This capsule immediately caught my eye because each item has interesting style elements, rather than being the simplest possible basic. Because of that, I don’t think these tops and jacket could be worn in all possible layering combinations. But they do give style effects from formal to casual to dressy.

How about patterns for these ?

As often happens, I’ve found I’ve got so much to say on this, I’ve divided it in sections :
- this on patterns for the original capsule.
- a second post on variations in style.

- – -

Drape front shell

Vivenne Westwood sleeveless top with ruched and pleated front, and side zip fastening.

Many patterns for a simpler version of this, with drape neckline but not so closely fitted it needs an opening. Here’s new Vogue 8816.

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Smock top

Paul & Joe Sister top with lace yoke, gathered lower section, three-quarter puff sleeves, buttoned opening down back.

Again I would be more likely to wear a looser pullover version of this. I need layers even in summer, and I wear loose smock tunics.

There used to be several top patterns with yoke at mid-armhole height, now they’re more difficult to find. Try Butterick 5217 – gather the lower section instead of pleating. Or keep the pleats if you prefer a flatter effect. And lengthen the sleeves.

- – -

Big shirt

Madewell shirt. With ‘boyfriend sizing’ it can be worn alone or as a shirt-jacket layer.
So why not use a man’s shirt pattern. To get the over-sized effect, don’t choose a style which tapers to the hips.

Here’s one of several men’s shirts from Kwik Sew : Kwik Sew 2000.

The drawing is tapered but the pattern isn’t.
Add large chest pockets if they look good on you.
I like rounded corners and some pretty trim. More difficult to sew, but a better look for me.

- – -

Pants

Alberta Ferretti cropped pants with side buttoned opening.
Personally I look short legged in a cropped style. But ankles are a focus this season.
And the last thing I need is a row of buttons drawing attention to my high hips.
So use your favourite basic pants.

- – -

Long swirly skirt

Target maxi knit.
I don’t wear knit skirts, they cling to every bump on my hips and thighs. And that waist swathe would be best avoided on my high hips. . . But I do love swirling around in a long skirt, even though it’s not practical for my everyday.

Look for something fitted over the hips then flaring out.
Many gored skirt patterns with this shape, but this is simpler. Simplicity 4881 for wovens – extend it to ankle or maxi length.

- – -

Safari jacket

G-Star lined safari style blazer with interesting pocket detail.

Basically a classic notched collar fitted lined blazer with added pockets.
So add bellows pockets and zips to your favourite blazer pattern.

Here are my blazer posts on style elements and sewing advice.

Personally, my favourite safari style jacket is more like a big shirt with convertible collar – perhaps Kwik Sew 3534. (I would leave out the epaulets and cuffs.)

- – -

Accessories

2 pairs of flat shoes – ballet flats and sandals.
Wedge heels would also work with this group.
Rasband has chosen leather, but the current rope trim and fabric upper sandals would also co-ordinate. Or fabric rather than leather ballet flats.

Big bangle and belt go well with safari styling. These are bigger and more aggressive than I would wear. (Never a big belt across my hips ) You could use softer or more ornate styling for jewellery and belts, especially if you don’t use a strictly blazer type jacket, and you round off the corners of style elements.

Rasband doesn’t show a bag, but this is a good group for wearing with a big fabric bag. Perhaps the new Marcy Tilton Vogue 8823.

- – -

I have a second post planned on choosing a wider variety of styles for a similar capsule, and for making your look ‘this season’.

Enjoy your clothes choices for a mild summer

- – -

Links and patterns available May 2012

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Hey, on Friday this blog passed 250,000 total visitors. Many thanks for all your interest

= = =

The last few pattern issues have been mainly sheath and vintage dresses. I know those shapes are current but I don’t wear them myself and have difficulty working up any interest. Don’t see many people round here wearing them either, even though this is a young university suburb. Many short skirts, leggings and sweaters, but not dresses. Perhaps it’s different at parties in a big city.

I’m also becoming interested in flounces – though only in moderation.

Anyway, this set of Vogues has so much I want to mention this post got very long. So I’ve made 2 sections, this one on dresses, and another on separates, jackets and bags.

Yes these are dresses, but ‘interesting’ ones, not just sheaths (which are a very Classic style )

The most common current dress shapes are :
- close fitted sheath,
- vintage 50s – fitted bodice and big skirt,
- classic shirt-waist.

These patterns add :
- shift,
- tent-triangle,
- drapes, swathes, flounces.

- – -

Shift dresses, some with colour blocking

Very Easy Vogue 8805

Very Easy Vogue 8806 – similar but with set in sleeves, different yoke placement, and a hood. I can see myself in this as a top or tunic.

Vogue 1300 – a simple elegant flounced shift from DKNY, another possibility for a top. And another I might wear myself.

-

Tent shape

Now this is more for me

Vogue 1301 – fascinating options from Koos. Could be a thigh length tunic.

Very Easy Vogue 8807 – a simpler version swirling from a yoke. Another I think could make a good top or tunic.

-

Drapes and flounces from designers

Vogue 1304 – lots of shaping interest from Lialia. If you’ve got the right body to go inside it

Vogue 1302 – close swathes from Kay Unger. Again lovely if you’ve got the shape for it, but not something I could wear myself.


Vogue 1305 – oh joy, something really interesting from Lialia. Not for me to wear, but understanding how it works as a pattern gives me great pleasure.


Wow, a pattern that actually looks better on a body than in a line diagram.
But another style that leaves nowhere for a less than perfect shape to hide.

Vogue 8813 – drapes from Marcy Tilton.


Well, hiding bodies maybe, but Vogue recommends this for the pear shaped. Hmm, thanks but no thanks. I like crafters’ smocks, but wouldn’t feel flattered in this – though I can imagine people I know who have a different body shape and would love this.

-

Are these separates or a colour blocked dress ?

Vogue 1310 – more elegance, in bias lines from Chado Ralph Rucci.

- – -

Not much I would wear myself, but great pattern interest and pleasure.

My second post, about new patterns for separates, has styles I’ll be more likely to wear.

Which do you enjoy ?

- – -

Patterns available May 2012

= = =

Personal style : Many people, me included, don’t wear the Classic style. Crispness and close fit don’t suit my body shape or my personality, though many people love them. I have rather a lot of posts on personal style.

Personal wardrobe plan : For many people, me included, that group of garment types – fitted jacket, top, pants, skirt, dress – doesn’t include the garment types we wear.
Here’s my post on finding your personal basic wardrobe plan.
The only wardrobe plan I’ve seen that represents what I wear is the Sewing Workshop layering wardrobe (my post).

Lifestyle has a big influence on your best wardrobe plan. Most published wardrobe plans are more useful for people who need to look efficient at work.

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The word ‘classic’

So consider a much wider range of garment types and styles. And remember the word ‘classic’ has multiple meanings.
It can mean :
- a style with clear rules and little ornament, often considered a guide to what is good in design.
- a style which has endured, has stood the test of time.

In clothes I think the word ‘classic’ has two meanings :
The Classic style, as in my previous post.

The classics : these are garments which don’t have the simple clear Classic style but have been worn with pleasure for decades.
Such as Jeans.
Did you notice that none of the classic wardrobe plans I picked out mentions jeans ? Judith Rasband (“Wardrobe Strategies for Women” book) thinks they aren’t basic, as you can’t combine them with anything else and look good on any and every situation. What is acceptable has relaxed since she wrote her book 15 years ago, but that is still somewhat true. But jeans are one of the top selling garments of recent times. They are certainly an enduring style. So they are ‘classic’ in the sense of having been worn by many people over for a long period of time, even though they are not ‘classic’ in style. They’re classic casuals.

Think of the peasant blouse and tiered skirt, or the kaftan – instantly recognisable. They are enduring styles even though they are nothing like Classic style. Many of these styles are so well known they have their own names, and there are books on them for design students.

Perhaps I’m being nit-picky about this. It’s probably easier to call these enduring styles rather than classics.

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My essential patterns

I know my personal wardrobe plan includes pullover layers, big shirts, vests, parkas.

As the next step on from knowing my personal wardrobe needs, I’ve been asking myself a focus question : what is the minimum number of patterns I could manage with ?

Several reasons for this, as a guide to :
- what I need as Tried ‘N True patterns for my own basic wardrobe.
- and even more fundamentally, what blocks I need as a basis for developing my own patterns, or morphing style elements onto from commercial patterns, so they fit me well.
- what are the sewing techniques and fabrics it’s most important for me to be relaxed about.

This has made me think, not just what garment types I wear, but also how they vary during the seasons, and what specific style elements I usually wear. To cover the whole year, I’ve managed to get the number of patterns down, not to a ‘Core 4′ but to a ‘Basic Eight’ or, including outerwear, a ‘Top Ten’. My summer/ winter clothes need different patterns as they have :
- different fabrications,
- different amounts of ease to allow for layering. As I wear many layers, I need more ease in my winter clothes than many patterns provide.

My essential Top Ten are :
- summer and winter blouse/ shirts with collars (summer one worn alone needs to cover my hips, winter one worn under other layers is best fitted and shorter),
- summer and winter pullover layers,
- summer and winter front opening big shirt/ jacket layers,
- winter vest,
- pants,
- summer and winter hooded parkas.

These layers are not alternatives to give different style effects, they may all be worn at the same time

-

My essentials are fashionable

Although several of my Top Ten don’t appear in most wardrobe plans, they’re easy styles to buy, so obviously not unfashionable.

Here are some current examples from Polyvore.

summer weight layering pullover


Even UK Elle has a spread on these this month (June 2012).

winter pullover
winter layering jacket


winter vest (I’m looking at Polyvore in the spring, and didn’t find a picture of a padded vest, which I wear all the time in winter)


summer and winter parka (only summer ones shown)


I don’t wear a fitted jacket often enough for one to make it to my list of essentials, but here are some examples. Just to show you aren’t limited to blazer, shawl collar, cascade !

Hundreds of choices at Polyvore, so obviously I haven’t got unusual tastes, even if these garments don’t appear in wardrobe plans from the experts

These layering pullovers, big shirts or loose jackets and vests are ‘basics’ for me, as I wear them all the time. The Polyvore ones I’ve picked don’t all co-ordinate beautifully, but it’s possible to co-ordinate a smaller selection. As usual, it’s easier to get them to co-ordinate if they have few individual style elements.

-

My essential sewing techniques

The Classics can involve tailoring and intricate couture, the epitome of high class sewing. But those techniques are not part of my clothing style, so not something I need beat myself up about not being able to do. Many people enjoy that sort of sewing as a skill to take pleasure in for it’s own sake. My favourite sewing skills are more in the direction of embellishment, quilting, embroidery and heirloom sewing. That may fit with my preference for softer lines.

Key techniques also include familiarity with fabrics. Do you need to be able to sew with gabardine and fine silks ? I need to know about sewing cotton, linen, fleece, velvet, crepe, brocade, fake fur. People with a more romantic style may want to know how to handle charmeuse, satin, chiffon, lace. People with a more casual style may want to know how to sew a variety of knits, or ‘performance’ protective fabrics, as their priorities.

-

Oh I do feel so much happier looking at my own style choices rather than all that crisp tailoring and skin tight knits

How about Krista Larson Clothing to remind you there are possibilities which are nothing like the formal Classics

Which styles warm your heart ?

- – -

Links available April 2012

= = =

Some people have no difficulty with fit. But obviously many of us do need help, as we support a huge industry of books and teachers and companies providing tools. It’s fascinating how many different methods there are.

I’ve pulled together all the information I have about methods which are supposed to make it easier to get a good basic block. These links have been scattered around in various posts. So here’s the combined list in case it’s helpful.

- – -

Pattern Drafting Software

Most pattern making software has a demo version so you can check if you like the method of working. Though you do have to pay out before you can find if it produces a good pattern for your own body shape. The software packages include guidance about improving the fit. Sadly that doesn’t necessarily work, if the calculations don’t allow for your particular body shape specialities.

Bernina My Label [support discontinued at end of 2012]

Dress Shop

Garment Designer   (link on left in menu along top)

My Pattern Designer

Pattern Maker

Pattern Master
They have introductory software on fitting garments, so you can check if their basic blocks work for you.
 
A few more comments in my post on pattern making software.

P. S. Your Personal Fit and pattern.stringcodes.com are 2 companies that do the calculating and printing out for you. Claim to send you basic personal blocks drafted from measurements you send them.
Fit Me Patterns claims to do the same for specific styles.
I don’t know anything about these.

- – -

Tracing methods

There are also paper-and-pencil easy ‘personal fit’ methods. Allow for a limited number of measurements.

Bonfit Patterner
Top, skirt, pants – plastic templates slide together to make different sizes.

Fit Nice System
Tracing very simple basic shapes for knit top and elastic waist pants. Many suggestions for pattern alterations.

Sure Fit Designs
Bodice, skirt, pants, shirt, by join-the-dots tracing method. Good booklets on pattern alterations.

The Lutterloh System only allows for bust and hip measurements. When I was trying these methods I already knew that was not enough for me.

A few more comments in my post on easier fitting shells.

- – -

Simplest basic block drafting from scratch

For people who’re willing to do the work themselves, there are basic pattern drafting instructions on the web. Start with your measurements and a large piece of paper, and make your own basic patterns.

Perhaps the best known free ones are from Burda Style :

Fitted bodice with darts
[If your front is not average in size or location, you may want to add shoulder-to-bust-point, shoulder-to-waist-over-bust-point, and bust-point-to-bust-point measures to this method. Or try Sure-Fit Designs. Also doesn't include sloping/ square shoulders, high round back. . .]

Sleeve
[Doesn't include a bicep measure, so not much help for large arms.]

Simple bra pattern
[Developed from the bodice block, so has the same limitations.]

Skirt
[Doesn't allow for different measurements front and back.]

Conversion to princess line dress

Loose fit dartless top

Trousers/ pants
[Doesn't include crotch length. Or allowing for the different effects waist-to-crotch height, flat/ large butt or abdomen, deep torso, sway front/ back have on the pattern needed.]

All pattern drafting methods using personal measurements claim to give a well fitting personal block, but they all have similar limitations. As do the software methods based on them. They would have to be horrifically complicated to include all 88 fitting topics in the Liechty book (see below). These detailed personal adjustments really are made more easily using a muslin.

If you’d like to start your pattern drafting with something simpler, here’s a couple of books.

The simplest is :
Jessop & Sekora. Sew What ! Fleece
Simple patterns and simple sewing instructions for near beginners.

A bit more complex :
Cal Patch. Design-It-Yourself Clothes
Basic tee, shirt, dress, skirt, pants, plus instructions for pattern alterations. Minimal sewing instructions.

For a list of some pattern making books, see my post on Pattern making – the formal route.

- – -

Altering a muslin to fit

Sadly the ‘easy’ methods don’t work for everyone.
I spent several disconcerting years trying most of these methods (including a couple of top-of-the-line software systems and some college level pattern drafting books) without getting a good fit.

I finally realised the only way that worked for me was to start with a muslin for a basic block (from any source) and do a lot of alterations using the information in the marvellous fitting book :
Liechty et al. Fitting and Pattern Alteration. 2nd edtn.

Yes, ‘doing it the hard way’ – but
Hurrah, success at last

If you’re very lucky you can find a good professional dressmaker to do this for you.

If I’d started this way, instead of spending years trying all the ‘quick and easy’ methods, I might have got there much faster. On the other hand, I don’t think I would have had the knowledge about patterns and my body to be able to ‘see’ the alterations needed, from the start. Like many other aspects of styling, for many of us getting a good fit is a learning process, not something that can be got right in one step.

Butterick, McCall’s and Vogue all have patterns for basic fitting garments you could start from. With some instructions about how to adapt them to fit better (not enough for me).

Butterick 5627 dress, for sizes 6 to 22.
Butterick 5628 dress, for sizes 16W to 32W.

McCall’s 2718 dress with bodice fronts for 5 cup sizes. Individual patterns for sizes 6 to 22.

Vogue 1004, dress, individual patterns for sizes 6 to 22.
Vogue 1003, pants, individual patterns for sizes 6 to 22.

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A mixed method

Donald McCunn How to make sewing patterns has instructions for a simple personal block. You make a muslin from that. Plus instructions on altering that to fit an individual body.

He also has online classes with many videos which show how to do the pattern drafting, sew the muslin, and adjust it to fit well. Plus photos of different body shapes and alterations they need.

- – -

Kitchen cling film

Or have some fun with a helper and a generous supply of kitchen wrap.

Here’s the original article describing the wrapping method, by Kathleen Fasanella.

Here’s a blogger telling it for real with many photos

This isn’t a completely simple method, as you need to add movement ease to the basic body shapes, to have a wearable pattern.

- – -

Oh dear, this was supposed to be a quick summary but I keep thinking of comments.

I’m considering a post on which methods include which measures and so which body shape features. But even if it’s possible that may be rather a large task.

Sadly, none of the tools which are supposed to produce a well fitting basic block without much effort actually work for me. And I haven’t got a good helper. Don’t know how many of us have this difficulty. But I’m no longer innocent. Don’t believe any marketing claims that a simple method works for everyone ! Now I’ve found what I need in the Liechty book, I’m quite relaxed about it all. Before this I had several upsetting and confusing years without success, trying many methods which claimed to give a good fit but didn’t work well for my body shape. Ah well, it was one way of learning about fit.

So if the easy methods produce a successful pattern for you – then how marvellous for you, and how lucky you are. I’m jealous

- – -

Links available April 2012

= = =

Judith Rasband‘s simplest wardrobe cluster is a group of 5 items.

Her March 2012 newsletter makes the case for wardrobe basics very clearly, These simple clothes with very few added style elements are mainly what is called the ‘Classic’ style.

Buying into fashion lines that feature garments with simple design lines is the smart way to dress.  These clothes are called “basics” because you can build most of your wardrobe with them.  With simple design lines, basics don’t call a lot of attention to themselves.  Basics don’t have design lines that fight with other garment’s design lines.  Most basics don’t go out of style.  You can find basics that are affordable.  Some of my favorites are
basic blazer and bomber jackets,
basic V-neck tops,
basic sport [band collar] and camp shirts,
basic straight and flared skirts,
and basic straight-leg slacks. 
With a wardrobe built on basics, you can afford a more complex or decorative garment once in awhile because it will go with most of your basics, adding a surprise element to your usual looks.  Building your wardrobe on basics is the way to go! 

Rasband counts a style ‘basic’ if it’s so simple that it will co-ordinate easily with pretty well any other style. So, for example, a ‘basic’ top co-ordinates with almost any skirt or pants style.

One of each of her basics would give you a ‘cluster’ of 5 items, perhaps as many as 10 different outfits.

Basics which include a blazer jacket also make good business wear for many people. Their simplicity means they don’t draw attention to themselves but do look efficient.

Perfectly Packed suggests a basic business wardrobe of 8 classic items :
suit fabric : blazer jacket, straight skirt, pants.
dressier fabric : zip-front jacket, sheath dress.
lighter fabric : sleeveless top, a-line skirt (together make a 2-piece dress).
shirting fabric : shirt.

I reckon you can make 21 different outfits out of these, enough for every day of a working month. Add another blouse or shirt and that adds 9 more combinations.

Similar classic styles make the basis of many other published wardrobe plans. Such as Nancy Nix-Rice’s basic wardrobe, newsletter issues 21 – 28.

- – -

Reproducing the basic classic wardrobe

You only need a couple of wardrobe patterns and 4 fabrics.

Butterick 5760

darkest neutral suit fabric : jacket, skirt, pants.
lightest neutral shirting : shirt (shorten dress).
(the knit cardigan gets mentioned later)

Butterick 5147

mid neutral dress weight : top, a-line skirt.
mid neutral dressy fabric : jacket (made without collar and with zip front), sheath dress.

- – -

‘Modern classics’

There are versions of the classic styles which look more ‘modern’ because they are crisp, close fitting, a little edgy.

The Vivienne Files frequently suggests basic minimum wardrobe groups in ‘modern classics’ style.
For instance some of her recent posts are on wardrobe groups consisting of neutrals plus one accent colour :
- 5 core dark neutral garments (for her that’s usually 2 tops, 2 bottoms, dress),
- a couple of white or light neutral tops,
- an accent jacket,
- 6 other garments in accent colour.
That’s 7 neutral garments and 7 accents.

Example here. And some of her other posts : one, two, three.

This modern take on classics includes many knits. Her basics include tees, knit classic cardigans, and leggings as essentials.

Tees, both fitted and looser and longer. Many tee patterns of course, one is McCall’s 6491.

Knit cardigan closing to neck, see Butterick 5760, first pattern mentioned in this post.

Slim pants pattern by Palmer-Pletsch, McCall’s 6440 (seams down back, 4 hem styles).

Leggings : McCall’s 6360 is one of many leggings patterns, 4 styles 4 lengths.

The ‘modern classic’ style is essentially sleek and close fitting, crisp in wovens. If you’d like to explore beyond Big 4 patterns, look to :
Burda Style downloads
styleARC

Notice I don’t call these ‘young classics’, as anyone can wear them if you’re the right shape

- – -

Doesn’t mean of course that you have to wear these styles, or be limited to colours of black, white, grey, and denim blue. . . [aargh, eek]

As frequently happens, I find myself thinking about classics because many people write about them, even though I never wear them myself.

Does the classic style make you feel your best ? or make you feel constricted and constrained and unable to be your true self ? It’s very interesting this. The Vivienne Files recently posted on her everyday basics here. I actually shuddered. She loves these, but if I had to wear them I would find it completely soul destroying. Even if they weren’t all black, they’re the wrong shapes and fabrics for me. Fascinating that people can be so different.

For those of us who never wear classics ? We have to do a bit of thinking outside the box to work out how wardrobe plans like this match up with our own needs.

I have a whole lot of reactions to all this, some of which I’ve cycled through many times before. As usual I feel so strongly about this I found myself writing several hundred words, so it’s become a separate post (here).

There’s much to enjoy here. I’m fascinated by clothes and style, and I enjoy looking at and thinking about the classics. But it’s definitely not a style for me to wear myself !

- – -

Patterns and links available April 2012

= = =

I recently wrote some comments at Stitchers Guild on sources of wardrobing advice for beginners. Ejvc commented it’s easy to find garments in the right colours, shapes, personal styles (all except fit !) when shopping. Because you can try before you buy. But much more difficult to get it right when sewing, because you have to wait ’til you’ve finished to know what you’ve got.

Good points. But I think there are many things we can do to increase our success rate. We haven’t got to work completely in the dark until the last moment about what we’re getting.

Incidentally, these are all things that designers do.  They don’t expect to get their designs right first time without any testing of the real life item (as opposed to the mental dream or the glamourised sketch !). They develop on from styles that have been used before, rather than starting afresh for every garment. And they test frequently during development, so they can give up quickly and without guilt on styles that don’t work out.

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Colours and fabrication

I always check colours and fabrics before cutting (preferably before buying !). Hold them up against myself in a full length mirror. Is it a flattering colour ? fabrication, texture, pattern in my style ? good on my body (too stiff or too soft) ?

Also hold the fabric up to test how it drapes.
If you have a dress form, pin the fabric on in a rough approximation of the style – does it look good ? drape right ? have the effect you were thinking of ?

There is no longer a fabric shop here. And buying fabrics on-line is a problem for me. Small differences in shade can make a big difference to whether the colour is flattering. And those small differences aren’t usually reproduced well on screen.
I have a rule not to buy without a sample. I still have problems with :
- fabrics that look different in a large piece than in a small sample.
- fabrics that I’ve bought samples of, and then a different dye lot turns out to be completely different. . .
But those problems happen less often than they would without taking any care.

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Good on your body shape

Sketching a style onto a personal croquis is a great help (if you have the skills ).

Even if you don’t make fit alterations to patterns : know what wearing ease you like for this sort of style, and measure the pattern to make sure it won’t be too large or too small. I remember a top in a favourite fabric that looked so fool-proof I didn’t make any measurements or trials – and it had cut-on sleeves that were too tight round the armhole.

Though measuring doesn’t save me from all disasters. I made a top from a pretty print in just the right colour. PR reviews warned about the neckline. I carefully measured, and all seemed well. But when I tried the finished garment on, it slipped off my shoulders so much it was unwearable.

If I had tried on either garment part-made, a simple alteration could have solved the problem. The neckline problem wouldn’t have shown up in tissue fitting, as it was caused by the way fabric flexed on my sloping shoulders, which made the neckline much wider in wear.

There are many good reasons to make a muslin as part of the pre-planning – check the proportions, ease levels, style element placing, etc. as well as the fit, before wasting the good fabric.

Moral – much basting and frequent try-outs needed at each possible stage of making. . .  Many problems can be rescued (let out seam allowances, add a dart, pleat, or godet ).  If not, a UFO in the middle of construction is a better outcome than spending a lot of time finishing something that turns out to be unwearable. 

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Personal style

Go to a store and try on new styles to see if they flatter you, then look for a similar pattern.

It helps to be aware of your own style – quickly filters out a lot of options. Remember one person’s ‘faves’ can be another person’s ‘never’. I enjoy a recent post from The Vivienne Files. Several of the softer items she avoids are my everyday wear (my thoughts on a successful cascade jacket are here). And most of the trim-fit ‘modern classics’ she loves would look dreadful on me – not flattering for my body shape, personal style, colouring. (Try Burda Style or styleARC patterns if you want to copy.) I do agree with her about many ‘no-no’ items, but a ‘goth’ or an enthusiastic fashionista would love those spikes and skulls or designer logos. Or perhaps you enjoy casual casuals (here are my posts on sweatshirts and hoodies). Or do you feel at your best in square cut loose fitting ‘arty’ clothes and love Sewing Workshop or Cutting Line patterns.

I’m lucky I have a good visual imagination. I stand in front of a mirror holding a picture of a possible style, and imagine myself wearing it. Also while I’m around locally I imagine myself wearing the style. Has saved me from many mistakes. I now know it’s waste of time starting a project that I’m not sure about, as that will just languish as a UFO.

Or find a designer that works well for you, and stick with their patterns. Not a 100% guarantee of success, but better than random.

If I had to use only one designer, it would be a few patterns by Loes Hinse (here and here, and Textile Studio). But she designs for people with very different shoulders and hips than mine. So her main patterns are not a good starting point for me. Instead I make ‘inspired by’ versions. Or morph the style elements onto my own basic blocks. I also don’t follow her fabric choices, as black, gold, and glitter are not good on me. Hmm, I haven’t got an overlocker (serger) and never wear shoulder pads. Obviously I’m not her ideal customer

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Repeat successful patterns

I tend towards a repeating wardrobe because I know what has worked well in the past. (And I’m a timid learner.) But not to worry – that fits in well with most wardrobe building suggestions

Here’s a valuable comment from CCCouture at Stitchers Guild.

“I was just in Las Vegas for the International Textile Expo and lived a dream for a bit in the Chanel RTW Boutique in the Shops at the Bellagio.

I was quite surprised, that while the fabrics are gorgeous, there’s really not much sewing in the RTW pieces.   It’s the fabrics, trims and other findings (buttons) that make them so unique.”

Making small variations to a basic style is what some of the top designers do

Improving your success rate is another good reason to develop new styles by changing details of familiar patterns. Or morph style elements onto good basic personal blocks. Rather than starting from scratch with a new commercial pattern every time.

Though repeating isn’t the best strategy for people who like a lot of variety in their wardrobe. Or variety in their sewing

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Practice unfamiliar skills

I always do this, and it amazes me that some people don’t practise before trying a new technique for real. But I know this is another strong personality feature, and many people would not be at all happy if they had to follow my slow and careful ways

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The use of time

For every aspect of getting things right (colour, fabric, shape, fit, style, technique. . . ), the best tool for success is try on, try on, try on, at every stage possible.

Many people enjoy the sewing but not the testing.  And many other people like to just ‘jump in and have a go’. I think they have to accept that their emphasis is on the sewing not the result. So, much of what they make will be samples to learn from, rather than wearable items. For me, the good results are well worth the extra effort.

Part of sewing success is a recognition of the use of time – it’s not just about sewing.
Pattern preparation, fabric preparation (my biggest dislike), cutting out, marking, developing sewing skills and finding good techniques for a particular process, pressing, checking what you’ve made so far – they’re all processes which take substantial amounts of time to get right. They can’t just be rushed through (or left out altogether !).

So find a way of making them fun. Sew in a way that makes all the processes a treat for you

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Links available April 2012

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I’ve already posted on the quick top and dress patterns available.

Here are some patterns for skirts, pants and jackets which the pattern companies claim can be sewn in 2 hours or less.

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Skirts and pants

Few of the patterns in my previous post on quick skirts and pants are still in print.
Happily there are several to add.

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Skirts

Textile Studio Brussels one-seam skirt with elastic waist

Textile Studio Manhattan skirt with darts, zip, back slit, several lengths

McCall’s 5430 wrap skirt

McCall’s 6567 elastic waist skirt with various lengths and hems, there’s also a mock wrap version.

These patterns from my previous post on quick skirts are still in print :
Simplicity 2368 skirt with dirndl, mock wrap and 4 gore styles, 3 lengths.
Silhouette 2050 straight wrap skirt with darts, button closure, no vertical seams.

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Pants

Butterick 5153 one-seam pants, for women, men, children, various lengths

McCall’s 6568 elastic waist pants, 3 lengths, 2 leg shapes

Silhouette 3400 yoga pants. Also webcast and DVD about using this pattern. Webcast and DVD say how to convert for wovens.

Textile Studio Soho Pant, slim fitting with darts and invisible zip.

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Combination patterns

Simplicity 2414 tiered skirt + elastic waist pants

New Look 6816 for knit skirt, pants and top

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Layers

I haven’t found many new patterns for jackets, but fortunately several of the patterns mentioned in my previous posts are still in print.
Wardrobe patterns
Layers and capsules
Fast jackets

These are some to add :

McCall’s 6084 is a cascade shawl collar jacket for wovens with 4 sleeve lengths

In an e-mail Peggy Sagers says a couple of Silhouette patterns for knits can be made in an hour :

Silhouette Patterns 195 Sweater set

Silhouette Patterns 211 Nina’s top

Not so quick, but there’s a new version of the Palmer-Pletsch 8 hour jacket, McCall’s 6172.

Sadly the Butterick 4138 pattern which claims you can make a blazer in 2 hours is now out of print

For outerwear, there’s McCall’s 6209 ponchos, which have a variety of shapes and necklines, not all shown here.

Still in print from previous posts :
McCall’s 2260 unlined vests
Butterick 5224 knit jackets.
McCall’s 5241 knit cascade style jacket has 3 front lengths all with the same back
Butterick 4989 cascade/ waterfall jackets
McCall’s 3448 ponchos

And nearly all the patterns in my post on fast jackets from independent designers are still in print.

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This year the focus of the Stitchers Guild Sewing With A Plan contest is Tried ‘N True patterns you can use repeatedly to make clothes that work well for you.
Would any of these speedy patterns fill that role for you ?

So have you got time to complete your SWAP wardrobe ?

23 days of SWAP left. Goodness, make one garment a day and you have time for Nancy Nix-Rice’s whole 23 item wardrobe

Holiday weekend – enough time to make a ‘Core 4′ of top, jacket, skirt, pants.

Or, if you’re just missing one item for SWAP, find 15 minutes a day for the rest of the month.

Happy Sewing

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Patterns and links available April 2012

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Two previous posts on this pattern :
- the interest and usefulness of wardrobe patterns with 5 rather than 4 items. And some other patterns with more items (post here).
- a few comments on how the shape elements of the different garments in this pattern work together (post here).

This post is about how shapes fit together for layering : is one layer large enough to be comfortable over another ? I’m not attempting to say everything there is to say about layering of all styles !

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Movement ease

‘Ease’ is the amount the garment is bigger than the wearer’s body measurements.

The most basic is ‘movement ease’, the amount that needs to be added to be able to wear the garment at all. For wovens, this is usually either 2 inches/ 5 cm or 4 inches / 10 cm at bust level. Some people prefer a close fitting basic style. Other people like their basics a little looser.

Some personal pattern drafting instructions produce a basic block with 2 inches ease, some produce one with 4 inches. Check whether the drafting adds 1/2 inch or 1 inch to the quarter measure at bust level. If you’re going to draft your own pattern block from scratch, look for a method which produces the basic ease level you prefer.

As knit fabrics have stretch, they provide inherent movement ease. Even so, some people like loose knits, some people like no ease. Very close fitting garments made from very stretch fabrics (swimsuits, leotards) may even be designed with negative ease (cut smaller than the body).

So pattern making books have separate basic pattern blocks for knits and body fitting clothes. Different basic blocks for fabrics with different amounts of stretch.

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Bending room

In the simplest fitting shell, ‘movement ease’ just means enough room to breathe. You may need more room for real movements.

For example, my sitting hip measure is about 4 inches larger than my standing hip measure. Many skirt and pants patterns have 2 inches ease at hip level. In those patterns, I need to go up a size, to add another 2 inches of ease. So I can wear that style without straining the fabric.

This isn’t a problem with the pants of McCall’s 6519 as they are very loose fitting, with hip ease of more than 9 inches.

It could cause problems with sitting down in that wrap skirt, and I would probably make a muslin to check.

If you are an active person, and like to be comfortable, you may find you need a larger armhole and more fabric at elbow and knee. And you probably know you only like some skirt styles, because you can walk and dance freely in them.

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Design ease

Then add on ‘design ease’, the extra needed to give the garment the shape and style that’s wanted. This affects whether a garment is close fitting or very loose. The BMV ease table shows total ease, movement ease plus design ease.

There are modern jacket styles (not the one in McCall’s 6519) which are close fitting, with only movement ease. For example, Basic Patternmaking in Fashion by Lucia Mors uses the same block for making both jacket and dress. These close fitting jackets aren’t mentioned in the BMV ease table. They’re made in jacket fabrics with jacket styling, but not meant to be layered over anything more than a camisole. So it’s worth checking the ease level of your pattern. (Total ease = difference between finished garment measurement and your measurement.)

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Layering ease

So ‘design ease’ includes ‘layering ease’ if need be. Make sure there’s enough room to put one garment on over another. Best to have at least 1 inch/ 2.5 cm extra ease for every additional layer something needs to be comfortable over, including a lining.

This applies to knits too, if you want them to be comfortable.

The ease levels in McCall’s 6519 at bust height are :
dress (knit) : 1-1/2 inches / 3 cm
top (woven) : 4-1/2 inches / 11 cm
jacket (woven, unlined) : 5-1/2 inches / 13 cm

So it might not look very good, but if you were cold you could wear all three 3 layers at the same time !

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Armholes and sleeves

In this McCall’s 6519 pattern, dress and top are both sleeveless, so the problem of layering the jacket over another sleeve doesn’t arise.

If you want to layer one sleeve over another, then the outer armhole and sleeve need to be larger too.

It’s also easiest if all layers have the same style armhole : all fitted, all cut on, all raglan, all drop shoulder, etc. Most armhole shapes work over fitted, but not the other way round !

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Now there are three posts inspired by McCall’s 6519. The first two were on :
5-item wardrobe patterns
co-ordination of shapes

In the first post I mentioned the easy ways of adding more items to a wardrobe pattern to make a core wardrobe : changing fabrics and lengths. Those easy ways may not add much to the sewing interest

How to add more styles when starting from one pattern ? If you’re ready to try a little pattern altering, you don’t have to go straight to a full-scope professional-training pattern-making bible. There are many simpler sources of advice to use as a starting point. Am planning a post listing some of them.

Or if having ideas for capsules and small wardrobes is the point you get stuck at, look at The Vivienne Files or Polyvore. You may not share their ‘modern classics’ styling, but they’re full of ideas for combinations that make outfits and capsules.

Enjoy

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Patterns and links available March 2012

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Here are links to my previous posts on speedy patterns. These were written nearly 2 years ago, and sadly some patterns are now oop.
Wardrobe patterns
Fast jackets
Dresses
Tops
Skirts and pants
Layers and capsules

Here are the patterns I’ve found since then – patterns that the pattern companies claim only take 1 to 2 hours sewing time.

Double/ treble that time to include pattern adjustments for fit, cutting out, seam finishing, pressing. Say 4 to 6 hours needed in all. (I like to work very slowly )

There are 37 days of SWAP time left. Could you manage 10 minutes of sewing time a day ? or one day of concentrated sewing ?

Surprising numbers of patterns to mention, so I’ve needed to expand this to several posts.
This one on tops and dresses.
Plus links to some pattern ranges that don’t have specific timings but use very easy techniques, so presumably are quick to sew !

More planned on skirts, pants, vests, jackets, outerwear.

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Tops

Many tops can of course be lengthened to dresses.

These patterns from my previous post on quick tops are still in print :
Butterick 5948 – basic classic dartless tops.
New Look 6807 – 4 raglan sleeve options, knits.
New Look 6892 – raglan ‘peasant’ style, many sleeve options, wovens.

These are some top patterns from Textile Studio to add to the list :

Textile Studio Tank top, Shell – shell (lower in diagram) for knits

Textile Studio Monaco shell – for knits or stretch fabrics

Textile Studio Santa Monica tee – for knits or stretch fabrics

For a woven blouse/ shirt, there’s Silhouette patterns 600 Classic Blouse, which Peggy Sagers demonstrates sewing in an hour in her webcast.

P.S. In an e-mail Peggy Sagers says these Silhouette patterns for knits can be made in an hour.
115 Anne’s top (cowl neckline)
219 Rachel’s knit top (sleeve emphasis)
312 Giorgio’s top (princess seams and peplum)
Also 95 Brooke’s top for wovens.

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Dresses

Not sure if the pattern companies think all these dress styles can be sewn in only two hours, or only the simplest versions !

Many dress patterns can of course be shortened to tops.

These are some new ones to add to my previous post on quick dresses.

Textile Studio Milan dress

Textile Studio Madison Avenue dress, for knits

McCall’s 6551 shift with 2 necklines, 2 sleeves, 3 hems.

New Look 6889 dress, cap sleeve option

New Look 6890 dress, 5 raglan sleeve options, 3 lengths

Textile Studio Basic dress

McCall’s 6102 dress, a-line, cup sizes to C and D, short sleeve option

McCall’s 6465 dress – slightly a-line, 4 sleeves, 4 hems (longer one not shown here)

Textile Studio Provence dress

McCall’s 6558 3 bodices, elastic waist, 4 hems

These patterns mentioned in my previous post on quick dresses are still in print :
New Look 6804, sleeveless.
McCall’s 6074, gathered front, sleeveless, for knits.
McCall’s 5893, empire bodice, short sleeve option, for knits.
Butterick 5211, shift dress, short sleeves.
McCall’s 9172, a-line, short sleeves.
McCalls 5855, kaftan.

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Pattern ranges using the easiest techniques

Some other pattern ranges offer an even wider selection of simply sewn styles, though they don’t make claims about sewing time.

For softer current styles, see the Simplicity Sew Simple range (don’t appear to be available in the UK).

If you like more ‘arty’ styles, there are Shapes patterns, some of which have only one or two main pattern pieces.

Textile Studio have some other patterns they say take 2-1/2 to 3 hours sewing time.

Patterns specifically for beginners are presumably quick to sew – for people who are beyond the beginner stage

There are Simplicity ‘Learn to Sew‘ patterns.

And some of the BMV patterns picked for their “Sew Cool in School” program look easy.

Also Kwik Sew Kwik Start patterns are well known for their clear instructions.

I don’t personally think some of the BMV designations about ease of sewing are all that helpful. Very Easy Vogue, and some McCall’s Easy patterns, seem to me to be need Intermediate skills, and certainly wouldn’t be quick to make

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A surprisingly large range of different possibilities.

You won’t find a quick fitted style, as you need an opening to get into them. Which means buttonholes, zip, or wrap styling. Not speedy to do well.

How about taking this quick sewing to the extreme ? If one of these garments only needs 10 minutes a day to get it done in the 5+ weeks before the end of SWAP – take 2 hours a day and you’ve got time to make 12 garments, a whole wardrobe

So best wishes for getting some quick results, if that’s what you enjoy

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Patterns and links available March 2012

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It’s interesting to look at how a wardrobe pattern solves the problems of co-ordination. There are several.

One is the shapes visually, such as : does a loose fitting jacket look good with loose fitting pants, what necklines go together. . . I’ll say a bit about this pattern here. There could be many more points about co-ordinating shape and style elements once you add other patterns to supplement this one. A possible topic for another post.

Another issue is : do the shapes fit together for layering : is the jacket/ overlayer large enough to be comfortable over other garments ? Later post planned on this.

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Visual shapes

Some wardrobe patterns co-ordinate shapes by using garments with few distinctive style elements.

The garments in this pattern have some style interest but still co-ordinate. They do that by having some common style elements.

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Necklines and collars

Many people have difficulty co-ordinating neckline and collar shapes. What looks good, what is comfortable. . .

There are 3 necklines here :
- shawl collar with notch on edge-to-edge front (jacket).
- wide notched collar above wrap front (dress).
- simple scoop neck (top).

Notice that it’s quite easy to combine two notched collars if they differ in width, or how deep/ big the notch is, or how high the notch is on the body.

Here’s a photo from Kibbe’s “Metamorphosis” oop book showing some bravura notched collar co-ordinating. Two collars with notches of different shapes at different heights, plus a convertible collar. (A shirt collar would also work well – worn closed for a more ‘controlled’ look.)



(Notice also how this designer uses different textures in the nearly same shade. And the dramatic accessories give a very different impact to the classic clothes. Imagine these clothes more fitted – this outfit is from the 80s when clothes were big shouldered and loose fitting !)

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Silhouettes

In McCall’s 6519, an edge-to-edge jacket works well over a wrap style, so long as the wrap doesn’t have a lot of fullness.
The simple top can be worn tucked in or out, for more or less formal effect.

The skirt and lower dress are the same pattern pieces.
Skirts and pants share a similar style element – pleats, which makes them good alternatives.

The pants are very loose fitting (9-1/2 inches ease at hip level). So they look best with a not too large jacket. This one has 5-1/2 inches ease at bust level, semi-fitted by BMV ease criteria.

I wrote a previous post on simplifying co-ordinates by using a limited number of shapes.

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Type of line

Released pleats give a soft line (sewn down pleats have an more angular effect). Dress, skirt and pants all have these soft lines. The neckline of the top continues with the curves. Knits for dress and skirt also add softness.

Although the jacket and dress notch corners are angled in the pattern, they are softer in the line drawings. You could use slightly rounded corners on the bottom of the front openings and the patch pockets. Or of course you can have mixed curves and angles. Which goes best with your body shapes and lines, your personality ?

A pattern with curves and pleats like this might be better suited to someone who has soft lines in their face and body, or a gentler personality.

If you have straighter more angular lines to your face and body, or need to look crispy efficient, you might prefer Butterick 5760. Angular styling, except for a little softening in jacket silhouette and lapels.

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These two posts have looked at one pattern in detail. There’s more to say on layering, in another post (here). And possibly more later on using this pattern to build a wardrobe. . . Very different from the way most of us usually sew – when we make a different pattern in a different fabric every time

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Patterns and links available March 2012

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