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Clothing Values

March 21, 2010

I’m currently enjoying working through ‘Dress Smart’ by Anne Fenner and Sandi Bruns.

Yes, it is a workbook, full of questionnaires and exercises, as well as insights. Takes time and thought.
Expensive (not good value) and mainly focussed on work clothes, but a lot of interesting ideas and clarifications which work in a wider context.

What I’m particularly interested in is that it adds an extra dimension to the mix of deciding what are the best clothes for you, not just :
– your colouring,
– your body shape,
– your lifestyle,
– your personal style,
but also :
– your clothing values.
This doesn’t mean how much your clothes cost, or how much they cost per wear, but how important you think different aspects of clothing are.

This is somewhat related to personal style (classic, romantic, casual, dramatic, etc.), but I’m finding it greatly clarifies things for me to see this as separate.

They identify 7 values. (I’ve put ‘ ‘ round a couple of labels as I think their meaning isn’t obvious.)

– – –

Economic
How much money and time you’re willing to invest in your clothes and their care.
For sewers I think this includes how much and what type of effort we want to put into making our clothes (time, complexity of skill we enjoy using, time to gain new skills, etc.).

‘Theoretical’
Are you ‘interested in clothes’ – how they’re made and designed, how fashion works, the history – as an interest separate from being fashionable or enjoying sewing. This I realise is very important to me. A big ‘aha’.
Or ‘concept’ clothes, clothes which express an idea ?

Physical Comfort
I got the highest possible score on this !

Aesthetic
Beauty and quality.

Body awareness
How important it is to you that your clothes enhance your body.

Social
Social acceptability, fitting in, belonging to a group with a particular dress code, being fashionable.

‘Political’
How important it is to you to be “the best”, or to enhance your power by how you dress.
My ‘least important’ score here 😀

– – –

Creativity
I think we sewers have another important value which probably doesn’t occur to people who are studying clothes buying habits : how much we want opportunities for individual creativity.
And what form that creativity takes – whether our pleasure comes simply from making things, or using the equipment, choosing fabrics/ patterns/ techniques, making our own styles or patterns, or designing our own embellishments, etc.

– – –

And all these ‘values’ can be reasons why we sew, as well as just because we enjoy sewing. I’ve realised the reason I’m so uncomfortable with buying RTW is that most of it goes against my clothing values.

Very intriguing – this has helped me to understand important ways I differ from some people who otherwise seem very similar to me. Often I dismiss some issues that other people are greatly concerned about. Or what I think is important are things which other people aren’t bothered by.

Categories: personal style

Comments: 4 Comments

Choosing and Changing Necklines

February 20, 2010

This post has been updated in 2 sections :
Choosing necklines
Changing a pattern neckline

–

Do you know what is the best neckline for you ? There’s much to consider. There’s the shape of neckline that enhances your upper body. There’s the shape of neckline that flatters your face. And the widths and depths of neckline that go best with your proportions. All that before you even think about pattern making techniques for changing a neckline.

– – –

The neckline shape that flatters your body :

If you search ‘choose neckline’ you’ll find a lot of guidance, especially about the best necklines for your body shape, your combination of neck, shoulders and bust. These are some of the links I like, and which give different perspectives :

[The links I gave in early 2010 are now very out of date. Search ‘neckline” to get a useful selection.]

(P.S. see also Amy Herzog’s ‘Fit to Flatter’ tutorial on necklines.)

– – –

What about flattering your face :

To think about this, you need to be aware of the shape of your facial features – your jaw, lips, nose, eyes, eyebrows – are the edge lines straight or curved ?

‘The Triumph of Individual Style’ is an expensive beautiful book with many reproduction art works of women. The aim is to show that, whatever your shape, someone has found it worth celebrating. There’s an interesting section on facial features, pp. 16 – 21.

Once you’ve decided whether your features are straight or curved, there’s confliciting advice about what to do with this information. Some people say the best neckline echoes the shape of your features. Others say the best neckline counteracts your features, so use curved shapes if you have an angular face, angular ones if you’re curved. Perhaps the choice between these attitudes depends on personal style, rather than there being one answer which is right for everybody.

The shapes of your face might influence for example whether you look better in a V-neckline with straight edges or with a slightly curved shape.

So do some experimenting. Cut neckline shapes from kitchen towel and try them out.

‘The Triumph of Individual Style’ says you can wear any shape of neckline, so long as it balances your face with your body. Though they recommend echoing your jawline.

Personally I agree with going for shapes that echo the curves of my features. Necklines with sharp angles seem out-of-kilter with my face. But then I prefer softer curved looks anyway. And also, I’m old enough to have ‘jowls’. I find my best neckline is the shape that echoes what my jawline shape used to be 😀

– – –

Width of neckline :

Gale Grigg Hazen has an ingenious suggestion about measuring necklines, in her book “Fantastic Fit for Every Body”. Use a 6 inch x 24 inch transparent (quilters) ruler to measure how wide your neck is, and how far your straps are from your centre line.

”gghneck” (GGH-FFEB p.170)

Use these measures to check pattern necklines : wide enough for your neck ? too wide to cover your straps ?

‘The Triumph of Individual Style’ says your neckline or collar opening should be wider than the widest part of your face. For most of us that means we aren’t at our best in a jewel neckline which is close fitting round the neck.

– – –

Depth and balance :

‘The Triumph of Individual Style’ has some fascinating suggestions about flattering neckline depths, pp. 49 – 55. They suggest two ‘balance points’, for high necklines and low.

All their measurements need to be made vertical and straight, with a ruler. Not over the bumps, as you would using a tape measure.

High neckline

Measure vertically from the widest part of your face to the tip of your chin. Your widest point could be at your forehead, your check bones, or somewhere on your jaw.

I’m 3-1/2 inches vertical from cheek bone to tip of chin.

”upperpt”

Measure that distance down from the neck end of your shoulder.
Across from there is the most flattering point for your upper neckline.

On me this comes at the level of my collar bones. I’ve long known that a neckline closely fitting my neck doesn’t look good on me.

Low neckline

Measure vertically from your hairline to the tip of your chin.
Or, if you always wear a hair style that substantially covers your forehead, measure down from your hair.

I have a long face, and on me this is 8 inches.

”lowerpt”

Wear something that you don’t mind sticking a pin into or marking.

Measure the length of your face down from the tip of your chin, On me that comes near my bust point.
Mark that level, which is said to be the most flattering level for lower necklines.

You need to convert this to a measure that can be compared with a pattern. So measure from the neck end of your shoulder down to the pin or marker, this time using a tape measure on your body. Because of collar bones and bust, that is likely to be longer than the vertical measure down from your chin.

I’ve got prominent collar bones, and on me this measurement is 11 inches.

If this point comes low on you, you need to think what this means for you personally. With my long head, the low neckline point comes so low it would need a lot of double sided tape to be at all decent, and would be much more revealing than suits my style. But that doesn’t mean I can’t emphasise necklines to this level. It explains why I like wearing long necklaces, and deep V necks on layering tops and jackets, which are all coming down to that level.

So if you need modesty you could have a more obvious neckline going down to this point, filled to a higher level by something less obvious. And I’m trying out emphasising this level using embellishment, a corsage, or a necklace pendant.

(P.S. Now I know about these balance points, I keep spotting celebrity examples. Wear your neckline below the low balance point if you want all the attention to be on your cleavage !
I think the necklines of most patterns are developed on models with long necks.)

Cut test necklines from kitchen towel, or drape scarves, and see what you think. Image consultant suppliers sell sets of basic neckline shapes made from calico. You can try a much wider variety if you make your own !

– – –

To change a pattern neckline :

To change a neckline, first draw in the stitching lines on the existing pattern. It’s easy to do this with a transparent French Curve with 5/8 inch marked round the curved edge. These lines show the position of the shoulder seam and the finished neckline edge.

”nkptcircle”

The crucial point to identify is where the neck edge meets the shoulder seam, sometimes called the neck point.

So long as you draw your new front finished neckline through this point, you won’t have to alter the back neckline (or vice versa).

”v-neck”

If you want a wider or narrower neckline, draw in the new finished neckline position. Then measure how far the new neckline is from the old neck point, along the shoulder seam. Use this measure to find where to start the new back neckline.

”lowneckarrow”

To add the new cutting line :
– make some marks 5/8 inch from the stitching line.
The ends of both a tape measure and a seam gauge are 5/8 inch.

”cutlinemark”

– Then join the marks into a smooth curve – easy to do with a French Curve.

”cutline2”

Changing the neckline of a wrap top/ dress is a bit more complex. Here’s a tutorial.

P.S. There’s now a Craftsy class by Suzy Furrer on drafting necklines.

– – –

Collars :

Of course, getting the best neckline shape is essential, but only the first step. Then there are collars, bias drapes, bows, ruffles, whatever. But presumably these additions follow the same principle – that they are best when they coordinate with the lines, shapes, and proportions of our bodies.

For example, big collars need to be in proportion to our overall build. (I’ve just been attracted by a large collar jacket pattern, but fortunately thought of checking my personal croquis. A deep collar wider than my shoulders, on a short jacket, would make me look like a heffalump. . .) ‘The Triumph of Individual Style’ has illustrations showing how to adapt classic collar shapes to high and low neckline balance points. And Darlene Miller’s book ‘Your shape, your clothes and you’, has illustrations suggesting curved collars go with curved bodies and straight with straight.

(P.S. There’s a class on drafting simple collars at eSewingWorkshop.

There’s now a Craftsy class by Suzy Furrer on drafting collars.)

Lots of possibilities to think about and try.

– – –

Links available February 2010

– – –

To get to main blog, click on red header.

Categories: pattern making for clothes, personal style

Comments: 10 Comments

More on Advice to Ignore

February 6, 2010

Elizabeth commented on my previous post :
“No, no, I’m going to ignore you and slavishly follow some magazine editor’s tips for skinny urban women with a professional job.

But seriously — the points you raise are not always easy to figure out. If they were, we would have done it by now, no?”

– – –

I agree that finding your best colours, shapes, and styles is not easy or quick. Once I started thinking about this I had a whole lot to say !

Styling books are a big industry because they’re selling a dream – that someone will wave a magic wand and it will all be obvious and easy and we will look marvellous. And I think many stylists are, very humanly, best at giving advice to people in similar circumstances. In the same way that fashion journalists focus on the showrooms of the fashion capitals of the world. (You only have to look at the people actually walking along the key fashion streets of Paris, Milan, London, New York, to realise that most people don’t dress like fashion magazines at all 😀 )

Perhaps some people don’t have as many difficulties with recognising themselves in the style books as I do. But I suspect many do.

I admit I’ve got a large collection of style books bought in hope. . . and yes of course, they suggest a whole lot of interesting things to try which I might not have thought of myself. But it isn’t the case that everything they suggest is right for everybody. If I did follow exactly what they say, I would often be wearing the wrong colours, the wrong shapes, and the wrong styles. Fortunately I know enough about myself and my life usually to recognise when I would be unhappy with what they suggest.

– – –

I’m sure anyone who’s read a styling book has their own examples, but here is some of the advice that goes wrong for me :

Colour :
I’ve never managed to identify my colour category from a book. More than 20 years ago I had a personal session with an inspiring Color Me Beautiful consultant. She identified me as ‘Clear Spring’. But Clear Springs are assigned the dreaded black. The consultant sorted out about half the Clear Spring colours which were marvellous on me, and the others which were best avoided. A personal consultation using all the big colour swatches is definitely needed for that, and a gifted expert. (Though she did recommend coral as my accent colour. She appears in one of the CMB books as the example of Soft Autumn colouring.)

My previously auburn tinged dark hair has become light heathered grey. My skin is still warm toned, so I’m a mixture of warm and cool tones which doesn’t fit anyone’s categories. (And I have a very low opinion of the recent London published CMB books.)

I have now chosen paint chips which match my skin and eye tones, plus a lock of hair. They’re subtle colours which rarely appear in fabrics. But I always compare fabric samples with them, to check what ‘goes’ and what ‘jars’ (often surprises).

Shape :
Standing, my hips are 2 sizes larger than my top. When I sit down they spread another 4 inches. Definitely a pear. I’ve already gone on at length about the odd advice given to the pear-shaped in the Lucky Shopping Manual.

Most stylists tell the pear shaped to wear shoulder pads so their shoulders are as wide as their hips. I would be wearing those 80s pads that were so wide you had to go through a door sideways (see some astonishing examples in re-runs of Murder She Wrote). I am more interested in advice on how to make my hips look as small as my top. And sorry stylists, I know you all say everyone looks better in shoulder pads, but I never wear them. They’re just not my style. Hurrah for sewing – we can change the shoulder seams and darts of what we make so that clothes fall well from our shoulders whatever shape they may be.

Most stylists also tell pears to wear horizontal lines across our shoulders. I’ve always known that was wrong for me, but never understood why until I read Trinny and Susannah’s Body Shapes Bible. I’m a short waisted pear. Horizontal upper lines make us look even more squat. Horizontal upper lines are good on long-waisted pears. And T and S couldn’t find any short waisted pear celebrities to use as encouraging examples (the only body shape they failed with). Oh dear. I don’t think it is actually impossible for us to look good, I’ve managed it myself in the past. But it’s certainly a challenge !

Some stylists go into more detail about body shape with recommendations for specific body parts : long and short neck, wide and narrow shoulders, etc. The trouble is this makes for incompatibilities in what they advise. ‘The Triumph of Individual Style’ is a beautiful book full of fascinating insights. But most of the advice they give on one page is incompatible with what they say for me on the next page. . . Nancy Nix-Rice ‘Looking Good’ is another favourite book (very dated illustrations but covers the widest range of topics). About me she says :
To Broaden Narrow/ Sloping Shoulders : DO Select details (…) to maintain a horizontal shoulder emphasis.
To Lengthen a Short-Waisted Body : DON’T use horizontal bodice details.
Aaargh – Help !

I do try out the suggestions in style books. Darlene Miller’s ‘Your shape, your clothes and you’ has very detailed ideas. As usual, I don’t fit neatly into her scheme (my head, upper and lower body all meet different criteria !), but I do find her suggestions interesting. I use a personal croquis. Snoop shopping upsets me, as RTW fits me so badly. Instead I hold pattern and fashion magazine photos next to me in the mirror, as I wonder if they would look good on me. And I keep an eagle eye out for what flatters and what doesn’t.

Style :
I rarely feel comfortable with any of the personal styles in books, though some come close. In David Kibbe’s ‘Metamorphosis’ I’m a ‘Soft Classic’. Lots of good insights in the text. Then there’s a photo of someone styled this way, and she’s wearing a ‘Mother-of-the Bride’ dress and picture hat. Oh dear. I would never want to look like that (even if I had been a mother-of-the-bride). From the other photos, I would guess Kibbe has difficulty with styling less exuberant people. I think Soft Classics are better catered for by Loes Hinse’s designs.

A lovely Color Me Beautiful consultant in the early 90s described me as a ‘Eurochic with Romantic accessories’, a heart warming phrase I still keep in mind. Eurochic is a concept you don’t see mentioned these days – a sort of elegant current casual. (It’s in Mary Spillane’s CMB book.) At the time Armani was super-fashionable. I don’t at all agree with one style book which says it’s impossible for casual to be chic, as one is precise and the other is don’t-care. That seems an oddly blinkered view. But that writer (Angela Marshall) is an extreme classic. She admits to having difficulty knowing what to wear at weekends. Though her expensive repetitive little book is the best at recognising personal style isn’t only clothes but also work, hobbies, manner, home, relationships. . . I think many designers and fashion magazines do recognise the need for high quality stylish relaxed clothes.

To identify my personal style, I notice what I wear consistently. I particularly enjoyed the style exercises in Brenda Kinsel’s ‘Fashion Makeover’. (The rest of the book isn’t right for me at all. No, I wouldn’t find it a treat to lounge by my pool waiting for a bevy of masseuses and chefs to give me an at home spa day. I won’t even have my hair and make-up done. But I did get insights from the style exercises !) I keep in mind long ago clothes which I remember with affection. (That velvet dress with a lace collar my mother made when I was 12, which I rapidly grew out of. Wouldn’t fit my active lifestyle, but I need touches of it as I loved it so much.) And I imagine myself wearing what appears in pattern and fashion magazines, and check if I would feel happy. I’ve made a list of ‘would love to wear’ patterns which have lasted beyond initial enthusiasm, and it’s not as short as I thought it would be.

– – –

I think the good style books guide personal exploration, rather than dictating. Such as Brenda Kinsel’s ‘Wardrobe Companion’. I also enjoy Garza and Lupo ‘Nothing to Wear’, a fun read. Mainly general encouragement, but then they fall in the trap of giving specific examples, which are all ‘urban cocktail’. Good for their clients in NYC no doubt, but not relevant to this suburb (even though estate agents describe us as ‘exciting and cosmopolitan’ now we have a Starbucks where the local radio host holds court 😀 ).

That seems to me a key problem for style books – this uneasy balance between general advice about exploring, which works for everyone, and specific examples. I know I feel more secure when writers give specific visual examples. I feel I know more clearly what they mean by their words. And I feel more confident when I know the alternatives to choose between. But I usually don’t recognise myself in any of the specific examples. So my desire for confidence that I understand the message actually backfires.

I think there are some things you can sort out for yourself fairly painlessly. My list of Personal Style questions is possible food for thought.

I do still occasionally buy styling books, but I’m looking for tips rather than expecting them to solve my problems. I now find it more helpful to follow discussions at Stitchers Guild, which are full of useful comment and inspirational wardrobes from a wide variety of real people. I’m getting much more clear about what is right for me, by thinking out my answers to the style questions people ask there.

This may be an unending process, as fashion styles (and we) change. I’m still far from being confident I’ll get it right every time, but I’m a lot closer than I was a year ago. . .

Sadly, there isn’t any way of avoiding doing the work of trying things out. Or of avoiding big mistakes – try to make them in cheap fabric ! I once bought a red fake fur coat. I love red, and fur coats, and I loved myself in the coat. But I only ever wore it in public once. I’m a quiet and private person !

This trying out doesn’t have to be a miserable process. It’s like fitting. We take one small step at a time, and see if we’ve made things better or worse – and it works out in the end. Every move in a better direction is a big plus 😀

– – –

P.S. Training to be a Style Consultant is lengthy and expensive. There are even college textbooks on it (see Fairchild Books on Image Management). So people in the business reoognise this process isn’t all that easy.

– – –

Links available February 2010

= = =

Categories: body shape, personal style

Comments: 6 Comments

Advice to ignore

January 30, 2010

I’m looking at the new styles for spring/ summer, and it seems that anything goes.
UK Elle (February 2010) :
“who do you want to be this season ? the s/s 2010 catwalks offer the chance to define your style with the strongest and most diverse looks we’ve seen for years.”
and Nancy Erickson (January 2010 newsletter) :
“For nearly everything that is “out of style” you’ll find a designer somewhere, someplace showing just that item.”

It’s a good season for making your own decisions.
So what are the rules for ignoring stylists’ advice 😀

– – –

1.  Ignore specific recommendations about colour :
For example I look terrible in black, for others the culprit is white.  Instead know your own best colours.  Unless you are clearly one of the basic 4 seasons, you need a more detailed scheme, or a personal one. When I was younger I fit into the Color Me Beautiful 12 categories, though I needed expert help to find the right one.  Now the contrasts in my colouring have softened and slightly muted, I don’t fit easily into any category, and find my best colours by knowing my skin/ eyes/ hair tones, and by trial and error.

Know at least your best darker neutral, best lighter neutral, a favourite accent colour, and another accent for a bit of contrast. What a waste to wear a colour that you don’t look your best in.

And check and revise your colours every decade (including how you re-colour your hair if you do), as your skin and hair tones change.

2.  Ignore recommendations about specific shapes of garments :
For example small busted people are not flattered by close fitting tops, though many other people look good in them. 

Instead know what flatters your body shape. Either do this by trial and error, or start from someone’s categories of body shape and what they suggest for each. (Or sketch on a croquis for the advanced. Sadly snoop shopping only works well for people who’re a fairly average shape.) Unless you fall easily into one of the basic 4-5 body shapes, as used by Vogue patterns or the Palmer-Pletsch newsletter for example, find a more detailed system, such as Trinny and Susannah’s Body Shapes. (I found this very helpful, but some people find it infuriating.) 

I also need to know more body shape detail, as simple categories don’t include such things as sloping shoulders, high hips, relative length above and below the waist, or how your ‘around’ measurements are distributed from side-to-side or front-to-back. These can greatly affect what looks good on you. You learn this by trying to get commercial patterns to fit ! And take photos of yourself from the side as well as the back. . .

Again, revise your personal body shape knowledge and bra size at least every decade. During and after pregnancy, people need to check every few months.

3.  Ignore recommendations about specific types of garment :
e.g. Little Black Dress, or denim jeans. What clothes you need depends so much on your lifestyle and the requirements of your workplace.

Also ignore recommendations about specific numbers of garments: These too depend on lifestyle.  Just use these numbers to check for important gaps in your wardrobe.

Again review this every decade, or whenever you have a big lifestyle or job change.

4. Ignore recommendations about specific styles of garment :
I for example am very unhappy in a classic blazer, while my mother forbade blue jeans (not my colour, but guess what I wore when I left home 😀 ) Find your personal style. Here as well, there can be a ‘big 4’ of categories  –  such as classic, romantic, casual, fashion forward. I find I like a little of many styles, one of the reasons why I enjoy reading wardrobing advice !  Casual predominates in my wardrobe, but with touches of classic, chic, pretty, boho, current. . . generally quiet. I confess that Sporty, HipHop, Dramatic, Goth, and Lolita pass me by.

People also differ in whether we like to make big or small changes as we are finding our own style. And in how much we care about whether we fit in with the neighbours. And how to adapt our own style to fit in with another one if need be.

It’s also good to know the clothing code for your workplace, and how to adapt your own style to suit, as this may affect your income.

It’s not so important to check personal style every decade, as most people don’t change. But I know two people who’ve changed their style dramatically, so you might give it some thought.

5. Ignore recommendations about specific styles for a specific age :
“No woman over 40 should. . .” is a phrase I think should be banned. Yes, adjust your wardrobe because of changes in colouring, body shape, mobility, lifestyle. But not just because you’re ‘old’.

Stop wearing tight pants because you no longer have a shapely butt, not because you’re 50. (I grew up at a time when women only wore pants for sport, and never tight enough to ‘display themselves’. But I’ve never had a good backside to display anyway.)

If you’ve got good legs, then celebrate them. There were a couple of grannies in last year’s ‘Strictly Come Dancing’ (US ‘Dancing with the Stars’). They showed the full length of their legs to great effect. While some of the younger ones were embarrassed about it. So if you’ve still got shapely legs, and it’s your style to show them, then good for you.

If you are a quirky style of person, you should still be wearing quirky clothes when you’re 70, not just when you were 17. If you’re a refined style of person, you should be wearing refined clothes when you’re 17, not just when you’re 70. Yes of course, as the years pass, adjust what you wear so it is flattering to your current body and self and adapts to changes in lifestyle. But don’t change it because you are ‘old’. How sad to restrict your life unnecessarily.

P.S. If you’re really convinced that you must dress dull as you get older, then have a look at Advanced Style.

The advantage of being young is that you can get away with being very unflatteringly dressed. At any age, focus on finding what is best for your colouring, shape and style. Pick from the recent patterns, and off you go 😀

– – –

Most wardrobe advice suggests a small collection of well coordinated garments. But even that isn’t to everyone’s taste. It’s just a good starting point if you want to be sure you have something to wear for all occasions, or if you’re trying a new style, or if you want a plan for what best to sew next.

I think the most important thing wardrobe plans do is stimulate thinking about what is best for us as individuals. To be our best we each need to know :
–  our best colours,
–  our body shape and what flatters it,
–  our lifestyle and what clothes are needed for it,
–  what our personal style is.

And there are some heart and head questions about specific garments :
–  do I love it ?
–  does it make me look and feel special ?
–  does it fit ?
–  is it in good condition ?
–  what else does it go with to make an outfit ?
–  could it play a major part in my life ?

Even though these comments are so general, some people will disagree with them ! Notice your disagreements, and what you dislike about a season’s new styles, as they give you strong hints about your own personal style. 
And of course you can ignore everything I say 😀

Categories: personal style

Comments: 6 Comments

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