Sewingplums

HAPPY NEW YEAR, AND HAPPY STITCHING IN THE NEW DECADE 😀

UK Elle (January 2010 issue) has 4 themes to keep us going for the winter. There are two casual styles which have all the pattern and colour, and two work styles, all black, grey and white.

They’re all different combinations of fairly classic shapes. The big difference is the jacket/ layering top chosen. All styles wear slim pants or leggings.

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Note : Butterick-McCall’s-Vogue has changed their websites. My BMV links now only get you to a page where you can search for a pattern number.
I apologise that I haven’t changed to the new individual URLs, but it would be a lot of work.

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Canadian Winter

Canadians may be entertained to know that UK Elle thinks we should be dressing like backwoods Canadians this winter – plaids, denim, sheepskins. Classic shapes except they have fitted not dropped shoulders.

Plaid big shirts, with yokes and pockets cut on the bias. These are North American homespun plaids, not Scottish tartan plaids. In bright reds and blues. Sadly most of the homespuns available from UK quilt shops are autumn ‘country’ colours.

Of course use Canadian patterns ! Here are the Jalie 2111 shirt (left) and the McPhee Workshop 305 He/She shirt. (Linda MacPhee’s patterns are good for people who like quick techniques.)

Big warm knits, in fair-isle or scandinavian knitted-in patterns.

Sheepskin lined jackets, hats and boots, with outer wool, denim or suede. Elle doesn’t go as far as suggesting the big red and black fleece lumberjack style !

Jackets are classics. Convertible collars, fairly straight shape, may have yokes. A jeans jacket would be a good starting point. Can be worn shorter than the shirt. For a vest gilet in the same style, simply make one of these but sleeveless. Here’s the Jalie 2320 denim jacket. The line diagrams for the MacPhee 295 Jean jacket are very similar.

Remember to allow for the fur lining. I wrapped a strip of fake fur round myslf and was surpised to find it only increased my measurements by about an inch. It’s worth checking body, shoulder and sleeve ease. Or Kwik Sew 5259 is designed to be made with fur inside.

An alternative is a padded blouson, see the Jalie 2108 insulated jacket, worn with a leather trimmed backpack.

If you look round those sites, you’ll see Canadian designers know something substantial is needed for protection from a real Canadian winter ! Here in the southern UK we’ve had just a touch of snow so far. But some areas in North America are already well below zero. For that you’ll want lined salopettes, such as Jalie 2109 lined overalls (left), or Green Pepper (Oregon, US) 103 waisted and 113 unwaisted.

Accessories : Fur-lined flat ankle boots. And aviator style sheepskin lined helmets, such as Kwik Sew 2613, or Onion 6006 accessories.

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Casual Lounging

Long easy tunics or knits in soft luxury fabrics and yarns – silks and cashmeres, worn with leggings.

Taupe, light grey, pinky beige, nude colours, little pattern and some surface texture.

The long tops are usually somewhat loose fitting. The waist is not shaped, but sometimes marked by a seam/ casing or self-fabric belt. This is difficult to find a pattern for, as the line is at waist not under bust level. Easy enough to add a casing at that level.

This must be my style, as I want to quote patterns I’ve often mentioned before. Here are some possibilities (left to right) : McCall’s 5926 (oop), Kwik Sew 3718 (move the casing up a bit), Butterick 5185, McCall’s 5932.

Accessories : Sheepskin lined flat calf length boots and big shawl scarves.

If you’re wearing this elegant couch potato/ winter recluse style, it looks as if you’re not expected to go outdoors, as there are no suggestions for warm jackets and coats or hats. My favourites are Vogue 8605 or Mizono Vogue 1145, which I’ve mentioned before.

How about a cashmere-alpaca fleece coat with a cashmere beanie, scarf and gloves 😀

But stylish people round here are wearing padded blousons or thigh length pea coats (see below).

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Military

This is one of the more formal styles. The key to the theme is the jacket, worn with a white top and black or grey slim pants. Lots of buttons, studs if you like them. There are two related shapes.

One jacket style is short with princess seams and band collar. Basically the traditional hussar jacket, which is fitted and high hip length, with either an edge-to-edge front closure with lots of braid or frogs, or double breasted with shiny metal buttons.

Many pattern lines have one of these shapes, even already with added braid. Here are Kwik Sew 3466 (top left), Burda Patterns > Coats, Jackets > 7934, Onion 1031 uniform jacket (bottom left). Or for authenticity there’s Folkwear 133 Belgian Military Chef’s jacket.

The second jacket style is a double breasted pea coat with big lapels and collar, and shiny buttons again, low hip or thigh length. Most patterns are coats which can be shortened. Try Burda Patterns > Coats, Jackets > 8022, Vogue 1266, or oop Vogue 7978

There is a touch of big shoulders in this military style. But otherwise the big shoulder idea seems to have disappeared. There are very few in the images Elle picked to preview next season. So perhaps big shoulders were a fad rather than a hint of a longer term style change.

Military accessories : this time the boots are unlined calf-length and heeled. Other accessories are all black leather, with studs and buckles. Military style square sided caps : Kwik Sew 3481, or Vogue 8528 View E for a softer look.

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Androgynous

More white shirts and black or dark grey slim pants, this time in very classic styles.

‘Boyfriend’ jackets and knits. These are long and straight, perhaps a bit over large. The jackets are an extreme version of the classic notched lapel style. The lapels are not only typically slim, but also very low. The ‘break’ of the lapel, where it starts to fold out from the front, is often below waist level. The ‘gorge’, the point which divides the collar and lapel, is also very low, perhaps below bust level.

Here’s an extreme version from Andy & Deb in Pantone Fashion and Home > Trends > Splashes of Sunshine for 2010.

The true boyfriend style is of course tailored, with notched lapel and collar combination. I’ve had difficulty finding patterns for this very long lapel, can’t even find one for men !

(P.S. the new McCall’s 6043 suit has a lapel down to waist level, though not a low notch between collar and lapel. And it has very slim pants !
P.P.S. the new Vogue 8638 jacket pattern has long lapels and low notches.)

Drafting your own lapel collar combination isn’t a beginner project. You could try in Pattern Master Boutique. Set the neckline depth (on Settings tab) to it’s lowest for the ”break’. Set the Notch depth (on Collar tab) to its lowest for the ‘gorge’. Also make the lapel narrow.

Or for a simpler solution to get a touch of this look, make a straight jacket with a turn back from a deep V-neck front edge and add a cut-out notch, as indicated in the fashion sketch.

If you’re buying a long classic knit cardigan, choose one styled for women, so it has a neat fitted armhole and slim sleeves.

Accessories : more black, mainly crisp in line, or Chanel quilting and chains, or go frivolous and girly to tone down the masculine look.

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All four styles include slim pants and leggings. ‘Canadian’ ones can even be in plaid 😀 Burda WOF magazine has patterns for slim pants and leggings in most current issues. Otherwise try Donna Karan Vogue 1039 (left) for pants.and Issey Miyake Vogue 1114 (right) for leggings, or Onion 0005 (in the speciality patterns).

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All styles have large square hand held bags, in their own typical materials : plaid, black, silver, fake fur, quilted. These don’t look like an attaché case but would be big enough for a laptop. Should be easy to make a fabric version. Basically a big square stiff sided tote, with leather or square cornered hardware rather than fabric handles. Much easier to make than what I thought was ‘the’ bag for this season, which is leather and covered in silvery metal : D-rings, buckles, eyelets, exposed zips. . .

Add of course a phone by Dior, Prada, or Dolce & Gabbana. 😀

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Patterns available December 09

What are the style choices for the coming season ? I’ve summarised below what a couple of UK style magazines say. And added a note about the trends on US Vogue’s Style.com.

Long ago, everyone had to wear the same look to be ‘fashionable’. Then in the 80s it was either power dressing or ‘anything goes’. Now there is a range of style choices, though they are usually some version of ‘classic’, ‘casual’ or ‘dramatic’.

The general styles not catered for by these fashion editors are ‘romantic’ and ‘sporty’. People who like lace and embroidery are expected to wear beading, fringe and gathers. I don’t think they’re the same at all. Perhaps looking pretty isn’t a current stereotype, Or perhaps both gentle and more active people don’t make for eye-catching photos and exciting copy. Well, people who prefer softer lines know to look in the Butterick catalogue for patterns. People who enjoy a sporty style may like Jalie or Green Pepper patterns. And Stella McCartney designs for Adidas.

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Note : Butterick-McCall’s-Vogue has changed their websites. My BMV links now only get you to a page where you can search for a pattern number.
I apologise that I haven’t changed to the new individual URLs, but it would be a lot of work.

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Anyway in this season (autumn/ winter 09), according to the UK Elle and UK In Style October issues, the looks we can choose between are :

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Classic Chic
Trench or double breasted coats, ruffled blouses, white shirts, slightly tapered skirts (knee length) or pants, dresses and matching suits often with defined waists.
Camelhair, classic leather bag, silk scarf, slim leather belt at waist, riding boots (not western !)

This camel coat is from Donna Karan. (Style.com links are very slow in my browser. To see the slide show, click the link under the catwalk photo on Style.com) Look at MaxMara for trenches. And Chanel for lovely wearable suits and evening dresses. Or Burberry Prorsum for an edgier look.

There are many appropriate patterns in the Vogue catalogue, so I haven’t picked out specifics. If much of Burberry goes too far for your pleasure, look at Nancy Erickson’s patterns and excellent newsletter about how the classic style changes with the trends.

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Downtown Cool
Soft long jackets, fur tops, plaid big shirts, slim pants, ankle boots, big scarves.

Get inspiration from parts of the Gucci show, though this style is as much street as catwalk.

Here’s a wardrobe pattern for this look (McCall’s 5983).

Add the jacket from Vogue 8546.

Many shows include jackets with cut on elbow length sleeves and big turn-back cuffs. There are several patterns in the McCalls and Butterick catalogues, or try Vogue 8603.

And the long tunic look includes thigh length cardigans.

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Easy Luxe
don’t care, anything goes together, relaxed but expensive, loose large casuals.

Typical show Chloe

Here are some possible ‘big easy’ patterns (Vogue 8538, Vogue 8499, Vogue 1112. Despite what the style description says, these are not just big but interesting too !

Or this Issey Miyake wardrobe (Vogue 1476)

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Boho Chic – Boho Glamour
Short skirts, tunic dresses, drapes, gathers, handkerchief hems, long fur and other vests, grey tees/ sweat shirts.
Animal prints, big soft bags, thigh boots.

Iconic show Isabel Marant, or Kenzo if you prefer calf-length skirts.

Butterick 3311 includes a fur hoodie vest. See also Butterick 5359.

McCall’s 5287 and Butterick 3257 are oop, still available in the US but not UK.

There are many thigh length tunic-dress patterns available, especially at McCall’s, such as 5926, or Anna Sui at Vogue patterns.

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Balmainia (rock chick bling) – Fierce Chic
Big shouldered jackets, short capes, buckled boots, hip slung belts, slim pants, tunics.
Lots of studs, leather, metal and shine, black and grey.

Key-note show Balmain.

Burda have ‘biker with attitude’ jackets. Go to Burda and search for the pattern numbers : 507B for the jacket and 7593 for the vest.

Add flanges in the jacket armholes for the pointed shoulder look, with shoulder pads to keep the shape.

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Paris oh la la
Corset looks, mini skirts, thigh boots, berry colours, bows and stiff ruffles.
Bling, silk, satin, rings.

Key-note show Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton.

For the full ooh la la effect, enjoy the range of corset patterns from Vena Cava,
or take the Laughing Moon no.103 1890s Waist Blouse pattern or no.105 Saloon Girl pattern as a starting point,
or McCall’s 3674 is a Moulin Rouge pattern, oop but available on ebay.

Make the rabbit ears with millinery wire and a headband 😀

For a less in-your-face version see Vogue 2810. with an Oscar de la Renta evening coat (Vogue 2714).

For other quieter special occasion wear, see the US Vogue styles below.

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The US Vogue Style.com trends emphasise retro and evening styles rather than casuals and quirky:

Classics :
smart investments
forties and fabulous

Fierce chic :
Biker Babe
party like it’s 1983

Glamour :
boudoir crossing (transparencies)
ruche hour (interesting draping)

I’m not in tune with retro, so am not a good person to comment. For original patterns, go to LanetzLiving, Patterns from the Past, or So Vintage.

There used to be some lovely Vera Wang Vogue patterns with transparent panels, sadly no longer available. For a quick version of the look, make a coverup from chiffon, perhaps Vogue 7161.

This drapey Donna Karan dress is Vogue 1119.. See also the designer eveningwear at Vogue patterns.

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Of course these notes are a summary of a simplification. And happily we haven’t actually got to wear any of them unless we want to. If none of the looks are ‘you’, pick one feature of a trend, such as a touch of fur, animal print, or glitter, or a longer top.

I could wear Downtown Cool, though I’m not an urban person. But I might add some heirloom sewing or quilters’ embellishment, which probably isn’t at all Cool 😀 I would not be happy if I was covered in bows and flounces or leather and grommets, but I know people who thrive and flourish in them. Anyway it’s fun to explore the possibilities.

Colours need care. As usual there’s much black, which is sad as up to half of us don’t look our best in it. A good alternative is grey as it has many possible shades, though it needs experimenting to find one that flatters you. Or try dark brown. Accent colours are red, berry shades, peacock blues, and nudes, none of which are easy for everyone. Non-bluey reds are good on me, but otherwise I will as usual be going my own naturals way on this.

As you can see, there’s a lot of choice about style ! Different groups of fashion editors think different things important. But there is some agreement. All three emphasise the big pointed shoulder look, which is the main ‘newsworthy’ theme of the season. Though it’s not very practical or flattering as a shoulder shape for most of us. There are many signs that big shoulders are coming back – not a look that’s good on me. Two editors notice classic styles. Both UK editors give a boho style and a casual style. The three ‘special occasion’ styles each catch the interest of only one group.

There is also overlap. If you look at a wider range of photos you’ll see that many catwalk outfits are a mixture of these styles. And there is a lot going on that doesn’t fit neatly into these editor labels. To my eye, the elements that keep reappearing (apart from all the black leather and silver !) are tunics, slim pants, fur vests, and long jackets, often with wide lapels or double breasted, band collars, waist-deep V necks, pleated fullness (often in balloon shape short skirts), big scarves and neck rings, boots. But this is just one person’s view.

See the Style.com Designer Directory if you want to spend the whole season happily looking at clothes instead of sewing them 😀 – and explore a much wider range of styles.

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Photos from Style.com.
Patterns available September 09.

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