Most of these pattern books emphasise pattern altering rather than wardrobe building. All have a pack of full sized patterns, usually conventional tissue.

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Colette Sewing Handbook
by Sarai Mitnick of Colette Patterns.
(link to Amazon)


(not all to same scale)

Patterns for several fitted-waist dresses, top and skirt. No jacket or pants. Look like warm weather styles to me Nothing with long sleeves among her main top and dress patterns either, and only a couple with high necks. She’s in Portland, Oregon – hmm. Obviously she doesn’t feel the cold, she wears these styles even in winter. No jacket and only one coat in her main patterns (here’s a detailed coat sew-along by Gertie). There is a pants pattern, if you’d like to add them. Don’t know about sizing in the book, but her conventional patterns go up to 46 inch bust, 48 inch hip (BMV size 24).

I haven’t seen this book but it gets excellent reviews, including for the wardrobe advice and the sewing instructions. Some fit advice. Website also has sewing techniques, fitting and pattern altering advice.

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Built by Wendy Dresses
by Wendy Mullin.

Patterns for :
- raglan ‘sheath’ with front darts. Despite the name and the darts, there’s only a little waist definition, this isn’t closely fitted. Some styles with zip.
- loose shift dress with set-in sleeves.
- dress with fitted bodice (french darts), waistline seam and gathered skirt. All styles with zip.

Instructions for at least 8 versions of each pattern, plus many more suggestions. You’re expected to draft pattern pieces like collar, cuffs, pockets, facings, from instructions. Sized up to 41 inch/ 104 cm bust, 44 inch/ 112 cm hip (BMV size 20).

These are casual/ boho/ edgy dresses, not fitted and frilly girly or vintage glamour.
If you like Colette patterns this may not be for you. Or you may prefer this if you avoid closely fitted styles.

A little about body shape and fit. Instructions not for beginner sewers. Some reviewers say they had problems with fit or shape. So do make a trial version.

Combine with her other books to get a wardrobe, see my previous post.

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Sew Serendipity
(link to Amazon)

by Kay Whitt of Serendipity Studio patterns, who also designs for McCall’s.

Patterns for skirt, short-sleeved peasant style top-dress, jacket-coat. Raglan sleeves and empire waists. Up to 44 inch bust, 46 inch hip (BMV size 22).

Half a dozen variations described in detail for each pattern, plus other suggestions. Some guidance for sewing beginners. She tells you how to make a muslin to check fit, but not how to adjust it. Many hand drawn diagrams in the instructions. No discussion of wardrobe co-ordinates. Kay Whitt loves combining many prints, which is very ‘current’.

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Burda Style Sewing Handbook
by Nora Abousteit and Alison Kelly.
(link to Amazon)


Patterns for fitted styles of blouse, skirt, dress, lined coat, bag. Shorten coat for a jacket. Sized up to 41 inch bust, 43-1/2 inch hip (BMV size 20).

Printed book with full-size traceable patterns overlapped like the patterns in Burda magazine (no seam allowances). Or e-book with download patterns. Tell you how to make a muslin, but only a couple of sentences on adjusting it to fit.

Said to be aimed at beginners (several reviewers say it’s not for intermediate or advanced sewers). Personally I wouldn’t recommend this to a beginner, even the most adventurous. Silk charmeuse and lace for a first ever project – what a recipe for misery and disaster. Only 3 of the 15 projects have the lowest skill level rating. And all those require pattern alterations and are not easy easy. The old Burda Level 1-2-3 patterns are all easier than these. Many construction steps briefly explained with no illustrations. I’m disappointed in this as a book for beginners – I was expecting something more like an update of the old Burda beginners books (not in English), which are more realistic about what a beginner can do and have many photos of technique.

If you are a complete beginner, build your confidence with something like Sew What Skirts or DIY Couture before trying this book.

The big emphasis is on making your own versions. Three guided projects for each pattern. Even more possibilities if you swap tops and bottoms around those waist seams. As a source of inspiration for variations the book is good. My guess is the book was only tested on an ‘inner circle’ of Burda Style site users, who are already happy pattern alterers and devise-your-own-method sewers.

These are attractive styles – but only if you already know what you’re doing, or don’t mind many puzzles and disappointments on your way to success.

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If you love dresses, here are some more pattern books. I haven’t seen these myself, and know no more than is available at Amazon. Some of these books focus on fitted styles, some have loose dartless ones. They get mixed reviews, and some patterns are only in small sizes.
Little Green Dresses
Dress Cutting [draft your own 30s styles]
Famous Frocks [simplified versions, photos of styles here]
I am Cute Dresses [photos of some styles, scroll down here.]
Chic Simple Sewing

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Each wardrobe pattern book has its own distinct character and added features. Perhaps the casuals in my previous post on pattern books aren’t to your taste. Are any of these dresses and fitted styles good as a basis for your own special type of wardrobe

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Books and links available January 2012

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Oh those long lists of sewing resolutions. . .

Plan if you love to follow plans. Free-wheel if you love to free-wheel. It’s one of the big personality differences.
Many of the people who like to tell other people how to lead their lives are in the planner group ! Or on the other hand there are all the people who militantly tell you to “let it all hang out”, whether you want to or not. . .

For the coming year : I’m trying to give up the attacks of the “oughts” I get from reading other people’s resolution lists   

Go with what’s right for you. Sewing’s supposed to be a hobby not a guilt-inducer. There’s a good Stitchers Guild thread on not beating yourself up about sewing.

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A little about my past sewing and wardrobe year, especially colour, fit, and style

I’m not happy with show-and-tell of my own sewing. Odd I know as I merrily express strong opinions on everything else. . . But there we are. And many people blog about their sewing and styling adventures in interesting ways. So you’re not missing anything from me.

What general progress have I made ?

Big colour changes. Based on hair, eyes, skin colours – a colour approach which works better for me than others I’ve tried. I now have a group of clothes with caramel/ honey/ muted mid brown as the neutrals. Which I’m very pleased with.

Also realised I had mainly dark tops and light bottoms – oh dear – exactly the wrong way round for those of us who are large hipped. . .

This year I happened to get Judith Rasband’s ‘Wardrobe Strategies for Women’ at about the same time Nancy Nix-Rice posted her wardrobe plan. (Ignore the terrible Rasband cover photo. The book is full of interesting ideas, and it’s fun to imagine updated versions of the inner style photos.) So I’ve been doing a lot of thinking about my needs.

I’m pretty clear now about my best wardrobe plan. And have made good progress with my fitting difficulties. And I know more about how and what I like to learn and sew.

I’m also more clear about my personal clothing style. I don’t often find helpful phrases for me, but “artisan chic” comes close.

If you’re looking for style words, YouLookFab has a current post on defining your style persona. The comments are full of useful adjectives. Surprising how many people want both ‘boho’ and ‘classic’. Which an extreme classic thinks is impossible. Another sign that casual styles are much wider and richer than they used to be. YLF also has a good post on finding your style from your favourite outfits.

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My own vague rules for the coming year

I wrote about my own resolutions last year. (Hmm – I have done quite well on fit and style.)

This year I have a few general-rule type resolutions, though more specific plans don’t work well for me.

Last year I was quite good about buying fabric only after I had prepared and fitted the pattern. This year I want to use mainly stash – means some fabrics will not be ideal as most of my stash is quilting cottons. As I like scrappy quilts I love having a good fabric selection. But it really is time I reduced from 10 boxes of it ! So for warmth I may be making quilted clothes.

I’m also cutting down on buying patterns, though I am a pattern geek and it’s a modest luxury. Confess I’m now rarely willing to pay the huge postal charges for independent patterns from the US. This year I may only buy patterns with special features. I want to add style features to my own patterns, to reduce all the fitting work which I don’t enjoy.

Have noticed that while I’m quite tolerant of the failings of RTW, I expect perfection from my own work. Ah well. . . One of my big gifts is making things more complicated for myself. . . I have difficulty with starting (and finishing!) at an easy ‘good enough’ level. I always have a head bursting with ideas for alternatives and improvements. So, rather often I don’t finish projects that are old ideas. I need to think of them as ‘development studies’.

I also need to build confidence by repeating. Always rushing on to the next thing is not a good way of developing secure skills ! Hmmm – perhaps my big ‘rule’ should be to make two of everything – but that’s exactly the sort of specific rule which tends to bring my sewing to a halt. . .

It’s interesting to try to pick only one pattern for each of my wardrobe needs (shirt, tunic, vest, jacket, pants). Have most difficulty with choosing only one tunic – a good cue that’s my ‘signature’ garment.

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What are your opposite resolutions ?

Resolutions are often like Lent - we resolve to do things we don’t enjoy. “Be more disciplined”. “Improve”. Come on guys – this is a hobby ! If you love being disciplined, or learning, you’re probably doing it already. If you don’t love being disciplined or learning, they’re not things to waste your leisure time on. If the thought of higher quality sewing gives you pleasure, of course learn how to. But if you don’t want to learn more – will millions die ? A little more discipline or practice may be necessary to get things finished – but does it really matter if you don’t ? What is your personal best balance between freedom and control, moving on or continuing as before ?

Try out the opposite of your resolutions. Mine might be to :
- buy hundreds of yards of fabric and hundreds of patterns.
- choose one single commercial pattern and make it throughout the year without any alterations.
- never make something that needs an unfamiliar technique.
- never worry about quality of fit or sewing.
- plan my whole wardrobe in detail before sewing anything and never change my mind.
- or – never check with my existing closet before choosing what to make next.
- always look frumpy [a good guide to what frumpy means to you personally. . .]

Ridiculous resolutions lighten up the whole process ! Sewing and dressing are meant to be a pleasure. What do your opposite resolutions tell you about what you like to sew and wear ? Will your rules or resolutions ensure you enjoy your year of sewing and dressing

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Links available January 2012

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The advantage of wardrobe pattern books is they have space to discuss building a wardrobe of co-ordinates. Plus instructions for altering the patterns to make different styles. So they’re good starting points if you want to try this. Get the basic patterns to fit, and then any variations you make are likely to fit well too.

Some books emphasise wardrobe building, some pattern altering. A few have advice on fit. Some have guidance for sewing beginners. Unless otherwise mentioned, all have a pack of full sized conventional tissue paper patterns. Most go up to 44 or 46 inch/ 117 cm bust, BMV sizes 24 – 26.

There are now many books which include full-size patterns. I started by thinking I knew them all, but now know I don’t ! This is a rapidly expanding area of sewing publishing. I’m focussing on books with patterns for a wide range of garment types. I have collected rather a lot of these so this topic spread and spread and I’ve divided it in sections. My next post is planned on books which emphasise dresses. Then there’s a third post on out-of-print and Japanese books.

There are two starting points used for pattern making (see dartless block post). One is a fitted block. The other is a looser fitting block without darts. This post is about pattern books with casual styles. The first are based on the casual dartless block, the others are more fitted.

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Your personal preferred wardrobe plan

Does the ‘Core 4′ idea meet all your wardrobe needs ? – top, jacket, skirt, pants. Wardrobe patterns may be the best starting point for that type of wardrobe. There’s only one book based on a Core 4, and it’s for a petite plus body type. And it has a woven blouse top, not a knit. There are many wardrobe patterns with knit tops.

Several pattern books don’t include a jacket. So they’re not sufficient for people who need to layer, unless you’re happy with shirt-jacket style.

Some pattern books don’t mention dresses, so aren’t for people who like to wear them. Books with dresses are mainly in my second post.

If you wear multiple layers (top, shirt, vest, jacket), there’s one out-of-print pattern book with all these. If you’d like a wide range of garment types in one book and enjoy a challenge, there are Japanese pattern books in many styles. Those are in my third planned post in this group.

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Patterns for casual classics

Design It Yourself Clothes
A book on simple pattern making using personal measurements, by Cal Patch.

(not all to same scale)

Basic patterns for knit tee, dartless shirt, skirt, pants, dress.

The special feature of this book is you draft your patterns to your own measurements ! Mainly words with few pictures. Minimal sewing instructions. No discussion of wardrobe co-ordination. Basic patterns are classic casuals, many suggestions for adapting the basic patterns to make modern styles. More dresses from the shirt and tee patterns.

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Some other simple books for making your own patterns

Sew What Skirts by Francesca DenHartog

Sew What Fleece by Carol Jessop and Chaila Sekora. Good if you want easy warm jackets, vests, coats, robes to add to a wardrobe book which doesn’t include them.

I like these books. They make a good starting point for beginners. No very poor reviews at Amazon.

A different take is Make your own clothes by Marie Clayton. This includes software for making personal patterns. Sorry, I don’t think much of either the software or the sewing instructions for beginners. Here’s my review at Pattern Review.

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Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way
By Kerstin Martensson.

(not all to same scale)

Simple basic patterns for knit tee, dartless blouse, 2 skirts, pants (elastic waists). Kwik Sew type patterns on thick white paper. Up to 45 inch/ 114 cm bust, 47 inch/ 120 cm hip.

Many simple instructions for changing the patterns to make other styles, from zip front hoodie to nightwear. The dresses shown are all two-piece, but you could extend these patterns to simple shirt and shift one-piece dresses. Good for beginners, with Kwik Sew’s simple clear sewing instructions. No discussion of wardrobe building. Fit advice only about changing length. Universally good reviews.

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Wendy Mullin’s books

Many modern casual styles are more fitted and do have darts. Wendy Mullin’s books are bursting with excellent pattern altering ideas, but the patterns and sewing instructions sometimes need care.

She has her own RTW clothing line and used to design patterns for Simplicity. There are 4 pattern books, which build into a comprehensive wardrobe (though there’s no discussion of that). All books have 3 basic patterns.

The first, Sew U, has patterns for skirt, shirt, pants. (I’m disappointed there’s no pattern for the bag on the cover ) Up to 38 inch/ 98 cm bust, 42 inch/ 107 cm hip, BMV size 18.

Many suggestions for changing the style elements on these patterns. Advice for sewing beginners, though these styles are perhaps a bit much for timid learners. Fit only mentioned in passing. Rightly well known.

Home Stretch Knits

Patterns for :
- set-in sleeve tee.
- raglan hoodie.
- dress with waistline seam.

Pattern alteration and sewing instructions for 6 versions of each style – changes in neckline, length, shape. . .

Good knit sewing instructions for beginners, but no advanced techniques such as stabilising or using a double needle.

Some people like close fitting knits. Some like their knits loose and baggy. Reviewers say these patterns make up large. So check for your preferred level of ease. And some think the result doesn’t look like the picture. So do make a trial version.

Wendy Mullin also has a book on Dresses. I’ve put that in my post on books for dresses.

Built by Wendy Coats & Jackets


Patterns for :
- armhole princess fitted jacket.
- dartless casual jacket described as ‘not-too-snug’ and used for loose styles like a parka.
- raglan sleeve dartless outerwear coat.
A good range of basic shapes for outerwear. Most styles have neckline and front opening interfacing, but no more complex support structures. Many have linings.

Sadly these jacket and coat patterns are tiny, only 1 – 2 inches/ 2 – 5 cm ease. Barely movement room, certainly not large enough for layering. Here’s my comments at Pattern Review.

The pattern altering instructions for jackets and coats are good and inspirational, with multiple variations. But the sewing instructions are not always clear and the patterns are unusable. These are exciting styles – what a disappointment ! You need properly sized patterns and a technique book if you want to try these jacket or coat styles.

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Perfect Plus
by Kathleen Cheetham of Petite Plus patterns.

Patterns for blouse, jacket, skirt, pants. This is the only wardrobe pattern book I know of which covers a ‘Core 4′. Sized for petites 40 to 50 inch/ 117 cm bust, 42 – 52 inch/ 132 cm hip, BMV sizes 18 to 28. Lengthen lines on the patterns, so you can alter them for height.

Much good discussion on using the patterns to build a wardrobe. Only simple pattern changes, such as different sleeve lengths, a small choice of collar shapes, some trim changes. 14 pages on fit, covering all the main issues. Good sewing instructions with many photos and diagrams.

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Final mention for
Sew Everything Workshop by Diana Rupp.
For sewing beginners not wardrobe planning. Over 100 5-star reviews at Amazon, but look at the 3 star reviews to get some heart felt comments. I have seen this but ‘handed it on’ as the projects aren’t my style and I didn’t need the guidance. That was some time ago so I can’t now comment in detail. With patterns for several garment types.

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It’s Stitchers’ Guild ‘Sewing With A Plan‘ time again, so many people are thinking about wardrobe co-ordination.
Would any of these wardrobe pattern books give you a simple starting point for your own co-ordinates ?

Second post planned for the books mainly with dress patterns. Is that more to your taste

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Books and links available January 2012

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(No, not to worry – they don’t keep a record of who looked at what. Apart from anything else, the storage requirements would be horrendous.)

So what have you been looking at ?

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Busiest days

Shows the influence of the big sites. My busiest ever day was in October, when You Look Fab (Angie Cox) mentioned my necklines post. Second busiest was in May, when Inside-Out Style (Imogen Lamport) mentioned this blog.

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Most popular posts

It’s amazing how many people look at my post on
choosing and changing necklines

Other posts that at least five people seek out individually each day are :

List of North American independent pattern companies

Classics for work, winter 2010 : dress, blouse, skirt, pants
(Don’t know why people always look at that instead of the more recent one).

Super quick Wardrobe patterns

Cheongsam

Shawl collar jackets

Pant style and body shape

Pattern making – the formal route
(Personally I have more sympathy with what’s in the post on easier fitting shells !)

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Most popular links

Related to the most popular posts. The most people follow up some of the links from the necklines post.

Other frequent links are to :
Eileen Fisher
Nancy Nix-Rice’s newsletter
Sue Neall’s article on sewing a wardrobe in a weekend.

Plus my pdf on developing your
personal wardrobe plan

The most popular pattern lines are
DIY Couture
Onion

And the most popular other blogs are
Ruthie
Carolyn (Sewing Fanatic, cmarie12)

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Most popular patterns

The pattern most people want to know more about is the same as last year, the attractive ‘soft classic’ wardrobe in Butterick 5472. (Beware those cap sleeves, which are too small for my armholes.)

Perhaps there is very little on the web about making your own cheongsam. Anyway, people have been very interested in those patterns.

Free download dress pattern (side seam zip)

and the dress from New Look 6812 (no zip).

Another favourite is an even quicker wardrobe, Butterick 5045.

There’s also a vest version of the jacket without sleeves. Use jacket/ vest/ dress at many lengths.

Looks as if people like quick wardrobe patterns for soft smart casuals. Wearable for both work and weekends. Ideal for a basic wardrobe. Made me wonder about other wardrobe patterns. Some are like these and could be worn for both relaxed business and suburban smart casual. Others are even wearable for both smart Casual Friday and clambering around in boots in the countryside. A surprisingly large number of them

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Most comments

‘Getting to know my sizes‘ is the post that has had the largest number of comments ever ! All the way from ‘oh thanks, I need to try that myself’ to ‘what is all this unnecessary fuss about’.

Of course fitting methods are aimed at the average, so they work for the largest number of people. But I would like to give some courage and hope to all the people who have tried every easy fit method there is, and still end up looking like a potato raised in stony ground.

It is possible to get good fit. It’s just more difficult for some of us. Each little step in getting to know your body shape and it’s pattern needs is another little step towards looking good ! Hurrah

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And some time yesterday my all-time number of visitors topped 175,000 – your present to me

Best Wishes for a good 2012 full of successful projects and happy sewing experiences.

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Links and patterns available December 2011

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Best Wishes for an ever happier personalised wardrobe and rewarding sewing during the coming year.

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Pullover Tops

Cutting Line 2 x 4.

Great Copy Yukon Pullover

Great Copy Cascade Mountain pullover

Jalie 2212 half-zip fleece pullover

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Jackets

Christine Johnson Travel Trio Two jacket.

Hot Patterns Classix Nouveau Sportive Skirt Suit.

StyleARC Maggie jacket

Jalie 2795 zip-front hoodie

From the Big4 there’s new Butterick 5698.

McCall’s 5538 and McCall’s 5252 are both yoked styles for pullovers and jackets with hoodie options. And McCall’s 4261 is for a classic gym/ sports wardrobe.

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Something a little more unusual

Shapes Four Good Measure top
(One pattern piece, with one shoulder seam and one side seam.)

Shapes Nine Lives vest

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Interesting. I often don’t pick patterns for raglan styles as I don’t wear them myself. This time I wasn’t deliberately avoiding them, as I think of them as classic for the sports style. But I haven’t found many.

If you’re still dubious about this style : YouLookFab has a new post about ‘loungewear‘ including sweat pants and hoodies.

Use high quality fabrics and trims for a casual Sports Luxe look. Or a modern shine/ sheer/ sequin fabric for a party version of the style. What is your favourite way of feeling and looking relaxed

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Patterns and links available December 2011

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Time to catch up while winter is still in the future ? . . .
How many of these items have you added to your wardrobe There are several patterns available for most of these styles.

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Warm Outerwear :

Posher Parka

Yes I love a parka and have a post about parka patterns. The parka picked out by UK Elle was more ‘street’ style than this image. I always wear a parka anyway, so can’t claim it as a high fashion item

Coloured Fur

I’m making a cosy vest of pinky caramel fake fur. Not a bright colour. But it is a type of fake fur you can get in ‘fashion colours’. Anyone want a colour blocked fur jacket in purple, orange, and lime ! It is possible

Waist or high hip length jackets are also in fashion (this one by Michael Kors). Not so good for warmth. And not flattering to my body shape. But marvellous if you have got slim hips ! Several short fur jacket patterns available, such as Simplicity 2150 .

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Indoor Clothes :

Novelty Sweatshirt

I’ve written a post about patterns for these. Part of the Sports Luxe style is the non-sporty trims. This Jason Wu top has wide sleeve stripes in lace rather than athletic fabric. I love wearing loose comfortable tops anyway, so again it’s fashion catching up with me, rather than me following fashion

Pencil Skirt

I would wear a pencil style if I wore a skirt. Bright prints may be fashionable but are too assertive for my taste (and the size of my hips !). And I certainly haven’t got the legs to celebrate with a high thigh slit. Though with my lumpy knees I like the longer length. Try Vogue 8773.

Skinny Ski Pants

Another way of getting a slim leg line, a winter version of ‘jeggings’. Not for me, I haven’t got the legs for skin tight pants. No shortage of slim patterns, especially among McCall’s pants.

I show the whole outfit from Jil Sander. Because Style.com may not mention them, but big patterned ‘Nordic’ and fair isle sweaters are fashionable this season.

Something Sixties

Such as a shapeless shift dress rather than a fitted sheath. This was a ‘new’ shape for the season. Not many patterns available, but I’m planning a post on them.

Notice the odd way of carrying the bag, which at the time of the shows was considered a high fashion point. Don’t know if it has caught on in high fashion circles.

Several of the season’s garments are straight rather than fitted. And suggest a change of proportions, to wearing large tops over slim bottoms. Which hasn’t been so prevalent for a couple of decades. Hopefully this will be a choice rather than a dictate. So people who like to wear straight clothes will not feel guilty and under pressure to change because they’re not wearing tightly fitted ones. Or vice versa.

Anything Patchworked

Wear an interesting combination of prints. I’m a quilter and love making multi-fabric quilts. But this fashion style is not like the patchworkers’ idea of using many small pieces of fabric. Each garment, or each section of a garment such as body and sleeves, is in a different print. An exciting and interesting challenge to combine them.

Notice in this outfit how the all colours and type of line have something in common. (And see the slimming dark side strips. And the glimpses of another colour group – green.) This is by Dries van Noten. Get more multi-fabric inspiration from Koos van den Akker’s Vogue patterns.

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Accessories :

Bright Bag

I’m not a ‘bright’ dresser, though I do like red.

Furry Heels

Not for me. On the runway these were worn with a parka, but I like to wear practical shoes.

Choker

A big necklace. This stunning one is by Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. See McCall’s 6047 and McCall’s 6048 if you’d like to make something similar for the party season, from fabric and buttons. Or Elizabeth Gillett Vogue 8762 for ornamental scarves.

A good way of drawing attention to your face. And adding individuality to a basic dress. Personally my lifestyle doesn’t really have a place for big necklaces. But I do like the current ‘street’ style of big neck warmers and infinity scarves, which visually have the same effect. A neck warmer in fake fur is a quick and easy way of adding that essential touch of fur. See new Butterick 5727 for fur accessories.

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How did you do ? Have you added any of these to your wardrobe

Pick what you love, and let the rest of fashion whizz by as delicious but entirely frivolous even ridiculous entertainment

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All photos from Style.com

Patterns and links available December 2011

Jason Wu, with black lace down the sleeves.
Style.com photo

I thought “oh, dear – there’s an idea that’s open to mis-interpretation, that can encourage a lot of slurpy outfits”. Poor Tim Gunn, valiantly trying to get people out of wearing sweatshirts and flip-flops.

Then UK Elle December 2011 issue published some photos. Which make it clear the idea is not to be well dressed and comfortable while active. The aim is to look very fashionable, and as if what you are wearing could not possibly have been made in a sweat shop using the cheapest materials and quickest techniques. Nothing to do with being comfortable, either physically or socially.

Here are the extremes, wearable to a big city high-concept occasion perhaps.

UK Elle December 2011

(That beaded upper section in the lower right photo is a separate garment.)

Well, ignore the over-styling and don’t look at the shoes.

Vivienne Westwood

Then you can see the rest are actually sporty classics, just made in current shines, sheers, and leather.

UK Elle December 2011

(Lower right those are leather bra and sequin and lace shorts.)

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So, if you do want to be comfortable and active in your sweatshirt, but still look as if a designer was involved at some stage, here are some possible patterns.

Of course, there are huge numbers of fitted designer T-shirt patterns. These are some for looser tees and sweats. Suggestions for fleeces and hoodies later. (Lots of patterns for yoga/ sweat pants too, but I’m ignoring them as I’ve always hated that style for some reason.)

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Hot Patterns Weekender Chilled-Out Sweat Suit.

Hot Patterns Plain and Simple Relaxed T Shirts.

Hot Patterns Plain and Simple Rib Trim Sweaters.

Hot Patterns Metropolitan Sweaters.

Christine Johnson Travel Trio Two top.

Christine Johnson Three Tees.

Loes Hinse Boat Neck top.

Loes Hinse Cowl top.

Sewing Workshop Hudson top.

StyleARC Bali Bindi Tunic.

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Want something a little more girly ? have a look at more of the Hot Patterns tops.

Even Chanel is showing a ‘polo’ top this season.

Chanel ad

For extreme Sports Luxe you can get skis with the Chanel logo for $4000. If you don’t want to go that far, copy the polo top by widening the placket and collar on Jalie 2562.

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Black, white, grey, tan – Hmmm

Bright colour blocking, and multi-print combinations are also high trend !
The colours available here in sweatshirt fleece are fairly conventional, but there are more interesting colours and fun prints in fleece, and I’m planning a post on patterns for fleeces and hoodies.

Use high quality fabrics and enjoy feeling and looking both relaxed and active.

Or, if this style makes you less than enthusiastic, Imogen Lamport suggests you wear a dress every day in December

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Patterns and links available December 2011

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Some pattern making books do include front-back differences. I’m using :
Knowles. Pattern making for fashion designers : juniors, misses, and women.
Allemong. European cut.
Liechty, Rasband, Pottberg-Steineckert. Fitting and pattern alteration (hurrah, my birthday present this year).

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Taking my measurements from waist to thigh

Wearing leggings and tank, I rigged myself up with :
- horizontal velcro tapes at waist, high hip, hip.
- vertical tapes at CF, side seam, and CB.

Needed to adjust the position of the side tapes so they :
- looked from the front as if they were at the edge of my body.
- looked from the side as if they roughy divided the area of the body in half.

No photos – I haven’t got a leotard, so it was all rather untidy !

I don’t attempt to measure to an accuracy of 1/16 inch or 1 mm, as BML tells you to. Impossible accuracy with a soft flexible body. It’s easy to change the measure much more by a slight change in tension of the tape measure or posture of the person being measured.

I know 1/8 inch can make a difference to the quality of fit. But that’s in fabric being tried on. I aim for measures to the nearest 1/4 inch/ 0.5 cm. Details to be adjusted on the ‘muslin’.

(P.S. There’s a video on doing these measurements here, second video)

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The results

My total waist measure is 33-1/2 in., total hip 43-1/2 in.
Both Big4 pattern size 18.
Apparently no problem there then.

But look at the details and a very different picture emerges :
. . . . . . . . . front . . . . back . . . . total (inches)
waist . . . . 19 . . . . . . . 14-1/2 . . 33-1/2
high hip. . 20-1/2 . . . 21 . . . . . . 41-1/2
hip . . . . . . 20-1/2 . . . 23 . . . . . .43-1/2

(Sitting hip 46 in., important to know for ease allowance.)

Interesting, I still have a waist at the back, but there’s all that stomach sticking out in front. Yes, it does go in and out daily.
And my high hips are important, so :
- darts below waist need to be short, and mainly at the back.
- below high hip there’s little change.
My high hips are about 3-4 inches below my waist. But as I have a tilted waist (higher at back due to high hip pads), a level high hip is not the same distance below my natural waist all the way round.

Double those measures – so these are just imaginary numbers, assuming my back and front are the same :
. . . . . . . . front . . . back (inches)
waist . . . . . 38 . . . 29
high hip . . . 41 . . . 42
hip. . . . . . . . 41 . . . 46

Comparing those numbers with the BMV size table, that means my pattern size is/ are. . . (I’ve added bust here, I knew this before.)

. . . . . front . . . . back
bust . . . . 14 . . . . 16
waist . . . 24 . . . . 14
hip . . . . . 16 . . . . 22

Eeek ! no wonder I’ve never been able to wear a sheath dress or a leotard

I’ve still got an indented waist in silhouette from the front, but have difficulty fitting it. Easiest with a waist seam, which isn’t usual in a blouse. I’m sure it is possible to get princess seams to fit me well at the back, but I haven’t got round to it.

Here’s a possible hip area pattern to show the different front (left) and back shapes.

These were roughed out using software. I wouldn’t use these patterns. I would move the darts to where my main curves are. And change the dart widths so the side seams are the same length. And I have a tilted natural waist, higher back than front. But the limitations of pattern making software are a topic for another post.

These measures helped me understand much, but they don’t give the complete picture. My front waist and hip measures may be similar, but I’m not the same shape all the way down – forward spreading waist becomes hips spreading sideways. Visually, my widest hip is lower in my silhouette from the front than it is in my silhouette from the side. And unlike my stomach, that large back is just generally large, not protruding.

Don’t even try to imagine what I look like in a RTW fitted jacket !
Though I do promise I have never bought one

Some people need front bigger than back below the waist. Sandra Betzina ‘No Time to Sew’ p.15 says she cuts a size 14 pants front and size 10 back.

Above the waist, I have small bust and wide back. Many people have larger upper front than back. FBAs need to be adjusted for personal shape and ease preference. See my post on the FBA for some comments.

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Other special features of my shape

Here are some other features of my body, as described by Liechty et al.

Short lower rib cage/ high waist.
short between armhole and waist

High neck base.
similar to sloping shoulders but I think this is more ‘me’.

Forward head.
raise back neckline, lower front neckline

Shallow chest.

Low bust position.

Rounded upper back.
Shoulder darts essential

Cylindrical upper torso.
Scoop out armholes sideways. I haven’t got large biceps but do need a large armhole. I’ve learned to check cut-on sleeves to make sure they’re not tight.

Larger elbows.
Don’t know if my bones are large, but I do like to be comfortable when I bend my arms.

Longer lower torso.

Cylindrical lower torso.
long crotch extensions on pants

Here’s some things which affect style rather than fit :
- I’ve recently realised my forward head has made my neck go visually from long to short.
- lumpy knees and thick ankles.
I have got good features too

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Implications

No I don’t look like a freak.
But RTW doesn’t look good !

And, with so many non-average features, no wonder I find it easier to get good fit by starting from my personal pattern block and adding style elements to it. Rather than starting from a commercial pattern and making all these changes.

I don’t think all this self awareness gets you out of making a trial garment. Even when you’ve gone through the pattern-muslin-pattern-muslin cycle several times and have a good fit, it’s best to check that length, ease, and style elements such as collar shape, pocket placement, etc. are flattering.

Also best fitting method depends on personal preference. I don’t at all enjoy tissue fitting. I prefer working direct with a muslin, ‘reading the wrinkles’. Rather than trying to get all the adjustments done accurately to the pattern before ever trying something on.

But many people love ‘Fit for Real People’, and tissue fitting, and not having to make a muslin. So try different methods to find what you prefer. Every little step is an improvement

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P.S. There have been so many comments about this, perhaps I’d better add some more :

I’d like to to encourage people who have unusual fitting challenges. Of course it’s marvellous if you find commercial patterns which are close to your body shape, or a fitting aid which works for you. But there are people who have too many features away from average for that to be possible. And many of those special features aren’t dealt with in the pattern making books which claim to tell you how to draft a personalised pattern.

I’m not so analytic about all this when I do the actual fitting. I fit by ‘reading the wrinkles’ on a muslin. I make no attempt to resolve all my fitting issues one by one on the pattern before cutting out.

Though there are many fitting issues which need a rough change to the pattern before cutting the fabric, or there won’t be enough fabric available to make the detailed adjustments. Such as a long body, or square shoulders, or a large bust cup, or protruding front and rear when fitting pants. Or different sizes front and back, above and below !

And I am the sort of person who likes to understand what I’m doing. For example, I need a personalised armhole to be comfortable. Liechty et al is the only book I know which explains what it is about my body which makes this necessary, and what to do about it.

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Patterns and links available November 2011

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What I’m talking about here is styles so different in shape that they need different main pattern pieces. These basic pattern pieces are called ‘blocks’.

I’m not talking about wardrobe patterns – obviously those include top/ jacket/ pants blocks, etc.

What features would you like in your collection of basic patterns ?
- armhole : fitted, drop shoulder, raglan, cut on sleeve.
- body shaping : darted, shoulder princess, armhole princess, side panel, wrap, casual-dartless either straight or flared.
- knits, wovens.
- amount of ease : close fitted, fitted, semi-fitted, loose fitting, very loose fitting.

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Jackets and coats

Simplicity 1943 boleros are all dartless, but have different sleeves and body shapes. One (right) has cut on sleeves. The others have set in sleeves with different bodies : one with flared body and flared sleeves, one with straight body and gathered sleeve cap. Simply lengthen these to get many more styles.

Simplicity 2154 has two dartless block jackets with different sleeves. One is set in, the other has a cut-on upper sleeve with side panel below.

Simplicity 2208 is for fleece jackets. A dartless flared jacket with slightly dropped shoulder sleeve and either a drape front or big collar. And a raglan princess hoodie.

Simplicity 2150 is for jackets and coats. Two jackets based on the same princess block with different centre front panels. And two dartless styles – jacket size with set in sleeve, or coat size with cut on sleeve.

Simplicity 2285 has two raglan sleeve styles, a jacket and cape. Also a princess jacket with set in sleeves, and a dartless vest.

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Tops

There are many top patterns with ingenious variations in collars, cuffs, lengths, trims etc. But few include different blocks.

Butterick 3030 is for easy dartless tops with raglan, cut-on, and dropped shoulder sleeves.

Butterick 5526 is for classic shirts, with dartless and fitted princess bodies.

Simplicity 1945 is a wardrobe for knits by Khaliah Ali. A raglan sleeve top with cowl neck, and a set in sleeve top with side drape front. Plus a simple jacket with cut on sleeve and cascade front. (Pattern also has simple soft skirt and pants.)

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Skirts

There are several skirt patterns which include both straight and a-line skirts. And 4, 6 and 8 gore skirts. Those may be the first things you learn if you take a pattern making course.

McCall’s 6402 is more interesting, with shaped seam, pleated, and drape front styles. Girly at this length. Make it longer if you prefer !

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Pants

There are several pant patterns with both loose and close fitting styles, which have a different cut. A couple of examples :

Butterick 5502 has both leggings and elastic waist pants.

McCall’s 6403 has both straight and fuller leg styles.

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Sorry I haven’t found any dresses ! Doesn’t mean there aren’t any, but they do have much bigger pattern pieces so perhaps are less likely.

Do any of these block collections meet all your styling needs

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Patterns and links available December 2011

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