Archive for the ‘style and planning’ category

So many choices

September 10, 2011

It’s not at all simple to find the clothes that work best for us. There are so many choices. And much of the advice out there isn’t good for everyone. So we have to try things out, and be able to move on when they aren’t right.

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What helps us look good

Body shape :
pear/ triangle, inverted triangle, rectangle, apple/ round, hourglass.
There are also more detailed distinctions, such as inverted triangles with wide shoulders or large cup size. I found Trinny & Susannah’s ‘Body Shape Bible’ very helpful on understanding my short-waisted pear shape, but some people don’t like that book. Many details of our body shape affect what looks good on us. And we only learn by trying and looking. (See my post with comments on pant styles, for two very different detailed accounts of ‘what works’ – fascinating.)

I have a whole lot of body shape features which aren’t dealt with by ‘easy fitting’ aids and aren’t mentioned in most books on fit. I’ve gradually learned about most of my fitting needs, but had some I was stumped on. Happily I’ve recently found the ‘big bible’ book “Fitting and Pattern Alteration” by Liechty, Rasband and Pottberg-Steineckert. It’s a great relief to know what my final fit issues are and what to do about them.

Colouring :
Many people like the seasonal approach to personal colour. But it doesn’t work well for me – I’m a mixture of warm and cool. I use the colours from David Zyla ‘The Color of Style’. (Colours from hair, skin, eyes – my colour check is a lock from my salt ’n pepper hair.) Though I don’t use my colours in the way he suggests. And that too doesn’t work well for everyone. There are many other methods. Some people only manage to find ‘their’ most flattering colours by experimenting.
There’s also good advice on colour and contrast from Nancy Nix-Rice.

Imogen Lamport has much useful guidance about colour and body shape in her blog.

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What helps us feel good

Key items :
Nearly all wardrobe plans are based round : jacket, top, skirt, pants.
Very rarely there’s a mention of : jacket, dress, top, skirt.
But what I wear is never mentioned : blouse, overshirt/ tunic, vest, pants. Jackets only for outerwear. Skirts only for special occasions. Happily the pattern companies are aware of this style, even if most wardrobe plan writers aren’t !

What are the items you like to wear ?
See my post on a personal wardrobe plan.

Personal style :
So many books on finding your style. Many writers use a basic four categories : classic, romantic, casual, dramatic. Yes I can sort of see myself here. But many women need different styles at different times :
work : classic
dressy evening out : romantic or dramatic
at home/ weekend : casual
exercise : sporty.
Some authors (such as David Kibbe and Judith Rasband) put all styles on a line from soft unstructured to angular tailored. I’m not happy with the idea that all human variety is one-dimensional !

And there are many different versions of the main style groupings – what type of ‘dramatic’: edgy, arty, fashionista, red carpet, vintage, hip-hop, goth, boho. . . ? I find it helpful to understand how my ‘minor’ styles affect my ‘major’ style. Okay I definitely wear casual clothes, comfortable and practical, but not sweats and sports gear or tees and jeans. I choose tunic-vest-pants rather than dresses or tailoring. But I like the soft textures and heirloom trims of a romantic, and the quality, basic shapes and neutral colours of a classic.

For me, in most wardrobe advice books there’s too little on ‘casual’ styles. Many writers think ’casual’ means people who don’t care about clothes and need to brush their hair, put on mascara, and generally sharpen up. But that misses the majority of modern styles, which include many ways of feeling relaxed yet looking stylish. See my previous post on styles in the English shops this season. For ideas from a professional stylist see YouLookFab’s posts on individual style. She also has many interesting questions in her Team X or Team Y section. And there’s Imogen Lamport’s personal style section.

Lifestyle :
Thankfully this is a simple option for me. I’m retired and wear informal clothes, which suits my personal style. Little need for businesslike, dressy, or exercise wear. Nowadays lifestyle is an area of clothing decisions where I don’t have to deal with a whole lot of complications 😀 People who love tailored clothes have much more difficulty finding a style they’re happy with when they retire.

Colour personality :
Do you prefer brights or neutrals ? contrast or monochrome ? see Imogen Lamport.

Clothing values :
What is most important to us about clothes – cost, comfort, fashion, effect on others ? see my post.

Wardrobe variety :
Do you like a lot of variety in your styles ? Do you have many different moods to dress for ? Do you like a constant supply of new clothes ? Or do you want a simple wardrobe ? Do you want many different outfits, or is that not important for you ? Do you like your clothes to be co-ordinates ? or to have free choice ? To dress without thinking ? or to enjoy finding new combinations and new accessory styling ? Or both, on alternate days 😀

And do you like to wear simple clothes, or ones with added style elements or embellishment ? No extras, or many accessories such as scarves, belts, jewellery, eye-catching shoes and bags ? A simple outfit or a complex one ?

Sewing style :
Do you prefer sewing that’s easy or advanced, quick or slow, knits or wovens. . .
So which are the clothes it would be better to buy ?

All these points to consider – I can fall in a deep pit of ‘analysis paralysis’. It’s a great relief to make dolls’ clothes – they don’t have to fit or be flattering or even co-ordinate 😀

What is your method for helping yourself to ‘just do it’ when you get stuck ?

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So many choices, no wonder we have difficulty sorting it all out ! I usually don’t fit the simple alternatives. Don’t know whether this is a cause for despair, or whether it just makes it all interesting 😀 At least, after several years of trying things out and exploring, I am beginning to know what is right for me.

Ruthie has recently written about her explorations of this too, in her blog.

I’ve learned a lot from all the times I’ve had to rescue myself from forcing myself to follow advice that is not right for me !

Take it slowly and enjoy each ‘aha’ 😀

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Links available September 2011

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Progress : there are some pictures in next week’s post !

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Modern personal styles ?

September 3, 2011

I receive many mail order clothes catalogues. Fascinating 😀 they reflect what people actually choose to wear. Each company has their own ‘market niche’. Realise I unconsciously put them in my own categories. Which don’t match up easily to the ‘personal style’ schemes in many style books.

Some initial thoughts :

Of course there are the classic tailored classics. Tailored blazer, straight or pleated skirt, tailored fly front pants, band collar shirt or notched collar blouse, twinset knits. Chanel jacket and bow collar blouse, shirt dress or sheath dress for a softer look. Court shoes. Perfect hair, make-up and nails. Several variants of this style – elegant, uniform, glamourous – depending on details of cut and fabric. Worn with slight changes in detail for over 60 years. No wonder they’re called classics. Many people feel their happiest in this style. Many more people wear classics for work or when they want to look responsible.

Here are some of the other style possibilities offered this season, based on catalogues and local people watching (my category names, this doesn’t come from a fashion industry expert :D) :

– relaxed business : softer suits with flowing blouses and interesting knit tops.

– country tweeds.

– classic casuals : tees, polos, fleeces, hoodies, shirts, jeans, chinos, denim, plaid, loafers, blazers, padded jackets.

– dresses and leggings : sassy : thigh length dresses, short skirts with high hip knit tops or sweaters, tunics and leggings, bold prints, softer blazers, pea coats.

– dresses : soft : similar but longer and drapey, florals.

– layered : multiple tops worn together, unstructured vests, texture or ethnic prints, thigh length chunky (knit) jackets, pants, parkas.

some subgroups of the layered look :

    eco : chunky tops in natural colours, with slim jeans and big boots.
    soft : floaty tops, ‘romantic’ or ‘peasant’ trims, with loose pants or long flared skirts, ballet flats.
    active practical : sweats and drill/ camo, active sports clothes worn for everyday, sports shoes or Doc Martens.

– trendy : sassy or layered but with ‘this season’ details (polka dots is the easy one this year), crisper shapes, and care with styling and accessories.

– edgy : angular and black, includes ‘rock chick’.

– arty : square oversized pieces.

– prestige : expensive ‘look at me’ pieces.

There are other ‘street’ styles, which I don’t get sent catalogues for ! such as : hip-hop, goth, lolita, grunge. And styles for fashionable areas with trendy bars and partying : vintage glamour, disco bling, military/ safari. These are all “big city” styles which aren’t seen round here.

Some companies aim to cover many current styles, instead of focussing on one. Look at the Next site for the styles they offer this season :
Smart Casual : Hoxton Girl [a trendy area in east London], Desert Dream, Colour Pop, Polka Dots.
Tailored Looks : Future Brights, Graphic Style, Formal Style, Tailoring.
Casual Wear : Downtown Casual, Urban Casuals, Pretty Tough, Modern Native.
Denim.
Signature [drapey]

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Like most people, I buy from several companies. And I keep seeing people wearing different combinations. There must be many variations.

The key point is that these days ‘casual’ doesn’t mean only interested in comfort and otherwise not interested in clothes. There are many stylish ways of looking relaxed.

Three very different specialist clothing shops survive in this university suburb. (Actually most of the clothes for sale here are pre-used in charity shops !) They focus on the classic casuals and layered (standard, soft, active) styles. Many students wear the ‘eco’ look, but not enough to support a local shop. That and the other styles are available two miles away in the city centre (population 150,000, and said not to be good for shopping).

These are just one person’s observations of the current season in a specific English suburb. I suspect there are strong regional variations, with different emphases in France, Germany, Italy, Scandinavia, or different areas in the US and Canada, for example.

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Supplement :

If you’d like some eye candy, or are not sure what I’m talking about, here are typical sources for some of the styles :

Classics : country tweeds : House of Bruar

Classics : minimalism : Pure

Relaxed business : CC

Classic casuals : Lands End

Dresses and leggings : Sassy : Boden, Whistles

Dresses : Soft : East

Layered : Eco : Celtic Sheepskin

Layered : Soft : Poetry

Layered : Active practical : the running/ cycling shop and the football club supporters shop both round the corner. North Face, Adidas Stella McCartney

Trendy : Miss Selfridge, Topshop

Edgy : Zara

Boho chic : Peruvian Connection

Arty : Oska, Wall

Prestige : Madeleine (yes, this catalogue includes a real mink jacket :D)

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To get to main blog, click on red header.

Behind the scenes : hopefully, images and longer discussions will be back in two weeks time. . .

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Links available September 2011

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Nancy Nix-Rice’s minimum wardrobe : Accessories

August 27, 2011

Nancy Nix-Rice has been writing about a basic wardrobe over the last few weeks. (I’m planning posts on possible patterns).

Unusually, Nancy also makes suggestions for accessories.
And using accessory colours to integrate the colours of the clothes.

Colours :

  • dark neutral
  • light neutral
  • accent colour
  • accent colour 2 (optional)
  • mid neutral (optional)
  • Easier but not essential if the neutrals are related colours, such as dark brown/ camel, plum/ dusty rose, black/ grey.
    If you don’t look good in strong contrasts, use darker and lighter rather than dark and light.

    – – –

    Nancy’s accessory suggestions are :

    Belt : dark neutral [reversible to light neutral]

    Shoes : dark neutral
    Shoes 2 (optional) : light neutral

    Bag/ purse : dark neutral with light neutral trim
    Big bag/ tote : dark neutral

    Scarf 1 : dark neutral + light neutral (+ a touch of black if you have it in your wardrobe)
    Scarf 2 : dark neutral + light neutral + accent colour (+ mid neutral optional)
    Scarf 3 (if adding 2nd accent colour) : both neutrals + both accent colours.

    Pashmina shawl (optional) : both neutrals + accent colour

    Necklace 1 : dark neutral + light neutral
    Necklace 2 (optional) : mainly dark neutral
    Necklace 3 (if adding 2nd accent colour) : both accent colours

    P.S. Nancy now has posts on belts and bags to flatter your body shape.

    – – –

    Socks / stockings/ tights/ pantyhose need to co-ordinate in colour as well.

    For a current look, how about adding some leggings or opaque tights (don’t know what they’re called in the US) in one of your 3 key colours. Or in another accent colour if you’ve got the legs for it 😀

    This season you can wear ankle length leggings even under a calf length skirt.

    – – –

    For a current casual look : big scarves are a good way of adding character to a simple outfit. In flattering colours they draw attention to your face. There’s several marvellous scarf tying videos at Eileen Fisher.

    And there’s a fun YouTube video on scarf tying.

    (P.S. Nancy now has a lesson on scarf tying. And here is YouLookFab on scarf styles that don’t shorten your neck. And a website on 37 ways to tie a scarf.)

    The colour, pattern and texture of scarves usually make them the focal point of an outfit.
    3.1 Phillip Lim has a different approach this season. He uses scarves made from the same fabric as the garment they’re worn with. Good idea for using fabric scraps ?

    For a current business look : instead of neutral accessories wear strong colours to brighten up classic neutral outfits. Big bags and shoes in red, blue, yellow, green, orange, purple. See my post on classics for work. Though make sure there’s something else about your outfit that draws attention to you, not to your bag and shoes 😀

    – – –

    UK Vogue says the accessory styles for winter 2011/12 are :

  • Knee-high boots
  • ‘Hug and hold’ bags (basically this is a way of holding a large bag at the base rather than hung from the handle)
  • Mini bags (any style of ornate bag just big enough for a phone and lipstick – more considered as jewellery)
  • Choker necklaces
  • Hats
  • Add touches of sequins or fur as current trims.

    Changing from big tote to one of these Mini bags could be an easy way of going from work to dressy.

    Hats are usually in a dark neutral or an accent colour. Choose an accent colour that makes your skin look good. I find a light neutral more flattering – reflects more light on your face.

    – – –

    Accessories are a good way of introducing your own style when wearing basics.
    What are your personal favourite accessories ? see brief thoughts in my post on a personal wardrobe plan (about 2/3 of the way through).

    YouLookFab has questions about which shoes you like to wear.
    heels or flats
    heels – stiletto or stacked
    sandals or boots
    round toe or pointy toe

    And what is your personal style for jewellery ? I prefer bracelets and pins/ brooches to necklaces or earrings. But they’re not so effective for bringing attention to your face. I prefer collars for that. And there’s a huge variety of possible styles for each jewellery item – dainty or striking, angular or curved, modern or antique, in different materials. . .

    – – –

    There’s a good discussion strand on accessories at Stitcher’s Guild.

    All this has made me think. I realise I don’t usually consider accessories at all. I used to be a bag person, but not since I stopped working. I also used to wear a collection of brooches in different styles, to add a touch of ‘quirky’ to professional clothes.

    If we follow Nancy’s advice, it’s the scarves and jewellery in the right mix of colours that we need to keep an eye open for !

    – – –

    Other posts in this group on Nancy Nix-Rice’s wardrobe plan :
    Neutral Cores, colours, personalising
    Accent colour and print
    Adding extras
    More thoughts
    And related post :
    Two-piece dresses

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    Links available August 2011

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    Next week I’m planning to learn the latest Photoshop Elements. I’ve been using Version 2 and this is Version 9! Then hopefully there will begin to be images again 😀

    Classics for workwear s/s 2011 : jacket, accessories, wardrobe

    June 25, 2011

    Another set of current classics for wearing to work
    With slight tweaks to show they’re ‘of this season’.

    I talked about the shirt, dress, skirt, pants in a previous post. Here’s the jacket and accessories, plus some comments on a wardrobe. And some variations on the classics approach.

    – – –

    Blazer

    ”blazers”
    There’s also a photo of a black one.

    I’ve made many comments on blazers already.
    See my posts on blazer style elements
    and on patterns for last winter’s workwear.

    – – –

    Notches, this season’s gimmick ?

    ‘This season’ tweak : the turned in notch collar.

    ”notches”

    This version of a notched neckline first appeared on runways a couple of seasons ago.

    Originally made in a similar way to a blazer but with the collar turned in.
    McCall’s 6206 has this collar, though not at all a blazer shape.

    ”m6206”

    Happily there is an easy way of getting the notch. A neckline band with a break in it, shown clearly on the white shirt with black band.

    – – –

    Colour and accessories

    The In Style clothes are all black white and tan, with one red jacket.

    All the colour is in the accessories – the clear colours of this season’s colour blocking. And accessories are the easiest way of looking trendy/ current when you’re wearing classics.

    A big slouchy bag,

    ”bags”

    Perhaps Hot Patterns HP1023 Handbag Heaven Metropolitan Homage Tote.

    ”hphomagetote”

    Complete your outfit with wedge heel shoes with thick soles.

    ”shoes”

    If those aren’t your style, wear ballet flats, kitten heels, or knee high boots with open toe and heel.

    Blue, green, red, purple. Orange and yellow are also strong colours of the season.

    – – –

    Wardrobe plan ?

    With one each of the original In Style items (shirt, shirtdress, jacket, pants) that just makes 4 possible outfits.

    If you made a shirt and matching skirt, instead of the shirtdress, you’d have 2 tops, 2 bottoms and a jacket. 5 items and 8 possible outfits.

    Add a blouse/ top and the pleated skirt into the mix, and you get 18 outfits from 7 items. Nearly a month of work days.

    Add another jacket (cascade, revers, or asymmetric). Makes 27 different outfits if all 8 items co-ordinate.

    ”wardrobe”

    These blacks and whites don’t match up properly, but hopefully this gives the general idea. Use either blue whites or cream whites. And choose between black and navy.

    If you don’t look good in black, white and tan ?
    Choose your own favourite neutrals.
    Many people, me included, don’t look good in dark colours. Many don’t look good in white. So think of darker and lighter of one neutral. And add a different neutral in between.
    Cheer yourself up with colourful accessories !

    It’s especially important to wear colours that make your skin tone look good, if you want to look effective. ‘Washed out’ is not a powerful look !

    So this group makes a fairly obvious wardrobe.
    But if you’d like other wardrobe planning suggestions for work, here are a couple.

    Perfectly Packed has a ready-made working travel wardrobe of 8 pieces. Includes casual and more dressy items. Look at the interesting choice of fabric and colour to vary the styles. Add colour or go from work to evening by changing jewellery/ scarves/ shoes. She suggests adding a casual shirt, jeans, and a light sweater to cover even more possible occasions, all in one carry-on case.

    You could make this combination yourself by adding a shirt to many wardrobe patterns – check the shirt collar goes with the jacket neckline/ collar. Easy if you use classic jackets such as blazer/ cardigan/ revers styles.

    For Business Casual ideas there are several capsule suggestions from Imogen Lamport. Tailored jackets and formal shirts are replaced by more drapey styles in her Relaxed Business capsule, and by knits in her Business Casual capsule.

    – – –

    My related posts for the winter season, on In Style workwear classics were :
    vest, blazer, coat
    and skirt, dress, pants, shirt.

    How could you soften (or sharpen !) these, if pure classics are not your style ? Most of the shapes are fairly relaxed for a casual look. Use tighter fit or more extreme shapes and sharp angles to look more edgey. Add softer trim, rounded corners, jewellery, scarves, for a prettier effect. Many ways to hint at your own rather different style.

    For some other seasonal ideas, look at In Style magazine site’s more general suggestions for this spring-summer.

    Or You Look Fab’s Must Haves for the season.

    Look good and yourself, as well as effective, at work 😀

    – – –

    Photos from UK In Style magazine

    Patterns and links available June 2011