1. In its simplest form, the casual dartless block has front and back armholes the same, see my post on the casual dartless block. Obviously there are also more complex versions.

2. Starting from a fitting shell : as I say in the intro to this post, and have said many times before, there is no way of making a fitting shell that I have found, which gives me a good fitting basic without any further work. I have tried pattern making software, also several pattern making book block drafting instructions, and Sure Fit Designs. In each case, after following instructions to make a basic block, I had to do a lot of fitting work to get get it to fit well. So I might as well start from a commercial pattern, it involves no more work. In the case of pattern making software, it’s actually less work for me to start from a commercial pattern than to try to get software to fit. And as I have explained to you several times before, I do not have access to a good dressmaker to make a fitting shell for me.

Most sewing tasks are complex and there are many different ways of doing them. Each sewer finds the methods that are best for them. There is no one way that is best for everyone.

Well done for dealing with a complex body ! And Good Luck with your blouse

And thanks for the good wishes – I’ve been very fortunate with my health this year, and am continuing to improve.

But to get back to your original point, I’m a bit puzzled by your approach. You say that because of nonstandard body it’s easier to start with a commercial pattern and then put your fitting changes in. On the opposite, because of my nonstandard body I start with a fitting shell, and then put on it the design points of a commercial pattern. I get fine results that way, things that look like the designer’s intention but that still very much fit me, while I’ve never had much success with the opposite.

Thereafter Leichty et al sloped shoulders alteration D guided me on accommodating my forward sloping shoulders: I had to take the diagonal tuck in the front pattern piece and then make a corresponding slash in the back, and I left substantial seam allowances (on the outside of the muslin to make adjustments easier) to further adjust the shoulder seams. (Walking around for 16 years with an undiagnosed slipped disc caused my spine to re-align itself thereby releasing the pressure on the trapped nerve – worked well until I hit my forties!)

My shoulders are also narrow, are different widths and heights so I have different lefts and rights, front and back. In the course of this week I am going to be putting all this together in a short-sleeved blouse in a non-stretch cotton fabric – the moment of truth!

For my casual pullover top I am going to try the “Y” bust dart alteration from Palmer/Pletsch “Fit for Real People”, that I read about on Sham’s blog (thanks, Shams!). I might still need little darts for a more flattering fit.

I do enjoy your blog, and am glad you seem to be back in full force since your spell in hospital – well done!

Crediting the original will leave your conscience clear and your readers’ opinions of your work unsullied by suspicions of uncredited copying. It is admirable to see a person choose an attractive pattern and have the vision and skill to make it perfect for her own body, as you do.