Sewingplums

What if the classics don’t nurture your soul ? The September 2010 issue of Vogue patterns shows there’s a lot more going on in fashion. Some of these are patterns to set my heart racing with my love of interesting cuts.

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Skirt

A classic with added seam interest and many places for adjusting the fit. A pattern for lovers of the pencil shape, Vogue 8697.

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No need to wear an LBD

Several simple sheath dresses in this pattern group, but my attention is grabbed by a lovely collection of designer cocktail dresses, all the way from the beautiful minimalist bias cut of Tom and Linda Platt Vogue 1208

to pretty gathers and flounces from Rachel Comey Vogue 1209.

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Blouse/ shirt

Another classic pattern with many places to adjust fit. It fills a gap in the Vogue basics, a yoked style with princess seam shaping, multi-cup sizes, 2 collars and 3 sleeves, Vogue 8689.

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Tunics, big shirts and knit tops

These didn’t appear in a classic work wardrobe, but happily there are some here, as many of us wear them.

A magnificent subtly sculptural big shirt from Chado Ralph Rucci. (with pants) Vogue 1215.

A couple of interesting ’boutique’ styles from Katherine Tilton, a loose tunic, Vogue 8690

and a waist fitting style, Vogue 8691.

Vogue say this will work for a triangle shape, but I think it’s definitely one for the slim of hip !

While for a Very Easy sloppy tunic there’s Vogue 8698,

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Vests

Yes there is a vest, paired with leggings, by Alice + Olivia, Vogue 1214.

Again, I think this would enhance a small butt better than it would conceal a large one. . .

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Jackets

Well, if ‘boyfriend’ jackets don’t go far enough for you in the direction of drama, how about this stunning one from Laroche, which might possibly be described as a blazer ! Vogue 1211

There’s also a boxy shape blazer as part of Claire Shaeffer’s Couture series, Vogue 8692, an unusual shape for her.

As I’m not a blazer person, I’m more interested in the non-classic styles.

There’s a shawl collar flared shape with an interesting cut from Marcy Tilton, Vogue 8693.

I’m not at all sure how this would work for the pear shaped. I think for myself I would level the hem. I don’t need fabric arrows pointing to my thighs. . .

And a Very Easy generous cascade collar jacket for knits, Vogue 8696.

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Coats

If the thought of a camel hair classic coat makes you shudder, have a look at these possibilities.

A complex cut for a flared shape from one of my favourite designers, Lynn Mizono, Vogue 1216 .

(She also has a pattern for boxy shape hats ! Vogue 8704.)

A flare shape with funnel collar and interesting princess bodice seaming from Sandra Betzina, Vogue 1212.

But do level the hem so it doesn’t look droopy. . .

And one from the designer with a gift for unusual coats, an embellished multi-fabric coat with scalloped detail from Koos, Vogue 1213.

This makes me think of both inner cities and frivolous fun in the snow.
Vogue seem to be saying all these patterns are right for all body shapes. I’m not convinced this coat would be flattering on very unbalanced triangle or inverted triangle.

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Oddments

Some evening wraps from Elizabeth Gillett NYC which, as usual for her, look more interesting than most, Vogue 8694.

Plus a pattern for scarves and a frilly version of this season’s ubiquitous neck ring, also wearable as a bolero, Vogue 8702.

Easy to copy ? Make you own fancy neck ring. The measurements given are 15” x 29”. 29” must be the flat measure, not around the ring, so you need at least 58” length of fabric. The fabric quantity given is 3/4 yd (27 in.)/ 0.70 m, so presumably it’s cut across 60 in./ 150 cm fabric, and not double thickness. Do some experimenting.

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Tempting though it would have been, I’ve nowhere near mentioned all the patterns in this issue.

And for wardrobe patterns, there’s the famous Miyake pattern Vogue 1476, which has been available for nearly 20 years, with its interesting rectangle pattern piece coat, excellent big shirt, and peg top pants (omit the huge pockets!). It’s at last going out of print. So grab it while you can.

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What about a wardrobe from these patterns ? There’s not a full wardrobe that would work for my casual life or my pear shape, but I can see a small but effective grouping for someone more elegant than me :

For Dress to Impress, there’s the Platt dress, Laroche jacket (worn with a camisole), pencil skirt, Alice + Olivia vest, Chado Ralph Rucci shirt and pants.

I think the Koos coat could make a good addition to this group 😀

For a more casual and layerable look, how about the knit jacket, one of the classic blouses, a Katherine Tilton tunic and some Lynn Mizono pants. (I could wear these.)

That would make :
1 dress
2 jackets, 1 vest/ top
3 tops
1 skirt, 2 pants

Definitely only a dream plan !

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Patterns and links available October 2010

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