Possible winter wardrobe plan – October 09
What would be my ideal wardrobe plan, based on the Vogue October 09 pattern issues ? Some of these patterns are beyond my sewing skills, so I also dream a gifted dressmaker is excited to satisfy my every whim
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Note : Butterick-McCall’s-Vogue has changed their websites. My BMV links now only get you to a page where you can search for a pattern number.
I apologise that I haven’t changed to the new individual URLs, but it would be a lot of work.
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I live in a moderate climate but feel the cold. I need lots of layers. And it’s my lower back and upper chest which feel cold, so I need to be well wrapped up !
I’m a sort of smart casual/ relaxed chic with a touch of embellishment person. I’m retired so don’t need to look professional. And I’m trying a vow never to buy or make straight-up-and-down clothes. Flared or waisted shapes are so much more flattering for my waisted pear shape.
So start with the shape of the Koos Vogue 1146 coat, made jacket length :
I love this type of smock style. Both yoke and cut in shoulders are good on me. Lots of potential for variety here, such as making a smaller size as a shirt-jacket. Related to my love of quilts, I’m fascinated by multi-fabric garments. So I’m often attracted to Koos’ designs. But I don’t always share his ideas on embellishment and would choose my own, if any.
Add the Mizono Vogue 1145 jacket and pants :
For a close fitting jacket to show my waist under all that cosy wrap up snuggle or swagger : the jacket from Divine Details Vogue 8614. With my longish neck, I do look better with a raised neckline when there isn’t a collar.
An easier alternative would be the custom fit Very Easy Vogue 8626 coat made as a jacket.
I would check the pattern measurements, as changing successfully from coat to jacket may mean going down a size. According to the Ease table in the Vogue paper catalogue, the bust level ease allowed for fitted garments is :
jackets : about 4 inches
coats : about 6-1/4 inches.
So going down the 2 inches of a size change might work well.
Vogue claim this pattern is custom fit for different cup sizes, but even a simple multi-seam style needs a lot of work on fitting a test garment. Vogue Very Easy patterns do tend to be at an intermediate level of difficulty compared to everyone else’s standards !
I didn’t choose these styles because “Every woman should own a tailored jacket”, but because I’m looking for a way to both define my waist and be warm. Anything structured or tailored is not right for me.
Usually I wear layers of tunics (and sweater knits), but there aren’t any tunics that catch my eye in this batch of Vogue patterns. The patterns do include some jackets which I love, so that’s the basis of the layering in this ‘dream’ plan.
If I had to pick just one starting point for tunics (and my pear shape) it would be McCall’s 5664, as this has potential for many different versions – changes in necklines and front openings.
This is not designed to be a layering top, so I would probably make it a size or two larger if using it as a top over several warm layers.
For the inmost layer, there’s Marcy Tilton’s Vogue 8618 knit tops, one of the new patterns.
Though for an inner layer I would probably wear one of the many white shirts I already have.
If I was going to add to my long row of shirts, my favourite shirt pattern is oop Alice + Olivoa Vogue 2972. I would add flare to suit my hips.
I wear ‘bottoms’ as neutral background, so use simple styles. I’m currently seeking slim legged pants, slim as I can wear with my not slim hips. The pants in the Mizono 1145 pattern might be a good starting point. (The slim pants with the Alice + Olivia shirt pattern aren’t right for me, as a low-waisted wide yoked style is not good on my curvy high hips.) Considering the Mizono pants – I also don’t look good in an elastic waist, and would need to move on to something more fitted at waist level.
A ‘proper’ wardrobe plan is supposed to be pinned down to specific numbers, so how about :
bottoms : 3 pairs pants
first layer tops : 2 shirts, 1 knit top
second layer tops : 2 tunics, 2 vests, 1 fitted jacket – vests can be worn over tunics.
third layer tops : 2 very loose fitting jackets.
That makes 13 garments in all. So long as they’re made in compatible colours and textures of fabric, there are many possible combinations.
This isn’t a wardrobe plan that would be right for people who prefer more classic, prettier, or trendier looks than I do. My pattern choices wouldn’t enrich the lives of people who like to look sexy, dramatic, sporty, creative, glamorous. . . Nor do they suit people who like knits or dresses, or have a different body shape or lifestyle. But it fits well with my current understanding of what works for me.
Every new set of patterns inspires me to make a new wardrobe plan. Dreaming up a plan is a fun thing to do
Patterns available October 09.Explore posts in the same categories: my choices, specific capsules, wardrobe planning