Sewingplums

This is the second part of a commentary on Eileen Fisher’s 12 Shapes, this part covering :
– patterns which could copy Eileen Fisher’s summer layers and outerwear,
– some outfit patterns in a similar style.

For people in hot climates, layering garments may be of less interest than the tops and bottoms in the first post. Though a couple of the layers below are light in weight, perhaps for a cool evening.

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Layers

As usual, you can choose to vary the length of any layers – cropped above waist, cropped to high hip, crotch length, thigh length, knee length, calf length/ midi, ankle length/ duster.
See the photos for the lengths Eileen Fisher typically uses – different for each shape !
And make sleeveless or with short/ elbow/ wrist length sleeves.

If you want to layer over other garments, make sure your layer pattern allows for this. Every time you add another layer, most people want at least another 2″/5cm of ease for wearing comfort. For example, if your top has 2″/5cm of ease, a layer to wear over it needs at least 4″/10cm of ease.

And if you are layering over a top with sleeves, check the armhole. Many ‘jacket’ patterns are designed to be worn alone, or with just a cami/tank under, so they can be uncomfortably tight when worn over a top/ blouse/ shirt with sleeves.

Also necklines need to be compatible. Though that is not a problem with these Eileen Fisher styles. The only collars used in these 12 Shapes are a classic shirt collar worn under shawl or notched collar layers, which can classically be worn together without interfering with each other.

4 layer Shapes :

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Button front sleeveless Vest

In summer this may be worn as a top. When you make one to be worn alone, you may want to make a smaller armhole than you use in a vest which will be layered over a top/ shirt.

Some of the suggested patterns for boxy tops and shirts in the first post have low armholes. Scoop out the vest armhole until it is deeper than the top armhole, and make the armhole facing to match.



Many vest style options, which is your favourite ?
V neck, or a jewel neck which may have 2-piece collar or band alone.
Boxy shape or with fitting darts. If you have a fitted pattern but want a boxy shape, just don’t sew the vertical darts. Most of the patterns below don’t include fitting darts.
Choice of hemline shape – pointed, curved, straight.

McCall’s 8442 has several classic front opening, hem shape, and trim options, free video.

Butterick 6745 adds several more style options, one is for winter.

Butterick 6901 by Lisette is a classic fitted vest.

A vest with a 2-piece collar or a simple band collar could be adapted from a shirt pattern (see first post).

Vogue 1970 by Marcy Tilton has a flared shape and 2 types of band collar, plus a sleeve option.

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Light loose summer layers

The two light layers from Eileen Fisher are said to be inspired by ‘kimono’ style, but they’re without a neckline band. They are made from one layer of fabric, and very unstructured.

This is a general post about ‘kimono’ style patterns, but they all have bands.

The two Eileen Fisher styles are a ‘cardigan’ style, and a ‘high collar’ version with a collar round the back of the neck.
Both best made from fabric with two ‘good’ sides.

Cardigan


You might copy this ‘cardigan’ using a pattern in the above ‘kimonos’ post, simply by replacing the neckline band with a narrow hem or bias binding finish.

New Look 6770 has the neckline edge finished with a narrow facing, which could be replaced with bias binding or bias facing.

Burda 5883 has 2 lengths and is rated ‘very easy’, not obvious how the neckline is finished.

McCall’s 7331 is a knit wardrobe pattern from Nancy Zieman – lengthen this cardigan design, again not obvious how the neck edge is finished.

This Tropical Research coat pattern is the right shape, and could be made unlined to be like the Eileen Fisher version, i.e. make a single layer, possibly with french seams, and bind the neckline edges.
This pattern has many other options.

High collar at back neck

This light layer appears to be made using shawl collar technique, which is not for early beginners. It looks as if it does have a narrow facing finishing the neckline edge.



McCall’s 6996 is a single layer jacket in knit fabric. Make longer.
Can be made either with neckline band (easier), or with shawl collar as in the Eileen Fisher version.

For a light shawl collar, just make the front facing at collar width throughout its length. Cut off the extended part of the facing pattern which lies under the front (left image). This means the ‘wrong side’ of the front fabric will often be seen.
cut along red line

The next 2 patterns are designed for heavier items. So for summer – make the neckline with narrower facings, or as a single layer with no facing and instead a narrow hem or binding finish along the neckline edge. If making a single layer, sew the centre back neck seam (green line on right image) as a flat-felled seam, so there are no free seam allowances.

Vogue 9338 has a shawl collar, 3 sleeves and 2 length options, make longer.

Vogue 9334 is another interesting option, includes slim pants. That dart at the side of the neck should make it easier to sew a ’shawl collar’.

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Notched collar blazer

Most of the Eileen Fisher blazers for summer are unlined, loose and unstructured, patch pockets, 2-piece sleeves.

Different blazer designs have different levels of collar notch, and height of the highest closure/ top button/ bottom of neckline opening.
The Triumph of Individual Style is a beautiful book, with many ideas about clothing proportions. It suggests 2 ideal ‘balance points’ for neckline depth, which are related to your facial measurements – see about half way through this post.
It is possible that on a blazer your ideal collar notch height should come at your high balance point, and the top closure/ bottom of neckline opening should come at your low balance point, for the best relation to your personal proportions. Try it (place some kitchen towel cut-outs on your front) and see if this idea works for you 😀
While having the notch down at bust level will draw attention your bust. . .

There’s a list of the top 14 blazer patterns at Pattern Review.

More blazer pattern options, and links to support videos, in this post.

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Summer Outerwear

Eileen Fisher has a light outerwear jacket with zipper+popper front opening, big pockets, back box pleat, funnel collar containing hood.

There are more detailed style elements in one garment here than in most of the other Eileen Fisher pieces.

I have yet to find a pattern for that hood zipped into the collar, but these patterns make something similar.
Omit the waist casing to make them more like the Eileen Fisher version.
Could be made longer for more protection.

Simplicity 9052 by Mimi G – zipper and separate hood.

Simplicity 8843 – choice of front openings and sleeves, collar or hood.

Tropical Research parka – collar or hood, optional lining, free video.

Do you use a brolly when it rains and want coverage of your legs ? A trench coat is not included in Eileen Fisher’s current outerwear, but this pattern has most classic trench style elements and I think it would work with her style.
Know Me pattern ME2070 by Beauté J’Adore, with free video sew-along.

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Capsule and outfit patterns

Having more than one garment in a pattern makes your co-ordination choices easier.
I think these combination patterns are similar to Eileen Fisher’s style.
Most of the layers look as if they have generous armholes.
Some of these patterns include individual items which are referred to above or in the first post.

This post has some more wardrobe pattern suggestions, not all trying to mimic Eileen Fisher style.

Core 4 – top, skirt, pants, layer

New Look 6217 – cut-on sleeve top, skirt, pants, ‘kimono’ style jacket.

Vogue 9286 – 5 Easy Pieces – tank top, tunic, skirt, slim pants, jacket.
Note the jacket and tunic use many of the same pattern pieces, so one can’t be worn over the other. But they have very generous ease, so you might make the tunic a size smaller – and perhaps without box pleat or sleeve cuffs (taper sleeves).
(Vogue ‘Very Easy’ and ‘Easy’ patterns are definitely not for early beginners, they’re often lower intermediate in difficulty.)

3-item outfit : top, pants, and layer

Simplicity 8924 – two layering tops, slim pants, ‘kimono’ jacket.

Simplicity 9114 by Mimi G – camisole, pants, duster – leave off the lower flounce for a thigh length layer.

Simplicity 9271 – tank top, wide leg pants, ‘kimono’ jacket.

Vogue 9191 – 5 Easy Pieces – tank top, shorts, wide leg pants, 2 styles of poncho layer.

2-item outfit : top or layer, plus pants

Butterick 6901 by Lisette – classic vest, classic pants with slant pockets and side zipper.

Know Me pattern ME2052 by Beauté J’Adore – shirt and pants, free sew-along video.

New Look 6461 – 3 tops, wide leg pants.

Simplicity 9149 – box top with choice of hem shapes, wide leg pants.

Simplicity 9926 – cape-like top with 2 front lengths, fly front pants.

Vogue 1642 – funnel neck raglan sleeve top in 2 lengths, wide leg pants.

Vogue 9011 – Very Easy Vogue – open front jacket, pants.

Vogue 9258 – Very Easy Vogue – two sleeveless tops, with slimmer and wider pants.

Vogue 9334 – Very Easy Vogue – ‘robe’ jacket, slim pants.

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Pick the patterns at your level of confidence.
Here’s the link to the first post on tops, pants and skirts.
Even if you haven’t got much experience with sewing clothes, you may be able to make a basic outfit in this casual chic style without much difficulty, perhaps a whole capsule 😀 👍

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Explore posts in the same categories: co-ordinates, Eileen Fisher, specific capsules

This entry was posted on June 23, 2024 at 11:16 pm and is filed under co-ordinates, Eileen Fisher, specific capsules. You can subscribe via RSS 2.0 feed to this post's comments. You can comment below, or link to this permanent URL from your own site.