Archive for the ‘style and planning’ category

« Sewingplums home page
« Older Entries

The ‘Embody’ book

April 5, 2025

Embody, by Jacqueline Cieslak
I’m a fan of books which tell you how to sew a capsule, so I’m surprised I haven’t looked at this one before, although it’s been available since 2021. It has reminded me what I expect such a book to include : what I think a ‘capsule’ is, and what is important about choosing the components of yours.

The book includes two hand knitting patterns (basic knit top layers, and shawl) and one download sewing pattern (make dress, tunic, top from the pattern by changing length). Users of these patterns need to be at least confident beginners.

The print book contains a one-use code for downloading A4 and A0 versions of the sewing pattern.
Errata in the print edition for the Deren knitting pattern are listed here.
There is a pdf download of the book including patterns, available from Ravelry.

–

Missing patterns

Beware that although there are many photos of a skirt and pants in the book, patterns for them are not included or mentioned.
Such patterns are easy to find.

There’s a very simple skirt (any size) at Cris Wood Sews. Or this Twosome skirt from her is more in the style of the Embody book.

The Elizabeth Suzann Bel skirt is a slightly more complex A-line skirt with waistband and in-seam pockets (up to 66″/168cm hips).

There are several pant patterns similar to the ones in the Embody book photos, such as
the Closet Core Pietra pants (up to 48″/122cm hip),
or the Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Work pants (up to 62″/168cm hip).

It’s easy to expand the size of a pant (or skirt) pattern with panel seams – which are those long straight seams down the front and back of the leg.
If you add 1/4″ (5mm) down each side of all 4 panel seams. you will add 2″/2cm to the size.
Add 1″/2.5cm down each side of all those seams and you will increase the size by 8″/20cm.
That would bring the Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Work pants up to fitting 70″/188cm hips.

You may also need to add length to the crotch extensions, the horizontal part of the crotch curve that goes under the torso.

As a cross between the skirt and pants patterns in the book, there’s the Peppermint big pocket skirt (up to 58″/148cm hip, but easy to add width down the centre of each pattern piece).

If you find elastic waists uncomfortable, you will have to make your bottom garments from knits, or with a true waistband and zipper.
Knits : In this basic pattern, Simplicity 9752, both skirt and pants are made from knits – hips up to 62″/158cm.
Waistband and zipper : Butterick 7002 – the skirt in this pattern has a CB zipper, transfer the instructions to the CB of the pants. Hips up to 52″/132cm.

–

Patterns included

The one sewing pattern in the Embody book is the Woolfork A-line dress/ top.
embody dress

The pattern is sized from 34″ to 68″ hips, 86-172cm. C cup bust darts, 3 body lengths and 3 fitted sleeve lengths. So there are 9 variations, but no other ‘hacks’ such as gathered sections, button bands, varied necklines or sleeves.
See these varied makes on Instagram.

Sewing techniques include a faced neckline, and French seams, which I prefer. Generally good clear sewing instructions with diagrams. I would finish the neckline after sewing the CF, CB and shoulder seams, when the part-made garment can still be laid nearly flat.

There are two hand knitting patterns in the Embody book :

knit diag
– Deren sweater/ cardigan/ vest – a basic boxy body shape with bust darts and fitted sleeves.

– Elsom shawl.
The knitting patterns are also available individually in the author’s store at Ravelry.

Deren uses stocking stitch and rib, the Elsom texture is more complex.

Both sweater and dress have deep scooped front necklines.

A substantial focus of the book is on instructions for changing the sweater/ cardigan/ vest knitting pattern to fit different body measurements – see all those dimensions on the above diagram.
No instructions for changing the fit of the dress/ top – she just tells you to look for on-line tutorials on adjusting cup size and bicep size.
The author is obviously a knitter 😀

You may have your own favourite Full Bust Adjustment method (see this post for some of what is involved).
The crux of doing an FBA is to add fabric in the middle of the pattern piece, not at the sides. Note that an important part of doing an FBA is changing the shape of the armhole, you do that automatically by opening a slit up to the armhole.

Here is good post from Maria Denmark on altering woven-fabric sleeve patterns to allow for full biceps without altering the armhole seam length.

–

Patterns for larger sizes

You may be pleased with this book if you have been searching in vain for patterns beyond the usual larger sizes.
The author herself sells larger size knitting patterns in her Ravelry shop.
Many indie sewing pattern lines have extended their size range, though usually up to smaller than the patterns in this book.

There are specialist sewing pattern lines :
Cashmerette patterns started by being more for larger body shapes with a defined waist. They have multiple cup sizes (C-D, E-F, G-H) and go up to 62″/158cm hip.

Muna and Broad patterns are more for a larger rectangle/oval body shape. They do not use cup sizes but instead mention directly the measurements that cup size is based on : whether full bust = upper chest +2″, +4″, or +6″. Hips are increasingly larger than bust, not the standard 2″/5cm larger over the entire size range, and go up to 72″/183cm. It’s worth getting to know where you fit in on their detailed size chart. M&B offer to grade larger if you need it.

There are several books on honouring a larger body with the clothing you choose, but I’m not familiar with them so don’t know how this book compares.

–

Capsule design

This is only a starter book on capsules. I found it disappointing as there are several features of making a capsule which are not mentioned. It is good to have a book with co-ordinated knitting and sewing patterns, and in such an extensive size range. Also with detailed instructions on changing the fit of basic knits. But I think there are better books on making a capsule.

When you only have a few garments, as in a capsule, you do need them to co-ordinate in shape and colour so they can all be worn interchangeably. The Embody book includes very little advice on co-ordination of shapes and proportions, as they are designed for you in the garments included. This is similar to using a Big 4 ‘wardrobe pattern’, which these days are called ‘co-ordinates’ as that is the main pay-off of using them. Except the Embody book is unusual in combining knitting with sewing.

You do also need to co-ordinate fabric colours and textures. Nothing about that here. She has gone for ‘natural’ colours, which happen to be my preference, but there’s no advice here for lovers of strong colours or bold patterns. The main texture differences are between plain weave fabrics and 2 textures of hand knit.
Posts, books and courses on wardrobe planning can be richer starting points for learning about the best colours, prints and textures for you (see Nancy Nix-Rice).

Also there’s nothing in this book about the general ‘capsule’ concept, such as what garment types you need for a complete capsule and how many garments you need of each type. Working from this book, your capsule would have dresses and tops, with knits to provide warm layers. So this could be a good secure starting point for a capsule. But if you have tops, a complete capsule also needs skirts and pants – as the author shows in her photos.

The usual suggested basis for a wardrobe is a ‘Core 4’ of top, layer, skirt and pants, see Nancy Nix-Rice above. She insists on something like a jacket for the layer, as she says everyone needs those central slimming vertical lines of an open jacket.
Stylist Judith Rasband used to spend her vacations on the back of her husband’s Harley, with everything she had with her in one pillion bag – so of course she was an expert on minimal wardrobing ! She suggested a ‘Core 5’ – layer, skirt, pants, and two (or 3) tops in different styles. You can get 8 different outfits out of 5 garments, 10 if you can wear the jacket without a top under. Or with 3 tops there are 12 outfits, 14 including jacket alone.
Of course you may need to adjust those suggestions to suit your own style. For example I only very rarely wear a skirt. And now I’m retired I rarely wear a jacket, but I do wear pullover layers and vests for warmth.

The Embody book includes one sewing pattern which can be used at various lengths to make dresses, tunics and tops. Which pattern would you choose if you were only allowed one pattern from which to make all your upper body garments ? Which one pattern has the style elements which honour and nurture you, mind, body and soul, both while making it and while wearing it ? It can be a challenge to find such a pattern ! especially if you’re someone who needs variety 😀 See this post for some discussion of this idea.

–

Hacking (changing a basic pattern)

Simple ‘hacks’ can make garments from the same starting point look substantially different. So there is the question of what guidance about variations is included. The main options in this book are one pattern which can be used for both tops and dresses, a common feature of many patterns. And for personalising the measurements of the knitwear. There is nothing here about making two garments starting from the same base pattern look very different by changing the style elements.

There are books on making a complete sewn capsule/wardrobe from a wider group of sewing patterns plus variations. These books do not focus on the design of a capsule, but do show how many variations you can make starting from one basic pattern.

There are many hack options in Sonya Philip’s Act of Sewing, a book which includes 4 full size paper patterns (two tops, skirt and pants up to 58″/148cm hip) plus many instructions for fitting (1/4 of the book) and for hacking (1/2 the book).

Or see Judy Kessinger of Fit Nice, who provides very basic top and pants patterns with no added style elements, plus books full of simple variations. Sizes up to 42″/108cm bust, 52″/132cm hip, though she does make suggestions about enlarging.

I often return to the following long out-of-print books which are also full of ideas for alterations from simple starting points :

Illustrated hassle-free make your own clothes book by Bordow and Rosenberg.
Patterns self drafted, easy boho styles of skirts, tops/dresses, and pants, elastic waists, any size. Assumes you are a complete beginner to sewing.

If you prefer separate sleeves (less wasteful of fabric) you might like to add the very easy Cris Wood Sews Start Here top, any size. I have a couple of posts on making it : Tops with straight edge neckline, Square armhole.
If you would like to extend your self-drafting, Cal Patch provides many easy guides at Creative Bug.

Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way by Kerstin Martensson.
4 full-size paper patterns included – for blouse, tee, elastic waist skirt and pants. Patterns have 90s proportions. Patterns only up to 48″/122cm hip, but the many suggested alterations are clearly marked on the main patterns, so it’s relatively easy to copy them onto your own pattern.
Kwik Sew patterns were famous for their good instructions. People have learned to sew from this book, though you do need to know the basics of using a machine, fabric and patterns, see the top half of this page.

Making a complete wardrobe from 4 basic patterns by Rusty Bensussen.
Diagram patterns for top, pants, 2 skirts. Patterns drawn on 1″/2.5cm gridded paper (detailed instructions) so they’re easy to enlarge by adding width strips in the centre of each piece. Both elastic and waistband+zipper waist finishes.
For drawing out the diagram patterns, use 1″ dot-and-cross paper. Or ‘quilters grid’ interfacing – available in US and European versions both of which are fusible and marked with 1″/2.5cm squares. The interfacing has the advantage you can mark out the pattern on it, then use it directly to sew up a test garment.
Styling in this book is very 80s but most ideas are generally applicable. Though don’t try making a top, jacket, and coat all from the same pattern with no size alterations, you won’t be comfortable wearing them together! Each layer needs to be at least 2″/5cm larger than the layer beneath it.
Sewing experience needed, or a ‘sewing bible’, see 70s editions of Readers Digest (more diagrams) or Vogue. Whew, they’re 50 years old so obviously don’t include some modern innovations, but they’re well worth looking at for quality basics.

I have several posts on hacking, both here (see the Altering Patterns section of this page) and at Aim for Quality. Perhaps start with these posts at AQ, on Variations and on Repetitions.

More recently, there are several pattern lines with the same purpose as those books (suggesting alterations from a simple start point), as mentioned in those hacking posts.

–

Finally

Perhaps start from this Embody book and then widen your options by using other sources.

Good Luck and enjoy working towards making a capsule, if that is a wardrobing approach that you feel will work well for you 😀

Sadly I do not feel enriched by having read this book, though I can imagine people who would be. It did not fill me with ideas about what to make.
I realise I have been enriched by it as it inspired this post, just not enriched in the way expected 😀
I do feel enriched by the pattern lines and books mentioned in this post, among many others.
And by the goal of searching for and using that special pattern.

Hopefully you are enriched by making clothes that are especially right for you ♥️ 👍 ♥️

= = = = =

Categories: co-ordinates, specific capsules

Comments: 2 Comments

Find your favourite outfit patterns

March 9, 2025

5 items
These are what I chose when a personal styling course asked me to pick my 5 favourite items. Worn with slim pants, which for me are a ‘background’ garment

I spend my time wearing over-sized pullover tops with slim pants, but I know few people share my love of this size or this style.
So I don’t expect many to agree with my personal basic capsule choices. But perhaps the decisions I went through will provide food for thought.

I do think many people could find it helpful to do the same thing as I have, to collect a small group of patterns that are best for you. If nothing else, it will clarify your style for you.
Even if you’re not a ‘uniform’ wearer as I am.
Perhaps choose one or less than a handful of patterns for each basic garment type that you wear.
Either make only these patterns, or use these patterns as a secure foundation for your wardrobe.

Although it’s not specifically relevant for many people, I give my own pattern group here as an example. Perhaps because my style is so far from ‘normcore’, it has taken me many years to winnow down to this group of patterns which warm my heart in styles I love to wear, and it has taken much searching when unknown small pattern lines are mentioned. I can still remember how I relaxed when I came across Alexandra Genetti’s Blanchette top, as the first pattern I had seen that feels truly ‘me’. She only has 4 clothing patterns, and I don’t choose the others 😀 The other patterns in the oversized top section below had a similar effect more recently. This was true of some of the other patterns too, while a few are mentioned here because I keep coming back to them.

Of course many people don’t want to choose a small group of patterns – if you’re one of them you can stop reading this now ! I know some people like to make a different pattern every time they sew, a strategy that would not work for me at all 😀

–

What garment types do you wear ?

First identify the basic garment types that you wear. If you lead a very varied life (perhaps boardroom, gym, opera, or office work plus tending small children and climbing mountains) you may find you need to choose a different group of styles for each situation.

I am now retired with no very active hobbies so my life style is fairly constant.
I find I always wear a frill edged shirt with slim pants and an oversized pullover top, plus a puffy vest in winter : my ‘uniform’.
When I was working, my work ‘uniform’ was a summer top or winter polo-neck (US turtle neck) sweater plus classic pants and various thigh or duster length jackets. In summer I was known for wearing interesting blouses rather than shirts. In winter the variety was in the jackets, the sweater and pants were always the same.

For outerwear I wear a parka in the summer, and in winter a quilted jacket. I always have hooded outerwear, as rain here has to be expected and I find umbrellas are a hassle 😀
I never wear a tee-shirt, jeans or leggings, dresses or skirts.

I didn’t deliberately set out to be a ‘uniform’ person, that was what I found myself to be when I started learning about personal style. And I am not at all suited to the sort of work where you have to wear a real uniform 😀 In personal styling, the word ‘uniform’ is used with the general meaning of ‘always the same’, rather than the specific clothing meaning of everyone wearing exactly the same items with indicators of being members of a given group.

Once you know your most important garment types, then identify whether (for each) you could manage with only one pattern or want them all.
Shirt, pants and jackets are simple pattern choices for me. But I want a huge choice of oversized tops, they must now be my ‘focus of variety’ garment 😀

–

My pattern choices

Shirt
Frill edged shirt, my ’signature’ item which I always wear.
Lands End is currently a source of ones I like.
Liesl & Co Recital is a possible pattern – add frills to the cuffs.
Spring 2025 – frilled shirts are said to be ‘on trend’, though make the neck frill wider, say 1-1/4″, 3cm.

Pants
Sew Over It Carrie pants
A beginner sewist could choose any basic elastic waist pants pattern.
I often wear Lands End starfish slim leg pants, basically yoga pants, but they have no pockets. . . I have not yet settled on a pattern for knit pants, it will be mostly self-drafted anyway as my body is nothing like an ‘average’ pant pattern.

Over-sized pullover top
This is my ‘signature’ in a different way – this garment type is where my clothing variety comes in. I would find it very difficult to have to restrict myself to one pattern !

The easiest such top to make is the Cris Wood Sews Start Here free big square armhole top,
I have a couple of posts on making this, here and here.
This is also a good shape for simple machine knitted sweaters. See Knit It Now – search Patterns > Prickly Pear.

I do like many other over-sized top patterns. These are some slightly less simple ones.
GreenStyle Brighton raglan sleeve pullover top.
Elizabeth Suzann Harper pullover top.
Alexandra Genetti Blanchette pullover top.
Top patterns from All Well Workshop and Tropical Research are also inspiring as they include instructions for many simple hacks.
There are many other big top patterns that I am attracted to.

Perhaps I could manage to restrict myself to only one pattern for oversize tops if it had the potential for a lifetime of hacks 😀
My single base might be the Tropical Research Lazy Top. I particularly like smock styles : a gathered skirt under a bodice/yoke seam which can be at many levels. Then there are plenty of possible front openings, neckline edges and collars, sleeves, pockets. . . There are multiple ways of making variations and repetitions.

Jacket
Those pullover top patterns can all easily be converted to light jackets by adding a front opening. I have several posts on doing that, this is the first in a group.
Or I like a simple robe style with a wide neckband, such as Helen’s Closet Moss (choose your own length).

For summer outerwear I have a favourite long discontinued parka pattern, Simplicity 2153. Easy to add a hood.

For winter there’s the :
Spaghetti Western Sewing Rue quilted jacket.
Spring 2025 – quilted jackets are said to be ‘on trend’. Goodness it’s years since I’ve thought of aspiring to be fashionable 😀 This is a university area and I am retired, so fashion is not a high priority.

Also in winter for warmth I add a puffa vest :
again I wear mainly from Lands End,
but this is a possible Burda pattern.

–

Some more general comments

For style details, I do like the addition of a little ‘heirloom’ stitching or machine embroidery. There also seem to be gathers in many items 😀
My best and favourite colours are in a very limited range too : always in light warm neutrals – naturals, greys and tans, preferably textured, and with an occasional red.

My overall style and group of patterns do not fit well into any of the style categories used by stylists, perhaps it is a slightly ‘romantic’ version of ‘casual’ with a touch of ‘chic’. I like to be physically and mentally comfortable and, for me to be mentally comfortable, items need to be of good quality in both make and style lines. Possibly ’boutique chic’.

To make a mix-and-match capsule (if you like that approach to minimising the number of clothes you own/make, and to simplifying your choice of what to wear) you need to co-ordinate your pattern choices in shape (easy if you’re always starting from one pattern), and make the garments in compatible colours. See these posts on capsules and on simplifying your wardrobe.

When you have identified your key garment patterns, you can get them to fit well so they become TNTs (Tried ’N True). Or you can work the other way round if you already have TNTs. You could identify your favourite garment style from the TNT patterns you have already chosen to take enough trouble with, so you can make them many times.

Only one of my pattern choices is from the Big 4, I do find currently that Simplicity has the best instructions. Several of my choices are not even from well known indies.
And each pattern is from a different pattern line.
You may find the same, if your personal clothing style too is not close to mainstream or ‘normcore’.

How lucky you are if you can find one pattern line that provides the styles you like to wear, and with instructions of a type you like to follow 😀 How much that does simplify things !
I do aspire to make several of the oversized top patterns from The Sewing Workshop, the epitome of boutique chic.

I tried to suggest one pattern line I would be willing to work with exclusively, but I just couldn’t do it 😀 Might it be Tropical Research ? I do love some of his shapes (not his pants or dresses), as well as his hand illustrated instructions.
I will keep searching. . . well, only as an interesting and informative project. Of course, using only one pattern line is not at all necessary, but it does focus the mind on which style elements are essential for you.

–

Good Luck with your personal version of this Quest
♥️ 👍 ♥️ 😀 ♥️

= = = = =

Categories: my choices, personal style

Comments: 2 Comments

Wardrobe patterns

July 21, 2024

Want to make it easier to co-ordinate your clothes ? You might start from a wardrobe pattern.
The matching up of silhouettes, proportions, necklines, and armholes so you can wear the items together has been done for you. You only need to think about fabric : the colours, prints, and textures which are best for you.

Even in 2024 there are many wardrobe patterns available from the ‘Big 4’ pattern sources, though fewer than there used to be.

Indie pattern designers tend not to offer them. I used to enjoy the Central Park pattern from the long discontinued Park Bench company.
park bench wardrobe
Easy to copy – see these posts on learning to sew while making a starter wardrobe :
skirt and pants can be made by complete beginners,
tops, vests, jacket can be made by advancing beginners.

The wardrobe patterns below are just a selection from what is available.
I have aimed for ‘Core 4’ patterns that include a jacket, top, skirt and pants.
You would be able to combine the 4 items into 6 different outfits. The 4 two-item ones in this diagram, plus two 3-item outfits made by adding the jacket to the two on the right :
4outfits
(example pattern oop)

Every added item increases the number of possible outfits. See the final section below, on making more than one of each item in your wardrobe pattern.

I have not listed wardrobe patterns which only include sleeveless tops because:
– I am dubious those jackets would be comfortable over sleeved tops, the armholes and sleeves may be too tight. Which means they are not good in a small capsule, as you can’t include tops which do have sleeves into your grouping.
– I think tops with sleeves offer more outfit options for more lifestyle situations (and it’s often easy to make short sleeved or sleeveless versions of sleeved top patterns).
– I don’t wear sleeveless tops myself (I don’t live in a hot climate !).

Basic adaptations

– You will need to add a simple skirt to some of these patterns.
Use an elastic-waist skirt made from rectangles (if you need a pattern see Cris Wood Sews One Hour skirt and choose your own length).
Or, if you’re willing to do some pattern work, see this post for how to make a skirt pattern from a pants pattern.

– Perhaps divide a garment pattern with a waist seam into a separate bodice which can be lengthened into a top, and a skirt or pants.

– – –

The patterns

I did think of sorting these patterns into groups with the same difficulty rating.
But I find the difficulty ratings rather odd.
I think the Butterick and Vogue items labelled ‘Easy’ are actually intermediate, while the New Look and Simplicity items labelled ‘Average’ look easier than the Butterick and Vogue items labeled ‘Easy’ – ah well.
The same company now owns all these pattern lines. The pattern size numbers have long been the same for all these pattern sources, but the sewing difficulty ratings have not been standardised. (It would cause major disruption as the existing ratings are printed on all envelopes as well as on the website.)
Make your own judgement about whether you can sew the style elements included 😀

Patterns for Misses sizes

Butterick 6258

Butterick 6294

Butterick 6389, length options provided for you.

Butterick 6495

Butterick 6599, colour blocking possibilities, not a skirt but 2 lengths of pants. There are many options for adding closures to an edge-to-edge jacket, such as button loops, clasps, frogs.

McCall’s 7331 by Nancy Zieman

McCall’s 7635 by Khalia Ali

McCall’s 8163 by Nancy Zieman

New Look 6217

New Look 6351

New Look 6735

Simplicity 8177 by Mimi G

Simplicity 8924

Vogue 1959 by Marcy Tilton, rated ‘Advanced’

Vogue 9191
The layers are ponchos which you could wear anything under – though beware the poncho with wrist cuffs, perhaps omit them. So I have included this pattern even though the top is sleeveless.

Vogue 9286
The jacket and tunic use many of the same pattern pieces, so one can’t be worn over the other. But they are over-sized, so you might make the tunic a size smaller – and perhaps taper the sleeves.

–

Patterns for Women’s sizes

There are few wardrobe patterns for larger sizes, though in this more realistic world there are marvellous one- and two-item patterns in the Know Me range. But the presentation there is very repetitive, there aren’t as many different patterns as it looks.

Butterick 3039, various length options

McCall’s 7635 by Khalia Ali

McCall’s 8163 by Nancy Zieman

Simplicity 8177 by Mimi G

Simplicity 9269, a 3-item outfit

– – –

Building up to a capsule

Do any of these patterns appeal as the starting point of a capsule for you ?

You will need more than one of each item in your pattern to make a capsule.
Many wardrobe planners suggest a 12-item capsule of 3 jackets, 3 tops, 3 skirts, 3 pants. Make one of the 3 in your best dark neutral, one in your best medium neutral, and one in your best light.
But such a group of items may not suit your style. Here is a pdf on personalised wardrobe planning.

Do you want to make several versions of each item in your wardrobe pattern without doing any pattern changing ? Here is a post with suggestions for making repetitions more interesting – from about 1/3 of the way through.

Or are you happy to do a little easy pattern work to make the items more different ?
Many simple adaptations are possible, such as described in the post on Louise Cutting’s Anything But Ordinary capsule.
Or see the post on Make everything from one pattern – which in that case meant a pattern for a single garment, not a wardrobe pattern ! You don’t need to start from a jumpsuit pattern to make easy changes to top and pants patterns.

Of course you can simply try out your wardrobe pattern items with other garments you already have in your closet, until you find enough to make a more varied capsule 😀

–

Enjoy your dreaming, planning, making, and wearing
♥️ 👍 ♥️ ♥️ 👍 ♥️ ♥️ 👍 ♥️

= = = = =

Categories: wardrobe planning

Comments: 6 Comments

Louise Cutting’s ‘Anything But Ordinary’ capsule

July 12, 2024

I remember writing a note about a capsule Louise Cutting suggested. The note got lost with the demise of Stitcher’s Guild. I think it is worth re-discovering.
This re-edited version includes some quotes from Louise [sections in ” “] for which the sources are no longer available, so I hope she won’t mind.

This shows how easy it is to build a rich group of co-ordinates from a small number of patterns.

Louise based her capsule around her Cutting Line Anything But Ordinary (ABO) pattern.
The sewing processes used are at advanced beginner to low intermediate level, and well explained in Louise’s instructions.

As described below, she made a jacket, vest, and blouse from the jacket pattern, and the original plus another top with adjusted proportions from the top pattern.
Most of the pattern changes suggested are very easy, and made during cutting out or during sewing.

Sadly some of us would have to pay more for shipping paper patterns from the US than Louise charges for a pattern, so I have suggested some .pdf alternatives.

–

Make the ABO jacket as a blouse and a vest

The basic jacket is like this :
ABO jacket

“I’ve made several ABO in both blouse and jacket weight fabric in the same size. I’ve also . . . by drafting armhole facings made a companion vest, again in the same size.”
(See this post for many links to guidance on drafting facings.)

Change of proportions :
“The blouse can be about 2″ longer than the jacket, and the top edge of the collar seam can be sewn at 1″ [seam allowance] instead of 5/8”. Easiest way to shorten the collar. This way it gives a “stacked” look. And no, the collar doesn’t need to be buttoned at the neck.”

If you have trouble with attaching the collar, see this post with suggestions for easy methods. You could also make the jacket, vest or blouse without the collar, see one of the comments below. An easy way of adding some more looks. Add a collarless short sleeved jacket to your group and greatly increase the number of different outfits you can style.

For myself I would lengthen the jacket. As the pattern sides are straight that is easy to do.

The following patterns from The Sewing Workshop are somewhat similar. They could be made in both blouse and jacket fabrics, and played with in the same way.
Crossroads shirt.
Now shirt.
Quincy top.

–

Change the proportions of the ABO top

The basic top is like this :
ABO top

To add to the delights of the ABO pattern, Louise devised a simpler version of the shell, which she called a ‘Go To’ top.
These instructions about changing proportions could be used to change pretty well any basic shell pattern that you have. Note the pattern is not a knit tee, it is for woven fabric.
McCall’s 7322 andMcCall’s 8160 are similar top patterns with faced necklines.

Width :
“It’s about 3″ wider than the size you normally cut in ABO through the body, so the air flows…add a vertical 3/4″ of tissue along the shoulder between the neck edge and armscye to both front and back.”

lou box top
not the ABO top but shows the position of the vertical pattern slash lines

Length :
“The length of the ‘go to’ finished top is actually the length of the unfinished top in ABO…so add another 2″ for a hem, then, once it’s turned up at the 2″ hem mark and stitched it will give weight at the hem for the top. 
Dip the hem 1/2″ at centre back and true it back to the side seams.
I put hem vents at the sides of the hem. They are 1″ at side seams.”

Lowering the neckline :
“Instead of a 5/8″ seam, sew [the neckline seam allowance] at 3/4″ or 7/8″ and don’t bother putting the tab at the shoulder.”

Sleeve length and taper :
“I lengthen mine to 3/4, but that is personal preference.”
Extend the sides of the pattern piece.

“Taper them so they are about 10-12″ at the hem. You will have to taper the sleeve sides from about 1″ below the top at front and back so you get the 10″-12″ at the hem. Don’t forget the ‘turn of the cloth’ so the 1″ hem (you will need to add that amount) can turn back inside the sleeve.”
(See the last section of this post on hems for guidance about what to do at the hem end of a tapered seam.)

If you like a full length sleeve, the width of the sleeve at the hem could be narrower – what is your preference?

– – –

Adding more items

If you followed all Louise’s advice on adapting Anything But Ordinary you would make 5 items :
jacket, vest, and blouse from the jacket pattern,
top, and another top with different proportions.

For a complete outfit or capsule, add some pants.
Louise always advocates her One-Seam pants (left below),
but I prefer a side seam pant with tapered leg, as in her My Swing Set pants (right).
one seams tapered pant
Both are elastic waist, and basically for variety in a capsule you need pants in 2 styles : a straight leg pant and a tapered leg pant.

For hot weather you could shorten either to shorts or capris. You can fold up the pattern pieces to shorten pattern pieces with straight sides. Sadly you can’t just fold up tapered leg pattern pieces to shorten the length, as there can be problems with a hem at the end of a tapered seam. For advice see the tapered seams section of this hems post.

There are many patterns which include both straight and tapered pants, though most of them have zipper flys. There are a few double patterns with elastic waists, but for some reason all the ones that are easy to find are paper-only patterns : New Look 6691, Simplicity 8389, Simplicity 8841, Very Easy Vogue 9258.

Adding 2 pairs of pants to the items made from ABO would give 7 garments.
3 tops, 2 bottoms, 2 layers, from which you can make :
3 tops x 2 bottoms = 6 basic outfits.
Each top-bottom pair can be worn with 3 layer options (none, vest, jacket) = 18 different outfits.

Louise added the top and elastic-waist skirts from her Putting It Together pattern, which includes a sleeveless top, an above knee straight skirt, and a below knee flared skirt.
top
slim skirt
flare skirt
For some alternate pattern options see the first post on Eileen Fisher’s 12 shapes.

Adding the 3 items from Putting It Together to the previous 7 items would give 10 garments.
4 tops, 2 skirts, 2 pants, 2 layers, which make in all :
4 tops x 4 bottoms = 16 basic outfits x 3 layer options = 48 different outfits.

You can of course add more of any of the items in different fabrics. Classic 12-item capsules can include a top and skirt in the same print to make a 2-piece dress.

–

Making a capsule wardrobe

With accessories (bags, shoes, scarves, jewellery) for both casual and evening wear, this group could make a complete holiday capsule.
(If things unexpectedly got really cold, you could actually wear most of the tops and layers together.)

To achieve the maximum number of outfits suggested above, all the garments need to look good together : all tops with all bottoms, all layers with all tops and bottoms. Louise chose from her patterns so they co-ordinate : silhouettes, proportions, necklines and armholes are wearable together. To improve co-ordination, use only three of your best colours : two of your best medium or dark neutrals plus your best light (including having those in prints). If that thought depresses you, add some more tops in bright colours and strongly patterned prints 😀

To dress in ’boutique casual’ style, you would need to make these garments in quality fabrics using quality methods.
Louise’s Cutting Line patterns are noted for good instructions.

These fabrics are listed on the patterns :
Layers and bottoms :
linen, linen/cotton, medium weight cotton, piqué, chambray, light denim,
linen rayon, medium weight rayon, Tencel, micro fibre,
silk crepe de chine, silk dupioni, silk matka, silk shantung, silk tussah, 3-ply-silk,
light weight wool, tropical weight wool, wool crepe.
Jackets only : home dec fabrics.
Tops : handkerchief linen, rayon, blouse weight cotton, cotton shirting.

Louise used to sell particularly interesting fabrics herself.
Atelier Brunette or Nani Iro might make good substitutes. Or Nerida Hansen’s prints. If you prefer quieter, look at Merchant & Mills linens, with their light fabrics for shirts/ blouses.

–

More alternatives

The capsule above is based on making adaptations to a basic 3-pattern group for layers and tops, pants, and skirts. The styles suggested in this Eileen Fisher post about a capsule of 12 items are also boutique-casuals.
The second post of the EF group includes some simple longer ‘kimono’ jacket styles (that link is to some patterns). Adding one of those to your ABO capsule could make a big change in the effect of your outfits. Make one for warmer one for cooler weather, or one casual one more dressy. And ‘kimonos’ fold up easily for packing.

This link leads to some other 3-pattern groups (layer, top, pants) from many indie pattern designers. These are somewhat easier to make than above as they include ‘robe’ jackets rather than funnel collar styles, but also could be more difficult as many of the tops have necklines finished with bias-strip-facing (instead use bias binding or a true facing).

A source of marvellous ’boutique casual’ wardrobe patterns is nearly anything by Adri. All long out of print so need some searching, or use for inspiration. Here’s a pinterest board showing the possibilities. It must be said that few are easy, many are made from a single layer of fabric so need enclosed seams and carefully narrow hemmed edges. Some of them now have mighty odd proportions to our eyes, but many are still usable. Here is a post by someone who used one of these patterns to sew a whole capsule in a weekend. This shows they do not need any unavoidably slow techniques, though she must be a very expert sewist 😀

Also there are many ‘wardrobe’ patterns from the Big4, some are more ‘normcore’, surprisingly many are ’boutique casual’. See this post. Most can be made in different lengths, with or without collars and sleeves. . .

–

Enjoy both the making and the wearing.
♥️ 👍 ♥️

= = = = =

Click on the red header to see the index at top right.

Categories: specific capsules, style and planning

Comments: 4 Comments

« Older Entries