CD with the print book, download with the Kindle version, both print-at-home pdfs. Separate pattern for each variation, no pattern making needed.
The first 15% of the book is an intro for beginners. Adequate instructions with a few diagrams.
The focus of the book is on showing how you can vary a pattern to make other styles.

The Maker’s Atelier by Frances Tobin, a gifted marketer with an expensive line of minimalist patterns.
Photos of book pattern styles in this review.
Paper patterns printed on both sides, so tracing needed, bust 32- 46.
Modern classics – have you already got patterns for notch collar jacket, big tee, cowl drape top, bow neck top, wrap skirt, slim skirt, slim pants, and tote? Though there are many ideas here for variations.
Instructions build advanced beginner skills but not for complete beginners.
General opinion from reviewers – these garments are so simple they need to be made in quality fabrics to look good.

The next pattern books have minimal instructions – tell you what to do, but little about how to do it. Unless you’ve made these style elements before, you need a good reference tome for help.

Lotta Jansdotter Everyday style
5 clothes patterns – for jacket, 2 tops/dresses, skirt, pants. Plus 4 bags. Length variations only.
Paper pattern sheets with overlapping patterns need tracing. Helpful diagrams of where to find the pieces needed. Sized for bust 32” – 43”.

Line diagrams are just outlines, no style elements represented on them, so it’s no help to show them here. The garments are :
Jacket / coat : raglan sleeve, edge-to-edge front opening, cut-on front facing, side-seam pockets, unlined.
Sleeveless top / dress : gathers at centre front, bias binding finish to neck and armhole edges.
Sleeved top / tunic / kaftan : front darts, fitted sleeves or cap sleeves (1/8” hem round armhole opening), neckline facings, optional front neckline slit, optional square patch pockets.
Skirt : bias cut, ribbon waist support, side seam invisible zip, optional square patch pockets.
Pants / shorts : tapered, cropped, cut-on waistband – flat at front, elastic at back, optional belt loops.
(I only discovered the style elements by puzzling through the instructions.)

These are simple styles, and the sewing section is only about 20% of the book. Minimal instructions – not for beginners. The other 80% is style photos. This is a style book not a sewing book. It is good for showing how you can make very different-looking garments just by changing lengths and fabrics.

Burda Wardrobe Essentials
Not sure who these are essential for, an inner city high flyer perhaps – no tee, jeans, cardigan.
Photos and line diagrams of the 20 patterns on this pinterest board.
That board has the individual pattern numbers. If you like any of the styles, I suggest buying the individual download pattern from burdastyle.com.
Different patterns have different size ranges, mostly for bust 30” – 40”.

Print and Kindle. I’m not rushing to recommend this book. Traceable very overlapping paper pattern sheets with the print book. Add seam allowances.
Avoid the Kindle version in which the patterns are next to unusable – you just get downloads of the traceable sheets. For several styles you have to assemble 3 of the 16-page pattern sheets and then find and trace the pattern pieces.

Hmm do you want this garment so much. . .

5 levels of sewing difficulty. Instructions a little fuller than Burda Style magazine, but not as good as Burda tissue patterns, not enough to learn the skills needed. And no index or cross-referencing. Leading up to a double welt pocket in an inset corner with minimal instructions – eek.
Not much thought given to the needs of the reader. Can you tell I was rather peeved with the Kindle version !

I’d better end on a positive note about Burda Style. They have several pattern books which I haven’t felt kindly towards.
But what they do have is download pattern collections, and most include at least a Core 4. These patterns have appeared in Burda Style magazine and have the usual minimal sewing instructions, so you need to know what you are doing. But a collection has a generous number of patterns with individual downloads. I mentioned them in my post about wardrobe patterns. Current collections here.

P.S. November – If you read French, that opens up many other possibilities, but I haven’t seen these so can’t comment.
Dressing idéal , from I Am patterns (photos of simple styles here).
Ma garde-robe a coudre pour toute l’année by Charlotte Auzou.
Ma Garde-Robe chic et intemporelle from Pauline Alice patterns, line diagrams on front cover.
Vestiaire scandinave by Annabel Benilan.

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I’m a pattern nerd who loves reading pattern instructions and I like real books for reference (prefer to use Kindle only for fiction), so pattern books are one of my favourite items 😀

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Books and links available October 2017

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Last week I wrote about building a wardrobe using patterns for single items (that’s here).

But surely a good wardrobe pattern should cover the full ‘Core 4’ of jacket, top, skirt, pants, and so meet all your pattern needs. With no need to worry about co-ordination of style elements, as that’s all done for you.

Here are a few snippets on sources of wardrobe patterns. Plus the simplest ways to use a ‘Core 4’ pattern in wardrobe planning.

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Core 4 wardrobe patterns

Sadly, in these days of reducing costs many ‘co-ordinates’ patterns are rather skimpy in content – only 2 pieces, an outfit not a wardrobe.

And nearly all wardrobe patterns include only a sleeveless top with a jacket. There are very few woven-fabric wardrobe patterns with an overlayer sized to wear over an underlayer with long sleeves. But I almost always wear a long sleeved blouse, so I do keep going on about this.
I need to increase jacket armhole and sleeve size to allow for under-layers. Use the sleeve from a larger size – at least 1″/3cm larger at biceps. And trace the armhole to match. (Best of course to make a muslin to try this out !) This adaptation also makes the jacket more flexible for wearing with clothes not made from the same pattern.

These are all tissue patterns :
Simplicity/New Look is a good source of Core 4 wardrobe patterns in a range of styles.
Butterick Lifestyle Wardrobes also has a generous selection.
Vogue Five Easy Pieces offer a few casual options.
Vogue Wardrobe patterns need a bit more difficult sewing skills.
McCall’s Coordinates include a few wardrobes.

For more options, you can expand wardrobe patterns which include fewer items, so they provide all 4 core garments (jacket, top, pants, skirt) – if you’re willing to make a top or skirt from a dress pattern by adding cutting lines, or add on the simplest of patternless elastic-waist skirts.

Burda Style download patterns take a different approach. But most of their pattern collections could be called wardrobe patterns. These are collections of patterns in the same style, and many include a Core 4.
The usual Burda magazine minimal sewing instructions, so you do need to know what you are doing. But a collection has a generous number of patterns, each with individual download. Good value if you want to make several in a collection. Otherwise, the links are provided for individual patterns. Here are the current collections.

There used to be marvellous ‘casual chic’ wardrobe patterns from Adri at Vogue patterns. Many still wearable today. Most are not easy makes – they use sophisticated techniques for getting a good finish on single-layer garments. For pattern numbers to search for, see this pinterest board (click on the image if the number is not clear).

Another famous line of wardrobe patterns was published by McCall’s and called New York New York. Very trendy at the time. Here’s a good pinterest board for them. Mostly less wearable now, to my eye, but worth looking at for ideas. I still have quite a good collection of them 😀

Indie pattern designers don’t offer wardrobe patterns, from what I’ve seen.
A few of them have 2-3 item patterns for making an outfit but not a wardrobe, such as : Cutting Line, Dana Marie, Folkwear, How to do fashion,
Sewing Workshop, Simple Sew, Style Arc.
Wardrobe by Me has a post on making a casual wardrobe using 5 of her patterns (a Core 4 and cami).
Some indie designers do publish pattern books – post on them planned.
I devise my own ‘indie wardrobe patterns’ by combining 4 – 6 single-garment patterns from one designer on a pinterest board.

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Painless wardrobe planning ?

What’s the easiest way to build a complete wardrobe using one Core 4 pattern ?

For a 12-item wardrobe like those suggested by Nancy Nix-Rice, make :
– a Core 4 in a dark neutral.
– a second Core 4 in a light neutral.
– a couple of tops (the same pattern) in an accent colour.
– top and skirt in a print combining all 3 colours.

If you love colour, then remember that ‘neutral’ doesn’t necessarily mean drab, it just means a colour that you can wear with everything. If it would make you happy, you can have a Core 4 in shocking pink, a Core 4 in chartreuse, and more tops in gold or purple 😀

Use different fabrics, textures and trims to add variety.
Some wardrobe planners suggest making a whole Core 4 from the same fabric. Yes that makes things even easier, but I would not be at all happy wearing them. I prefer variations in tone and texture.
If you do like this idea of a “6 yard wardrobe” from the same fabric, see this post on Kate Mathew’s travel wardrobes for some suggestions.

Of course if you know enough simple pattern altering to change lengths or neckline shapes, or add seams for colour blocking, then you can increase the variety you get out of your base patterns.
Here’s a video from Sew Over It with many ideas people have had for re-styling the patterns in their City-Break e-book with download patterns. They now have a second e-book, Work to Weekend, with simple variations included.
The ideas in that video can be used on other similar patterns.
Or explore Diane Ericson’s pattern for 60 pockets.
But such additions may move the project away from the painless !

For a painless-planning weekend 6-pack, use the core pattern and choose your most flattering colours to make :
– a Core 4 in a neutral.
– a couple more tops in accent colours : one in casual fabric, one in dressy fabric.

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Good Luck with progress on wardrobe co-ordination !

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Originally written October 2017, links updated October 2018.

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