Skirt Sewalongs – written

Posted July 20, 2013 by sewingplums
Categories: learning to sew

Thinking of sewing a skirt as an ‘advanced beginner’ project ?
Or looking for help with constructing your own 6-gore skirt pattern ?

Good sewalongs are a wonderful source of confidence and useful information.
Of course it can be extra fun if you sew along at the time of issue, but they remain a useful source of information later.

There’s a big selection for skirts – so many I doubt I’ve found them all.
I’ve tried to group them according to style elements and difficulty.

These are sewalongs with detailed step by step instructions which supplement the pattern.
I haven’t included sewalongs which are mainly encouraging chat. There are many of those at Pattern Review and Sawyer-Brook.

And this got so long I’ve divided it in parts.
Some people like written tutorials with photos. Those are free.
Some people like video demos. Those are pay-for.
Some people are strongly one way or the other. Personally I like both, video to be sure what to do, written so I haven’t got to remember.

This post lists free on-line written tutorials with photos.
Here’s a post with links to skirt sewalongs with video demos (not free).

I haven’t read through, let alone worked through, all of these. So no guarantee of quality, ease of understanding, completeness. . .

Photos are not all equal. I have a commercial pattern with the garment sewn in heavily patterned fabric that looks the same on front and back sides, with stitching in closely matched thread. Impossible to see anything at all. I don’t think any of these sewalongs fall in that trap.

All include zips unless otherwise mentioned.

– – –

Beginner wrap skirt with waistband and ties

Tilly and the Buttons Miette skirt
wrap skirt with waistband and ties, no zip or buttonholes
”miette”
download pattern and sewalong

Or here’s a ‘draft it yourself’ sew along for a wrap skirt from Sew Mama Sew.
A bit difficult for most complete beginners.

–

Gathers
No bought pattern needed, and no zips, but these are not easy techniques for complete beginners.

Tilly and the Buttons skirt gathered to waistband, with front button opening, pockets
”picnic-blanket”
sewalong

Tilly and the Buttons skirt with shirred waist
”shirred-waist”
sewalong

Draft your own pattern for contoured waistband and skirt gathered by shirring
”contour-waist”
sewalong from Sew Mama Sew

–

Pencil, a-line, gored skirts

Similar instructions apply to many other styles which just vary in number of seams and shape of pattern pieces, such as gored, flared, tulip, trumpet shapes.

Basic pencil skirt using any pattern,
such as McCalll’s 3830 classic tissue pattern.
”m3830”
sewalong from Tuppence Ha’penny

Burda Syle Jenny skirt with wide waistband
”burda-jenny”
download pattern
sewalong from A Fashionable Stitch

Colette Patterns Ginger skirt, a-line with shaped waistband
”ginger”
tissue pattern
sewalong from A Fashionable Stitch

Sewaholic Hollyburn skirt, 4-gores and pockets
”hollyburn”
tissue pattern
sewalong from My Messings

–

Contour waistband or yoke with fullness below

Simplicity 2226
”s2226”
tissue pattern
links to all the sewalong steps at the top of this post from Noodlehead

Sewaholic Crescent skirt
”crescent”
tissue pattern
for sewalong scroll to 2/3 down this page from Sewaholic

Burda 7342 flared bias skirt with lined yoke
”burda-7342”
tissue pattern
supplement to instructions, from Fashion Sewing Blog

–

Pleats

BurdaStyle Marie skirt
”burda-marie”
download pattern
scroll to 2/3 down the page for links to the sewalong steps from Stitch in my Side

Butterick 5756
”b5756”
tissue pattern
supplement to instructions, from Fashion Sewing Blog

Simplicity 2117
”s2117”
tissue pattern
supplement to instructions, from Fashion Sewing Blog

–

Other

Jennifer Stern Ribbon bias skirt with central seam.
The image isn’t clear, so here’s the Collete Ginger skirt in a bias version.
”collette-ginger-bias”
Jennifer Stern’s tissue pattern and tutorial (half way down), with advice about sewing on the bias.

Draft your own pattern for a circle skirt
”circle-skirt-pattern”
pattern drafting and sew along from Elegant Musings

– – –

With many thanks to all the people who have done all the work of preparing these sewalongs.

A few comments on how to choose between the possibilities in my second post, on video demos.

Do you like this sort of extra sewing guidance 😀

I hope you’re pleased with what you make.
If not – what did you learn from the process, about sewing and about your preferences 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available July 2013

= = =

Comments: 3 Comments

Summer jacket – Kimono

Posted July 13, 2013 by sewingplums
Categories: current fashion

I was amused by a piece in UK In Style magazine for July about wedding outfits.
Obviously they’re thinking of our recent cold sunless summers, and not expecting us to survive outdoors in a sleeveless dress.
As the emphasis of all the outfits is on a long-sleeved jacket. Over high necked tops and dresses.
None of the outfits are at all revealing !

Several interesting outfits, I’ve decided to comment on them individually as short summer posts.

The first is the most casual suggestion, a kimono.
Very fashionable this season.

”kimono-outfit”

– – –

Kimono patterns

Make in a drapey soft muted print fabric, with the neck band in a contrasting dark solid colour.

2024 : There are now a couple of posts on patterns for this style :
Easy makes.
Easy layer/ top/ pants capsules.

–

The easiest beginners’ kimono pattern is Kwik Sew Kwik Start 3177.
A pattern for a dressing gown/ robe, but currently fashionable for a casual jacket too.

”ks3177robe-2”

Choose the finished size by the effect you want – slouchy or slim.
Omit the pockets or place them differently, if that would be more flattering.
Many lengths possible – to hip, thigh, knee.

If you’d still feel you were wearing your robe in public if you made that, try Burda 7297.
Styled as robe, jacket or coat.

”burda7279”

There are also some wardrobe patterns with kimono jackets.

Simplicity 1593 is a wardrobe for knits.

”s1593”

Or for something a bit more elegant there’s New Look 6161, a Project Runway pattern.

”nl6161”

– – –

Outfit styling

In this outfit the kimono is worn with an equally softly styled dress in a light solid colour.
Both dress and kimono at knee length.

This outfit is styled with darker muted warm colours, but there are many washed prints in other colourways, lighter, brighter, cooler, to use as a colour starting point.

This is styled for a beach wedding, with open flat shoes for coping with sand.

The clutch bag, very fashionable, is the usual flat rectangle shape, but with rounded corners to match the generally soft styling.

The outfit is in browns, blacks, creams, with a wash of other subtle tones in the print.
The bag, plus a strip in the shoes, emphasises a pale green. Possibly picked out from the muted print. A good soft way to give the outfit a bit of colour ‘lift’ without overpowering the muted effect.

An easy and attractive outfit, if you’re happy in something casual, soft, unrevealing. Vary the colour to what flatters you.

– – –

A kimono was high fashion a couple of years ago too. Then it was a winter style as part of an emphasis on oriental style. I wrote a post then on kimono patterns.

Now the kimono is back as a summer style and part of an arty or ‘slouchy’ ultra-casual attitude.
YouLookFab has a couple of posts showing modern casual kimono styling with jeans and slim pants. And in brighter colourings, here and here.

So, if the style attracts you, you can wear kimonos both for everyday and for special occasions.

Wow, I’m fashionable this season without knowing it. Early in the year I bought an ecru lace kimono for ‘summer best’. Thigh rather than dress length, so best worn with slimmer pants. I love it 😀

Though we have just had a week of sunshine and warmth here, so perhaps we won’t need jackets this summer after all 😀

– – –

Outfit photo from UK In Style magazine
Patterns and links available July 2013

= = =

Comments: 2 Comments

e-Book – Basic pattern blocks

Posted July 6, 2013 by sewingplums
Categories: pattern making for clothes

Wow, on Thursday, someone made the half-millionth visit to one of my posts !

😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀

In celebration, here’s a ‘door prize’ for everyone.

Some of my most popular posts are on pattern making.

So here’s an e-book which combines the main posts.

e-Book on Personal basic pattern making blocks.pdf.

[Please note this was written in 2013, so many of the links no longer work.]

This e-book is a survey of methods for getting well fitting basic pattern blocks.
It doesn’t describe any of the methods in detail.
Or how to do the pattern altering to change the blocks to make new styles.

It’s based on these posts :

Introduction – from Favourite books – pattern altering
Pattern making – the formal route
Pattern making – easier fitting shells
Aids to well fitting blocks

These posts overlap a bit so I’ve combined and edited, and updated my opinions 😀

Enjoy !
I hope you find it useful.
And Thank You Very Much for your interest.

😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀

July 2013

= = =

Comments: 7 Comments

Favourite books – sewing

Posted June 29, 2013 by sewingplums
Categories: learning to sew, sewing technique

Chosen your style and lovingly crafted your pattern ? Now on to making the garment.
Here are some favourite books on sewing technique.

Previous favourite booklists were on the books I keep by me which are about :
Style and wardrobe
Pattern altering
Pattern drafting, Fit

Several limitations on my sewing book list :
– Many beginners sewing books have a lot on home dec. Square shapes, simple to sew and fit – easy cushions/ pillows and curtains/ drapes. But except for patchwork that doesn’t much interest me, so I don’t notice those books.
– I like learning by being guided through a specific sequence of projects, carefully chosen to introduce new skills. I know many people don’t like that. You have to be willing to make things that aren’t your ideal choice !
– I love wardrobe pattern books. But there are many with patterns for dresses, which I don’t wear. So I haven’t got those books.
– Books on tailoring – none of those either as I don’t wear structured clothes.
– There also are many more advanced books on embellishing clothes, sorry I’m not expert on them.
– And I’m no help when it comes to the best guidance on specialist techniques like sewing lingerie, or advanced and couture technique.

So this sewing booklist is like my other lists – very affected by personal preferences. There are many books which are much loved by other people and have good instructions, but which I don’t mention.

As we all have different styles of sewing and learning, there’s no guarantee these will work well for you too !
I like project based books for learning, though I also really like videos demos for the practical aspects of sewing, to feel secure that I know what to do (see right hand menu). I can learn from good books, and like to keep them by me for a speedy easy-access reminder.

There are several other books I like, but these are the ones I return to more often.

– – –

Complete beginner

Little Course in Sewing
Gentle lead-in with project sequence for hand then machine sewing (not much on clothes)

Kate Haxell Me and My Sewing Machine
Basic sewing machine processes, For reference, not project based.

Jane Eayre Fryer The Mary Frances Sewing Book
This is the 100th anniversary edition with patterns included for 18 inch dolls – hand sew a sequence of early 20c styles.

– – –

Advanced beginner, project based instructions

Kerstin Martensson Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way
Simple basic wardrobe – full size traceable patterns included for tee, dartless blouse, 2 skirts and pants with elastic waist, with simple instructions for pattern alterations.

îks-wardrobeî

Kay Whitt Sew Serendipity
3 basic full-size tissue patterns included. Variations with ideas for fabric combinations and added trims. Instructions have hand drawings in the style of this illustration. A bit more advanced than the Kwik Sew book (includes zips, trims).

”kay-outfit”

The next book is full of embellishment ideas. There must be hundreds of books with little crafty projects, most of which don’t appeal. This town has good libraries and bookstores so I can check out many of them (sadly no full-scope fabric shop !). So I know only a very small number of these books are to my taste. This must be a very individual matter, so there’s no guarantee the ones I like will suit other people.
For some reason I do return to Get the most from your sewing machine by Marion Elliot, inspires me to have fun with my sewing. Being inconsistent, I don’t actually use the projects in this book. But there are so many suggestions for other things to do with the techniques.

out of print

Garments for beginners
An alternative to the Kwik Sew book. Project sequence of similar garments, though no patterns included (and these days there’s no simple wardrobe pattern for wovens). Simple jacket and vest but no basic blouse. A bit easier than the Kwik Sew book as it doesn’t include collars or pattern alterations. The advantage is this has photos of technique, which I prefer.

Patricia Moyes Sewing Basics
A technique book but organised by type of garment, e.g. all the techniques you can choose between to make pants. No jacket linings or notch collars. More advanced than the Kwik Sew and Kay Whitt books, photos and line drawings.

– – –

Intermediate – wardrobe pattern books

Alison Smith Dressmaking
12 basic patterns supplied for classic styles, with 19 simple pattern variations, excellent detailed technique photos. Could be used as a project sequence. Patterns have to be enlarged from squared diagrams, or downloaded.

”tops”

”skirts”

”pants”

”dresses”

(P.S. There can probably never be one sewing book that’s ideal for everyone, as we all have different clothing and learning styles.
The patterns in The Great British Sewing Bee book by Tessa Eveleigh are prettier, and it includes beginner projects and home dec.
But the technical instruction in Alison Smith’s Dressmaking book is very much better. And it goes 3 sizes bigger.)

I also enjoy the style of Japanese sewing books, available from Simply Pretty.
Slouchy crafter casual.
Very visual presentation of technique. Full size traceable patterns included, though usually only small sizes (Extra Large has 38 in. hips !) I have several of these but none stands out as ‘the’ one. Several have been translated into English but none of my favourites.

– – –

Intermediate – Pockets

A specialist little group. Apart from changing fabric or trim, changing pockets is the easiest way to make the same pattern again and make it look different. There are several out-of-print books on sewing them.

Patricia Moyes Just Pockets
Claire Shaeffer Sew any patch pocket
Claire Shaeffer Sew any set-in pocket

– – –

Intermediate – reference books on general technique

Cole & Czachor Professional sewing techniques for designers
High-end RTW boutique sewing. Mainly written instructions, so not for beginners.

Sandra Betzina More Fabric Savvy
Practical details of needle sizes, stitches, threads, technique. for sewing many fabrics.

out of print

Threads magazine Easy Guides (Sewing Companion Library)
Full of information and inspiration.

Vogue Sewing Book 1970 edition
Vogue Sewing Book 1982 edition
Famous tomes.

– – –

Other media for advice on sewing ?
There are a lot of suggestions for on-line videos and DVDs in my posts on learning, if you prefer demos to books (see Index page 8). And many links in the right-hand menu.

I also collect 19C sewing books so yes, I’ve got many sewing books I like !

Hope you find pleasure, supportive guidance, inspiration that is right for you 😀

– – –

Links available June 2013

= = =

Comments: Be the first to comment

« Older Entries
Newer Entries »