Archive for the ‘designers, trends’ category

Looks for Spring/ Summer 2011

February 5, 2011

Here are some capsules as examples of styling with a touch of trendy for summer 2011. The styling suggestions come from the editorial and ads in the March issues of UK Elle and In Style magazines, as well as US Vogue Style.com.

This post is in three sections, each with one key example :
– crisper shapes styled in many ways,
– softer lines,
– my personal reminder that you don’t need to be trendy to look good !

Choose your own group of patterns. Many current styles are basic classic shapes, made trendy because they’re in this season’s colours, prints, and trims. How about styling your own core patterns in one of the top looks for the summer.

– – –

Here’s a casual grouping from Cutting Line, as a starter example for simple styling changes.

cutlinewdrb-bw”
(not correct relative size)

Clockwise from top left : Cutting Line : My Hearts a Flutter shell/ Easy Ageless Cool shirt/ 2 x 4 tunic/ Fun with Fabric jacket/ Easy Ageless Cool pants/ Relax a Little skirt.

If ‘oversized’ doesn’t look good on you, think of closer fitting but similar styles for tops and bottoms. Or your own TNT basics.

And blazers and jeans jackets are both current, if you prefer them to a softer style jacket like the Cutting Line one. Perhaps recent patterns Butterick 5568 (upper below) for a pretty choice of blazers, or jeans jackets from Butterick 5616 (lower below) :

”blazerjean”

These patterns can give many different styles by changing colours, prints, and trims. How about these colour and print choices for this season :

– Make your whole capsule in black with touches of grey and ivory for edgy minimalism.

– Head to toe white or soft white. A new type of city minimalism (as in Style.com Seeing the light).
UK In Style magazine March issue says ‘white is the new black’. Hmm. Some people have amazing ability to keep white clean. And some of us look dreadful in black, some in white. Wear them if you look good. Not to worry if you don’t, there are many other current looks.

– Choose tans and khakis, chinos and twills, for a ‘safari’ look.

– Or all in denim blue (not stiff fabric). Very current casual – try light/ medium/ dark blue in the same garment. Or the cheerful casual of denim with gingham, or denim with large florals.

– Or all navy, an even newer blue.

But you haven’t got to wear a monochrome look. How about :

– Colour blocking of strong pink, bright yellow, primary-like green, orange, chartreuse, as well as primary blue, and purple, with clear white, This is not the old colour blocking of several colours in one garment. Each garment is a different strong colour. Much easier to manage. The coming summer looks as if it will be a good season if you like strong clear colour.
(see Style.com on Hyper Color)

– Large (hand sized) florals widely spaced on white background, a hot climate ‘Tropicana’ or ‘desert island’ look.

– Or head to toe closely spaced prints – abstract or floral.

Those three are ‘rich beach’ looks for the coming summer.

– Louise Cutting herself uses fabulous and subtle designer wools, silks and linens to make ‘Easy Luxe’ garments from her patterns.

For high fashion accessories, choose big bags and totes, and thick platform soled high heeled shoes. With the same attitude to colours and trims as your clothes.

Or for your own style, trim and embellish with your favourites – lace or fringe, ‘statement’ buttons, bows and ruffles, glitter, embroidery or appliqué, braid or ribbon, tucks and insertions, studs and grommets, bias or leather strips ? A little or a lot ? (I got a ruffler foot for Christmas, and expect I’ll be adding ruffles to everything 😀 )

– – –

In contrast here’s a softer possibility, as it’s mainly in knits, from the December – January 2011 issues of La Mia Boutique pattern magazine. (Italian subscription). This could look edgy in blacks and greys, or pretty in light muted pastels.

lmbedge”

Although the main silhouettes are the same as Eileen Fisher’s key winter capsule (see previous post), the style details give a very different effect.

Or find similar patterns but for wovens. Add long floaty skirts or maxi dresses.
(Style.com on Midi is the message)

Make a popular look for the coming summer by using light fluid fabrics with floral prints, or white batiste, with added frills, tucks, lacing, and heirloom stitching.
(Style.com on Lace embrace)

You can also do ‘mixed’ styling, combining blazers or jeans jackets with frills and soft fabrics instead of crisp classic shapes.

In the UK magazines there are two key types of floral print for the coming season :
– hand-sized flowers spread widely over a white background. Used brightly in more classic shapes, as in the previous capsule.
– 1-2 inch/ 3-5 cm size flowers, closely spaced on more fluid fabrics. Perhaps more gentle muted colours, with a hint of transparency. A ‘Garden Party’ look. Often used in softer, more flowing, frillier styles.
But you can use these muted shades in solid/ plain fabrics and softer classic shapes as well.

For more abstract all-over prints see Style.com on the Prints revolution.

Ideally, hold a print up against yourself and look in a mirror. Is the print in scale to your own proportions and the effect you’re looking for ?

– – –

Apart from the blazers and maxi skirts, most of the trends are about colour and print, rather than shape. So you can apply them to any somewhat-classic shape that you like. There are a couple of other ‘shape’ trends :

This season’s retro style is the 70s, which Style.com calls The Yves standard.

The season’s big (literally) pant shape has high waist and relaxed leg. See Style.com We wear the pants.

(P.S. According to You Look Fab Angie’s review at the end of New York Fashion Week, the same trends continue in Fall 2011. Except she doesn’t mention white or prints, and she predicts pants will be ‘tapered’.)

– – –

And here’s a reminder you haven’t got to be trendy to look good.

If I force myself to choose a basic capsule for my own use from one designer, rather than being distracted by my fascination with style and cut and instructions, I keep coming back to Loes HinseTextile Studio.

lh-tswardrobe”
(not correct relative sizes)

Textile Studio (pink) : Tank Top Shell, Mandarin shirt, Florence jacket, Soho pant.
Loes Hinse (white) : Boat Neck top, Cowl Neck top, Tango skirt.

A soft quiet group if made in my favourite natural neutrals with touches of texture. Another monochromatic look, but not one that’s currently fashionable. Though it’s often found in ’boutique’ styles. This pattern group could of course be made in current monochromatics, or bright colour blocking, or the season’s florals and laces. Loes Hinse’s Hepburn pants have the high fashion shape. But most of this season’s trends aren’t for me, though I do like heirloom sewing on clothes. I love looking at what’s current, but wear only a little of it myself.

– – –

What about dresses ? I haven’t mentioned them, but you may love them. If you do, I expect you’ve already looked at the inspiring new dress patterns from Vogue and McCall’s. Interesting shapes which again you can vary greatly by the colours, prints and laces you choose.

Do any of these possibilities make your heart beat faster ?
Or make you react ‘no ! no ! not for me !’
Which of these trends gives you the most inspiration, or makes you feel the most comfortable and ‘in your skin’ ?

If you’re uncertain about a style, start slowly with one piece, then a 2 to 3 piece outfit, to try things out.

And as usual, Enjoy (Joy In) your Quest.

– – –

(P.S. And have a look at Style.com’s Spring Shopping Guide.
This season they actually suggest some wearable clothes 😀

P.P.S. Here’s YouLookFab’s list of trends for Spring 2011.

P.P.P.S. And here’s a link to In Style magazine’s Spring ideas.)

Patterns and links available February 2011

Update your capsule wardrobe

January 15, 2011

Update your basic capsule of stylish casuals for the winter. I’m getting to this a bit late ! but these are ‘transitional’ styles.

In the current Personal Shopper section of the Eileen Fisher site, there’s a .pdf of styles for November to February 2011. This includes a “Cheat Sheet for getting dressed” with 12 items. A basic wardrobe of co-ordinates.

Oh, absolutely everything is black, except the jeans which are dark indigo. Well, let’s ignore that. . . happily we can choose our own best colours. Making everything out of the same fabric would certainly simplify things 😀 but Eileen Fisher adds interest by using both wovens and knits, with a wide variety of surface textures and fibre types.

– – –

Bottoms

Three slim skirts of different lengths

”ef1-11skirts” Eileen Fisher

Three pants of different widths : leggings, slim pants, jeans

” Eileen Fisher

Not much different from the skirts and pants in the Summer co-ordinates, which I’ve already talked about.

– – –

Sleeveless tops

Three sleeveless tops with narrow straps and different lengths

” Eileen Fisher

Again similar to the tops I talked about in the summer.

– – –

Tops with sleeves

And two sleeved long tunics for more warmth.

” Eileen Fisher

Flared and scoop necked, different amounts of flare and different length sleeves. A new pattern needed here.

One problem with mimicking these is the flare shape. A simple solution is to lengthen and flare a favourite top pattern.

Start from something like McCall’s 6244

”m6244plus”

But if you’d rather have the work done for you, there are some possibilities.

Vogue 8542 has dropped shoulders. Easier to co-ordinate if you level the hem.

”v8542”

Also for knits there’s raglan sleeved McCall’s 6205.

”m6205”
(the neck ring is separate)

While for wovens, there’s Butterick 5390

”b5390”

For more visual interest, there are several tops on the Eileen FIsher main site with draped necklines, and many patterns in that style. A recent one is Very Easy Vogue 8669

”v8669”

Not so convenient for layering under a jacket.

For an independent pattern, there are the striking Alex and Olive tops from The Sewing Workshop.

”alexolive”

– – –

Jacket

And one jacket.

”ef1-11cardi” Eileen Fisher

They’ve chosen a flared long cardigan with neckline band.
The text says it has a peplum, but that isn’t obvious from the drawing. A longer warmer version of one of the layers in the summer capsule.

Which is the most flattering longer length for you ? at low hip, or thigh ?

If you’re larger above the waist or the same size above and below, then the flared shape isn’t essential. And it’s easy to find patterns for straight sided cardigan jackets. Just add length to a shorter style.

Those of us who are larger of hip may need to start from a straight pattern and flare the side seams.

Also adjust the neck band to the right width and sewn down like the Eileen Fisher style, if need be and you prefer that look.

For a knit jacket pattern, there’s McCalls 6084

”m6084”

For an independent pattern, perhaps Christine Jonson’s Swing Jacket 519. Looks as if it would be fairly easy to simplify to a top. (Make the top a smaller size so the jacket will layer over it.)

”cjswing”

There are several similar jackets in wardrobe patterns. Perhaps lengthen and flare the jacket pattern and alter the neck band. With small changes, these patterns could make a wardrobe quite like the Eileen Fisher one. Here are a couple for knits.

Butterick 5398

”b5398wrdrb”

And from Nancy Zieman in McCall’s 6247

”m6247”

Or of course choose your own jacket style. It just needs to be long enough and wide enough and with big enough armholes, to layer comfortably over those long sleeved tops.

– – –

Perhaps the word ‘update’ is misleading. Although the specific patterns I’ve mentioned are recent, they’re current classics rather than trendy one-season-only designs.

If you would like some ‘of the moment’ details, UK In Style magazine February issue goes for :
– white blazers,
– smock tops,
– maxi dresses,
– wild floral ‘garden party’ fabrics,
– big stitch knits,
– lots of added fringe,
– platform sole shoes with -very- high heels.

And of course I have a whole lot to say about the Eileen Fisher capsule as a whole, and how well it meets personal needs. This got much too long, so I’ve made that a separate post.

And if you don’t like planning in detail ?!
Just clarify the spirit of your capsule, as a guiding light that protects you from going too far astray. . .
Whichever way you go :
Happy Wardrobe in the coming year 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available January 2011

Peek at a Preview

December 18, 2010

The UK Elle January issue has arrived – preview of the preview for next season. . .

Colours – head to toe white or very light colours.
Or colour blocking of bright colours. (They’ve been telling us to do colour blocking for several seasons now, but I haven’t yet seen anyone dressed this way.)

Shapes – trouser suits (jacket and pants in the same fabric).
UK Elle are going for high waisted wide legged pants (definitely not flattering for me).
Cuffed short shorts worn with a tailored jacket.
Low calf or longer skirts. (People round here do wear these, but it’s a university area so they wear them whether it’s fashionable or not 😀 ).
Transparent fabric up to the neck over a very un-sexy looking all-covered-up bra.

Not much different from the Style.com preview I posted earlier.
(Baby prams/ strollers are competitive fashion items round here – I have seen a chartreuse one 😀 )

Meanwhile, more urgent than fashion – Happy Holiday preparations to all.

Current vests

December 4, 2010

This really is a season for vests. So grab some if you like them. Worn with a blouse. Or layered over long knit tops or loose tunics, as a way of getting the short-over-long layered/ lagenlook effect.

Three main looks.

– – –

1. Classic vest with a blouse

For a more formal look, there’s a classic menswear vest with a soft blouse. See my classics post. This is the current vest that’s good for a neat waist.

If you’d like a softer version, there are a couple of new wardrobe patterns which add a curved collar. Palmer-Pletsch McCall’s 6211

”m6211”

or Butterick 5570.

”b5570”

Another ‘classic’ style is a jewel-neck open front vest with Chanel style elements (braid edge trim, patch pockets, chains, pearls). Perhaps Simplicity 4789 view F without bow as a starting point.

”s4789”

– – –

2. Low hip length knit top and drapey vest

Drapey vests are also ‘current’. They add textural interest to a simple low hip length knit top, not always much warmth.

You could lengthen a favourite tee pattern for the top – you want a slim-line not stretched tight style. A new pattern is McCall’s 6244 (many layering options).

”m6244plus”

New Simplicity 2283 is another pattern for both soft vest and the knit top it’s layered over.

”s2283”
– – –

Similar vest patterns which don’t include a top

Several new patterns, such as Butterick 5498

”b5498”

and Vogue 8657.

”v8657”

Kwik Sew 3827 is a more formal fitted style. It has multiple seams at the back, so would not be as easy to add a warming inner layer to as it looks.

”ks3827”

Then, if you’re happy with instructions in French, there are several ‘gilet sans manches’ patterns from Au Bonheur des Petites Mains.

”aubonheurgilets”

I’ve seen a lace version of one of these light vests, an attractive look for a party.
And a hoodie version (see new Kwik Sew 3838) would fit in well round here.

Not a vest, but new Butterick 5563 has many ways of adding an interesting drapey layer.

– – –

3. Thigh length loose tunic with less drapey vest

Less drapey vests are often layered over a thigh length loose tunic-dress, perhaps with ‘peasant’ (gathered raglan) neckline. (Paysanne sounds more glamorous, but it’s just French for peasant.) This neckline is a current romantic / boho look.

Most pattern catalogues have something in peasant style. But many patterns are close to ‘off the shoulder’ – not what you want in mid-winter ! unless you’re wearing it over a turtle (UK polo) neck.
If you want the neckline closer to your neck, lengthen the front, back and sleeve sections above the armhole.

Here is an example of what you might look for, Stof & Stil 22021.

”ss22021”

Made thigh length and perhaps with gathered sleeve cuffs.

If you use a lightweight fabric that doesn’t bulk up when gathered, you can make a much looser style. Simply add a few inches down the mid-length of front, back and sleeves.

On the other hand, if you don’t like a lot of fullness, a partially gathered neckline such as Vogue 8650 could be a good compromise.

”v8650”

– – –

Vests to wear with the long loose tunics

These thigh length loose tunics are usually combined with less drapey vests, two styles in particular.

A long classic shape, worn 2-4 inches/ 5-10 cm shorter than the top it’s layered over, perhaps slim with a little waist shaping. McCall’s 2260 View B could be a starting point for lengthening.

”m2260”

Or a bolero (a good base for quilting and embellishment). I thought a bolero vest was an obvious style, but can’t find a Big 4 pattern. There are several patterns for bolero jackets. Remember you need a low armhole to be comfortable over a raglan sleeve.

The Laughing Moon Cowgirl pattern no.108 includes a bolero vest.

”lmbolero1”

– – –

And current warm vests

Fur vest, fur outside and V-necked, long with wide shoulders, a big look.

Or an ‘aviator’ style fur, with the fur turned in and an asymmetric exposed front zip.

Or a waist length padded blouson.

I talked about these in my warm vests post.

– – –

Of course you haven’t got to wear a vest layered over a longer top.
Either way, it’s definitely a good time for vest lovers 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available November 2010