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Your personal basic wardrobe plan

April 29, 2011

What are your most basic wardrobe needs ?
Long Holiday Weekend thoughts, and appropriate when the son of someone who was famously stylish is getting married today.

I’ve been reviewing what people suggest for wardrobe plans. The same items keep being mentioned as essential, many of which I never wear (Little Black Dress, blue jeans). And some of the things I always wear are never mentioned (lots of layers). Most of the plans aren’t relevant to other people round here either. (I did see someone wearing a black blazer ten days ago, though it was silk and unstructured. Yesterday there was an edgy one lined with stripes and worn with leggings. Not, I suspect, what the people who say you must have a black blazer are thinking of.)

My reactions helped me recognise my priorities, so here they are in case they help you too.

Of course wardrobe planning is more effective when you know your most flattering colours and shapes. And your personal style. And the needs of your lifestyle.
And after a classic closet clearout, so you only have things you love which are flattering and in good condition. (YouLookFab has a new post on closet editing.)

This is about how many clothes and other items you need, so you can fill in the gaps. (I’m surprised to find how many things I wear all the time, yet never think of having more than one of. . .)

– – –

Here’s a list of basic types of garment :

coat, raincoat, cape.
jackets.
casual jackets such as knits, shirt jackets, shrugs, or hoodies.
vests.
pullover layering tops, such as sweaters, tunics, or overblouses.
sleeveless tops and camisoles.
casual tops.
short sleeved tops.
blouses, shirts.
pants, crops, shorts.
jeans.
leggings.
jumpsuits.
skirts.
jumper dresses.
dresses.
protective clothes, such as aprons, coveralls.
special requirements for hobbies, sports, work.

Here’s a wardrobe.pdf of the list, to download and print.
Wheee, I’ve learned how to include a pdf 😀

– – –

Suggestions for using the list :

Add notes on the list if there are items you want to expand to make more distinctions, or garments you want to add.

Cross off all the items which you never or very rarely wear.
Cross them off thickly so you can’t read the words.

Use the left margin to write in these numbers.
For the remaining items :
do you wear them daily – mark with a 4
do you wear them weekly – mark with a 2

Anything worn less often – mark with a 1 if it’s essential even in a minimum wardrobe.
Otherwise leave it out.

The 4, 2, 1 tell you how many of these you need, minimum.

Have you got a clothes ‘signature’ – something you always wear or would like to wear ? Do you usually wear one type of garment, or perhaps one colour, or a type of fabric, or a type of trim. Or your signature might be a style element, perhaps a type of collar or pocket.

Put a special star by your ‘signature’ 😀
If you like to wear a ‘signature’, this is the first item to pay extra attention to, and expand beyond the smallest practical number.

A separate part of the plan :
Make sure you have an outfit for any rare event that may happen without much warning.
For example I’m retired and only wear casual clothes. But I make sure I have one outfit for a very formal daytime event such as a funeral. And one outfit for a very formal evening event such as a black tie dinner or concert. (We do have those here, and they’re in buildings with minimal heating.)

– – –

And that’s your own personal minimum wardrobe plan, the fewest clothes to cover your needs.

Have you got those numbers of items ?

Better than nothing.

Are they flattering and in your style, items that you love ?

Do they make outfits ?
Or preferably co-ordinates – do all 4 items go with all 4 items in another group ? such as all tops go with all or most bottoms, all or most layers ?

What does that tell you about your priorities for adding to your wardrobe ?

What colours, fabrics, styles would be best for adding outfits ?

Are they items you would enjoy sewing yourself ?

Are you going to buy or sew ?

– – –

For me it did make a difference to make a written version.
I’m surprised how quickly it focussed attention on what I need.
But I am a ‘seeing things written in front of me’ person.

You might like to make separate lists for summer and winter.
Or for work clothes separate from casual clothes.
Or for special evenings. Or for pool/ beach.
Or halve the numbers for a travel wardrobe.

Um, do you need separate lists for what you actually wear now, and what you would like to wear. . .

– – –

I crossed out over half the things on the list.

Hmm, my favourite layering pullover tops and shirt jackets aren’t even mentioned in most wardrobe plans. At work it was always a turtle-neck cashmere sweater, or unusual blouses and watches. They don’t get much of a mention either.

Everyone’s needs will be individual and special. The numbers and types of clothes you need are very different for a person who lives in tees and jeans compared to someone who moves between gym, boardroom, opera. That’s why most published wardrobe plans are disappointing. Of course it’s marvellous if we find one that works for us. But I usually feel they’re devised for someone who has a different lifestyle, different personal style, different shape, different colouring. . .

Some wardrobe proposals are specific about styles and colours. Others are more general. The ones closest to my needs are Eileen Fisher’s capsules (many posts here), and the Sewing Workshop layering wardrobe (here’s my post on that). Many people with more classic taste love Tim Gunn’s 10 essential elements. (I haven’t seen his book.)

Here’s an example of how to be flexible with other people’s ideas. I can adapt Tim Gunn’s list to my own needs quite easily :

Trench Coat [mine has a button-in warm lining]
Jacket / blazer [no black or tailoring for me]
Bonus trendy item [for me a layering tunic or shirt jacket]
Sweatsuit Alternative top – comfortable fabric [for me a thick sweater or fleece]

Dress Pants
Jeans [chinos for me]
Sweatsuit Alternative bottom – comfortable fabric [cords for me]
Skirt

Classic Shirt [several]
Any Occasion Top /cashmere sweater

plus not for me :
Day Dress
Basic Black Dress
Instead I’d add an essential padded vest in winter.

Someone in a hot climate who loves dresses would make very different changes to this basic list 😀 Perhaps :

Trench Coat [light rainwear or a trench styled jacket]
Jacket / blazer [light evening layer]

Jeans [crops or shorts, in light fabric]
Sweatsuit Alternative bottom – comfortable fabric [skirt]
Skirt

Classic Shirt [blouse]
Any Occasion Top
Sweatsuit Alternative top – comfortable fabric [camisole or halter top]

Day Dress
Basic Black Dress [black only if it makes you look your best]
Bonus trendy item [dress]
Dress pants [replace with workwear dress]

These things are aids, not set in stone !

Do a search for ‘wardrobe basics’ to find many more possibilities. If you search for ‘wardrobe plan’ you get all the entries for all wardrobe contests at Stitchers Guild and Pattern Review – inspirational for style but not a wide range of garment types !

– – –

How about the same planning for accessories :

hats, caps, head coverings
gloves, mittens
scarves, snoods, neck rings
belts
pantyhose, tights, stockings
socks
flat shoes
heeled shoes
boots
purses, handbags
totes, baskets, backpacks, phone and laptop cases
umbrella
watch
eyeglasses, sunglasses
necklaces
earrings
bracelets
pins, brooches
rings
special accessories for children, hobbies, sports, work

Here’s an accessories.pdf

What do you absolutely have to carry with you ? What is the most effective way to carry them all ? (extra pockets in clothes ?)

Have you got a ‘signature’ accessory ?
Some of you may want to list many different types of shoes or bags or hats 😀

How well do your accessories co-ordinate with your clothes ? can you make outfits including shoes, plus bags, scarves or whatever else you wear and carry ?

Do you ever go straight from work to a dressy evening out ? You might think out accessories to achieve this, as part of your wardrobe plan.

– – –

And here’s an underwear and nightwear list :

bras
camisoles, tanks, shells
full length slips/ petticoats
waist length slips/ petticoats
briefs, panties, etc.
teddies
‘long john’ tops and bottoms
shapers
night gowns
pyjama tops
pyjama bottoms
robes
bed jackets
bed socks
slippers

Here’s a lingerie.pdf

Make sure you’ve got everything you need to wear under your main outfits. Are any of your clothes transparent ? Underwear needs to co-ordinate too. What do you not mind showing ?

– – –

Of course when you’re filling your wardrobe gaps, it’s best if the new items go with at least two items you’ve already got. Make sure you end up with wearable outfits. For many people, co-ordinates are better still, but often a goal to work towards rather than something achievable quickly.

When you start it can be discouraging to realise how far you are from your best. Remember Princess Diana took several years to transform from frumpy to her own style. She certainly didn’t get it right every time.

Have a Happy Holiday weekend getting a clear idea of what you like and need.
What are your priorities ?
Choose beautiful flattering patterns and fabrics and start sewing.

Make Sewing and Wearing A Pleasure 😀

– – –

Links available April 2011

– – –

To get to main blog, click on red header.

= = =

Categories: wardrobe planning

Comments: 11 Comments

The power of the boring

February 19, 2011

Here’s the power of simple items to add flexibility to your wardrobe. By instantly adding many more different outfits. Of course this is classic wardrobing advice. But I find it helpful to be reminded.

People who like ‘statement pieces’ won’t be happy with this idea 😀 Nor is it much use to people who live in such warm climates you never wear added layers.

Following on from my post about some basic wardrobe capsules with trendy styling for the coming summer, here’s another group of quiet soft casuals. This is my favourite capsule from the new Vogue January 2011 patterns :

”janwrdrb”

shirt Vogue 8716.
top Vogue 8710.
vest Vogue 8713.
jacket Vogue 8714.
pants Vogue 8715.

From these I could make 3 outfits of 2 pieces :
top with pants
shirt with pants
jacket with pants.
(If you use a vest style with front closure so you can wear it without a top under, that would add another look.)

A choice of pieces to layer over the top – big shirt, vest, or jacket, which give very different looks. So that adds 3 more outfits. 6 different ones in all. Layer vest over shirt, 2 more outfits.

”4outfits15”

I’ve only shown the basic looks which include the top and no third layer vest, or the drawings get a bit big !

In an ideal layering wardrobe (see my take on the Sewing Workshop version) the jacket layers over the vest layers over the shirt layers over the top. To give the maximum number of different combinations and levels of warmth. But that isn’t possible with this particular pattern group.

If you made a second version of any of these layering pieces, their style elements are so distinctive it might be obvious you were wearing something similar, even though the colour or fabric had changed.

But if you add another tee and pants, the number of different outfits increases dramatically.

This shows the power of the boring.

Add a second top in a clearly different colour/ print/ texture. That adds 5 more looks, so the number of outfits goes up from 8 to 13. The diagram only shows the 8 outfits which use the tops. There are also the 2 made from the shirt or jacket with the pants. And the ones with vest over shirt.

”8wredtops”

Add another pair of pants. The 16 basic combinations are in the diagram, plus 4 from the shirt or jacket worn with a choice of pants, and more from vest layered over shirt.

”16redbrown”

(The added top and bottom can of course both be the same colour/ print/ texture.)

You’ve added 2 simple garments, making 7 items in all. And the number of combinations has gone up from 5 items making 8 outfits to 7 items making at least 25. A powerful example of the effectiveness of supplying yourself with basic co-ordinates.

(P.S. As an extreme example of this, see Janice of The Vivienne Files make 208 outfits from 33 garments.
And another post from 2015 at Vivienne Files on getting 45 outfits from 9 garments which shows photos of all the outfits (good for travel).
3 second layers (which can all also be worn alone)
3 tops
3 bottoms
gives
18 2 item outfits
27 3 item outfits.)

– – –

Even for very simple items with almost no added style elements, you choose your own best colours, and the silhouette/ neckline/ sleeve and body lengths, etc. that are right for you.

And this approach to increasing the effectiveness of your wardrobe needn’t fill you with gloomy despair at its lack of creativity. Have a look at Marcy Tilton’s gallery of what she has done with her Vogue tee patterns (many pages of them). And her CD on fitting, making and decorating tees.

Or Shirley Adams’ Alternatives 500 pattern with multiple different version of a shell.

There’s an almost infinite number of ways you can embellish and add interest to a simple top 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available February 2011

Categories: specific capsules, wardrobe planning

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Building and personalising your capsule

January 29, 2011

Here’s a possible basic group of co-ordinates : the whole ‘cheat sheet for getting dressed’ from Eileen Fisher’s Personal Shopper section for November to February 2011.

”

My previous post suggested patterns for these.

How could you build up to having a group of clothes like this ? (apart from making the whole thing rapidly in one Stitchers Guild SWAP 😀 ).
And how can you adapt it for yourself if this is not right for you ?

– – –

Building from season to season

If you’re just beginning to build a wardrobe of co-ordinates, you might start with the four items from Eileen Fisher’s early summer ‘system’ from last year (jacket, top, skirt, pants).

At the moment, Eileen Fisher’s Personal Shopper section has a simple ’Essentials’ group of 7 items. These could be basics for all seasons :
– tops : 1 camisole top, 1 cap sleeved top, 2 long sleeved tops.
– bottoms : 1 leggings, 2 pants,

If you’ve already got the skirts, pants and sleeveless tops from previous groupings, then all you need to add are some (flared) long sleeved tops, and a warmer (banded collar) jacket. See my previous post for pattern suggestions.

Louise Cutting in ‘Cutting through the clutter’ (in Booklets section) suggests a similar starter ‘weekend wardrobe’ of 7 items :
1 jacket,
2 short sleeved tops,
2 long sleeved tops,
2 pants.
For her ‘basic wardrobe’ she expands the 7 to 11 items by adding :
another jacket,
1 sleeveless top,
2 skirts.
Once you’ve got the basics, she suggests changing the fabrics to have clothes that look professional, dressy, or casual, suitable for travel or your climate.

– – –

How many items do you need for your minimum wardrobe ?

To extend the wardrobe building idea, there’s Elizabeth’s plan of making 6 items each season. This builds up to a wardrobe of 24 items which co-ordinate throughout the year. This scheme is used in seasonal sewalongs at Stitchers Guild.

Or go in the other direction and minimise the number of clothes. There are several ideas for using only 6 garments. Lisette is choosing from the same 6 items every day for 30 days. Her 6 items are : tee, shirt, cardi, pants, jeggings, dress. Or here’s a shopper’s diet idea that consists of : jacket, 2 shirts, tee, pants, jeans. It seems you’re allowed an infinite number of accessories, which does make it easier to produce different looks 😀

This idea could make you focus on multi-purpose garments. In her book “Sewing a Travel Wardrobe”, Kate Mathews describes a reversible top which can be worn inside out and back to front – and is made of 4 clearly different fabrics.

I think the economic issues are a bit more complex than ‘owning only 6 items will save the world’. Modern economies depend on people buying things they don’t need. But it’s an interesting exercise. If you were only allowed to dress from 6 items (not counting under- and outer-wear), which clothes would you choose?

And would 6 be the right number for you ? In winter I wear several layers together. I can imagine a month in mid-winter when I would wear all 6 items every day, just to keep warm. I don’t think that’s what’s intended with this idea 😀 You’re supposed to arrange things so people don’t notice you’re wearing the same things repeatedly.

Perhaps 10 or 12 items would be a better minimum for me. Early in my blogging I wrote about a tunic wardrobe and decided I need at least 10 items, 2 each of pants, shirt, thin sweater, thicker layer, vest. Then there’s my take on the Sewing Workshop layering wardrobe, which gets up to 8 items without duplicating function, 16 if you have two of each.

– – –

Start with simple basics

Eileen Fisher uses very simple shapes, but her clothes are luxurious because of the quality fabrics. (I’m assuming of course that we all do quality workmanship so I don’t need to mention it 😀 ) And there are many ways of making the same styles look different by using different fabrics, see my post on Kate Mathews’ wardrobe plans.

This approach to dressing uses simple basic shapes for bottoms and first layer tops. It’s the added over-layers which have more variety. In the Eileen Fisher capsules the jackets change the most each season. Of course the tops and bottoms are renewed in fabrics and details, but there’s not much change in the overall shape.

Though it is a mistake to think a basic shell top must necessarily be boring. Have a look at Shirley Adams Alternatives 500 series pattern 501, which includes nearly 30 ways of varying a shell by adding embellishments and seams. There are many other changes in another pattern, using different neckline shapes, collars, dart alterations, and wraps.

”alternativeshells”
Alternatives pattern 501

I talked a bit about using a small group of basic patterns to build a co-ordinated wardrobe, in my post on reducing the number of garment shapes.

Although the jackets in the Eileen Fisher capsules do change in style each season, the previous season’s styles are current classics and not outdated. You can certainly continue to wear the cascade styles from Eileen Fisher’s early Summer 2010 capsule.

WordPress recently told me what was most active in my blog during 2010. There’s that Butterick 5472 wardrobe with the cascade jacket I suggested for copying Eileen Fisher’s version. Out of all the patterns I’ve given links to, this is the pattern that the most people wanted to know more about.

”b5472”

– – –

Your own needs

The more serious question is : does the Eileen Fisher capsule suit your needs ? your body shape, your lifestyle, your personal style ?

Simplify the EF capsule to :
1 jacket
2 long sleeved tops
3 sleeveless tops
3 pants or leggings
3 skirts.

What about the general types and numbers of each item ?
Not much good for people who like dresses or jumper dresses.
And I would have no use for so many skirts, while some people rarely wear pants.
I’d like some vests instead, for more warmth ! (and for the same reason I rarely need a sleeveless top).
People who need power dressing may prefer more jackets rather than tunic tops.

What about the style elements of each item ?
I use shirt-blouses for my first layer rather than sleeveless tops (there are a couple of soft shirts on the main Eileen Fisher site).
And I haven’t got the legs to look good in skin-tight pants and short skirts.
Also in winter I want a jacket that fastens up to the neck, for warmth.
Many people would not feel happy in the generally longer styles.
People with waists might prefer their tops and jackets more fitted.
People who are larger above the waist than below may not look good in flared styles.
As I have a pear body shape, I need a bit of flare. But I need to be careful with styles which use flare as a style element, as I really need upper body emphasis.
Power dressing is easiest with a more structured jacket (though at work I used the highest quality to achieve a power effect with an unstructured style).
And many people like more structured styles anyway.

There are two interesting strands at Stitchers Guild which show what different ideas people have about their ideal minimum garments :
Your tried n true patterns, and why
What constitutes a classic wardrobe

– – –

Your own style

What’s the core style for your most basic most useful wardrobe items ?
Perhaps the last thing you enjoy wearing is plain tees, skirts and pants without any added style elements 😀 If you rarely wear jackets or added layers, you’ll want some of your tops and bottoms to be ‘statement pieces’.

It’s certainly much easier to follow someone else’s capsule suggestion. If you’d like a similar group of co-ordinates though not Eileen Fisher styles, you have to find a way to cut down on the almost infinite possibilities.

It’s an advantage of using independent patterns. The Big 4 try to cater for all tastes, which some people find confusing. It’s simpler to choose one pattern you really like, from an independent. Then pick the rest of the pattern group from the same designer. They’re likely to be in the same style. Choose patterns with potential for easy changes to sleeve and body length and neckline/ collar. I’ve already talked about some sources of independent patterns, both well established and more recent.

If you don’t want to work your way through all the companies individually, start from a retailer who lists patterns by type of garment. Here are some sources for jackets :
The Sewing Place (230 jacket patterns ! And they don’t even sell the Big 4.)
Nancy’s Notions
Craft Connection

Find a pattern you like. Get the pattern company name from the pattern envelope photo, and search for them so you can see their whole pattern line. Most pattern companies sell their patterns on-line now.

– – –

Some of us would find it a relaxing relief to have a wardrobe devised for us. The Big4 pattern companies suggest wardrobe patterns. Most style books include wardrobe plans. For me they give pleasure and food for thought, though I’ve never wanted to follow one of them exactly. But by thinking how to change them so they suit me better, I learn about my own needs and likes.

There are also many ideas for building a wardrobe of co-ordinates. The simplest is Endless Combinations. Just check that everything you make or buy goes with at least 2 items you already have, love wearing and find flattering.

Despite knowing their limitations, I haven’t been able to resist suggesting several capsules with different styles. This all went on too long so that has become a separate post. . .

Good Fortune for your own choices, about how many clothes you have, as well as what styles, colours, and shapes they are 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available January 2011

Categories: personal style, wardrobe planning

Comments: 2 Comments

Update your capsule wardrobe

January 15, 2011

Update your basic capsule of stylish casuals for the winter. I’m getting to this a bit late ! but these are ‘transitional’ styles.

In the current Personal Shopper section of the Eileen Fisher site, there’s a .pdf of styles for November to February 2011. This includes a “Cheat Sheet for getting dressed” with 12 items. A basic wardrobe of co-ordinates.

Oh, absolutely everything is black, except the jeans which are dark indigo. Well, let’s ignore that. . . happily we can choose our own best colours. Making everything out of the same fabric would certainly simplify things 😀 but Eileen Fisher adds interest by using both wovens and knits, with a wide variety of surface textures and fibre types.

– – –

Bottoms

Three slim skirts of different lengths

”ef1-11skirts” Eileen Fisher

Three pants of different widths : leggings, slim pants, jeans

” Eileen Fisher

Not much different from the skirts and pants in the Summer co-ordinates, which I’ve already talked about.

– – –

Sleeveless tops

Three sleeveless tops with narrow straps and different lengths

” Eileen Fisher

Again similar to the tops I talked about in the summer.

– – –

Tops with sleeves

And two sleeved long tunics for more warmth.

” Eileen Fisher

Flared and scoop necked, different amounts of flare and different length sleeves. A new pattern needed here.

One problem with mimicking these is the flare shape. A simple solution is to lengthen and flare a favourite top pattern.

Start from something like McCall’s 6244

”m6244plus”

But if you’d rather have the work done for you, there are some possibilities.

Vogue 8542 has dropped shoulders. Easier to co-ordinate if you level the hem.

”v8542”

Also for knits there’s raglan sleeved McCall’s 6205.

”m6205”
(the neck ring is separate)

While for wovens, there’s Butterick 5390

”b5390”

For more visual interest, there are several tops on the Eileen FIsher main site with draped necklines, and many patterns in that style. A recent one is Very Easy Vogue 8669

”v8669”

Not so convenient for layering under a jacket.

For an independent pattern, there are the striking Alex and Olive tops from The Sewing Workshop.

”alexolive”

– – –

Jacket

And one jacket.

”ef1-11cardi” Eileen Fisher

They’ve chosen a flared long cardigan with neckline band.
The text says it has a peplum, but that isn’t obvious from the drawing. A longer warmer version of one of the layers in the summer capsule.

Which is the most flattering longer length for you ? at low hip, or thigh ?

If you’re larger above the waist or the same size above and below, then the flared shape isn’t essential. And it’s easy to find patterns for straight sided cardigan jackets. Just add length to a shorter style.

Those of us who are larger of hip may need to start from a straight pattern and flare the side seams.

Also adjust the neck band to the right width and sewn down like the Eileen Fisher style, if need be and you prefer that look.

For a knit jacket pattern, there’s McCalls 6084

”m6084”

For an independent pattern, perhaps Christine Jonson’s Swing Jacket 519. Looks as if it would be fairly easy to simplify to a top. (Make the top a smaller size so the jacket will layer over it.)

”cjswing”

There are several similar jackets in wardrobe patterns. Perhaps lengthen and flare the jacket pattern and alter the neck band. With small changes, these patterns could make a wardrobe quite like the Eileen Fisher one. Here are a couple for knits.

Butterick 5398

”b5398wrdrb”

And from Nancy Zieman in McCall’s 6247

”m6247”

Or of course choose your own jacket style. It just needs to be long enough and wide enough and with big enough armholes, to layer comfortably over those long sleeved tops.

– – –

Perhaps the word ‘update’ is misleading. Although the specific patterns I’ve mentioned are recent, they’re current classics rather than trendy one-season-only designs.

If you would like some ‘of the moment’ details, UK In Style magazine February issue goes for :
– white blazers,
– smock tops,
– maxi dresses,
– wild floral ‘garden party’ fabrics,
– big stitch knits,
– lots of added fringe,
– platform sole shoes with -very- high heels.

And of course I have a whole lot to say about the Eileen Fisher capsule as a whole, and how well it meets personal needs. This got much too long, so I’ve made that a separate post.

And if you don’t like planning in detail ?!
Just clarify the spirit of your capsule, as a guiding light that protects you from going too far astray. . .
Whichever way you go :
Happy Wardrobe in the coming year 😀

– – –

Patterns and links available January 2011

Categories: co-ordinates, Eileen Fisher, wardrobe planning

Comments: 3 Comments

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