If you had to pick only one top pattern, to make everything except skirts and pants, what would it be ?
This question is inspired by Rusty Bensussen’s book “Making a Complete Wardrobe from 4 Basic Patterns” published in 1987. It’s not a book I would recommend whole heartedly. There are some odd ideas – for example using the same top pattern without any size changes for a shirt, a jacket, and a coat – just by changing the fabric and length. I wonder if any inexperienced sewer has tried that, and found themselves with too much interfering bulk at the underarm when they tried to wear even two of the garments together, let alone shirt + jacket + coat. Well, Bensussen’s top pattern is very oversized. So perhaps that is less problem than it would be with a fitted armhole.
The same top pattern used without size changes for both an evening dress and a coat. . . aargh. This clearly illustrates the great difference of opinion about what clothes should be like, between now and when this book was written.
There are some blind spots in Bensussen’s technique descriptions (both pattern making and sewing), which could confuse a beginner. But on the positive side, this book introduces simple changes which give a different garment from the same starting point. And that is something I would like to explore.
Following the book, from one top pattern I need to make patterns for : pullover top, open-front shirt, untailored unlined jacket, untailored unlined coat, vest, dress, evening dress.
Permitted changes are necklines and sleeve cuffs, front openings, and length. And I’m going to remove one limit. I am going to use different sizes for different purposes.
It would be possible to choose a similar pattern with modern proportions and follow Bensussen’s styles quite closely. But here I’m going to show how easily it can be done from other patterns. As my starting point I choose McCall’s 5664 (discontinued).
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Here are the options.
Pullover Top
closed front, collarless
Here is a post on converting from open to closed front.
Open-front Shirt
open all way down front
2018 : I now have a group of 4 posts about pattern making for front openings :
1. zip, button band
1b. adding extras to a front band
2. combined facing to front edge and neckline
2b. adding to a front-neckline facing.
These methods could also be used for changing from one type of placket to another, such as changing from a button placket to a zip, or changing between an integral button band, a separate button band, and a facing.
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Vest
sleeveless, collarless, open-front, add facings or full lining.
The starting point pattern isn’t a layering top. So a vest might need to be one size larger to add ease for comfort.
This drapey style wouldn’t be a good pattern to use for a fur / quilted / upholstery fabric vest. I think it would be best in a less stiff fabrication. For a rich fabric, velour might be okay.
Untailored Jacket
open front, collarless, no cuffs, add facings
As this pattern has a modern fitted armhole, I would need to make some changes so the jacket would fit comfortably over the shirt. Going up one size would be a simple answer. That isn’t an ideal solution, there are some things that need to be checked. And if you’ve altered your starting pattern for a good fit, you won’t be able just to trace off a larger size.
It would be a good idea to make this jacket collarless and cuffless, to remove the problems of wearing shirt, jacket and coat together and all with the same collar and cuff style.
I think I would also break the rules a bit here, and remove the fullness at the sleeve head, so the jacket could be worn easily under a coat.
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Untailored Coat
at least two sizes larger, knee length, full length sleeves, no cuffs
I might widen the collar by 1/2 to 1 inch, to give it more emphasis on a larger garment.
Dress
sashed, short sleeved, knee length
Evening Dress
sashed, scoop neck, floor length
This could be sleeveless. I would probably make it with long sleeves, as the places round here where formal events are held have minimal heating.
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Much to my surprise, it is actually possible to do this quite easily. What an interesting exercise.
Bensussen focusses on making many different types of garment from one pattern. Burda WOF magazine takes a different approach. They don’t change the general category of garment but change its style. There’s a good example in the October 09 issue. They make 4 very different jackets from one simple straight pattern, using changes in trim and pockets.
Chanel style jacket : patch pockets, braid trim.
Party coat : bow belt, inseam pockets, trumpet sleeves.
Safari style jacket : collar and cuffs, epaulets, bellows pockets.
Sporty blouson jacket : hidden placket closure, welt pockets, knit bands.
(Another sporty option would be a hoodie with exposed zip at centre front and kangaroo pockets.)
For more pocket variations there’s Diane Ericson’s pattern for 60 pockets. That could take a while to work through 😀
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This restyling game can be played from many other starting points. Your best choice depends on your body shape and personal style.
People with square shoulders might prefer raglan or drop shoulders.
People who aren’t pear shaped could use a straight sided basic style, such as a classic shirt.
Those who look better with some garment shaping might start from a classic darted blouse, or a basic shoulder princess style.
More suggestions for starter patterns in this post.
Do you prefer a softer or a crisper effect ?
Does the thought of thinking up ways of making the garments all look different fill you with glee ?
Or does the prospect of having so many similar clothes make you shudder with horror 😀
But hey, once you get the hang of how to do the simplest of pattern alterations, one basic pattern can give you an amazing range of possibilities.
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Post originally written and pattern available October 2009
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