Sewingplums

I remember writing a note about a capsule Louise Cutting suggested. The note got lost with the demise of Stitcher’s Guild. I think it is worth re-discovering.
This re-edited version includes some quotes from Louise [sections in ” “] for which the sources are no longer available, so I hope she won’t mind.

This shows how easy it is to build a rich group of co-ordinates from a small number of patterns.

Louise based her capsule around her Cutting Line Anything But Ordinary (ABO) pattern.
The sewing processes used are at advanced beginner to low intermediate level, and well explained in Louise’s instructions.

As described below, she made a jacket, vest, and blouse from the jacket pattern, and the original plus another top with adjusted proportions from the top pattern.
Most of the pattern changes suggested are very easy, and made during cutting out or during sewing.

Sadly some of us would have to pay more for shipping paper patterns from the US than Louise charges for a pattern, so I have suggested some .pdf alternatives.

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Make the ABO jacket as a blouse and a vest

The basic jacket is like this :

“I’ve made several ABO in both blouse and jacket weight fabric in the same size. I’ve also . . . by drafting armhole facings made a companion vest, again in the same size.”
(See this post for many links to guidance on drafting facings.)

Change of proportions :
“The blouse can be about 2″ longer than the jacket, and the top edge of the collar seam can be sewn at 1″ [seam allowance] instead of 5/8”. Easiest way to shorten the collar. This way it gives a “stacked” look. And no, the collar doesn’t need to be buttoned at the neck.”

If you have trouble with attaching the collar, see this post with suggestions for easy methods. You could also make the jacket, vest or blouse without the collar, see one of the comments below. An easy way of adding some more looks. Add a collarless short sleeved jacket to your group and greatly increase the number of different outfits you can style.

For myself I would lengthen the jacket. As the pattern sides are straight that is easy to do.

The following patterns from The Sewing Workshop are somewhat similar. They could be made in both blouse and jacket fabrics, and played with in the same way.
Crossroads shirt.
Now shirt.
Quincy top.

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Change the proportions of the ABO top

The basic top is like this :

To add to the delights of the ABO pattern, Louise devised a simpler version of the shell, which she called a ‘Go To’ top.
These instructions about changing proportions could be used to change pretty well any basic shell pattern that you have. Note the pattern is not a knit tee, it is for woven fabric.
McCall’s 7322 andMcCall’s 8160 are similar top patterns with faced necklines.

Width :
“It’s about 3″ wider than the size you normally cut in ABO through the body, so the air flows…add a vertical 3/4″ of tissue along the shoulder between the neck edge and armscye to both front and back.”

not the ABO top but shows the position of the vertical pattern slash lines

Length :
“The length of the ‘go to’ finished top is actually the length of the unfinished top in ABO…so add another 2″ for a hem, then, once it’s turned up at the 2″ hem mark and stitched it will give weight at the hem for the top. 
Dip the hem 1/2″ at centre back and true it back to the side seams.
I put hem vents at the sides of the hem. They are 1″ at side seams.”

Lowering the neckline :
“Instead of a 5/8″ seam, sew [the neckline seam allowance] at 3/4″ or 7/8″ and don’t bother putting the tab at the shoulder.”

Sleeve length and taper :
“I lengthen mine to 3/4, but that is personal preference.”
Extend the sides of the pattern piece.

“Taper them so they are about 10-12″ at the hem. You will have to taper the sleeve sides from about 1″ below the top at front and back so you get the 10″-12″ at the hem. Don’t forget the ‘turn of the cloth’ so the 1″ hem (you will need to add that amount) can turn back inside the sleeve.”
(See the last section of this post on hems for guidance about what to do at the hem end of a tapered seam.)

If you like a full length sleeve, the width of the sleeve at the hem could be narrower – what is your preference?

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Adding more items

If you followed all Louise’s advice on adapting Anything But Ordinary you would make 5 items :
jacket, vest, and blouse from the jacket pattern,
top, and another top with different proportions.

For a complete outfit or capsule, add some pants.
Louise always advocates her One-Seam pants (left below),
but I prefer a side seam pant with tapered leg, as in her My Swing Set pants (right).

Both are elastic waist, and basically for variety in a capsule you need pants in 2 styles : a straight leg pant and a tapered leg pant.

For hot weather you could shorten either to shorts or capris. You can fold up the pattern pieces to shorten pattern pieces with straight sides. Sadly you can’t just fold up tapered leg pattern pieces to shorten the length, as there can be problems with a hem at the end of a tapered seam. For advice see the tapered seams section of this hems post.

There are many patterns which include both straight and tapered pants, though most of them have zipper flys. There are a few double patterns with elastic waists, but for some reason all the ones that are easy to find are paper-only patterns : New Look 6691, Simplicity 8389, Simplicity 8841, Very Easy Vogue 9258.

Adding 2 pairs of pants to the items made from ABO would give 7 garments.
3 tops, 2 bottoms, 2 layers, from which you can make :
3 tops x 2 bottoms = 6 basic outfits.
Each top-bottom pair can be worn with 3 layer options (none, vest, jacket) = 18 different outfits.

Louise added the top and elastic-waist skirts from her Putting It Together pattern, which includes a sleeveless top, an above knee straight skirt, and a below knee flared skirt.



For some alternate pattern options see the first post on Eileen Fisher’s 12 shapes.

Adding the 3 items from Putting It Together to the previous 7 items would give 10 garments.
4 tops, 2 skirts, 2 pants, 2 layers, which make in all :
4 tops x 4 bottoms = 16 basic outfits x 3 layer options = 48 different outfits.

You can of course add more of any of the items in different fabrics. Classic 12-item capsules can include a top and skirt in the same print to make a 2-piece dress.

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Making a capsule wardrobe

With accessories (bags, shoes, scarves, jewellery) for both casual and evening wear, this group could make a complete holiday capsule.
(If things unexpectedly got really cold, you could actually wear most of the tops and layers together.)

To achieve the maximum number of outfits suggested above, all the garments need to look good together : all tops with all bottoms, all layers with all tops and bottoms. Louise chose from her patterns so they co-ordinate : silhouettes, proportions, necklines and armholes are wearable together. To improve co-ordination, use only three of your best colours : two of your best medium or dark neutrals plus your best light (including having those in prints). If that thought depresses you, add some more tops in bright colours and strongly patterned prints 😀

To dress in ’boutique casual’ style, you would need to make these garments in quality fabrics using quality methods.
Louise’s Cutting Line patterns are noted for good instructions.

These fabrics are listed on the patterns :
Layers and bottoms :
linen, linen/cotton, medium weight cotton, piqué, chambray, light denim,
linen rayon, medium weight rayon, Tencel, micro fibre,
silk crepe de chine, silk dupioni, silk matka, silk shantung, silk tussah, 3-ply-silk,
light weight wool, tropical weight wool, wool crepe.
Jackets only : home dec fabrics.
Tops : handkerchief linen, rayon, blouse weight cotton, cotton shirting.

Louise used to sell particularly interesting fabrics herself.
Atelier Brunette or Nani Iro might make good substitutes. Or Nerida Hansen’s prints. If you prefer quieter, look at Merchant & Mills linens, with their light fabrics for shirts/ blouses.

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More alternatives

The capsule above is based on making adaptations to a basic 3-pattern group for layers and tops, pants, and skirts. The styles suggested in this Eileen Fisher post about a capsule of 12 items are also boutique-casuals.
The second post of the EF group includes some simple longer ‘kimono’ jacket styles (that link is to some patterns). Adding one of those to your ABO capsule could make a big change in the effect of your outfits. Make one for warmer one for cooler weather, or one casual one more dressy. And ‘kimonos’ fold up easily for packing.

This link leads to some other 3-pattern groups (layer, top, pants) from many indie pattern designers. These are somewhat easier to make than above as they include ‘robe’ jackets rather than funnel collar styles, but also could be more difficult as many of the tops have necklines finished with bias-strip-facing (instead use bias binding or a true facing).

A source of marvellous ’boutique casual’ wardrobe patterns is nearly anything by Adri. All long out of print so need some searching, or use for inspiration. Here’s a pinterest board showing the possibilities. It must be said that few are easy, many are made from a single layer of fabric so need enclosed seams and carefully narrow hemmed edges. Some of them now have mighty odd proportions to our eyes, but many are still usable. Here is a post by someone who used one of these patterns to sew a whole capsule in a weekend. This shows they do not need any unavoidably slow techniques, though she must be a very expert sewist 😀

Also there are many ‘wardrobe’ patterns from the Big4, some are more ‘normcore’, surprisingly many are ’boutique casual’. See this post. Most can be made in different lengths, with or without collars and sleeves. . .

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Enjoy both the making and the wearing.
♥️ 👍 ♥️

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