Sewingplums

It’s nearly 15 years since I first wrote about copying Eileen Fisher’s casual chic style.
In this length of time many patterns go out of print, so it’s time for another try.

This time I’m basing my suggestions on Eileen Fisher’s ’12 Shapes’.
This grouping is for light summer clothes.

These basic silhouettes can be made with various relative proportions of widths and lengths.
If your prefer to wear over-sized styles, it’s best to use patterns deliberately designed to be oversized, rather than making a larger size of an average fit pattern, as the shoulder and armscye are more likely to be correct.
Or, if you like closely fitted styles : different skin-tight patterns are designed for fabric with different amounts of stretch, and should tell you how much stretch you need to use.

While if you prefer a different length to the one the pattern is made for, that is a change it is often easy to make yourself, see this tutorial from Tilly and the Buttons.

Basically Eileen Fisher suggests :
4 tops : tank, tee, box top, shirt (she also has a cami).
4 pants : slim pants, wide leg pants, lantern pants, fly zip trousers.
4 layers : vest, cardigan, high collar cardigan, blazer.
You could choose to make one of each for a basic 12 item capsule 😀
Or, if some of these styles are wrong for you, just make the items that you do like. For example, I never wear wide leg pants (make me look like a heffalump) or a notch collar blazer (too angular near my face).

Skirts are not among Eileen Fisher’s basic 12 Shapes, but she does also offer 4 main skirt silhouettes : pencil, a-line, lantern skirt, culottes.
Plus, for summer, a parka-style bad-weather jacket.

This post got longer and longer, so I have divided it in two :
– this first part covers tops and bottoms,
– the second part suggests ways to copy the layer styles. After that, there are links to some wardrobe and outfit patterns which I think are in a similar chic relaxed casual style. Though, unlike the Eileen Fisher items, these are not all interchangeable!

If you are concerned about choosing different styles which work well together, the co-ordination of shapes is done here for you. Most of the tops will go with most of the bottoms. All the layers could be made in a way which will go over all of the tops and bottoms, see the second post for some notes.

When you’re making a group for yourself that will mix-and-match, it is best to minimise and co-ordinate your colour choices. Perhaps choose two from your best colours plus one light (unless you best not wear lights).

Eileen Fisher also adds variety by making the same shape in different fabric textures.

To copy the impact of Eileen Fisher’s clothes, you really do need to make them from quality fabrics using quality techniques ! These days Eileen Fisher uses only natural fibres and has environmental concerns.

Accessories
Nearly all Eileen Fisher’s summer shoes are wide-strap sandals. Mostly slides, as can be seen from the photos below. Personally I don’t wear slides, I find them insecure when using stairs.
Her bags are very easy to copy, and make from scraps. Perhaps I need to look out some patterns but I find these totes and rectangular bags obvious.
Add a straw hat.

–

The 12 Shapes

Most of the Eileen Fisher Shapes are stylish versions of casual classics, so there are many patterns for them. You may well have your own favourites.

I have just picked a few typical patterns.
I haven’t tried many of these patterns myself, so give no guarantee the instructions are good, though they are from reputable companies.

The garment images are all from the Eileen Fisher website.

– – –

Tops

No dresses in the 12 Shapes group, but all tops can be made dress length.

All the tops can also be sleeveless or with various sleeve lengths.
Also various body lengths :
top at high hip, crotch length,
mini dress/ tunic at thigh length,
dress at knee length, midi/ calf length, ankle length, floor length.

4 basic Shapes, and I have added a cami.

–

Tank

Choose your preferred width, length, neckline shape, strap width.

I don’t wear tanks myself – I don’t find the climate I live in warm enough, but there are plenty of patterns.
Here are a few.

McCall’s 7386 – ‘Learn to Sew’ pattern, includes dresses and skirts of several lengths.

The Grainline Studio Willow Tank is a basic classic.

These have a flared shape :
Vogue 9258 – two sleeveless tops, with slimmer and wider pants.

Tropical Research – pattern for tank dress, but tank top cutting length and sleeve options included.

–

Tee

Again not something I wear myself, but there are many patterns. If you wear tees, you probably have a favourite.

McCall’s 7322, ‘Learn to Sew’ pattern, neckline and sleeve variations, woven or knit fabric.

This one from LoveNotions is also aimed at beginners – for knits, and has 3 necklines, 4 sleeves.

Tropical Research minimalist tee, various body and sleeve length options.

–

Box top

These may have cut-on or separate sleeves.
Most of these patterns finish the neckline with a bias strip facing. If you can’t yet do that to your satisfaction, draft a pattern for a true facing instead, see this facings post.



Box top with cut on sleeves

These suggestions are all oriented to learning to sew :

All Well Workshop box top, instructions for adding sleeves and skirt.

Cal Patch at Creative Bug – video includes drafting your own pattern.

Sew DIY Lou box top, 2 necklines, 3 hems.

Tropical Research – tee shirt tunic, with free video.

Box top with separate sleeves

Add 4 sleeve styles to the Sew DIY Lou box top above.

Tropical Research – boxy top with separate sleeves of several lengths, also a skirt option – with free video.

Or take your box top up a notch with Vogue 1912 designed by Rachel Comey (lower the neckline for summer).

–

Classic band collar shirt

Eileen Fisher versions are mainly 2-piece collar shirts, or may be made only with collar band.


Of course there are many shirt patterns, see some in this post. Includes links to many videos.

Or try one of these :
Know Me pattern ME2052 by Beauté J’Adore – shirt with pants, free sew-along video.

Tropical Research – shirt with several collar, yoke and pocket options – free video.

–

Camisole

Not included in the 12 Shapes, but Eileen Fisher has a simple gathered cami.
Here’s the dress version :


Have not found a pattern exactly the same, but :
Wardrobe By Me Carma Camisole makes the neckline binding and straps in the same way. To copy the Eileen Fisher one, you need to add gathers across the front. Just cut the front with the pattern fold edge lying away from the fabric fold : 1″ gap will add 2″ to the fabric piece. Gather into the band.

Or this pattern has a gathered neckline, not similar to the Eileen Fisher one but very easy to make.
McCall’s 7405 is a ‘Learn to Sew’ pattern.

– – –

Pants

Nearly all the Eileen Fisher pants have an elastic waist or a waistband made from stretchy knit.
Here’s a general post on elastic waist pants.

All the pant shapes could be various lengths – micro shorts, bermuda shorts, capri, ankle length, floor length.
Eileen Fisher does have wide leg bermuda length shorts.
Her capris are low calf length.
Most Eileen Fisher pants are ankle length for summer.
Longest length to go with a given shoe heel height ? make the pant length so it just touches the front of your foot.

Pants may have in-seam, slant, or cargo pockets.

These are the 4 Eileen Fisher silhouettes.

–

Slim pant


Can be made from woven fabric or ponte knit.

These slim pant patterns are for woven fabric :
Sew Over It Carrie – pay extra for video.

Butterick 6028 by Katherine Tilton.

–

Wide leg pant


Not actually very wide by current standards, wider than the ‘slim leg’ pants. Many straight leg pant patterns will work here. (If you want some suggestions, see the wardrobe patterns in the second post.)

Here are some wider possibilities.

Simplicity 9149 includes an interesting box top.

Simplicity 9608, an ‘easy-to-sew’ pattern – make it even easier by replacing the button placket side panels with a simple side seam.

–

Lantern pant


Also called ‘barrel leg’ pants.
Loose over the hips, thighs and down the legs, tapering in at the ankle.

Here’s a pattern round-up for these, from Threads magazine.

If this shape works well for you, here is a pattern for a jeans version from Forest & Thread, video available.

–

Trouser pant

The above styles are all elastic-waist, but ‘trousers’ have the classic features : waistband, pleats, slant pockets, fly front zipper closure.


Another style for which there are many patterns.

Butterick 6973 is from Palmer-Pletsch, so has extra fitting and sewing guidance.

Sew Over It have a video masterclass which includes patterns for both slim and wider leg styles.

– – –

Skirts

Eileen Fisher doesn’t include a skirt in her 12 Shapes, but she does have them among her offerings.
Her skirts are nearly all midi length, with a few pencil minis. But of course you can make them any length : mini, mid knee or just below knee length, calf length/midi, ankle length, floor length.
From the photos, you can see Eileen Fisher has both high calf and low calf midi styles. I prefer the low calf length.
Which skirt length is most flattering on your legs ?

Again 4 basic silhouettes.

Pencil – i.e. slim straight


McCall’s 8068 is a ‘Learn to Sew’ pattern with back zipper (so perhaps not for early beginners), choice of silhouette and length.

There are easy elastic waist possibilities in this elastic-waist skirts post.

A-line skirt with side seam pockets, also in a wrap version.



Very like the Elizabeth Suzann Bel skirt pattern.

Lantern skirt



Tapered in at the hem.

Vogue 1731 by Marcy Tilton is more tapered than the Eileen Fisher one (pattern includes pants but they are not lantern silhouette).

The Sewing Workshop has some patterns with this shape (Edgewater, Metro, Tosca).

Wide leg culottes – Eileen Fisher calls them skirt pants, they used to be called divided skirts.



Simplicity 8134 View E is an ‘easy to sew’ pattern. Shorts and other pant styles included.

– – –

The second post on this topic covers :
– Eileen Fisher’s summer layers and outerwear.
– some possible outfit patterns in related style.

Enjoy !

= = = = =

Click on the red header to see the index at top right.

Explore posts in the same categories: co-ordinates, Eileen Fisher, specific capsules

This entry was posted on June 23, 2024 at 10:57 am and is filed under co-ordinates, Eileen Fisher, specific capsules. You can subscribe via RSS 2.0 feed to this post's comments. You can comment below, or link to this permanent URL from your own site.