Sewingplums

I’ve been reviewing the new jacket patterns, with blazers here, and soft and shapely styles here.

But perhaps your taste in jackets is neither for crisp blazers or shapely softer styles.
There are several other options mentioned by YouLookFab in her review of jacket trends for the season (2013).
I may write on the more edgy looks – bomber, biker, military, though there aren’t many new patterns.

YouLookFab didn’t mention the soft and shapely styles in her review, but you obviously like them, as my post on them got more visitors in its first weekend than I’ve had for some time 😀

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Avant garde

YouLookFab also picks out ‘avant garde’ as a key style for the season.

She says :

Avant-garde: A non-classic style that is arty, sometimes asymmetrical, architectural and boxy, usually quite dramatic, and full of interesting design elements that make it unique. Avant-garde styles have a long expiry date because they are pretty trend-immune, but don’t look classic either.

Well, that doesn’t place many limits on what we can wear 😀

I’ve picked two key themes out of that quote :
– architectural shapes
– interesting and unique design elements.
I have so many links and comments, I’ve divided this into 2 posts, this one on sources of ‘interesting’ shapes. Second post to come on links about adding ‘textile art’ details.

Not a listing of new patterns, just some of the more obvious links.

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Architectural shapes

Inspiration

Ivey Abitz
Krista Larson
Terry Macey, Angelika Eisenbach

That is a just a small selection of studio designers who produce unusual clothes.

Eileen Fisher
Gudrun Sjoden
are more mainstream with multiple retail stores.

Many more links to styles of this type in the Lagenlook thread at Stitchers Guild.

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Patterns (garments not prints)

Louise Cutting at Cutting Line Designs
Linda Lee of The Sewing Workshop
Shapes by Louise Cutting and Linda Lee
Diane Ericson (ReVisions)
Tina Givens has many interesting patterns. But do make a trial garment – many of the patterns and instructions need considerable adapting to get them to work.

Koos van den Akker at Vogue
Lynn Mizono at Vogue
Marcy Tilton at Vogue
Katherine Tilton at Vogue
Katherine Tilton at Butterick

There are also usually a few individual designer jackets at Vogue which are ‘architectural’ or strongly unusual, both hard-edged and softer styles. These are some of the current ones (2013, these links don’t work in 2016, do a search if you’re interested) :

Vogue 1264 by Anne Klein



Vogue 1211 by Guy Laroche

Vogue 1347 by Chado Ralph Rucci.

Vogue 1263 by Donna Karan


Vogue 1346 by Donna Karan


Vogue 1129 by Donna Karan



Some non-English language sources of more unusual shapes :
Lagenlook
Schnittquelle

For extreme shapes try the books by Tomoko Nakamichi:
Pattern Magic
Pattern Magic 2
Pattern Magic Stretch fabrics

or the series by Hisako Sato :
Drape Drape
Drape Drape 2
Drape Drape 3

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What a lot of riches to explore ! Even if you don’t want to wear this style of garment yourself – if you’re fascinated by the shapes of clothes and how patterns work to achieve them, you’ll take pleasure in all this !

Or perhaps you’re more interested in jackets with unique details – jackets that are ‘textile art’, jackets that use fabric combining or are rich with embellishment. I have a second post planned with links on those topics.

Enjoy 😀

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Originally published September 2013, links revised August 2016

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This entry was posted on September 28, 2013 at 11:07 am and is filed under current fashion, personal style. You can subscribe via RSS 2.0 feed to this post's comments. You can comment below, or link to this permanent URL from your own site.