Sewingplums

A new wardrobe pattern book, ‘Dressmaking’ by Alison Smith, includes good photo instructions for making about 30 garments, based on classic patterns for tops, skirts, pants, dresses, jackets (see my post on the styles included).

This book sparked off so many thoughts, my comments expanded to several posts. I’ve already posted about help for complete beginners and advanced beginners. This is a review of the ‘Dressmaking’ book. I’m writing another post on other routes to intermediate skills.

I have mixed feelings about this book. I like project based learning. It’s good for people who like very classic styles and want to learn intermediate sewing techniques, plus starter skills for pattern altering to make new styles. Very good on technique. But difficult to read and look things up.

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General limitations of the ‘Dressmaking’ book

In this book the typeface is small and low contrast so it’s difficult to see. The pages look lovely, but you have to peer closely to read the text. As this is an instruction book not a coffee-table book, I don’t think this is good book design.

There are pages and pages of tools which you apparently have to have before sewing a single stitch. I’ve been sewing for 70 years and I still haven’t got all of them.

There’s a good general section on altering a pattern to fit, but not much detail. As so often happens, there’s next to nothing on how you know what you need to alter on the pattern, or by how much ! You have to work out for yourself which parts of this are relevant to your project and your body shape. There’s a brief section on making a muslin to test fit, but very little on how to evaluate and alter it. So this is not a book to turn to if you need help with fit. (Index page 2 lists my posts on fit.)

This is a project based book. When techniques are described within projects, you need a good index if you want to look up a technique away from a particular project. Sadly this index is in such dim type you need a strong light to read it. And it’s not good. For example there are a couple of pages on openings (plackets), but they’re not mentioned in the index.
Hmm – 5 out of the first 6 things I looked up in the index aren’t there, though they are in the text.
So once you’ve learned to sew from this book, it’s not so good as a reference afterwards.

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Quality of instructions

I do like the technique instructions in this book. Lots of close-up photos. A huge amount of thought and work must have gone into preparing such detailed and effective illustrations. They give a high level of ‘I could do this’ confidence. (Though there isn’t enough to support complete beginners.)

I’ve read the whole thing and only found :
3 techniques which I think a first-timer would like a bit more help with.
3 techniques where I do things a bit differently. (I finish the neckline treatment while the garment is flat, before sewing the side seams, if possible.)
2 small omissions.
And in 200 pages packed with sewing instructions, there were only 3 steps which I didn’t understand.
Is this a record 😀

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Project based learning

Alison Smith’s other books describe techniques and have drawings rather than photos. This book is about projects. If you work through these projects, you’ll have a good grounding in sewing techniques up to intermediate level, though only for standard weave woven fabrics. But she doesn’t suggest a best sequence for learning. You could choose any project, with minimum guidance on how difficult it is.

If you do want to learn from a sequence of increasing difficulty, it’s probably best to work through all the projects in this book in the order given – from a skirt with darts, zip, waistband, to a lined jacket with lined patch pockets and shawl collar. Not as far as a structured notch-collar blazer. The technical descriptions for later garments are briefer and refer you back to earlier in the book.

If you work through the whole sequence, you’ll learn competent sewing of standard woven fabrics and simple pattern altering. There’s usually only a few clearly explained new skills in each project. It would be a good learning experience to work through all the projects in this book – except that making 31 ultra-classic garments is a major commitment !

I wrote a list of the pattern altering and sewing skills covered in each project in the Dressmaking book, for my own reference.
It won’t be of general interest, but some people who use the book might find it helpful. So here’s a pdf version :
31 projects.A4.pdf
31 projects.USletter.pdf
It might also act as a guide to a sequence of learning intermediate skills.

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When I first got the ‘Dressmaking’ book I wavered wildly for and against. It is difficult to read and find things in. The patterns are ultra classic. I’ve settled on being very impressed with the instructions for technique. Very easy to learn from at intermediate level.

With over 300 large pages, this book is packed with information. But it can’t be all things for all people. The techniques are unusually easy to understand, but you may want to know about other fabrics or styles, easier or more advanced techniques, more guidance about fit.

The techniques included can be used for making a wide variety of styles, not just classics. But the patterns are more limited.
I love project-based learning rather than just working through a list of techniques, but I agree it is difficult to produce projects that everyone wants to make !

This also works well for me as an instruction book as I’m happy to sew at intermediate level. I have little wish to learn more advanced sewing techniques. But for some people that’s their big love. My interests are more in the direction of learning to make my own styles.

Which level of skill are you happiest to sew at 😀

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Links available March 2013

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Once you have some familiarity with using a sewing machine and patterns, there are many possible sewing skills to learn, and many possible paths to learning them.

My thoughts on learning to sew started as a reaction to the book ‘Dressmaking’ by Alison Smith, so although I don’t think that is at beginner level, I do mention it.

My previous post in this group was for complete beginners. There’s another post on what helps you learn.

These are the guides I still think of rather than forgetting after a first look. (Or being disconcerted by/ rageous about all the errors !) I prefer lots of pictures, detailed instructions, videos, and gentle guidance through a set sequence of learning projects, so my choices won’t suit everyone.

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Go your own way with the help of a reference book

If you want to follow your own choice of projects – add to your skills by using easy patterns with clear instructions.

There are several groups of patterns specifically for beginners. Easiest :
Kwik Sew Kwik Start.
Simplicity ‘Learn to Sew‘ patterns.
(P.S. In my opinion and from what I”ve seen of them, Simplicity ‘Learn to Sew’ patterns are better than McCall’ ones. Simplicity and Kwik Start patterns have special instructions with extra help for beginners.)

A little more skilled :
Simplicity ‘It’s So Easy‘ patterns are more trendy casuals.
Beginners’ patterns from styleARC for modern classics.
Shapes patterns, more ‘arty’ styles from Sewing Workshop/ Cutting Line.

Several pattern companies rate their patterns for level of difficulty. And have detailed on-line sewalongs with photos in their blogs for extra support.
Sewaholic patterns are very popular.
(Beware patterns labelled Very Easy by Vogue, and Easy by McCall’s. They’re just ‘easier’ !)

There are also many easy patterns which don’t have special help with instructions, such as ‘one dot’ patterns from European companies like Burda Style (more trendy) or Ottobre (soft casuals).

Or free download patterns from Hot Patterns for softer styles.

Also most patterns that can be sewn quickly, see my posts on patterns that can be sewn in less than 2 hours, Index page 8.

Search for free download sewing patterns and find multiple possibilities. Many of them are very simple, but with varying quality of instructions.

If you’re happy in casual unfitted styles, you can dress well at this level of sewing skill.

If you go your own way, you’ll probably want a general reference book for support when instructions assume you already know how to do what’s needed.

Many people recommend the Readers Digest Complete Guide. Probably not for compete beginners. Full of drawings.

Some beginners find the big ‘bibles’ overwhelming. Me and My Sewing Machine is a good reference book for basic processes.

The late Shannon Gifford’s beginner classes cover basic techniques by making samples. Available as e-books from Pattern Review.

Here are some specific sources for learning more sewing skills.

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Kwik Sew

Kwik Sew have a series of books which include patterns, one of them about learning to sew.

Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew way by Kerstin Martensson includes patterns very like Kwik Sew Kwik Start ones. The basic patterns, and pattern altering and sewing techniques are much easier than the ‘Dressmaking’ book. Limited but effective skills. Simple sleeves, collars, facings, casings. No darts, zips, waistbands in the Kwik Sew book, while they’re all in the first project in ‘Dressmaking’. These Kwik Sew patterns are based on the casual dartless block for tops, with elastic waists for skirts and pants, so they don’t need much fitting work. The technique illustrations are diagrams. Includes simple knits and a multitude of pattern changes for different styles.

These ‘Kwik Sew’ patterns are ultra classic, not at all trendy.
The equivalent Kwik Sew Kwik Start patterns have somewhat more current proportions, but you don’t get all the guides for making other versions that you get in the book.
tee Kwik Sew 3766
blouse Kwik Sew 3475
pants Kwik Sew 3314
straight skirt Kwik Sew 3765

The book and patterns do assume you already know how to use a sewing machine, the basics of fabrics types, pattern layout and cutting, etc.

The only DIY pattern alterations in this book are making different lengths and adding some facings. There are different necklines marked on the patterns. But the book does show that you can make a large range of styles using just these simple pattern changing skills.

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More videos

There are free classes at Craftsy on making simple bags.
Start with a drawstring bag and bucket bag, then make a reversible tote and zipper pouch.

HipLine Media have DVDs on making simple bags and quilt. Their DVD on learning to sew has a good sew along on making pyjamas, but the introductory material on basics is poor, just talking heads.

If you’re looking for help with a specific process, there are detailed YouTube tutorials from FashionSewingBlogTV. Pity there isn’t an index ! Easiest to access them through her many sewalongs.

I have seen some other DVDs and didn’t think they were good enough to justify the effort of finding what you want when there’s only a minimal menu.

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Serger/ overlocker

I haven’t got a serger so can’t say much. But when I was looking for information about them, I did like the Palmer-Pletsch Serger Basics DVD. The exercises look good for understanding what’s going on. (I couldn’t make head-nor-tail of the associated book.)

There are video classes at Craftsy on Beginner Serging and Creative Serging.

Of the books I’ve seen, Simplicity ‘Simply the best‘ has the most specific guidance on using a serger for all the processes in making clothes.

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Less easy

There’s no clear dividing line between Beginner and Intermediate.
I put most garments that need zips and fitted sleeves at a higher level of skill.

The first Threads magazine Teach yourself to sew DVD is more advanced than the Kwik Sew book. Make a skirt and jacket using darts, gathers, zips, waistband, skirt lining (Simplicity 2424 jacket, Vogue 8464 skirt). Nothing on pattern making.

In my opinion, many patterns labelled ‘Easy’ are at the top of this level or above. And most Very Easy Vogue patterns are actually Intermediate 😀

Each item you make that’s a little different, you add to your skill. At Intermediate level you can deal with anything that isn’t too structured or fancy. A variety of fabrics, sleeves, waistbands, collars, zips, pockets, plackets, yokes and pleats, plus easy dress and jacket linings.
Next post in this group has some comments on learning these intermediate sewing skills and above.

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There’s no way any one person could know about all the possible sources on learning to sew – a bit like independent pattern companies, they’re spreading wildly!
And different types of learners prefer different types of support.
These are just the ones I’ve seen and kept.

Hope you find what you enjoy learning from, and which gives you ‘I can do this’ confidence 😀

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Links available February 2013

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I seem to collect wardrobe pattern books and review them. I started reviewing ‘Dressmaking’ by Alison Smith. That started off so many thoughts on learning, my comments expanded into 5 posts. Perhaps that is a bit much !

The ‘Dressmaking’ book is supposed to be a ‘complete step-by-step’ guide to sewing. I don’t think it would be good for beginners. And it’s not for advanced skills. I do think it’s very good for intermediate learning, though it doesn’t cover anywhere near everything ! More on that later – first a couple of posts on help for beginners.

These are my own levels of sewing difficulty. I don’t know any generally accepted list of skills !

(P.S. Many books for beginners, with patterns included, have been published since this post was written. Sorry, but I haven’t been able to keep up with them all, so can’t comment on quality.)

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Allow for what you’re nervous about

It takes time to build confidence in all the skills needed to make garments. Fabric knowledge, pattern symbols, layout, cutting, marking, pressing, fitting, pattern altering, as well as sewing. It’s a wonder we ever learn it all.

These are guides I get on with. As we all learn best in different ways (see my post on what helps you learn) they may not be to everyone’s taste. I like many pictures, much detail, easy beginnings and gentle progress. And videos.

Some people are intimidated both by using a sewing machine and by commercial patterns. I’ve called them ‘timid’ complete beginners.

And some people are happy to try anything with good instructions. Most books on learning are aimed at them.

Some people are happy to use a machine, but daunted by commercial patterns. Suggestions for them at the end.

Some people like to start with a challenge – you don’t need my advice ! Just enjoy the process and laugh about what you make 😀

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‘Drape’ without a pattern

Some people like to work direct with fabric. Including refashion charity shop finds. Currently popular but not my style.

A lot of designers work in this way, by ‘draping’ on a dress form or person (see my post). Flat pattern making is actually quite a recent development. Different people prefer the different approaches.

There are books, sites and blogs on this but I don’t know them. Nearly all the sources I mention involve a paper pattern – though some of them are very easy patterns that you make yourself.

If you want to devise your own projects but need a beginners general reference book on sewing, there’s Me and my sewing machine by Kate Haxell – good and clear on basic sewing machine skills.

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Timid complete beginners

These are some places to start if you’re intimidated by the thought of using a sewing machine or a commercial pattern.

There are many on-line sewing tips and ultra simple beginner projects at Debbie Colgrove’s site. Move on to her detailed Sewing 101 course – make pillow covers and a robe (dressing gown).

Here’s another simple on-line guide by Tilly and the buttons.

eSewingWorkshop.com has a free course of on-line videos on the basics of using a sewing machine.

Prefer a physical book ? Perhaps take A little course in sewing with a guided sequence of hand and machine sewing projects. Though there are pages of needed equipment. It would be less daunting if they mentioned that the tools actually needed (very few) are listed with each project.

Or try Sew Over It by Lisa Comfort. Altering and embellishing clothes for beginners. The only complaints at Amazon are that it’s too easy !

The Mary Frances Sewing Book is fun if you’d be happy to learn by hand sewing dolls’ clothes. Shorten the garments to thigh length (about 7 in./ 18 cm shoulder to hem) if you prefer current styles. Adults are allowed to use a sewing machine, so machine sew them if you prefer 😀

I’m a timid learner myself. (The first issue of ‘Sew Stylish’ magazine had 12 sewing personalities. I recognised myself in “when will you have made enough place mats and be ready to move on ?” 😀 It’s drawstring bags I’ve got a house full of.) I know what’s it’s like to be knocked sideways by incomprehensible, incomplete or wrong instructions. I don’t know if there are any sources with no errors at all, but hopefully the ones I mention have very few.

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Confident complete beginners

For beginners who don’t need to start quite so slowly.
Most of these guides assume you’re happy to use a sewing machine.

Diana Rupp is clear and helpful in her beginners’ video class at Craftsy. Make a pillow and simple skirt with zip. Linked to her book Sew Everything Workshop.

Connie Crawford’s Studio Sewing Skills DVD leads you through practice samples (there’s even a kit of materials), then making a blouse.

Make modern doll’s clothes ? – detailed videos at Rosie’s doll clothes.

A couple of video series go from beginner to expert.

You Can Make It DVDs are detailed sew-alongs with 7 levels : elastic waist skirt, skirt with zip and waistband, simple blouse with collar and sleeves, sleeveless dress with waist seam cut from plaid, pants with fly zip, shirt, notched collar jacket. Cumulative, later DVDs assume you have worked through earlier ones. Video clips here.

The Sewing Guru has introductory videos on the sewing machine, and a beginners class on making a pillow (cushion cover) and apron.
Then sew-along videos from easier skirt, pyjamas, dress, to more difficult men’s pants, shirt and tailored jackets. Join free for a couple of days and look around the site.

Ah, those are all videos. I do like the clothes styles that the book Sewing Machine Basics by Jane Bolsover leads up to (pants, skirt, top patterns). Before that there are good sections on basic skills, then a related project. I need to be more imaginative about these projects – change the colours, and use fleece instead of felt !

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Make your own patterns

Personally I find it more alarming to be expected to make my own patterns than to use a commercial pattern. But some people are the other way round.

Some people find commercial patterns daunting and confusing.
Some people find making their own patterns is more freely creative, and they feel more ownership of the result.

These are some places to start if you don’t want to use a conventional pattern. They do assume you don’t need help with using a sewing machine, or you’re happy to hand sew your garments.

I enjoy DIY Couture. Instructions for drawing garment shapes directly onto the fabric. (The ‘How to use the instructions’ section has comments on which styles are easy, which more difficult.) There’s a long review with sample pages by nouvellegamine.

These other books include making your own paper patterns by simple methods.

The hippie style Hassle-free make your own clothes book is simple and fun. A bit like DIY Couture, but you draw the shapes onto paper rather than direct onto fabric.

Sew What Bags is simple : cut fabric to measurements, or make a square/ rectangle pattern the shape and size you want your bag.

Sew What Skirts and Sew What Fleece are fun guides to simple ‘proper’ pattern making. Draw out the simplest possible patterns for skirts and other garments, based on a small number of personal measurements,

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Learning to sew is a topic a bit like fit – I’ve done a lot of exploring of what’s available !
Posts to come on sources I like at advanced beginner level, and for learning intermediate skills.

There are hundreds of books on learning to sew. Some have a few minor mistakes, some are truly terrible. I’ve only seen a small sample. And it’s impossible for one book/ video to be in the best instruction style for everyone, or contain projects loved by all tastes – so you may not like my suggestions !

Good Luck for avoiding confusing books. Worth taking the time to read low star reviews at Amazon. And only believe 5 star reviews from beginners who’ve actually followed the instructions. Many glowing reviews are from people who just think the book looks pretty – much easier than writing good instructions.

In the right hand menu of my blog there are links to on-line sources of sewing demos, DVDs, and tutorials.

Getting to the level of being able to sew garments is a major achievement.
Best Wishes for finding easy projects that you want to make, and enjoy your learning 😀

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Links available February 2013

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